Refurbishing & upgrading 1968~79 VW Type 2 headlamp syst

[NASkeet]

REFURBISHING & UPGRADING, HEADLAMPS & HEADLAMP CIRCUITS

Although the 1968~79 VW 1600 & 17/18/2000 Type 2s, were never reknown as high-speed vehicles, they were always easily capable of exceeding the maximum safe night-time speed on unlit roads, associated with the effective illumination range, of the factory-fitted headlamps; both the Hella and Bosch replaceable-bulb units, used in Great Britain & Europe and the DOT standard, sealed-beam units, used in North America, which are allegedly even worse!

For RHD (i.e. right-hand drive) vehicles, which are driven on the left-hand side of the road (i.e. the United Kingdom, Republic of Ireland, Japan and most of the British Commonwealth; apart from a few territories, such as Canada and Mozambique - a former Portugese colony, in south east Africa), one requires RHD headlamps, which when supplied, factory-fitted to the vehicle, from Bosch or Hella, typically bore a label stating, "für links verkehr". On dipped beam, these headlamps are directed in an asymmetric beam pattern, towards the left-hand kerb.

Those with LHD (i.e. left-hand drive) vehicles, which are usually driven on the right-hand side of the road, normally require LHD headlamps, which when supplied, factory-fitted to the vehicle, from Bosch or Hella, typically bore a label stating, "für rechts verkehr". On dipped beam, these headlamps are directed in an asymmetric beam pattern, towards the right-hand kerb, unless one has North American, DOT-standard lamps, which have a different beam pattern.

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/Beams.htm

As these vehicles have aged, over the past few decades (1968~79 VW Type 2s, are circa 29~41 years old!), headlamp performance has probably deteriorated, as a consequence of the headlamp-unit reflectors progressively losing their high-lustre, mirror finish (i.e. reflectivity) and the decreasing available voltage, owing to increasing electrical resistance of the wiring loom. An additional factor, is the decreasing transparency, of a conventional bulb's glass envelope or sealed-beam unit's outer lens, owing to the silvering effect, of the tungsten filament's evaporation and deposition process; which is particularly noticeable on many long-service bulbs.

New, high-lustre reflectors, typically reflect more than 90% of the incident light, whilst dull, oxidised surfaces, might reflect as little as 10%; reducing a headlamp's light output, to almost a tenth of what a new reflector would give. If a reflector surface has lost its lustre, refurbishment might be possible, by recoating the surface, but it is usually only practical or economical, to replace the complete lamp unit, sealed-beam unit or separate reflector.

Unless electrical cables have corroded internally (not usually a problem, except in a few isolated, extreme cases!), the significant increase in the wiring loom's resistance, is attributable solely to oxidation of the connections; although oxidised and/or burnt switch and relay contacts, might also make some contribution..

Current for the headlamps, flows around a complete circuit, from the positive to negative connections of the generator (i.e. dynamo or alternator), via the main-supply & secondary cables, ignition switch, main light switch, fuse box, headlamp dip & flasher relay (i.e. dimmer relay, in USA parlance), headlamp units, steel bodywork, engine crankcase & transaxle case and the transaxle-to-bodywork, braided earth strap (i.e. ground cable, in USA parlance); involving a large number of separate connections.

Reductions in the nett voltage available to the headlamps, for whatever reason (i.e. generator output and/or resistive losses in the wiring loom), cause a much greater reduction in light output, than one might expect! This occurs because power consumed is proportional to voltage squared (i.e. P = V²/R) and a lower proportion of the consumed power, is emitted as visible light, owing to reduced bulb-filament temperature (see university physics text books, for a full explanation of Wien's Displacement Law and Planck's Law, re "black-body" radiation).

Assuming a typical generator supply voltage of 13•5V when under load, the following table summarises the effect of reductions (or increases, associated with greater generator output!) in the available nett voltage to the headlamps:

Applied Voltage (V) 11•48 12•15 12•83 13•5 14•18 14•85 16•2
Applied Voltage (%) 85 90 95 100 105 110 120
Relative Light Output (%) 53 67 83 100 120 145 200

It seems incredible, but reducing the headlamps' available nett voltage from 13•5V to 11•5V (a reduction of just 2•0V or 15%), virtually halves the headlamps' light output. This is why it is important to minimise voltage losses in the electrical circuit and to maximise the generator supply voltage as far as practical, but not exceeding the 12-volt, lead-acid battery's maximum charging voltage of 14•4V, as stated by manufacturers.

Apart from the few screw-thread & ring-terminal connections of the generator and various earth straps & cables, which might need periodic cleaning with a mild abrasive (e.g. fine wire wool or "wet & dry" silicon carbide paper) and water-proofing (e.g. petroleum jelly, copper grease or battery-terminal grease) the remaining connections comprise crimped male & female blade connectors. Not only is there oxidation of the contact surfaces between the connectors, which can be similarly cleaned (sometimes also needing fine-toothed, needle-files), but also where the cable's wire filaments are crimped to the connector.

If the crimped portion is only slightly discoloured, electrical resistance can be reduced by lightly soldering, so that solder only penetrates into the crimped, unsleeved portion, of the cable's wire filaments. The solder will not penetrate, if the joint is highly oxidised and/or greasy; in which case the joint must be uncrimped, degreased and/or acid-cleaned, rinsed, dried and reassembled, after which it can be soldered, as previously described.

Additional strain relief of soldered joints is also desirable, because being brittle, they are more prone to breakage; including the long-term effects of vibration. To minimise renewed oxidation of the connections, it would be advisable to inhibit the ingress of moisture, by use of one or more of, terminal grease, silicone sealant, self-adhesive PVC tape, hot-melt adhesive with shrink sleeving (as used on modern cars) or other methods.

These remedial measures, will restore the standard headlamp system, to the modest perfomance that existed, when the vehicle was new, or at best, provide a marginal improvement on that. To make any significant improvement over the original, as-new system, one really needs to upgrade the headlamp system specifications.

If one's existing headlamp units, are of the type with 45/40W R2 glass-envelope bulbs, then provided the reflectors still have a good mirror finish, one can simply substitute at very modest cost, a pair of P45t flanged, 60/55W H4 quartz-halogen bulbs, which give a vast improvement in headlamp performance, without making any modifications. This is what I did in summer 1976, about 32 years ago, with my family's then recently acquired, second-hand, British specification, 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan. H4 bulbs have an integral, black filament-shield, so if practical, it might be worth removing the redundant bulb shield, from the headlamp reflector, which would otherwise cut off a small portion of the light output.

