Author |
Message |
caseydenise Samba Member
Joined: April 25, 2004 Posts: 1637 Location: The Great Swamp, NJ
|
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
My heater was working, and I could hear the pump functioning, little clicks at a time. Then I took the heater out and did some maintenance to it. After putting it all back together it wouldn't click at all. Could it be the points or something that got moved?
I hit it in place behind the wheel with a long bar and hammer, then I smacked it a few hard times with the gas tank out. _________________ Central Jersey Volkswagen Society - President |
|
Back to top |
|
|
man130 Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2008 Posts: 406 Location: long island , ny.
|
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 4:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hit it , smack it with a hammer, take it easy dont kill it ,it not those damn ducks you hate so much. Just tap it repeatedly to free it up if a little corrosion got in there. But probably not since it was just working. Did you try a full 12 volts to it ?just hook up a positive and negitive dose'nt matter which terminal is which and just remove one and keep touching terminal for a second at I time to see if that unfreezes it. I used one of those portable 12 volt jump starter things I keep in the wifes car to do it.At least this way you figure out if its heater or pump with problem |
|
Back to top |
|
|
caseydenise Samba Member
Joined: April 25, 2004 Posts: 1637 Location: The Great Swamp, NJ
|
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 4:52 am Post subject: |
|
|
I have been trouble shooting my heater fuel pump again. It is KEY to run these heaters every week. This way gas can't gunk up the pump, like I let mine do.
Here is a simple way to check if your heater is working correctly and it is actually the pump. I just ran a simple testlight between the terminals for the pump.
Link
Earlier in the thread I talked about Martin Allen in Colorado who fixes these heater. I did end up sending my heater out to him for a refurbish and he did an OUTSTANDING job. He is here on the samba and I highly recommend him for any gas heater work. _________________ Central Jersey Volkswagen Society - President |
|
Back to top |
|
|
BNMike Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2009 Posts: 333 Location: Hot Springs, SD
|
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:21 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for the video, Casey.........
There are hardly any of the "appliances" working on my car right now (just the lights), so that will come in handy when I get to messing with the electrics
BNMike |
|
Back to top |
|
|
doublecanister Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2008 Posts: 1184 Location: Richmond, Va
|
Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:05 am Post subject: just sayin |
|
|
Hey Casey,
I know when I got my 73' the prev owner said the heater was all broke,
and real expensive to fix.
Man130 helped me get her going.
The fuel pump wasnt working, but was getting 12 volts. 10 to 12v at least.
I put 2 wires to the pump straight to a car battery, kept getting sparks and no pump click. Well, I tapped it, cussed it, tapped the wires, created lots of sparks, well, on the 200th wire tap, she clicked. It was frozen up.
So, I pulled the fuel hose to the heater, put it into a catch can, and started working the fuel pump with the external battery to prime the hose, once done she fired up and runs fine.
And YES, you do need to excercise the heaters, MONTHLY is best.
With Ethanol fuels and the water that can collect from that being in gas, it could cause corrosion in the pump, now I'm not sure what the pumps internals are made of (kinda guesing here) but with all the trouble I had with corrosion, and new ethanol gas 'eating' my gas tanks 'sealer job', I'd say Ethanol can (from the water attraction) cause these heaters to foul up easier from sitting than back in the ol' days.
But that's my guess.
Hope ya keep her running.
Also, I found out my heater runs best when the temp knob Is NOT pulled all the way out. She gets hot enough to roast marshmellows, although I've not tryed that yet, it feels that hot!
T _________________ ****************************************
2020 - Mustang Eco Boost [High Performance]
1973 - Thing
1966 - Mustang GT- Fastback
1951 - Ford F1 pickup Flathead V8 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
caseydenise Samba Member
Joined: April 25, 2004 Posts: 1637 Location: The Great Swamp, NJ
|
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 10:01 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ok, with the cold in the air, I have been trouble shooting my heater pump every night.
This is a video of my pump direct to my good truck battery
Link
This is the voltage coming out of my gas heater to the pump. It's very low and I don't think it is giving enough power to push my pump
Link
And this is the current out of my truck battery, just to show what it takes to move the pump.
Link
I checked over all my wiring to make sure there was no corrosion causing voltage drop. I think I just need a better working fuel pump.
