Propex heater exhaust/intake route

[MsTaboo]

Just got my new Propex heater and have started install.

What I have done is to remove the troublesome refrigerator (gonna get one of those nice electric frigs), and started building some shelves. The idea is to have space for a porta potty on the bottom, a shelf, space for TP etc, another shelf for the Propex on top just under the grilltop. The gas line from the removed frig becomes my supply to the Propex. The heated air would then be vented from the front of the cabinet into van.

I would like to use the existing intake/exhaust fixture from the frig. to route the combustion air for the Propex.

Everything I can think of says it should be ok.

Seems like an elegant solution, no new holes in the body!

My question is has anyone done this? Any reason why it might not be a good idea?
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[FNGRUVN]

The volume of exhaust coming from the Propex has to be much greater than the fridge. I'd be afraid the exhaust would try to reenter through the intake port. Hopefully I'm wrong. That would be a sweet setup.

[MsTaboo]

The reason I figured this might work is that the furnace on our little 16ft fiberglass trailer vents in a similar manner. The intake and exhaust vents are built into the same mounting plate, and are right next to each other.
That furnace puts out more BTUs than the Propex.

It seems that on a cold night the hot exhaust would disperse outward/upward and cold surrounding air would reach the combustion intake vent.

I haven't ran the Propex heater yet so I'm not sure about the velocity of exiting exhaust. If it were too feeble it might not disperse enough to clear the intake.

The furnace on the trailer vents with a steady stream.
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[westyventures]

While 'not recommended' by Propex UK, it should work fine. After all, their marine side-wall flue vent has the pipes one over the other separated my a 1/2" divider block. I'd be very interested in hearing how this works out, and of course seeing photos!

My only question is--where will the 'new electric fridge' go? Or did you mean one of the portable units?

[MsTaboo]

Ok here are some photos of work in progress.

The first photo shows the condition of the propane lines going to the refrigerator.
There's a long story behind this Syncro, but the short version is I bought this van in 07 from the original owner, van had 112k. We decided to sell for a variety of reasons (all wrong in retrospect!) and sold to a guy in Oregon.
Recently I was able to repurchase the van. (basically I paid a stupid fee to let this guy drive around in my van for a year )
Never sell your van if you love it!

Well since I got the van back I have found all kinds of hacks, like this business with the refrigerator. It worked find when I sold but apparently he couldn't get it to light and had someone look at it. When I got the van back there was a gas leak. Look at the photo. no wonder! Looks like the guy just jammed the frig back in

So anyway, I cleaned up that mess. Pull the damm frig and stuck it in storage. Now on to the Propex install.
First off I wanted to prove the concept of putting the Propex where the frig went. The two intake/exhaust lines are fed into the fixture which held the refrigerators in/out lines. I used a little alum. foil to make up the gap and wired the two lines together. You can't see in photo but there is a hold down clamp under which the wire is clamped. The whole setup is very sturdy.

Next I covered these with metal dryer vent ducting for additional heat shielding. This was also wired in place.

Next I built a shelf for the heater and did a temporary set up. I wanted just to see if the intake/exhaust setup would work.

And here is how it looks in "test bed config"

I'm happy to say it works
However there are some mods to the exhaust/intake that are necessary.
First I trimmed the intake cover to open up more air flow, works real good. I also added metal bug screens to both openings.

The other mod which will be necessary will be to cut a hole through the chrome cover plate. There is too much air restriction for the exhaust with the cover in place. For now this is how it looks, it works fine in this configuration.

One thing I'm concerned with is moisture collecting at the bottom of the hose loops. I might have to solder some drains into the lines. I might route the exhaust line straight down through the body to eliminate the exhaust restriction and not modify the vent cover. Problem here is the propane tank is directly below. Will take some careful cutting!

I'll post more photos as progress is made.
Cheers!
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[westyventures]

Looks good so far! Regarding the exhaust: what led you to say the chrome cover needs a hole? Did it shut down with it in place? It should be enough venting, I would think, as the marine fitting is similar in dimensions from pipe to plate.

One little question on the gas line: Did you use the 1/4" tubing fitting supplied with the heater? If not, you should be aware that the threads in the heater connection are not US NPT thread pitch--they are British std. While a US-NPT fitting appears to fit, it actually only engages one or two threads and could leak if not very well sealed. Just a caution, check and double check.

So what's the plan for the lower space?