Picture of P45t & P43t flanged H4 bulbs

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=338649

However, if one has sealed-beam headlamp units, as were the norm in North America, or post-1973 VW Type 2 headlamp units with dulled reflectors, then it will be necessary to replace these with either North American, DOT specification tungsten-halogen sealed-beam units (said to be a far from ideal option and probably illegal outside North America!) or prefererably, dedicated H4 headlamp units (lack redundant bulb shields), with P43t flanged, 60/55W H4 quartz-halogen bulbs, as manufactured by Bosch, Hella, Lucas, Marelli, Stanley, Valeo (i.e. Cibié or Marèchal), Wipac and other companies. Bosch and Hella lamps are usually direct replacements, but with products from other manufacturers, one might need additional mounting hardware.

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/wipac-quadoptic.html

An unusual three-section headlamp unit (Item No. KL-013), which combines an H4 headlamp, H3 long-range lamp and direction indicator into a single unit, is available from Brazilshopping.com. At present, it's of unknown manufacture and thought to be only for countries, in which one drives on the right. Costing a modest US$39•99 (i.e. about £20) per pair, excluding bulbs, the quality and E-mark or DOT-standard compliance, is open to question, but components manufactured in Latin America, are generally of low cost and note that a pair of British, Wipac Quadoptic headlamp units, are typically only about twice this price.

Two models of three-section headlamp units, having a similar appearance, are available from the Mid America Motorworks, in Effingham, Ilinois, USA, priced at US$99•99 (i.e. about £50) per pair, including bulbs. They (Part Nos. 303-101 or 303-091) combine an H4 headlamp, a 4W parking light (i.e. side-light) and either a clear H3 long-range lamp or an amber H3 fog lamp, into a single unit. The commonly used power rating for H3 quartz halogen bulbs, is 55W, but bulbs of 100W power rating, are also readily available.

http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-5-169-3305.html

These days, there are also P45t & P43t flanged, Xenon enhanced, 60/55W H4 quartz-halogen bulbs, which are claimed to be brighter still. It is possible to further upgrade the headlamps, by using higher power H4 bulbs, such as 70/65W, 85/80W, 100/55W, 100/80W, 100/90W, 130/90W, 130/100W & 160/100W, but it will be necessary to employ a revised electrical circuit, with heavy-duty cable and two or more accessory relays, which will avoid the possibility of the factory-stock cables overheating and maximise the voltage available to the headlamps by providing a more direct current path.

In 1988/89, I performed this further upgrade to my family's vehicle, using P45t flanged, 100/80W H4 bulbs (the highest power, then available for our existing lamp units) and 40A accessory relays; retro-fitting a dipped-beam warning light (supplementary to the main-beam warning light), which is quite useful under conditions where daytime dipped-headlamp use is either desirable or mandatory, as is the case in Canada and Scandinavia, plus an increasing number of other European countries. I have also since incorporated a switch and diode, between the headlamp dip & flasher-relay output terminals, so that if I desire, I can keep the dipped-beam illuminated, whilst main beam is selected, which is perfectly legal in the United Kingdom and is actually employed on some car marques.


Electrical circuit wiring diagrams for both the 1968~79 VW Type 2, factory-stock circuit and the revised circuit, incorporating accessory relays

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/naskeet/?action=view&current=Headlamp-Circuit-1.jpg

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/naskeet/?action=view&current=Headlamp-Circuit-2.jpg


By reducing their associated current load, to almost nil, it also has the secondary benefit, of extending the lifespan of the ignition switch, main light switch and headlamp dip & flasher relay, for which it is becoming increasingly difficult, to find good-quality replacements, when and if these fail. In contrast, good-quality, 30A and 40A accessory relays, are readily available at modest cost. Hence, it might also be beneficial to implement this upgrade, with the relatively low-power headlamps, to both minimise voltage losses and extend component lifespans.

Normally, accessory relays can be plugged into the vacant positions of the 1971~79 VW Type 2, combined fuse & relay box, but if this is not an option, there are several other ways of mounting & connecting them, including plug-in, accessory relay boxes, or even moulded plastic, six-position, relay connector blocks, salvaged from Austin Montego or Metro cars, of which I have two mounted inconspicuously, beneath my 1973 VW Type 2, steering-column support bracket. I still have a few spare, for sale or barter.


Picture of the direction-indicator relay, headlamp dip & flasher relay and three accessory relays, mounted in the 1971~79 VW Type 2, combined fuse & relay box

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=327515


Pictures of six-position, relay connector blocks, alone and mounted beneath my 1973 VW Type 2, steering-column support bracket

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=327973

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=327969


This is the Vauxhall Cavalier Mk. 2 fuse cum relay box, which I adapted for use on my British specification, 1973 VW Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=328147

There are as standard, eighteen positions for plastic blade-fuses and four of either turn-signal relay, accessory relays or buzzers. In addition, there are five bays beneath, into which one can slide clip-in modules of two types. One module type accommodates two plastic blade-fuses, whilst the other module type accommodates single relays, of various 1/4 & 1/8 inch blade-terminal configurations, as shown separately in the top two rows of images below.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=327972


I adapted one of the two-fuse holder modules, to accommodate my VW headlamp dip & flasher relay, by cutting and heat welding into the module, the appropriate section of the VW Type 2 fuse & relay box, relay-connector strip.

Although it is technically possible, to upgrade any vehicle with high-power headlamps, the legality of doing so, varies according to country, plus the date on which the vehicle was manufactured or first registered. For example, in the United Kingdom, vehicles first used before 1st April 1986 (i.e. all 1968~79 VW Type 2s), are subject to a minimum power of 30W per lamp, on both main & dipped beams and the universal requirement that the headlamps should not cause undue dazzle to other road users.

The Filament Lamps for Vehicles (Safety) Regulations 1982, Statutory Instrument No. 444.

The Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1984, Statutory Instrument No. 812.

In contrast, vehicles first used on or after 1st April 1986 (i.e. about half the 1980~92 VW Type 25s - aka T3 or Vanagon), are subject to no explicit minimum or maximum power, but both the headlamp units and the bulbs fitted to them, must bear an appropriate E-mark, which might implicitly restrict the power ratings that may legally be employed, dependent upon the bulbs available. Of course, properly aligned headlamps cause minimal dazzle, so it's unlikely that any law officers or MOT inspectors, would seek to inspect the markings on one's headlamp bulbs!

Although the British & European, E-mark headlamps, with asymmetric beam pattern, are considered superior to North American, DOT-standard lamps, readers in North America would be wise to seek advice, from automotive lighting specialists, such as Daniel J. Stern, who have local knowledge about which lamp units may legally be used. There seem to be some light units which satisfy both European and North American regulations.

http://www.ibiblio.org/rdu/autoligt.txt

http://www.danielsternlighting.com

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

British & European and probably most other non-North American drivers, take for granted, the facility to flash the headlamp main beams on and off, without turning the headlamps on, at the dashboard-mounted, main light switch; the steering-column mounted, dip-switch (i.e. dimmer-switch, in USA parlance), acting like a non-latching, momentary switch, so that the main beam is illuminated, only whilst the switch-lever is depressed.