Any incite would be great. Thanks _________________ Central Jersey Volkswagen Society - President |
|
Back to top |
|
|
man130 Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2008 Posts: 406 Location: long island , ny.
|
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 11:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
Casey-that pump is fine! Did you pull the heater itself apart and check/clean the points that are inside .I had the same problem either from not being used or being used for so long (since 1973) I dont know. But the points had a layer of white corrosion built up on the points themselves.All it took was a piece of emory cloth to clean it up real gentle like,cause I would'nt know where to get a new set of points from. Once you pull the heater apart and look at the insides, it all starts to make sense how it all works.Pretty simple really. If you look at the sticky about heaters it shows how to take it apart and which wires go where ,and remember there are two sets of points to clean |
|
Back to top |
|
|
man130 Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2008 Posts: 406 Location: long island , ny.
|
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 11:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
Casey-that pump is fine! Did you pull the heater itself apart and check/clean the points that are inside .I had the same problem either from not being used or being used for so long (since 1973) I dont know. But the points had a layer of white corrosion built up on the points themselves.All it took was a piece of emory cloth to clean it up real gentle like,cause I would'nt know where to get a new set of points from. Once you pull the heater apart and look at the insides, it all starts to make sense how it all works.Pretty simple really. If you look at the sticky about heaters it shows how to take it apart and which wires go where ,and remember there are two sets of points to clean |
|
Back to top |
|
|
caseydenise Samba Member
Joined: April 25, 2004 Posts: 1637 Location: The Great Swamp, NJ
|
Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 5:19 am Post subject: |
|
|
Man130- you could be right about cleaning my points. I did send out the heater to be refurbished, but it has been almost two years since then. So the points in that time could be dirty. I will have to try and get inside there and clean them up.
Last night I wire tired the heater boxes so they would work in my bug. If I can't get the heater working tonight, I'm taking my oval to the Cool Water Cruise tomorrow. 70 miles of fall cruising with 400+ cars! _________________ Central Jersey Volkswagen Society - President |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Solomon Grundy Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2004 Posts: 747 Location: Silicon Valley
|
Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
In my vast amount of skill and stupidity I managed to break the grounding screw on the motor housing.
It all started when I was inspired to find out why my fuel pump on my BN4 decided to stop working 8 months ago. Per this post. “Heater (fuel pump) question”
After trying some similar procedures I discovered the pump would work as long as I had the spark plug disconnected. This also worked in reveres so I surmised perhaps I too needed to check and clean my points. This would be a new adventure being I never had the BN4 fully dismantled…
A long around step “8. Remove the screw holding the brown ground wire to the motor housing.” I broke the screw off in the motor housing… BLAST!
I believe this unit has never been disassembled so you can imagine everything is very had to take apart.
Now I need to know something before I really screw it all up.
Can I still proceed to step “9. Give it a tap and the motor assembly will come out of the housing:” without destroying the unit?
I have tried to tap it out but it is well stuck from all these years of being used.
Where should I apply the force if I can in fact tap it out with the grounding screw still in?
Your comments gentlemen….
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=352241&start=60
///Mink wrote: |
I wasn't sure where to add these pics, so I'll put them here since I spent most of my debugging time in this thread. I troubleshot mine to the point that i knew I needed to clean my points, but for the life of me I couldn't figure out how to get to them in the first place. There were lots of references to "just pull the caps off and bam, there are your points". So I figured these might help someone else.
To get to the points, the fan motor has to come out. So pull the heater out of the car and get it on the bench.
1. Remove the 4 screws along the seam in the outer case
2. Pry open the case enough so that you can get to the clamp holding the fan assembly in:
3. Using a 10mm wrench, socket, whatever, remove the bolt and the clamp.
4. Disconnect the 4 fan wires (brown/black/green/white) and feed them through the outer case while pulling out the fan assembly.
The fan assembly is out!
5. Remove the small rear fan - it's held on with an allen screw. You will probably have to clean some gunk out of it to see it.
6. Remove the big orange fan - thread a 4mm screw into the brass fitting to push the fan off the motor shaft. A Bug taillight screw works great for this.
7. Remove the clip holding the motor into the housing:
8. Remove the screw holding the brown ground wire to the motor housing.
9. Give it a tap and the motor assembly will come out of the housing:
Now you can follow the procedures in the rest of this thread to clean and adjust the points and/or replace the capacitors.
I hope this will help someone in the future. |
[/quote] _________________ "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
- Dr. Seuss
VW 181 Archive: https://sites.google.com/site/jeffgilleland/vw_archive
| _______
| |_______| '73 Thing "481"
| _\_\_|_/_/_
| |O||_4_||O|
| [ ]=====[ ]
http://vwthingregistry.com
https://doublecabshaka.wordpress.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
man130 Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2008 Posts: 406 Location: long island , ny.
|
Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 1:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I dont believe that grounding screw goes completly through to attach to anything,so yes I think it will still tap right out.As for grounding screw if you cant get it out ,why not just drill and tap another one making sure length of screw wont penatrate through to anything |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Solomon Grundy Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2004 Posts: 747 Location: Silicon Valley
|
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 11:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
Agreed; I will need to drill and tape a new hole for the grounding screw.
