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How do I take Speedometer out, apart?
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64vdub
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I definitely agree!! This should be a sticky.
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rpm750
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whats a good material to use to replace the burnt Turn Signal, Oil and Gen light?

As everyone has said, Awesome post!

Is there a good "How to" on Stock Fuel Cable Replacement?
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Colored noterbook insert tabs work well, but they are glossy and clear, so you should scuff them first with a kitchen scraper/sponge or very fine sandpaper. This way they look more like stock and you can see the light from off-center. Left clear, you may not notice the light is on as quickly.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

- Regarding it being a sticky, thanks for the compliment there. However, having so many stickies gets kind of overwhelming. Maybe there should be something like they have on the late model board, more of an "Index to interesting tech articles" sticky, with many articles listed therein. I see that the other thread I contributed to showing that late model speedometer being dismantled and milage reset is listed on that late model index sticky.

- Fuel cable replacement? That's one I've not messed with in years, and from what i remember when I did mess with it, it wasn't worth my effort to try to take it apart. I might tear into another one sometime though.

- And about the gels, (I've used both el-cheapo folders and just cut off the tabs, but I liked the clip-in Pendeflex hanging file folder tabs better) Phil is absolutely right about needing to opacifiy them. I forgot to do that when I fixed up and installed a 68 speedometer in my Baja, and immediately regetted it. Especially after I went and added LED bulbs. Eventually I took the speedo head out and reworked the gels, much nicer now! Here's a comparison, two "before" pics and one "after" I redid the gels. I think I used 1500 or maybe it was 2000 grit sandpaper to "de-clear" them.

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engineerscott
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding the gels - If you have a theatrical lighting supply store in your town they will sell lighting gels. Roscolux is a commonly sold brand, but there are others. These stores will normally carry gel samplers which are about 1" x 2" and have a couple of hundred individual gels of various colors in a small book form. Normally they will give you one of these samplers for free if you ask, if not they might sell it for $5 or so. In fact, you can order a gel sampler from StageSpot here: http://www.stagespot.com/product/GELSWATCH/Gel%20Swatch%20Book .

The nice thing about these gels is that they are made to go in 750W ~ 1000W+ theater lights so they are extremely temperature stable and lightfast. You will definitely find a gel sample that is very close (if not identical) in color to the original used by the factory and I seriously doubt that this material will fade any time soon. You should be able to cut several filters for your speedo from a single sample sheet.
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meredith murray
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^^

Yep lighting gels work great! If they can stand a 1000 watt light they can stand the light in the spedo.
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62_Maggiolino
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Glutamodo, those worm gears look new. Were they already in great shape, or did you find a source for new ones? (other than a donor speedo). I had to take one of mine out because it was making the speedo needle jump all over the place.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The worm gears were making the needle jump?? They shouldn't, as they turn at such a very slow rate they should not affect the needle. Usually it's gunky old grease on the input shaft that causes the noisy/bouncy speedometer syndrome. But I suppose if one of the worm gears seized in its bushings it could put enough tension on the input shaft to have the same effect.

Anyway, to answer your question - as far as I know, those are the original odometer drive gears. I used that speedometer for well over 100K miles myself, but when I first took it out to change the "gels" and reset the odometer to match the one I was previously using, I'm pretty certain I was the first person to crack the housing open.

-Andy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpm750 wrote:
Whats a good material to use to replace the burnt Turn Signal, Oil and Gen light?

As everyone has said, Awesome post!

Is there a good "How to" on Stock Fuel Cable Replacement?

I just went to of all places..........WALMART. Yep, walmart. I found a suitable gel using the see through colored file folder tabs. I added several layers to get the preferred amount of tint. So if you want the green or the red to be darker or lighter just add or leave off some layers.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I got some at Walmart before too.
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GLHTurbo
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

excellent write up, thank you.

Couple of questions:

Does anyone offer a replacement chrome ring (the one you pry off with the pocket knife), and rubber glass seal?

Does anyone offer a replacement clear needle?

The chrome ring on mine was brittle and it hairline cracked in a few spots.

Thanks!
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rgambord
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm also curious if anyone sells replacement springs and needles? I broke off the end of the spring, meaning that I had to set it tighter than normal. I also broke the needle in three places. :-/ Thanks guys.
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drpete
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rgambord wrote:
I'm also curious if anyone sells replacement springs and needles? I broke off the end of the spring, meaning that I had to set it tighter than normal. I also broke the needle in three places. :-/ Thanks guys.


Contact johnshenry here at thesamba. He runs Zawerks and has good info on parts and repair for speedos.
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bill may
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

use some card board box pieces to not scratch the face, and you can use 2 spoons (ones you eat with) , 180 degrees apart, to lever the needle off so you do not break it.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a plastic notbook cover for mine. It was a little heavier/darker than those tabs. However I have to take mine apart again as it is sticking now.
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crowe66
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe dumb questions but.....

what kind of grease to lube those worms gears, etc...

what sort of glue for the gels???
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the gears, well I've always liked moly wheel bearing grease (the bluish-black stuff) for anything that needs grease, but white lithium should work too. (white lithium actual grease, not that thin stuff in a spray can) For the plastic gels, I've used two-part epoxy. I tried super-glue once two, which worked, but be careful, that stuff can "run" and discolor the plastic.

-Andy
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6Kabrio7
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made my own wiring diagram today and changed my speedo first time..not quite the same as taking it apart but I changed the glass and bezel and cleaned it real good. I'm glad I know how to do that now.
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Itawayoflife
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, does anyone know exactly what part of the speedometer actually causes the obnoxious screaming?

I lubed my speedometer a few weeks back with some machine oil and all has been fine until this weekend. Doing 90+ MPH on Saturday night and "SHREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!" for the next 10 miles.

I'll take mine apart this week following the instructions shown in this thread, but I am just curious what parts to pay special attention to?
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really, there are only two points of rotation inside the speedometer head, the tiny little bushing that should not have any lubricant at all up inside where the magnet and cup are (polish this one, if anything) and then the input shaft bushings. It has to be either of those locations that is causing a rotational noise, and the input shaft bushings are the most likely culprit. Yes you do get contact as well from the worm drive gear that spins the odometer but that goes at just a fraction of speed compared to what the input shaft bushings are seeing. I'd clean up, polish then regrease there.

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