Strictly speaking, flashing the headlamps, has the same meaning as sounding the horn (i.e. warning other drivers of one's presence), which is useful on busy, noisy, high-speed roads, where a horn might not be heard or the origin of the horn's sound difficult to determine. Informally, flashing the main beam in the United Kingdom, is used to acknowledge a courtesy, signal to other drivers that one is allowing them to emerge from a road junction or driveway, or simply as a friendly greeting between fellow air-cooled VW owners.

Apart from the part numbers, the British & European headlamp dip & flasher relay (VW part No. 411 941 583B) is virtually identical in appearance to that of the North American headlamp dimmer relay (VW part No. 411 941 583C), for the 1971~79 VW Type 2s, except that instead of a brass locating lug, there is an additional 6•3 mm (i.e. ¼-inch) blade terminal, labelled 30, which is connected via a red 2•5 mm² cable, to a constant battery supply, at terminal-30 of the fuse box. Similar differences exist between headlamp relays, for the 1968~70 VW Type 2s.


Pictures of the British & European headlamp dip & flasher relay and the North American headlamp dimmer relay, for the 1971~79 VW Type 2, showing the similarities and differences

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=327513


It is solely this additional relay-terminal & cable connection, rather than a modified dip-switch, which provides the headlamp flashing facility. Hence, North American vehicles, can also have the flashing facility, simply by substituting the appropriate relay and making the additional cable connection, as a few of my e-mail pen pals in the USA, have already done.

Having high-power headlamps, it is important that they are extinguished, when the ignition is switched off. Owing to the starter-motor-interrupted, ignition-controlled supply (i.e. terminal X) to the main light switch, 1971~79 VW Type 2s do this automatically, but the 1968~70 model-years, do not have this facility, so one needs to ensure that their headlamps are switched off manually!

I envisage that it would be possible, to mimic the later models, by slightly revising the main electrical supply circuit, substituting a later-model, main light switch, in combination with two relays, to create a starter-motor-interrupted, ignition-controlled supply. This supply can also be used for other high-current loads (e.g. windscreen wipers, heated rear window & heated front windscreen), which is automatically interrupted when the starter motor is operated, maximising available battery voltage & current, to restart the engine if one inadvertantly stalls.
_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

http://www.vwt2oc.net

[Lionhart94010]

All I can say Is WOW Great information!

NASkeet, you should put your information(articles) up on a web sight so it is easer for people to benefit from your great work :0)

Thanks for the Great Post!!!

Andre
_________________
Current VWs 71 T2 Westy SO-72/6(Miami), 71 Crew Cab, 2015 GSW TDI
Other owned VW’s 59, 68 1500s, 69 & 71 Bug’s; 72 & 73 S-Bug’s; 67 Westy, 67 Deluxe, Other 71 DC, 72 KG GT that now lives in Australia, 12 JSW TDI, 2015 GSW TDI, 2023 Tiguan
VW technical information sights
thesamba - www.ratwell.com - www.shoptalkforums.com/ - www.vw-resource.com - http://www.type2.com/
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/ - www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm

[GusC2it]

Installation of high current draw audio amps require the same Bat. direct supply via # 10 or greater wire, switched by a relay connected to the Ing. switch or seperate switch.
I check the voltage going to my coil, supplied by the ing. switch, and noticed a voltage drop of nearly 1.5 volt. I used a simple relay near the coil operated by the ing. wire, and supplied with a 14 gage wire directly from the Bat. and picked up an extra 1.5 volt to my coil. That's an increase of about 8%. Simple performance gain.
_________________
75 type 2 http://gusc1.tripod.com/1975vwtype2
Old vices have now been upgraded to bad habits.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-Wild-Weekend-2011-St-Pete-Fl/197064760336111

[Stuggi]

When I redid the beetle's electrical system I installed 2 20A relays for driving the low- and high-beams, so that means that I can run 120W headlights at maximum without much added work to my car (the wiring for the lights isn't thick enough for that kind of power). It also adds the benefit of not wearing down the headlights relay since it's designed to drive much more than two relay-coils.
_________________
1970 Beetle
1969 Panelvan

Orange VW Fest!
Pulled out of a Lake Fest!

[francispj]

I have used the new HID discharge lamps as seen on high end european cars that have high/low (bixenon) function that fit straight in to H3 connectors at the back of the lamps and with a little wiring - about 1.5 hrs you have superb 21 st century lighting for about $150 Australian - you do need good reflectors , however to make them really perform . They are availible on ebay by multiple suppliers- Highly recommended and they drop the power usage so leess strain on the battery and wiring etc

[francispj]

H4 connector not H3

[theizzardking]

he should just compile it and sell a book, hell nigel give me access to all of your info and i'll put it together for you for a small credit and a minor fee, hahaha!
_________________
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin
'71 westie "the wanderer"

[mnskmobi]

Another factor that can have a significant effect on headlight performance is where they are pointing! My first night trip was a nightmare because (I eventually realised) the headlights were aimed too low. I suspect this happened because they had been adjusted down to counter the saggy rear which was de-sagged just before I bought the van.

PS. It's very easy to check the headlight aim using the instructions in Bentley

[NASkeet]

[GusC2it]

[quote="NASkeet"]

[NASkeet]

For those who wish to use in their old-style headlamps with P45t bulb-flange recepticles, either the conventional 60/55W quartz-halogen H4 bulbs, or the more modern, Xenon-enhanced, 60/55W quartz-halogen H4 bulbs (some said to be as much as 80~100% brighter than conventional 60/55W quartz-halogen H4 bulbs), with the three-pronged P43t flanges, there is a plastic P43t to P45t flange adapter available from ECAS 2CV Parts Ltd., who specialise in parts for the Citroen 2CV & Dyane cars.

http://www.2cvstuff.com/popups_folder/bulbs_folder/282694001.html

To date, I am aware that these P43t to P45t bulb-flange adapters, are available separately from ECAS 2CV Parts Ltd (a Citroën 2CV parts specialist) and Goffy Bulbs as follows:

ECAS 2CV Parts Ltd., Unit 9, Ladford Covert, Seighford, Stafford, ST18 9QL, England.

Tel. +44 (0) 1785 – 282 882

Website: http://www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk

E-mail: [email protected]

http://www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/adapter-converter-al...-2117.html

P. R. Goff (Proprietor), Goffy Bulbs, 62 Clare Road, Prestwood, Buckinghamshire, HP16 0NU, England.
Tel: +44 (0) 1494 – 868 218
Website: http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com
E-mail: [email protected]

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybulbs.htm

There also seem to be some general-purpose, replacement headlamp units, which are supplied with a P43t to P45t bulb-flange adapter

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/438/category/190

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/791/5-75-lens-reflector
_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

http://www.vwt2oc.net

[NASkeet]

When I made the original post for this topic thread, on 9th October 2008, it was with the intention of progressively supplementing this material as I compiled it. Sadly, for reasons I have never understood, by local public library computer system, suddenly blocked access to The Samba forum, which lasted several years.

