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F.Y.I. short Type 1 swing axle's in a type 3
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19typethree67
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

69SquareGuy wrote:
vic wrote:
Sweet, thanks, look like I have everything I need for this job, busy day tomorrow!


Did you get these Vic?

http://www.vwispwest.com/311501311.html


I got these very ones when I did the swap. They worked great but I will say that you should use some gasket sealer on the back side of the bearing cap. I converted to disc in the back but I had a couple small leaks here before I put some sealer on.
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vic
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually got some used ones I found off a 65 bug
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fredo_tj
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 2:12 pm    Post subject: Made the switch! Reply with quote

Made the axle switch and its working!...

next i'm going to lower it a little more and buy some bad ass fat tires to put them on...

Brm replicas 6.5 wide Evil or Very Mad ...

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Don Barker
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 1:06 am    Post subject: Short type I swing axles Reply with quote

My son changed his notchback to type I short swing axles. He used a type II bus nose cone and hockey stick and raised the trans 1-5/8" then drilled a new dimple in the hockey stick for the pointy shift coupler bolt. He's running 6" cookie cutters with a 4-lig to Porsche 5 adapter that's almost an inch thick. 205 tires just clear.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an FYI
Both my '65 Type 3 swingaxles have the 311 501 311 bearing covers.
So you really just need the short T1 axle and the swing axle tube housing for the swap on a 65
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone have a system for pulling the end castings off the tubes?
I would like to powdercoat the parts before I put the new trans back in and put the seamless swing axle seals on too.
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flat
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't have to pull the end castings to do the one piece boots. I let the boots marinate for 5 mins in kettle-hot water, then dry them out and spray with wd40 and using a 2 round rods (3/8" OD) for leverage slip them over the daisy flange. It's really easy. I put them on the way they are run (small diameter first); some guys say turn them inside out but I've never found the need.

Good luck, Lanner
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ballbag
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 2:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am still yet to do this.

Does anyone know if I pull the end castings and shorten the axle tubes, whether that would work, and how much would I need to shorten them?

It seems the axles are easier to come by (over here) rather than the axle tubes. I have a spare set of long tubes to try this on.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, shortening the tubes will not work. The 61-66 bug end casting is what is different. You can buy the end castings from CIP.
C26-501-152 - SWING AXLE TUBE BRG HOUSING WITH SHOCK MOUNT - BEETLE/GHIA 61-67 SHORT STYLE - SOLD LEFT AND RIGHT PAIR


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fredo_tj
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:19 pm    Post subject: so here is where i am... Reply with quote

5.5 brm replicas in front with 135/15 tires
6.5 brm replicas in the back with 215/15 tires

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(kinda old picture, now i have the brms with discbrakes in the front)

I HAVE A PROBLEM... its rubbing in the rear.. tires are rubbing in the inside with the bump support.. should i just cut that thing off?
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flyinglow94
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something like this? You might want to get short spacers before you start cutting things.

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fredo_tj
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Short spacers? Where do I put them in? If I put spacers in, the tire will rub the fender or wing idk what you guys call it lol I'm from tijuana Mexico ...

This is the part that its rubbing with the inside wall of the tire... (Circled in yellow)

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The lower bump its easy to get rid off just unscrewing it but the one circles is the one needs to go away...
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Page 4
http://vdubengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/WHEELFITMENTGUIDE1.pdf
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fredo_tj
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

W1K1 wrote:
Page 4
http://vdubengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/WHEELFITMENTGUIDE1.pdf


awesome!, its kinda different for my squareback but, ill try... thanks!...

ill post some pictures of the beginning and the results...
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This what I have done to add clearance and reduce this problem

Sides of the top shock mounts have been shaved back to give clearance to rims.
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sundance
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine.
Short axle.
Rear sizes 15 X 5.5's with 225/60/15's
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fredo_tj
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good stuff you guys! Thanks for the help... I just finished mine today, I don't think it rubs anymore but I have to roll it firts... I still have to patch the holes I cut but overall I'm happy with the content... I had to turn up one notch cause in Mexico we have a lot of speed bumps and mine was way to low... Here's a picture of the cut and the stance... I think it's the same stance as Sundance Fastback...


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry the pic's look like crap.. i just realized...
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monomanx
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I opened a new post about this same exact problem and was told to search this thread out.

I used type 1 short axles, the 311501311 bearing caps and the type 1 big spacer. I too have read that you need to remove .562 from the snout of the drum but it appears that I need to remove about .2 from the inside in order for the drum to nest back around the backing plate. I am using type 3 backing plates as well.
I am wondering if the little spacer that rests behind the bearing is not supposed to be used....that is about .150+ thick...???

Incidentally, what is the difference between 65-66 bearing caps and other bearing caps? I have 113 501 311, 311 501 311A and 311 501 311A caps. The earliest style is the one that would require the Slinger in the drum. Is the original poster of this thread referring to 65-66 TYPE 3 ONLY bearing caps>?


Here are shots of my fitup issue...note that I have NOT turned the .562 off yet. One other fun thing..we put the axles in and after I put the backing plates and bearing caps on, LO AND BEHOLD>>>the axle is bent. YAY!


Thanks for any help
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Jason Eden wrote:
HELP PL:EASE a few have already told me a few things but IM still lost. I can do what Im told but just having a hard time finding out the right thing to do. I have a type 1 short axle trans and I went to put my type 3 drums " 2 peice " with brakes and backing plates on. Everything seemed to work good untill I go to put the drum on, its out about 1/2 or 9/16 " some say " but then I read never to take material off the inside of the drum so how do I get the drum to move inward like I need?


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johny__utah
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Jim! Is there any way i can see a diifrent or closer look of that spacer from the first pic? One before the bearing inside the axle tube. I removed my drums, bearing cap and rear plates to swap my axles out. (long axles) and about ready to reassemble when i noticed a spacer inside my tube behind the bearing. Neeed to know how to face it because it spun during the axle removel. witch way does it face?. Hope this makes sense.. lol Thanks!
jim altemus wrote:
Jason Eden wrote:
If I just changed the bearing cover " i dont think it would do it for me " because right now the bearing is right at the end of the cover so I must have to change the spacer that is behind the bearing also. What you think? thanks


It could be your spacer, though I reused all those pieces from my car when I did the conversion. Here are a couple images of the area in question:

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If you somehow got your spacers backwards that might explain things, but then again you shouldn't be able to tighten down the bearing cap if you did.

Jim

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