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Green apple monster rebuild thread
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm trying to incorporate some recycled bits into the interior. I found a lot of oak 3"x4"x4' wood that was used to strap tubing to for semi transport. I've ripped them to 1/2x4 inch strips to trim out the bead boards I've made to replace the interior cards. I'll router some detail in there and make a sort of chair rail to tie the thing together. I also came across some copper Bus bars that I'll use as an accent. It'll go with the copper tubing I'm using for curtain rods.
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I also got my bench done. You can see how much wood came from ripping down the oak. It's a shame that this stuff gets burned when it's easily re-used.
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Lots to do but no time to do it.
Engine kit is here but I'm waiting my stuff to come back from the machine shop.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm waiting on parts right now. Christmas got in the way of any forward progress on the bus. I've aquired some new stuff like a 6 rib trans, westy bed hinges, starter, clutch...etc. I've broken the engine down and taken it to the machine shop. These are relatively cheap to rebuild 350.00 for a rebuild kit 250.00 for the machine work.

You'll see a whirlwind of work soon enough because I'm taking it to disney world in june. As you can see there's lots of crap to do before then.

If I could get some guarantee of not having my thread locked due to going off topic with all of the ford conversion stuff I'd flood the pics in. Unfortunately some folks get their panties in a bunch pretty easily.
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Chazbot
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't be bashful with the photos. Its a revival job on a bus that might have otherwise not survived. I don't think there is any sacrilege happening on this job. Nice metal work. Lots of fun doing that kind of work. I lose completed track of time when I'm into a project like that. Looking forward to seeing that come along.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using the radiator/evap from a 95 up ranger. This fits in between the frame rails like a glove. The center heater tube is gone to make room and this still has to be laid in at 15 degrees (forward edge up) to catch air. My air dam and scoop will hang @3 inches lower than the frame rails. I'll post pics when I get that far. I've been trying to keep the non vw relevent crap over on the shop talk forums. There's alot of water cooled hate over here. I didn't start with a bus worth the full tilt restore so I didn't think it mattered.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are your plans for the radiator? I like extra power as well, but I'm concerned about the looks of the finished product.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll need to use the low profile air cleaner that comes with the weber progressive kit. There's only 3 inches from carb to the top of the deck, and @1 inch on top of the valve cover.
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see^^^^^^^^^^ snug as it gets


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The sides of the engine are wide open and it should make for a maintanence friendly set-up.

I just finished the fuel tank swap to a two tap FI tank because this engine uses a return style mechanical pump. When done there won't be any ghetto hackery visible and my intentions will be to have it look like VW did all this work.
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4play
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would like to know about clerance on this moter, aircleaner to deck lid
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, here it is... The ford 2.3l. I'll only post the vw relevent parts of my conversion here because most of it will be pretty off topic. This lump runs as is and sounded healthy enough for an engine that sat for 15 years. It looks rough but that's how it'll stay until I have all the engine supports welded up. Then it'll get yanked back out broken down, rebuilt etc. etc...
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The place is a mess I just finished kicking the mustang II out the door and bad to bolt this together. The esslinger kit is an excellent peice of engineering. The only thing that may be a disadvantage is that it uses a 200mm beetle clutch. That will prove to be a weak link I'm sure.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a closet purist. I figured that If I'd convert something over then it might as well be something that would've been scrapped had I not come along.

Like experimental surguries performed on death row inmates...
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Daverham
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a hell of a lot of work... some folks might say not worth it, but I am always glad to see a bus revived instead of scrapped. Sometimes I feel like a sort of urchin... slowly crawling the world, finding old VWs and bringing them back to life, one at a time, maybe doing the universe some good. Maybe not.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres some detail of the inner fender repair that I didn't show on the passenger side.