In the meantime, a more extensive two-installment article, was published in Transporter Talk (bi-monthly magazine of the Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club) as follows:

Nigel A. Skeet, “Refurbishing & Upgrading, Headlamps & Headlamp Electrical Circuits – Part 1”, Transporter Talk, Issue 104, December 2009, Pages 35~43.

Nigel A. Skeet, “Refurbishing & Upgrading, Headlamps & Headlamp Electrical Circuits – Part 2”, Transporter Talk, Issue 105, February 2010, Pages 15~21.

Over the next few days, I shall scan these articles using OCR software and append the information after editing and proof reading.
_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

http://www.vwt2oc.net

[chabanais]

Another great post. Thank you!

I have H4s and am waiting for the cost/quality of LED headlamps to come down and will go with them.
_________________
"I spud therefore I yam."

[NASkeet]

[NASkeet]

Nigel A. Skeet, “Refurbishing & Upgrading, Headlamps & Headlamp Electrical Circuits – Part 1”, Transporter Talk, Issue 104, December 2009, Pages 35~43.

REFURBISHING and UPGRADING, HEADLAMPS
& HEADLAMP ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS

Compiled & Written by Nigel A. Skeet

Introduction

I was interested to note the technical article from Phil Lander in Australia, in which he outlined a headlamp bulb and electrical circuit upgrade, for the 1980~92 VW Transporter (i.e. Type 25, T3 or Vanagon) - specifically his own VW Syncro, published by the Club in 1996, 1998 & 2007, as follows:

PhiI Lander, "Headlight Upgrade", High Beams From Low Altitudes or
Headlight Hints From Down Under!, Transporter Talk, Issue 26, December
1996, Pages 24~25.

Phil Lender. "Uprating Headlamps", Technical Information Sheet: Topic 8,
VW Type 2 Owners' Club, February 1998.

Phil Lander, "Uprating Headlamps", Transporter Talk, Issue 90, August
2007, Pages 38~39.

Although the "split-screen" 1950~67 VW 12/1500 Type 2 and "bay-window" 1968~79 VW 1600 & 17/18/2000 Type 2s, were never renown as high-speed vehicles, they were always easily capable of exceeding, the maximum safe night-time speed on unlit roads, associated with the effective illumination range, of the factory-fitted headlamps; both the Hella and Bosch replaceable-bulb units, used in Great Britain & Europe, plus the SAE/DOT-standard, sealed-beam units, used in North America, which are allegedly even worse!

http://www.ibiblio.org/rdu/autoligt.txt

For RHD (i.e. right-hand drive) vehicles, which are driven on the left-hand side of the road (i.e. the United Kingdom, Republic of Ireland, Japan and most of the British Commonwealth; apart from a few territories, such as Canada and Mozambique - a former Portugese colony, in south east Africa), one requires RHD headlamps, which when supplied, factory-fitted to the vehicle, from Bosch or Hella, typically bore a label stating, "fur links verkehr" (i.e. for driving on the left). On dipped beam, these headlamps are directed in an asymmetric beam pattern, sloping up towards the left-hand kerb.

Those with LHD (i.e. left-hand drive) vehicles, which are usually driven on the right-hand side of the road, normally require LHD headlamps, which when supplied, factory-fitted to the vehicle, from Bosch or Hella, typically bore a label stating, "fur rechts verkehr" (i.e. for driving on the right). On dipped beam, these headlamps are directed in an asymmetric beam pattern, sloping towards the right-hand kerb, unless one has North American, SAE/DOT-standard lamps (required in the USA and permitted in Canada & Mexico), which have an entirely different beam pattern & light-intensity distribution; lacking the sharp horizontal dipped-beam cut-off, to which we are accustomed.

http://www.motivemag.com/pub/feature/tech/Motive_ Tech_ The_Difference_Between_US_and_European_Lights.shtml

There is the added complication, that apart from the more modern, SAE/DOT-standard replacement lamps, marked VOL, VO or VOR, North American headlamps, cannot be reliably aimed by optical means, using either a vertical wall & chalk marks or a specialised optical beam-setter, of the kind found, in all British MOT testing centres. To align the earlier North American headlamps, that were standard equipment, on 1st, 2nd & 3rd generation VW Transporters, one requires special workshop equipment, for mechanical (i.e. non-optical) beam-aiming alignment, which is not generally found outside North America and which reportedly, are become increasingly rare there.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

http://www.toolweb.com/irep-supplies/store.cfm?cfi...mp;partno= HOP1003 B

http://www.hoppyaimers.com/b4a.htm

Hence, if one owns a British or European registered, North American specification vehicle, one must replace the original SAE/DOT-standard headlamps, with lamps conforming to the European ECE-standard; of RHD or LHD dipping pattern, as appropriate.

If one does much night driving, in both Great Britain and Europe, it might be beneficial to have both RHD and LHD headlamps, which can be swopped over before crossing the English Channel; ensuring consistent substitution of left-hand side (i.e. nearside) & right-hand side (i.e. offside - driver's side in RHD vehicles) lamp units, to maintain correct headlamp alignment. Otherwise, one will need to fit supplementary beam converters or at the very least, mask-off the trapezoidal refractive area of the lens, using opaque, self-adhesive tape, such as PVC, electrical insulating tape. Failure to do either of these, might possibly result in a court summons or an on-the-spot fine!

Age-Related, Headlamp Performance Deterioration

As these vehicles have aged, over the past few decades (1968~79 VW Type 2s, are circa 30½~42½ years old!), headlamp performance has probably deteriorated, as a consequence of the headlamp-unit reflectors progressively losing their high-lustre, mirror finish (i.e. reflectivity) and the decreasing available voltage, owing to increasing electrical resistance of the wiring loom. An additional factor, is the decreasing transparency, of a conventional bulb's glass envelope or sealed-beam unit's outer lens, owing to the silvering effect, of the tungsten-filament's evaporation and deposition process; which is particularly noticeable on many long-service bulbs.

New, high-lustre reflectors, typically reflect more than 90% of the incident light, whilst dull, oxidised surfaces, might reflect as little as 10%; reducing a headlamp's light output, to almost a tenth of what a new reflector would give. If a reflector surface has lost its lustre, refurbishment might be possible, by recoating the surface, but it is probably only practical or economical, to replace the complete lamp unit, sealed-beam unit or separate reflector, as applicable.

Unless electrical cables have corroded internally (not usually a problem, except in a few isolated, extreme cases!), the significant increase in the wiring loom's resistance, is attributable solely to oxidation of the connections; although oxidised and/or burnt switch and relay contacts, might also make some contribution.

Current for the headlamps, flows around a complete circuit, from the positive to negative connections of the generator (i.e. dynamo or alternator), via the main-supply & secondary cables, ignition switch, main light switch, fuse box, headlamp dip & flasher relay (i.e. dimmer relay, in USA parlance), headlamp units, steel bodywork, engine crankcase & transaxle case and the transaxle-to-bodywork, braided earth strap (i.e. ground cable, in USA parlance); involving a large number of separate connections.

