F.Y.I. short Type 1 swing axle's in a type 3

[johny__utah]

i see what you're saying, i didn't get them mixed up though. I never removede the inside (thinner) spacer becuse id have remove the axle bearing. Just ondering what direction the inside bearing goes. Edges are diffrent. One side of the spacer feels flat and other the edge is machined.
_________________
1956 L31
1961 L346 L347
1963 L380 L289

[Gotdub]

Sorry to bother

I have recently done the short axle conversion on my 62 notchback. I have used the type 3 bearing castings I was wondering if anyone has a part number or picture of the correct bearing/seal casting to use. I do have the orignall short axle castings but think they are off a 63 beetle.

Many thanks matt

[W1K1]

http://www.vwispwest.com/311501311.html

65-66 beetle castings 311 501 311
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

[Gotdub]

W1K1 thank you very much turns out I already have that size bearing casting on the car many thanks thou saved me a lot of brain ache


Matt

[68notch]

I am currently making the short axle swap and being very careful about it as I go, car has been on stands for three weeks now. (including lowering, adjusting torsion bars etc). 4 stud car.

So I am using the short beetle axles with matching tubes and I also have the matching beetle bearing retainer caps.

Will be fitting the original type 3 drums back on.

So now I am considering the machining of the wheel plate?(heavy cast part that the wheel studs fix into) and found that this needs a total of 15mm machined off it since this is the basic difference between the axles differing long and short splines.

The point I am now getting to is that since the new short axle casting ends have a 3mm shallower bearing seat that this will also push the "heavy cast plate" and the attached drum 3mm further out away from the backing plate than original, Yes??

So in the end I am planning to machine my "heavy cast plate" 3mm off the back side and 12mm off the outside nose giving me the 15mm total and putting my drum back to where it would have been originally.

I have not noticed any other mention of this issue in the thread, or maybe the 3mm difference in the drum to backing plate is not an issue anyway??

Before I make a mistake, does this all make sense??
_________________
John

68 Aussie notch
2011 Citroen Berlingo

https://www.facebook.com/Fastacraft

RHD dash pad project http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=475227

[flyinglow94]

No, Do not machine anything off of the back side of the drum/hub. That will put the drum into the backing plate and the shoes. Bad idea. just remove the 15mm from the snout of the drum hub to achive the correct fit.
_________________
"What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: 'tis dearness only that gives everything its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as FREEDOM should not be highly rated."
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy,its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery.."

[68notch]

[flyinglow94]

No. Don't over think this, as you can see a lot of people have done this without shaving the inside. You are using a type 3 drum and backing plate. after you bolt everything up and go to mount the drum you will see why. The snout of the drum is the only piece that needs to be shaved for the nut on the axle.
_________________
"What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: 'tis dearness only that gives everything its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as FREEDOM should not be highly rated."
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy,its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery.."

[flyinglow94]

[68notch]

All finished a couple of months ago now and thought I would post my result. This pic was taken straight after lowering. It has settled a bit lower now and has a nice touch of negative camber.

It was also lowered a bit further front and back. Already has Bert3 drop spindles on the front so it just needed one outer tooth there.

In the end I have machined the 15mm off the wheel hub but I did do this as I had originally thought with 3mm off the back side and 12mm off the front side. It all worked out fine. No rubbing anywhere.

_________________
John

68 Aussie notch
2011 Citroen Berlingo

https://www.facebook.com/Fastacraft

RHD dash pad project http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=475227

[Marvel]

Just finished fitting short axles to my Type 34 so the Sprintstars don't rub. Everything is ok except the brake plates aren't clamped tight enough by the wheel bearing housing. What have others done to stop the annoying clonk. Add a couple of gaskets, machine the bearing housing or what?

[68notch]

[Marvel]

Yes I'm using early bearing housings and axles but not both from the same source. Are early brake plate thicker? AFAIK the early set-up doesn't use gaskets but I've added a couple to help it clamp up tight. Not ideal but better than it was.I'll be looking at adjusting the length of the bolts so the drum is located on the diameter not the thread.

[HenrikL]

What are early bearing housing? There are at least 3 different housings for short axles, 1950-57, 58-64 and 65-66.

Check this thread:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=422140

[68notch]

[Marvel]

Studying the drawings and sectioned drawings I'm fairly sure I've got the right combination of axles and caps. It does mention that the early brake plates are thicker and as I'm using late ones this could be why they don't clamp up tight. Anyone know the difference or have an early one to measure?

[pitargue]

Can anyone recommend a machine shop in/near San Jose, CA that can take 15mm off the end for a reasonable price?

I just came from http://victoryautomotivemachine.com/index.html, and they quoted me 2 hours at $150/hour because they have to figure out how to do this.

Then went to https://www.peninsulaautomotive.com/, and they said they can't do it and I should go to a machine shop. Of course, they can't recommend any.

At this rate, probably easier to to get the short hubs from ISP West.
https://www.vwispwest.com/GA-501581.html?p=c3E9aHVi

So, any machine shop recommendations from the Volks?

[W1K1]

My local shop did it in about 1/2 hour for a case of beer. In fact it took longer to go get the beers and come back to the shop.

If the machine shop doesn't know how to chuck a hub in the machine, and cut 15 mm off the end.... run, run far away


maybe try a local handyman page on facebook, there are lots of retired guys around here with metal working machines in their garages.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

[pitargue]

[pitargue]

Found a old style machine shop in Santa Clara, CA. Jay's Precision Machine, 1751 Grant St, Santa Clara, CA 95050.

Jay cut off 15mm on my type 3 hubs. Turn around: 1 day. Cost. $20.

If you have any machining needs, highly recommended. Jay is extremely friendly. If you have the time, Jay has lots of automotive related stories. I made the mistake about asking about the AS-41 case he had in the shop and what he was doing to it. Truly a blast from the past, just the kind of machine shop I used to remember way back when. 5 stars!