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Big Blue's Back and slower than ever!! Called the Shop...
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jre
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Blue.....hate to hear that you are having problems with your rebuild. Hang in there and it will all come together for ya. BTW, I loved your video on your blog...big blue was purrin like a kitten and he will again.
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BigBlueVW.blogspot.com
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good call. I'll check that tonight.

Thanks.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jre wrote:
Big Blue.....hate to hear that you are having problems with your rebuild. Hang in there and it will all come together for ya. BTW, I loved your video on your blog...big blue was purrin like a kitten and he will again.


Thanks, my friend. We'll get it figured out.
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akscooter
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If he put compression shims in, then seems to me that anytime you add to the cylinder it lowers the compression and throws of your fuel ratio. also causing less compression. thus less power.. I'm curious how far he shimmed it. also has it gone thru its break in period and has the rings set?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An 009 timed correctly shouldn't affect your full throttle power, only your part throttle power and the responsiveness. I would go for giving the shop a call and letting them figure out what happened. It is their job to do so. Very likely the throttle cable adjustment as someone already mentioned.
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towd
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The work orde states replaced heads,, not P&C's or even rings.. but that they did reseal the cylinder to the case..

They put about 400 worth of parts at your cost ,, The rest is labor and they did a major screw up.. I would say they did not test drive the Bus..

AND there's this,, anytime you unhook fuel lines and reconect them,, there's a chance of dislodging crap,, and that plugging a carb..

bottom line 2200 bucks,, had you done your own work that would equal a new motor,, not a hi $$$ patch job. in fact 2200 bucks in a shop should have bought you a new motor ..

From the prices they charged you,, They must think there Damn good.
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garykohl2
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First make sure you are getting full throttle when you press the pedal like the other guy said. I can't tell you how many times I have had people bring their car in because "it has no power" only to find out there was to much slack in the throttle cable.
Next find out why they put shims on your motor. If it didn't have them before then it probably doesn't need them. All those shims are doing is lowering your compression which takes away power.
Also, check your timing.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So, my question is - could I have actually lost power by going to the stock exhaust or going to the .009?


This is the biggest question here. Minus one very important question...

Type IV or Type I engine --- BIG part is ---

What is your compression reading
What is your leak-down test?

Make sure you are over 90 on compression on all cylinders - and within 10% of each one...

100 100 100 90 is ok --- 80 110 110 100 is not

If thats fine...

Check your timing --- make sure you are making FULL advance around 28 degrees.

The mechanical advance CAN have an effect on acceleration - but NOT top speed ON FLATS - hills - different story.

Exhaust CAN have an effect - but not that BIG of an effect.

It could be a combination of factors. You mention the following changes
Head Work
Compression Shims
Distributor
Exhaust.

Enough negaive effect on all COULD cause you significant loss of power.

Confirm all operational parameters on each...

Compression check of 90+ on all cylinders
28 Total advance mechanical (vacuum advance is prefered).

Aside from that...hrm..... Confused
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
Quote:
So, my question is - could I have actually lost power by going to the stock exhaust or going to the .009?


This is the biggest question here. Minus one very important question...

Type IV or Type I engine --- BIG part is ---

What is your compression reading
What is your leak-down test?

Make sure you are over 90 on compression on all cylinders - and within 10% of each one...

100 100 100 90 is ok --- 80 110 110 100 is not

If thats fine...

Check your timing --- make sure you are making FULL advance around 28 degrees.

The mechanical advance CAN have an effect on acceleration - but NOT top speed ON FLATS - hills - different story.

Exhaust CAN have an effect - but not that BIG of an effect.

It could be a combination of factors. You mention the following changes
Head Work
Compression Shims
Distributor
Exhaust.

Enough negaive effect on all COULD cause you significant loss of power.

Confirm all operational parameters on each...

Compression check of 90+ on all cylinders
28 Total advance mechanical (vacuum advance is prefered).

Aside from that...hrm..... Confused


Ryan... read the thread eh? Razz Laughing Wink
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BigBlueVW.blogspot.com
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guys - thanks for all the suggestions. My wife banned me from the Samba last night as I had to pack for the holiday, so sorry I dropped off.

I'll do some testing on Sunday (if I get back in time) and talk to the shop on Monday.

I did test the throttle cable and it was set correctly.

The shims were 2mm shims and I see where that could take away from compression. I'll share what I find out when I test it.

Here's a little more info on the receipt I got from the place...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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'63 Bug "Little Blue"
'68 Bus "Big Blue"

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2mm would be .082", that is a lot of compression lost particularly if you have AMC heads with the raised sealing area. You usually want your piston to head clearance to be in the order of .040".
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tnpanscraper
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have an aftermarket oil filter kit? If not, you got ripped on the oil filter installation...
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BigBlueVW.blogspot.com
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tnpanscraper wrote:
Do you have an aftermarket oil filter kit? If not, you got ripped on the oil filter installation...


Yeah - there's an external oil filter and cooler that the PO put in (controled by a switch in the dash which turns a fan on). I'm not sure it does anything to actually cool the oil, but the block is tapped, so I had to leave it.

here's a picture of it:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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'63 Bug "Little Blue"
'68 Bus "Big Blue"

Find bus camping friends at http://VWCamperFamily.com/

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tnpanscraper
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool man.... Does it smoke(burn oil) when you accelerate?
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some pictures from when I stopped by and checked on the work:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
'56 Bug - no name yet
'63 Bug "Little Blue"
'68 Bus "Big Blue"

Find bus camping friends at http://VWCamperFamily.com/

A west coast VW bus camping adventure at: http://bigbluevw.com/

Interested in VW buses and have a Facebook account? Check out Big Blue's Fan page: http://www.facebook.com/bigbluevw
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tnpanscraper wrote:
Cool man.... Does it smoke(burn oil) when you accelerate?


The only thing that I smell since having it back it what I assume to be the coating/paint in the new muffler/exhaust. No oil burning. Never has burned oil.
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'63 Bug "Little Blue"
'68 Bus "Big Blue"

Find bus camping friends at http://VWCamperFamily.com/

A west coast VW bus camping adventure at: http://bigbluevw.com/

Interested in VW buses and have a Facebook account? Check out Big Blue's Fan page: http://www.facebook.com/bigbluevw
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tnpanscraper
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice heat exchangers... I could use some new ones also...
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tnpanscraper
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it needs a valve adjustment and shim removal... Maybe reset the timing... Of course that's been said...
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BigBlueVW.blogspot.com
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems that a compression test will give me the insight I need, huh?
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'63 Bug "Little Blue"
'68 Bus "Big Blue"

Find bus camping friends at http://VWCamperFamily.com/

A west coast VW bus camping adventure at: http://bigbluevw.com/

Interested in VW buses and have a Facebook account? Check out Big Blue's Fan page: http://www.facebook.com/bigbluevw
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tnpanscraper
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes....Good Luck...
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