Reductions in the nett voltage available to the headlamps, for whatever reason (i.e. generator output and/or resistive losses in the wiring loom and connections), cause a much greater reduction in light output, than one might expect! This occurs because power consumed is proportional to voltage squared (i.e. P = V²/R) and a lower proportion of the consumed power, is emitted as visible light, owing to reduced bulb-filament temperature (see university physics text books, for a full explanation of Wien's Displacement Law and Planck's Law, re "black-body" radiation).

Assuming a typical generator supply voltage of 13•5V when under load, the following table summarises the effect of reductions (or increases, associated with greater generator output!) in the available nett voltage to the headlamps:

Applied Voltage (V) 11•48 12•15 12•83 13•5 14•18 14•85 16•2
Applied Voltage (%) 85 90 95 100 105 110 120
Relative Light Output (%) 53 67 83 100 120 145 200

It seems incredible, but reducing the headlamp's available nett voltage from 13•5V to 11•5V (a reduction of just 2•0V or 15%), virtually halves the headlamp's light output. This is why it is so important, to minimise voltage losses in the electrical circuit and to maximise the generator supply voltage as far as practical, but not exceeding the maximum charging voltage of 14•4V for 12-volt, lead-acid batteries, as stated by battery manufacturers.

Refurbishment

Apart from the few screw-stud & ring-terminal connections of the generator and various earth straps & cables, which might need periodic cleaning with a mild abrasive (e.g. fine wire wool or "wet & dry" silicon carbide paper) and water-proofing (e.g. petroleum jelly, copper grease or battery-terminal grease) the remaining connections comprise crimped male & female blade connectors (i.e. Lucar connectors). Not only is there oxidation of the contact surfaces between the connectors, which can be similarly cleaned (sometimes also needing fine-toothed, needle-files), but also where the cable's wire filaments are crimped to the connector.

If the crimped portion is only slightly discoloured, electrical resistance can be reduced by lightly soldering, so that solder only penetrates into the crimped, unsleeved portion, of the cable's wire filaments. The solder will not penetrate, if the joint is highly oxidised and/or greasy; in which case the joint must be uncrimped, degreased and/or acid-cleaned, rinsed, dried and reassembled, after which it can be soldered, as previously described.

Additional strain relief of soldered joints is also desirable, because being brittle, they are more prone to breakage; including the long-term effects of vibration. To minimise renewed oxidation of the connections, it would be advisable to inhibit the ingress of moisture, by using one or more of, terminal grease, silicone sealant, self-amalgamating tape, hot-melt adhesive with shrink sleeving (as is probably used on modern cars) or other methods.

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/38mm-adhesive-lined-heatshrink-per-6-inch

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1780704.pdf

http://www.cablejoints.co.uk/upload/3M_Heat_Shrink_Tubing_&_Sleeving_Catalogue.pdf

http://www.heatshrink-online.co.uk/heatshrink/cat_...hrink.html

http://www.printasleeve.co.uk/adhesive-lined-heatshrink.asp

http://www.finishrink.com/adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-tubing.html

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/heat-shrink-adhesive.htm

http://www.hilltop-products.co.uk/heat-shrink-tubi...g-dwa.html

These remedial measures, will restore the standard headlamp system, to the modest perfomance that existed, when the vehicle was new, or at best, provide a marginal improvement on that. To make any significant improvement over the original, as-new system, one really needs to upgrade the headlamp system specifications.

Upgrading

If one's existing 12V headlamp units, are of the type with P45t flanged, 45/40W R2 glass-envelope bulbs, then provided the reflectors still have a good mirror finish, one can simply substitute at very modest cost (typically £2•00 - £4•50 each, dependent upon source), a pair of P45t flanged, 60/55W H4 quartz-halogen bulbs, which give an exceptional improvement in headlamp performance (associated with both increased power and bulb-filament temperature), without making any modifications. This is what I did in mid-1976, for just over £9•00 in total, about 33½ years ago, with my family's then recently acquired, second-hand, British specification, 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan.

Similar 6V, P45t flanged, 60/55W H4 bulbs, are also available, albeit more expensive, from sources such as P. R. Goff, in Buckinghamshire, which might be suitable for pre-1967, "split-screen" VW Type 2s, with 6V electrical systems; assuming their headlamp units have P45t mounting-flange recepticles, as I suspect they do!

There also seems to be an adapter (Part No. BP4543AD), available from P. R. Goff, in Buckinghamshire, which enables one to retro-fit P43t flanged bulbs, to headlamps with P45t mounting-flange recepticles, but I do not know, whether the bulb-filaments, would be in the optimum focal position, relative to the headlamp reflector!

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybulbs.htm

In mid-1976, I bought for my family's 1974 Triumph Toledo, some new, general-purpose, after-market, Lucas "Brighteyes", quartz-halogen headlamps (with what I discovered many years later, had P45t mounting-flange recepticles) which were factory-fitted with a very different style of bulb-installation adapter. This facilitated the use of Lucas 60/55W twin-filament, quartz-halogen headlamp bulbs, having the crescent-notched, flat, circular, P36t mounting flange, of the British pre-focused-bulb pattern, which is very different from either the P45t or P43t patterns.

To be legal in the USA, owners there will either need to substitute SAE/DOT-standard tungsten-halogen sealed-beam units (said to be a far from ideal, low-power option) or preferably, more modern SAE/DOT standard H4 headlamp units, marked VOL, VO or VOR, with P43t flanged, 60/55W H4 quartz-halogen bulbs. In Mexico and Canada, one has the legal option of substituting European, ECE-standard headlamp units.

Owners of British or European registered vehicles, who need to replace their headlamps, would be well advised to opt for dedicated H4 headlamp units, with P43t flanged, H4 quartz-halogen bulbs (greater choice re bulb manufacturers, power ratings & light intensity), as made by Bosch, Hella, Lucas, Magnetti-Marelli, Neolite, Stanley, Valeo (i.e. Cibie or SEV Marechal), Wipac and other companies. Bosch and Hella make direct replacement Lamp units, but with products from some other manufacturers, one might need additional mounting hardware.

When purchasing replacement H4 quartz-halogen bulbs, it is important to obtain those with the correct flange type, whether P45t or P43t, as illustrated.

Two-dimensional projections of P45t & P43t flanged bulbs

P45t flanged, conventional glass-enveloped bulb

[Img]http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.euIVWPonlinestore/
lighting/photo/bulbphoto/P45tasym.jpg[/Img]


P45t flanged, substitute-H4 quartz-halogen bulb

P43t flanged, dedicated-H4 quartz-halogen bulb

1968~73 VW Type 1, 2 & 3 headlamp, with P45t flanged, glass-enveloped bulb

1968~73 VW Type 1, 2 & 3 H4 headlamp, with P43t flanged, quartz-halogen bulb

1968~73 VW Type 1, 2 & 3 headlamp, sealed-beam unit

Illustrations from the official 1968~79 VW Type 2 Replacement Parts Catalogue & Microfiche, Page & Frame No. 97-00

Top: British & European specification, 1968~73 VW Type 2 headlamp unit (curved-lensed) with separate reflector & lens, plus replaceable bulb.

