Parking brake lever pivot?

[blues90]

While dealing with the worn/ crumbing heater lever friction washers I noticed the e brake lever has side to side play. It looks like it's the left side and looks like the pin wore the welded plate hole. It seems like the pin moves free in the e brake yet I don't know if it rotates free enough and seems to have worn that plate. This tells me either the pin is not greased well or just over time the force on the pin elongates the plate hole the pin fits through.

The e brake works. is there a way or repair the plate hole? It seems like there is just enough room to fit a flat washer and a small screw to fix the slop or is this just something not to worry to much about? Or should I remove the lever or pin and grease it well to prevent any more wear?

[Bobnotch]

Depends. Does the pin move in the handbrake handle? Or is it rusted in place? You kind of need to know, before you can formulate a repair plan. I only say that, because IF the pin is rusted to the handle, you might not be able to get it to slide out (for shimming). If it is loose, then remove 1 of the snap rings, and slide the pin out of 1 side, and get a better look at the wear. Depending on how much room you have to play with, you might shim both sides of the handle, or just 1 side of the handle, and add another washer/shim to the outside (the worn side) to help stiffen it.
Or, you might just leave it alone, since it's working and correctly adjusted, and just use it as you have been. Since you have an AT car, it probably sees limited use anyway (mainly during tune up day). It's your call. Remember, it took 45+ years to get that sloppy, so it'll probably last as long as you'll be alive and driving (another 30+ years).
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[blues90]

[blues90]

The pivot pin moves what is worn is the pivot pin. It has a wide tapered groove worn in it. The bracket holes are fine. I removed the right side clip and pushed it to the left and once it goes just past the pins worn area yet not on the pins tapered end almost all the play is gone.

I can't seem to find just a pin . All I find is a EMPI kit . CIP1 has C24-113-711-341 says it's for 46-79 beetle or 56-74 Ghia. Aren't most e brake levers close to the same thing on beetles and Ghia's ?

[blues90]

I just ordered the pin from CIP1 should fit. Seems all I've been doing lately is fixing things that suddenly become an issue.

Been through the FI system. Runs good now.

Things sure did last long. I'm just getting tired of the constant repairing.

I doubt I'll ever have the funds for even a good used car or truck so I have to continue on.

Replaced the ignition switch and fixed the worn out horn contact ring by modding a crappy replacement one. And lubed the ign lock housing never realized the key was so stiff , you get used to things now I feel the key snap back on release have to get used to this. Replaced the window regulators now the windows have no issues. All sorts of little stuff as well as more involved repairs.

Dread the rear torsion bar tube bushings.

I had some of parts I bought long ago and some I had good spares so most of the repairs were just my 71 year old body labor.

The entire car has no rust at all . until 2012 it was perfect like new body wise then the idiot ran a red light and destroyed my front bumper and overrides the repairs were covered by the red light runner yet even though i knew them for 35 years they didn't do a great job so the hood gap was perfect not now then in 2015 some one backed out of a parking space and pushed in the left rear fender I pulled it out with a toilet plunger and have a replacement still hanging in the garage. See these things bother me so I ignore them except when I happen to look to close.

If I were younger and had the funds I'd replace the left rear fender that hangs on the wall and paint it and replace all the beading since the body shop ruined the front ones .I'd remove the front fenders and move the front walls a bit closer so the hood gap fit right again. I'm just not into doing this , sure it this were not my only transport I would take my time and fix it.

For now it's fixing little and bigger issues yet each one fixed makes it a better car. Like the rear engine mounts did.

[Bobnotch]

I hear ya. When I first got my Notch (Sept 99), I spent the first 4 months repairing rust, then another 2 to 3 months going thru the electrical system, then painting the car, then reassembling the car. All of that before I could even drive it. Fortunately, I had a spare pan that I rebuilt before hand that I dropped the body onto. That saved a bunch of time and money, since the brakes had already been gone thru, along with the steering box and ball joints. After I joined the 2 together, I started looking for IRS parts to redo the IRS conversion, as I originally used bug transmission mounts to hold up the engine. While it worked, it didn't give me that warm fuzzy feeling, and I wanted a better set up. That happened during the 1st year I drove it, and was gathering parts. Then once I had what I needed, it was time to finish the conversion I started the year before. Once that was done, it really made the car more fun to drive (didn't have to worry about the bug trans mount shearing the rubber off, and dropping the engine into the street ). Then we took it to Hershey PA for it's first Invasion. That was when I found out how tired the engine really was (a 73 bug engine that I converted to t-3 cooling that I bought in used but unknown condition in a large parts lot of VW parts). The thing is, I still have that engine in the same condition as it was when I pulled it out (but without the HE's). In 2006 I had MOFOCO build me a new engine based on an all aluminum case, that I was going to use to go to the 2006 Invasion with, but work and household appliances got in the way of going. In 07 I just drove it, and in 08 My dad pulled it to the 08 Invasion, and drove it, since I was driving my freshly rebuilt 71 Notch, and my wife and daughter took her 70 Fastback. My son and his wife took Rob's 65 type 3 Roadster, so we had 4 type 3s there.
But yes, while you might own it for a long time, things do wear out, and replacing some of it does make it that much nicer to drive. Needless to say, I have several vehicles to drive, and don't drive my Notch as much as I'd like, but I do drive it on occasion.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[blues90]

I got the friction washers today came from WolfsBurg West . They are for a beetle , they seem to be close to the same are the old ones , got 2 sets of 4 in case they are not as thick. My old ones from what I could tell were 3/16" thick . Tried all the hardware stores no one had anything large enough. I called ISP West yet no one was in the wear house yet the fellow said they were close to the beetle ones I got. No one else sells them.

( Got the friction washers done and new front floor/defrost cables today , Hope I never have to do that again. ) I wrote that story in my heater cable topic.

The E brake pin is coming from CIP1.

I know I need the seat rail slides and actually found the 73 T-3 seat release knobs and since it's a 3 point mount seat the knobs are late 72 /73 only , I think the seat rail plastic slides most site offer will work. I removed the seats years ago to have them recovered and didn't know the plastic guides existed and left the on the seats I do recall they were already falling off.

It's just little things. I don't move the seats often yet when i do pressing on a metal arm is difficult. So when I have the funds i'll get the rail slides and knobs. At least I can fix the heater controls and did get the cables for a super beetle so the right floor defrost flap works and get the play out of the e brake. I was surprised the pivot pin wore it must be softer than the metal welded brackets since they have no wear. Replacing those front floor defrost cables sounds like fun (yes lots of FUN). I did find the covers on the tar board where they have a connector like the rear seat wells have , Jim told me what to look for. At least the cable to the flap is not broken.

I have some cheap E brake rubber boot from Taiwan had tears so I just cleaned it and super glued the tears back , it's good enough considering how much places want for a well made one.