But now with the clip holding the motor into the housing out and the small rear fan off I cannot tap out the motor assembly in the housing…
With some reluctance I put a little WD40 in the area around were the clip goes in hopes that will help free the motor assembly. Now I am double sure it will stink when I get it going again…
I assume from all the pictures that apply pressure here?
With a light tap on an appropriate sized socket to force out the motor assembly from the housing?
It will not budge…?! _________________ "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
- Dr. Seuss
VW 181 Archive: https://sites.google.com/site/jeffgilleland/vw_archive
| _______
| |_______| '73 Thing "481"
| _\_\_|_/_/_
| |O||_4_||O|
| [ ]=====[ ]
http://vwthingregistry.com
https://doublecabshaka.wordpress.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
man130 Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2008 Posts: 406 Location: long island , ny.
|
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 8:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I dont remember anything but that clip holding it in that case.Just make sure you have some slack in wires so they dont get you hung up .Besides that cant think of anything that would be holding it .Unless that grounding screw is longer than I remember and that is holding it in . Sorry not that much help. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
///Mink Samba Member
Joined: May 03, 2000 Posts: 5051 Location: Fair Oaks, CA
|
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 8:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I wish I could help more. When I did that writeup, the motor took hardly any persuasion to come out. So I guess that leaves two possibilities with yours - the ground screw also acts as a set screw and is holding your motor in place (I doubt this), or yours just has more gunk/rust/corrosion than mine did, and that's what's holding it there. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Solomon Grundy Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2004 Posts: 747 Location: Silicon Valley
|
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You were correct. The ground screw barely pokes through the other side of the housing.
I let the metal ring that sits under the wire clip soak with some wd40 over night and I was able to pop out the motor housing, Seams like the metal ring was slightly corroded and stuck in the housing. The metal fan side that takes 30 + revolutions to open was so full of carbon I am surprised it worked at all. After cleaning the gap seemed okay. The other side that has the plastic fan was less dirty and did need to be gapped.
When Sam gets back from Florida I will borrow his tap set and make a new grounding screw hole in the motor housing body.
I do not have a voltmeter so let’s hope it all works. I will post next week if I have time to put it together and let you Volks know.
Thanks for the help. _________________ "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
- Dr. Seuss
VW 181 Archive: https://sites.google.com/site/jeffgilleland/vw_archive
| _______
| |_______| '73 Thing "481"
| _\_\_|_/_/_
| |O||_4_||O|
| [ ]=====[ ]
http://vwthingregistry.com
https://doublecabshaka.wordpress.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Alexios Samba Member
Joined: November 05, 2009 Posts: 76 Location: Norway
|
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 4:19 pm Post subject: Heater fuel pump |
|
|
Hi
I am having some issues with my fuel pump. I have been working on the heater for ages now and finally managed to fire it up. I worked it for 10 min. About a week later i tried it again but it did not work. The pump was not cliking.
I took the pump off the car and hit it with 12v straught from a car battery. After some tries it started clicking. I sprayed some oil into the inlet of the punp and worked it some more. By the end the pump was clicking with such force that i could feel it through the bench. I installed the pump again and turned the heater on. It ckicked right away a few times but it missed its vigour after a short while. I saw fuel move up the line, heard ignition, and got a bit of earm air. But that was it no mre clicking and the cutoff kicked in after a while. I tried 12v straight from the battery and it clicked right away spitting fuel. I tried the pump connected to the heater but not connected to the tank or the outlet tube. It also clicked away happily. But when i connected the fuel line to the pump it clicked a few times and died.
Why does the pump work fine with no fuel and not at all when connected?
I feel like the voltage at the pump might not be strong enough.
Casey: did you end up sorting your pump out?
Alex |
|
Back to top |
|
|
man130 Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2008 Posts: 406 Location: long island , ny.
|
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The points inside control the power by interupting the ground not the positve so I would think if you have corrosion on those points it would drop the voltage ,like when you have a loose or coroaded ground cable on the starter ,you get the click of starter but no turn over seems the same to me .Thats where I would start. I would also like to know how Casey made out seems like same problem.Good luck |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mpanossian Samba Member
Joined: March 11, 2008 Posts: 33 Location: UPPER DARBY PA
|
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 5:55 pm Post subject: gas heater pump |
|
|
where can I buy a gas heater pump ! Thanks |
|
Back to top |
|
|
hubscaps Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2013 Posts: 6 Location: United States
|
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 4:53 pm Post subject: BN4 wire diagram question |
|
|
Good day!
I am rebuilding a Eberspacher BN4 gas heater but I'm having a problem trouble shooting some wiring issues.
I have taken a picture of the data plate on the heater and a shot of the wiring and attached to this email for your reference.
I was wondering if you hade a copy of the correct wiring digram for my heater? Please note that my heater does not have a temperature control sensor at the exit of the heater.
Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|