Middle: North American specification, 1968~73 VW Type 2 headlamp with
sealed-beam unit (curved-lensed).


Illustrations from the official 1968~79 VW Type 2 Replacement Parts Catalogue & Microfiche, Page & Frame No. 97-10

Top: British & European specification, 1974~79 VW Type 2 headlamp unit (flat-lensed) with composite reflector & lens, plus replaceable bulb.

Bottom: North American specification, 1974~79 VW Type 2 headlamp with
sealed-beam unit (flat-lensed).


These days, there are also various brands of Xenon enhanced, 60/55W H4 quartz-halogen bulbs (not to be confused with Xenon HID bulbs!), which are claimed to be brighter still. For the same electrical power consumption, the advertising literature for different brands, claim increases in visible-light output, ranging from 30% to 90%, which I envisage being achieved, by increases in bulb-filament temperature (possibly using dichroic-bulb technology) and/or external surface area. Light output increases of 80% and 90%, are claimed for Philips X- Treme Power and OSRAM Night Breaker bulbs respectively.

http://www.powerbulbs.com/product_I ist.asp?cat1=37&cat2= 73

http://www.powerbulbs.com/product_list.asp?cat1=44&cat2=74

Although not clearly stated, I suspect the Xenon enhanced, 60/55W H4 quartz-halogen. bulbs. might only be manufactured with P43t mounting flanges, but it is possible that some might be available with P45t mounting flanges, about which I shall make further enquiries. If not, then the P43t flange to P45t receptacle adapter, might be an appropriate solution, for those who do not have special H4 lamp units.

It is also possible to upgrade the headlamps, by using higher power H4 bulbs, such as 70/65W, 85/80W, 100/55W, 100/80W, 100/90W, 130/90W, 130/100W & 160/100W, but it would be necessary to employ a revised electrical circuit, with heavy-duty cable and two or more accessory relays, which will avoid the possibility of the original factory-fitted cables overheating and maximise the voltage available to the headlamps by providing a more direct, lower-resistance current path.

In 1989, before Xenon enhanced H4 bulbs were available, I performed this further upgrade to my family's vehicle, using P45t flanged, 100/80W H4 bulbs (the highest power, then available for our existing lamp units) and 40A accessory relays; retro-fitting a dipped-beam warning light (supplementary to the blue main-beam warning light), that is quite useful under conditions where daytime dipped-headlamp use, is either recommended or mandatory, as is the case in Canada and Scandinavia, plus an increasing number of other European countries, unless one has dedicated daytime running lights, which are likely to be mandatory on new cars manufactured for the British & European market, commencing circa February 2001.

I have also since incorporated a switch and diode, between the headlamp dip & flasher-relay output terminals, so that if I desire, I can keep the dipped-beam illuminated, whilst main beam is selected, which is perfectly legal in the United Kingdom and is actually employed on some car marques I am told; including Jaguar.

Factory-standard, 1968~79 VW Type 2 headlamp circuit

Modified, 1968~79 VW Type 2 headlamp circuit, incorporating accessory relays and dipped-beam warning light

By reducing their associated current load, to almost nil, the incorporation of accessory relays, also has the secondary benefit, of extending the lifespan of the ignition switch, main light switch and headlamp dip & flasher relay, for which it is becoming increasingly difficult, to find good-quality replacements, when and if these fail. In contrast, good-quality, 30A and 40A accessory relays, are readily available at modest cost. Hence, it might also be beneficial to implement this upgrade, with the relatively low-power 60/55W headlamps, to both minimise voltage losses and extend component lifespans.

Direction-indicator relay, headlamp dip & flasher relay and three accessory relays, mounted in the 1971~79 VW Type 2, combined fuse & relay box

Note that the combined fuse & relay boxes, of North American specification vehicles, have a two-terminal buzzer fitted, leaving only two vacant positions for accessory relays.

Normally, accessory relays can be plugged into the vacant positions of the 1971~79 VW Type 2, combined fuse & relay box, but if this is not an option, there are several other ways of mounting & connecting them, including plug-in, accessory relay boxes, or even moulded plastic, six-position, relay connector blocks, salvaged from Austin Montego or Metro cars, of which I have two, mounted inconspicuously, beneath my 1973 VW Type 2, steering-column support bracket. I still have a few spare, for sale or barter.

A single, six-position, relay connector block, salvaged from an Austin Montego

Two, six-position, relay connector blocks, mounted beneath my 1973 VW Type 2, steering-column support bracket.

_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

http://www.vwt2oc.net

[NASkeet]

Nigel A. Skeet, “Refurbishing & Upgrading, Headlamps & Headlamp Electrical Circuits – Part 2”, Transporter Talk, Issue 105, February 2010, Pages 15~21.

Modifying Bodywork Headlamp Buckets

The design of the factory-fitted headlamp units, with single mounting screw, used on non-North American specification, 1968~73 VW Type 2s, severely limits the scope of what replacement headlamp units can be substituted.

By the mid-1990s, the reflectors of my family's 1973 VW Type 2's original headlamp units had begun to lose their lustre, but having some virtually-new, 1974~79 VW Type 2, non-H4 headlamp units, which I had salvaged from a vehicle I broke for spares, I wanted to substitute these instead of buying expensive, new headlamp units, of the earlier pattern. To do this, I had three DIY-fabricated mounting lugs, with captive M4 nuts, welded into the bodywork's headlamp buckets.

Modified 1968~73 VW Type 2 headlamp-buckets, with three supplementary headlamp-mounting lugs & captive M4 nuts, to mount 1974~79 VW Type 2 headlamps or others with the same mounting requirements.

Note that the pseudo-trapezium shaped refractive zone, for the RHD, left-hand dipping headlamp unit, is on the left-hand side of the lens, as seen from the front. For a European specification vehicle, this would have been on the right-hand side of the lens, for a LHD, right-hand dipping headlamp unit.

Template with information for positioning three mounting brackets, for retro-fitment of 1974~79 VW Type 2 headlamps, into the headlamp buckets of NON North American specification, 1968~73 VW Type 2s

Headlamp Flashing

British & European drivers, take for granted, the facility to flash the headlamp main beams on and off, without turning the headlamps on, at the dashboard-mounted, main light switch; the steering-column mounted, dipswitch (i.e. dimmer-switch, in USA parlance), acting like a non-latching, momentary switch, so that the main beam is illuminated, only whilst the switch-lever is depressed. However, 1968~79 VW Type 2s of North American and South African specification, plus possibly some others, lack this facility.