I cut the bad stuff out (yup that's the interior you're seeing there)
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I cut another patch out of my roof clipping, there's still tons left as it started out 3ftx 4ft.
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I made a separate square to fill the rocker tube just for the simplicity of fitment. I felt a bit better about using the thicker steel here than the klockerholm patches because the doglegs will weld to this later.
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This is about a stock repair and covers what they sell a patch for. This will be covered up by a spat I'm making that'll smooth this area out and eliminate all these visible edges that catch salt. I intend on fashioning something that looks like the "mudflaps" that VW welded into the rear wheel arch area.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was pretty pitted and the outer structures that head down to the bumper mounts were gone. I added 1X1/8 strapping inside the tubes that run beside the engine lid. This gives some support back to the bumper. I sandblasted the whole works then sprayed it down with some chassis black (por 15). It's not pretty but it gave the added structure needed and it'll never be seen again. This is definitely being put together to presentable and driven. It'll be solid and safe, just probobly not as correct as some would like.
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2VWs1BMW
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good. Did you not replace the rear inner valence? I replaced mine since it was marginal..
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried taking pics of the passenger side dogleg inner but nothing shows up on camera. I'm in the middle of doing the drivers dogleg and I'll take a few more pics of it before I paint it with anything. This side's just as nasty as the other so you'll see what I went through.

I cut the dog leg off today but it'll be awhile before I put one on. I have to return this skin to bus depot and buy the complete dogleg. Imho if you have enough rust repair to do a skin you might as well buy the whole thing and save the headache.

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Everything's done in the back. All in and ready for mud.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the stuff I've been using
http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

ucp 970 matched the same color of the por 15 that I'd already been using. This stuff is almost half the cost of por15 and it goes on identically.

I'll have to take pics of the wheel well area. They do make a patch panel that fits in there but I just cut a peice to fit out of the big chunk of roof steel I had left over from putting the riviera hole in. It looks decent enugh but I do intend on having the outriggers and wheel wells smooth coated in rhino lining. The 1/4 build up of material should hide my booger welds and keep the area nice for decades to come.
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aliennetwork
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great bus!

Can you show what you did for this part (wheel well section)
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Thanks
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slowly running out of metal to toss on the green monster!
This valance is the best fitting part bar none. Slight grinding to make it work but other than that it was perfect as is. Any Klockerholm part that doesn't require severe hammer and dolly work is great in my book.
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I even found time to get the rest of the passenger side done
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One more dogleg, two cab corners, and one more battery tray. Then it's mud slinging time.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

more cut, grind, weld, repeat.
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As long as my under metal has been 80-90% there then I'm rolling with it. I'll patch what I need to but in the end it'll be covered with rhino-lining or some other high-build protective substance. The pitted stuff has all been grinded/wire wheeled then coated with chassis black. The chassis black is very simular to por 15 but @2/3 the cost. At this point I'm looking to save money wherever I can.
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As you can see there's about as much wrong with this side as there was with the other. It's nice to see things rust symetrically here in ohio.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From reading other build threads I found it may be better to just leave the rear light mounts in place.
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I'll flange the klockerholm corners to create a strong lap weld around the rings. The corners are both made wrong by the engine door in that they extend into the door area 1/2 inch before the 90 degree break. This part will need to be cut off and just but welded.

The rear valance panel is spot on and needs no modifications out of the box, by far the best peice I've gotten.

The Klockerholm battery tray fit well enough although I wish it were as thick as the vw peice I'm using on the other side.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So far I've spent as much on patch panels as most west coaster's pay for their entire bus.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here's a good side shot. It'll look a little less low rider-ish when I get the new tires on it but overall I like the look.
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update and edit

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settled for a 205/75/15 michelin x-radial. After re-evaluating things I thought it'd be counter productive to do a bunch of sound deadening work just to toss knobby tires under it. These are 27 inches tall and should bring my cruising rpm down a bit. On the positive side these clear nicely without any fender trimming or suspension work.
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Last edited by chazz79 on Sun Aug 16, 2009 2:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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