[MsTaboo]

westyventures - The heater shut down with the chrome cover in place.

Yeah I used the 1/4 compression fitting for now, having a hard time finding the Euro thread fittings. I think it's kinda cheap of Propex to ship these heaters with only one fitting! So there is a RubeGoldburg contraption right now to enlarge to the 3/8 propane piping. All that gets upgraded to solid lines with flare fittings after I finalize the location.

Under the heater will be a Porta-Potty

And then a electric refrigerator that will sit behind passenger seat. Probably the 40 liter size Engel.

http://www.engelaustralia.com.au/cgi-bin/products.cgi?category=Chest%20Fridge%20/%20Freezer
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[westyventures]

[carterzest]

You guys need to slow down. You are making me jealeous.

If it is not enough to have Syncro envy, you just keep on improving that beautiful specimen that I had the fortune to park next to at the White Salmon GTG. I think of your van as my vans Strapping Big Brother and I am so glad you are getting it up to your stringent standards! Keep us updated. I still live vicariously through your posts!

Peace and serenety, but most of all, happy Warm Camping!
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[MsTaboo]

carterzest wrote: You guys need to slow down.

Never, I'm just getting started! Got a big pile of stuff to install!

Of course I'm supposed to be working on the CAD plans of our new house so we can break ground next spring. The only reason I'm getting away with working on the Syncro is we want to take a winter vacation. With gas prices so low and busy schedule next year, now is the time.

So here is what I ended up with: The outside,

the inside,

and where the heat emerges,

where the cold air return goes,

and behind the scenes.

False floor for cold air return.

My version of table leg support. This allows me to keep the table a little high so heat passes under.

And then this nifty setup the propane parts supplier sold me for extra fuel. No need for extraneous fittings inside.

I still need to modify the vent cover but need to get a new bi-metal hole saw to cut a clean hole.
All in all I'm quite happy with the set up. Love the Propex, a little loud but hey what price warmth?

Hey Jeffery, Hope all is well on the home front! I'm planning to write up the tale about the return of the Syncro you asked me for, but I'm waiting until I cool off about the hacks I've found! Cheers
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'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

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[westyventures]

[carterzest]

[MsTaboo]

Thanks carterzest, westyventures.

The idea was to leave the van as stock as possible. If I decide the heater vents through the refrigerator stock location isn't working I can always cut holes.
I don't want to mount the Propex in the usual location under the seat box though, that's where my tool box goes. I really like where the heater is now, a PITA to mount, but worth it!
If I do decide to change the setup I might think about a new vent through the body, to shorten the exhaust line. I would leave the combustion air intake where it's at and add a new exhaust port just below, and out the side.
I would need to find a stock looking port that could be rain shielded.
Or maybe in the future move the stock vent fixture to a new lower location, just opposite where the intake/exhaust lines drop down from heater. Then seal up/repaint stock location.

I'll see how it preforms on this up coming trip to the SW and post back.

Cheers!
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[Jon_slider]

> The heater shut down with the chrome cover in place.

Im wondering if removing the screens would solve that problem.

Beautiful work btw

[MarkWard]

I'd like a little more information on that propane tank adapter please.
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[markz2004]

[MsTaboo]

[MarkWard]

If you do a search, at least a hundred people have asked how to do this and at least as many answers. I think my fill valve is a little different, but I am interested in your adapter hose. Do you have a part number or manufacturer name? If you are an entrepenure, I bet you could sell at least 25 here on Samba. Thank you for the pictures. Seems like the easiest, cleanest solution. By the way, I would pay twice what you paid at $12. Regards.
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[MsTaboo]

I was talking to the local propane guy about some of the fittings I've seen here on TheSamba, and he shrugs his shoulders and says, why go to all that trouble?

Then he pulls these parts from his bins.

Sometimes it pays to go to the pros!
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'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

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[MarkWard]

My pro would not touch my tank let along come up with some free thinking. I have since been going to the quicki mart that sells propane as a side line. They seem happy to take my money for a fill. The propane distributor would not even consider sending my tank out for recertification. I have been by the local rv places too and basically if you can find something in their catalog they can order it. Not very knowledgable about anything based on experience. I'd say you were lucky to find someone knowledgeable and willing to assist you. I am going to print out your picture to drag along, but perhaps you can get the part number off your invoice and I can contact the company directly. Thank you for taking the time to reply. mark
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