Strictly speaking, flashing the headlamps, has the same meaning as sounding the horn (i.e. warning other drivers of one's presence), which is useful on busy, noisy, high-speed roads, where a horn might not be heard or the origin of the horn's sound difficult to determine.

Informally, flashing the main beam in the UK, is used to acknowledge a courtesy, signal to other drivers that one is allowing them to emerge from a road junction or driveway, or simply as a friendly greeting between fellow air-cooled VW owners. It's also used by British lorry drivers, to indicate to overtaking drivers, that they are far enough ahead, to return to the lane in front of them, without cutting-in.

Apart from the part numbers, the British & European headlamp dip & flasher relay (VW part No. 411 941 583B) is almost identical in appearance, to that of the North American & South African headlamp dimmer relay (VW part No. 411 941 583C), for the 1971~79 VW Type 2s, except that instead of a shaped, brass locating lug, there is an additional 6•3 mm (i.e. ¼-inch) blade terminal, labelled 30, which is connected via a red 2•5 mm² cable, to a constant battery supply, at terminal-30 of the fuse box. Similar differences exist between headlamp relays, for the 1968~70 VW Type 2s.

It is solely this additional relay-terminal & cable connection, rather than a modified dip-switch, which provides the headlamp flashing facility. Hence, North American and South African vehicles, can also have the flashing facility, simply by substituting the appropriate relay and making the additional cable connection, as a few of my e-mail pen pals in the USA, have already done.

British & European headlamp dip & flasher relay and the North American headlamp dimmer relay, for the 1971~79 VW Type 2, showing the similarities and differences

Number the relay images from 1 to 7, by counting from left to right, first across the top row of three images and then across the bottom row of four images.

The North American (certainly USA, if not Canada) specification, VW headlamp dimmer relay (VW part No. 411 941 883C, SWF part No. R 200.957), with red script, depicted as images 2 & 7, has one > ¼ inch brass location lug, plus four ¼ inch, brass blade terminals, labelled 56, 56a, 56b and S.

The British & European specification, headlamp dip & flasher relay for the VW-Audi (VW part No. 411 941 583B, SWF part No. R 200.958, SAR part No. 9202, Hella part No. 201.007), depicted as images 1, 3, 4 & 6 and for the Volvo 300-Series (SWF part No. R 201.003; Hella part No. 201.003), depicted as image 5, have five ¼ inch, brass blade terminals, labelled 30, 56, 56a, 56b and S; terminal 30 being in the same position (i.e. left-hand side of images 1, 2 & 3), as the locating lug, on the North American relay. Despite the different part numbers, for the VW-Audi and Volvo relays, the Volvo relay, can be used in the air-cooled VWs.

Having high-power headlamps, it is important that they are extinguished, when the ignition is switched off. Owing to the starter-motor-interrupted, ignition-controlled supply (i.e. terminal X) to the main light switch, 1971~79 VW Type 2s do this automatically, but the 1968~70 model-years, do not have this facility, so one needs to ensure that their headlamps are switched off manually, otherwise the battery will be rapidly discharged!

It is possible to mimic the later models, by slightly revising the main electrical supply circuit, substituting a later-model, main light switch, in combination with two relays, to create a starter-motor-interrupted, ignition-controlled supply. This supply can also be used for other high-current loads (e.g. windscreen wipers, heated rear window & heated front windscreen), which is automatically interrupted when the starter motor is operated, maximising available battery voltage & current, to restart the engine if one inadvertently stalls.

Three-Section, Combination Headlamp & Auxiliary Lamp

The 7-inch headlamps, fitted to 1968~79 VW Type 2s, usually have only a twin-filament headlamp bulb for main & dipped beams, plus a separate 4W or 5W BA9s bulb for the side-light or parking-light facility (absent from North American specification headlamps). Sometime ago, I learned of some unusual after-market, three-section, replacement P43t flanged, 60/55W H4 quartz-halogen headlamp units, which incorporate a side-light and an additional 55W H3 quartz-halogen lamp; this being either a fog lamp (with yellow lens) or long-range driving-lamp (with normal clear lens), dependent upon the headlamp model concerned.

Three-section, LHD headlamp unit, incorporating a long-range driving light, as available in Brazil

Three-section RHD headlamp units, incorporating a yellow-lensed fog light, retro-fitted to an Australian 1975 VW 2000 Type 2.

Note the accessory, headlamp "eye-brow peaks", that are purely cosmetic, but which might partially obscure, the upper portion of the headlamps, where the obligatory side-lights are located; in addition to posing a safety hazard to pedestrians and cyclists, etc, in the event of a frontal collision.

For vehicle owners who prefer to avoid fitting auxiliary lamps to the front panel or bumper, these three-section headlamps, offer a potentially viable alternative. I believe they are primarily intended for post-1973 vehicles, but modification of the earlier bodywork lamp housings, is a relatively simple procedure, as briefly described earlier.

The three-section lamps are certainly available in Australia, Brazil and the USA, plus possibly several other countries, which might also include the European Union & Great Britain, but I have yet to learn of any for sale here. I have yet to confirm the origin of those sold in Brazil and the USA, but those sold in Australia, are made by Neolite-ZKW (an Austro-Indian joint venture company),that appears to be a major original-equipment manufacturer, which exports worldwide, to South East Asia, North & South America, Africa and Europe, including the UK and Ireland.

They manufacture many different headlamps and other lamps, for various air-cooled and water-cooled VW models, in addition to three types of three-section headlamp units (i.e. NEO 757, NEO 757 A & NEO 789) for 1973~83 VWs, which are available in both LHD and RHD configuration. Of their 1500-item product range, nearly 250 are said to be ECE certified, but whether this includes any of the VW compatible headlamp units, I have yet to determine. As far as I can determine from the on-line catalogue, it is the NEO 757A lamp unit, which has the fog-lamp option, with a yellow coloured lens; whilst both the NEO 757 & NEO 789 lamp units, have the long-range driving-lamp option, with an all-clear lens.

Indian made, Neolite NEO 339 & Neo 757A three-section headlamps, with yellow-lensed fog light

http://neolitezkw.in/

http://neolitezkw.in/searchproduct.asp?category=VE...agen#thumb

Xenon HID (i.e. High Intensity Discharge) Headlamps & Conversion Kits

At present, I know of no complete Xenon HID headlamp systems, which can be readily retro-fitted, to the 1950 to 1992, 1st, 2nd & 3rd generation VW Transporters. However, it seems that some after-market manufacturers and retailers (including at least one in the UK), are offering so-called Xenon HID H4 conversion kits, to naïve vehicle owners. These kits involve the substitution of a modified HID bulb, with a P43t mounting flange, which will physically fit into an H4 headlamp unit, but whose optics are incompatible with the nature of the HID light source, resulting in an improperly focused beam pattern and excessive glare to oncoming drivers.

The HID arc-light source, is fundamentally different in size, shape, orientation and luminosity distribution compared to that of the small, heated, helical tungsten-filament, within a quartz-halogen bulb. Hence it requires a specially designed reflector and lens system, to minimise glare and optimise illumination of the road and roadside. Under ECE Regulation 48, HID headlamps are also required to have as a glare-reduction measure, a lens-cleaning system (i.e. high-pressure water jets or low-pressure water jets & lamp wipers) and an automatic levelling system (typically comprising a controller, sensors and stepper motors), to compensate for both vehicle payload and dynamic changes in vehicle attitude, under braking and acceleration.

Daniel J. Stern, an automotive lighting consultant, in Toronto, Canada, discusses & illustrates the perils, of substituting Xenon HID bulbs into conventional H4 headlamps, at the following website link; providing further links to other information sources around the World, including the UK:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

Daytime Running Light Implementation

Although strictly speaking, not a part of headlamp upgrading, the probable need to facilitate some form of DRL (i.e. daytime running light) implementation, might influence one's choice of headlamp unit; some of H4 headlamps, incorporating a ring of several LEDs, around the lamp's circumference.

Presently made by Neolite, are two VW compatible, 7 inch circular H4 headlamps, with P43t flanged H4 bulbs, having a circumferential ring of either blue or green LEDs, but although these are described as parking lights, the substitution of higher intensity, white LEDs, could potentially serve as DRLs.

There are also toroidal (i.e. doughnut-shaped) fluorescent lamp tube & inverter kits, sometimes referred to as "angel eyes" (seen on some modern BMW cars), that can be retro-fitted around the circumference of existing circular headlamps, which might possibly serve as low-power, high-visibilty, DRLs. So far, I have only come across details of after-market "angel eyes" pertaining to 5¾ inch circular headlamps, but there might be some for 7 inch headlamps, either now or in the future.

http://www.angeleyesweb.co.uk

Given the future importance of DRLs, I intend to discuss the options in more detail, when the requirements are more clearly defined. Otherwise we might be obliged to drive during the day, with constantly lit dipped headlamps, which will reduce bulb life and have a modest, but measurable effect on fuel economy.

Useful Addresses

Auto Bulbs Direct, Unit 4, Hollybrook Road, Southampton, Hampshire, S016 6RB, United Kingdom
Website: http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk

Autoelectrics Mobile Product Services, 10 Arrow Road, Telford, Shropshire, TF5 OLF, United Kingdom.
Tel. (UK) 01952 - 247007 Tel. (International) +44 1952 - 247007
Website: http://www.autoelectrics.net
E-mail: [email protected]

Bernard Bryant (Proprietor), Classic-Spares-Electrical, Fordbrook
Cottage, Charlton Lane, Torton, Hartlebury, Worcestershire, DY117SD,
United Kingdom.
Website: http://www.classic-spares-electrical.com
E-mail: [email protected]
Classic & Vintage Bulbs, 82 Cumming Street, Blackwood, South Australia 5051.
Tel. / Fax. (International) +61 08 8278 4393
Website: http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com

P. R. Goff (Proprietor), Goffy Bulbs, 62 Clare Road, Prestwood, Buckinghamshire, HP16 ONU, United Kingdom.
Tel. (UK) 01494 - 868 218 Tel. (International) +44 1494 - 868 218
Website: http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com
E-mail: [email protected]

Neolite-ZKW, B-24, Mayapuri Industrial Area, Phase-l New Delhi – 110 064, India
Tel. (International) +91 - 11- 4563 6363
Fax. (International) +91 - 11- 2811 6025
Website: http://www.neolitezkw.com
E-mail: [email protected]

Power Bulbs, Aysgarth House, Aysgarth Drive, Wakefield, West
Yorkshire, WF2 8UG, United Kingdom.
Tel. (UK) 0845 - 123 2855 Tel. (International) +44 845 - 123 2855
Tel. (UK) 01 924 - 334 180 Tel. (International) +44 1294 - 334 180
Website: http://www.powerbulbs.com E-mail: [email protected]

Lee Appleyard (Proprietor), Vintage Headlamp Restoration, Limestone
Cottage Lane, Wadsley Bridge, Sheffield, S6 lNJ, United Kingdom.
Tel. (UK) 0114 - 285 3555 Tel. (International) +44 114- 285 3555
Website: http://www.vintage-headlamp-restoration.co.uk
E-mail: [email protected]

Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd., 9 Buxton Court, Manners Industrial Estate,
Ilkeston, Derbyshire, DE7 8EF, United Kingdom.
Tel. (UK) 0115 - 930 5454 Tel. (International) +44 115930 5454
Fax. (UK) 0115 - 944 0101 Fax. (International) +44 1159440101
Website: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu
E-mail: [email protected]
_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

http://www.vwt2oc.net

[telford dorr]

Good articles (as always), Nigel. I've been running Cibie H4 headlights for years, and have retrofitted the quite useful Euro style flashing headlight relay into my '71 panel, and have never had any regrets.

A note or two:

- If retrofitting relays to power your headlights, use the best quality high current units you can find. Low quality and/or low current relays are problematic, at best.

- Don't fit excessively large feeder wires. Because tungsten filament bulbs are pretty much a dead short when not illuminated, the inrush current that occurs when switched on can be massive, and easily spot weld a relay. Thus, limiting the feeder wire size such that it provides just enough operating current with acceptable voltage drops can actually increase the reliability of the lighting system by limiting inrush current damage to relays (if fitted) or to the headlight beam relay and headlight switch. [Ask me how I know...]

Any ideas on maintaining aging reflectors? Over time, they indeed lose their luster. Obviously, replacement solves the problem, but for those of us running NLA lamps, like Cibie Z-beams, that's not a desirable option. I've considered washing the insides of the reflector housings in alcohol, then drying under high vacuum, but have not tried it yet. Ideas?
_________________
'71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST)

[NASkeet]

[telford dorr]

[telford dorr]

OK, measurement made.

Used a Lambda adjustable constant voltage / constant current power supply to pass approximately 100 ma (0.1 amp) through the dipped beam filament of a (used) Philips 55/60 watt H4 lamp.

Equipment used: Fluke 8020B to measure lamp current, Fluke 8050a to measure lamp voltage.

Actual current: 112.5 ma (0.1125 amps)
measured voltage: 20.8 mv (0.0208 volts)
calculated cold resistance: 0.185 ohms

Thus, when 14.4 volts is applied to a cold filament, the instantaneous current is 14.4 / 0.185 = 77.8 amps, or 155.6 amps for a pair of lamps. [This exceeds the 40 amp rating of a good relay by a significant amount.]

Now granted, this current surge doesn't last long (milliseconds, maybe), but it's enough to stick a relay, and is definitely hard on the filament itself (which is why filament lamps generally fail when switched on). It follows that some current-limiting series wiring resistance is likely a good thing, as long as it doesn't limit normal lamp performance.
_________________
'71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST)