what is 1.9 running temp range?

[sgtpepper]

I've been searching and haven't found anything, so if this thread's been done, let me know where to find it...

My coolant system has no leaks (recently replaced bleeder valve, H connector, water pump, several hoses, pressure tested it, etc.) and I have a new radiator and new radiator fan (whew!). Thus, I was surprised to find that my temperature gauge red light blinks after 15 minutes or so of driving (as soon as it warms up to normal running temp, which for me has been one needle width above the light). I know that these gauges are fickle, so tomorrow I'm going to use my friend's IR gun and see what the engine temp. is, to know if I'm actually overheating. I replaced the temp. sender and put on a new connector on the corresponding wire, but it still does the same thing. Anyhow, what I want to know is,

What is the range of temperatures my 1.9 wbx should be running at? where should I point that gun?

and if the engine isn't overheating, then what do I do about that annoying, blinking, red-eyed cyclops?

thanks.
_________________
1984 1.9L manual Vanagon (No A/C) "Sgt. Pepper"

[morymob]

Remove plug from topof tank with press cap and short with a paper clip etc and if goes out either sensor or wiring problm. Can try removing sensor and clean the 2 metal rods sticking down as my driver has to be cleaned every 2 yrs or so. Needle should stay close to or in led area, varies due toage,cond of each vehicle.

[AtlasShrugged]

I check the temp at the thermostat housing, should be close to 188-190, depending on the range of the thermostat

[MrPolak]

If your coolant level sensor is disconnected, or bad, or both, your LED will blink like mad and temp gauge will max out until you take care of the problem.

[ftp2leta]

Hi, i started i write up on that subject 2 years ago or so, i will copy it here so it stays here on the Samba.

The only thing you need to remember is the 85 seem like a slightly bizarre year, first the 85 often as that strange blinking problem, mostly seen in the morning and can last up to 15-30 minutes.

Second, when i do a Subi conversion on 85, i can use the stock RPM gauge, but ONLY on 85.

To solve that blinking problem i finally swap the console /cluster electronic board for a new one bought at VW. This board went onto a almost new cluster.

Some time later i swap back the cluster for fun, the blinking came back!

Anyway, at that time i did the following write up so if you have nothing to do.... well, read it.

Some of it make sense, some i'm not sure

Ben

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Since my Red van coolant level/high temp light (the one behind the temps
needle in the cluster) did blink for ever this morning, i had to find the
truth about it... No, coolant level was find and temp also. So i had (I
thought so)a coolant relay problem, everytime this happen, i was humid outside.

Anyway, we did sone heavy testing this morning on my van and on an 87 to
find out everything about that scary light.

Here it is:

That light as a few function on all year and not only 86+.

First, this light will blink when you put the key ON, even if the engine is
not working, it as nothing to do with the engine working or not, nothing!

Now, mine was blinking for ever, temp needle was normal.

So here is the short story for now, a web page will follow when i have time:

-The light and the temp needle are in someway related

-The light will blink for 2 reasons, first if you have no coolant in the expension tank and the
second, to show you that the temp needle is to hight, and that, on all years.

-On 85 and below, if you miss coolant in the EXPENSION tank the light will
blink and the temp needle will rise like crazy, even if the engine is still
ok, on 86 +, only the light will blink but the needle will stay normal.

-The relay! on all van we have a coolant level relay, yes, i said level, and
this one as nothing to do with anything else than coolant level! when the
level is low, the relay go on and rise the temp needle and blinking ligh go
ON, if you unplug the collant level sender wire, it will also rise (it take
about 3 second). Like i said, the neelde will only rise on 85- van. I you
remove the relay, or this one is defective, you will never know nothing, the
coolant light will blink at start up (this fonction is into the cluster!)
and the temp will operated normally. To be sure that the relay is good,
unplug the wire on the coolant level sender located on the expension tank.
Of course, the coolant level sender could also be defective!!!

-Now, if you unplug the temp sender on the engine and ground this one to the
engine or any metal part, blinking light gos ON and temp goes up like crazy.
That is 2 different thing but they look the same! If unplug, not grounded, it will simply
not move (85 and less)

-Now, in my case, i did some testing, relay was replace or not even on the
van and i still had the problem??? when the ignition was ON, the light was
blinking slowly and that from 5 to 15 second it staid ON... this has NOTHING
to do with any sender, gauge, relay or wire... only the cluster was the
problem, imbeded in that one is a small circuit, the check circuit... this
one was BAD!!! i had another cluster and the problem went away!!!

So, lets go deaper! if the light blink at start up and that for a long time
and/or forever, the cluster could be the problem because if you had a low
coolant level situation, the needle would rise crazy on 85 and less and on
86 + you could also have a coolant level problem.

If the light blink and the temp needle rise like crazy, you may have a short
on the temp sender or/and the coolant level sender on 85 and less!!!!!
frigging crazy but true! but you may or not know that the relay is working!
on 85 and less, you know!

Shit, lets call that light the craSY light!!!!

I'm lost myself now!

How to be sure of anything now! well, if the light blink at start up you
know the light is good,,, yeaaaaaaaa! if the needle move, yeaaaaaaa again!

If it goes off after 5 second or so, yeaaaa again! But if it goes ON wile on
the road! well, mostly you have a coolant /temp problem, well, it was design
for that matter... but!

So, the relay is ONLY for telling you that the coolant level is low, but! if
it's dead, you will never know, bad! But the rest may still work fine!

To somewhat prevent all that crap... you should replace the #42 or 43 relay,
replace the coolant level sender in the expension tank and why not, the
coolant temp sender. Make sure the wire to this one is ok.

Part 2, well, there is no part 2, at least for now. I have to put that info
on a web page for now and reflect... i know i'm forgeting some stuff, but
i'm not sure what... crazy light!

So, in any case, if the needle for at the fully hot position and the light blink, you must
have a short somewhere.
_________________
Working with rust, grease, dirt and dust is a sad truth.
------------------------------------------------------
FI part for sale: http://www.benplace.com/parts_sale1.htm
My site: http://www.benplace.com/vw2.htm
Subi conversion: http://www.benplace.com/vanaru_eng.htm
Youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/ftp2leta

[sgtpepper]

Thanks for the replys, guys.
I have a new coolant temp sender, and the level sensor is working fine, so that's not the problem.
I borowed my friend's IR gun and my engine runs between 197 and 220 deg. farenheit., as the rad fan comes on and causes it to vary. So, My engine is running a little hot, according to Atlasshrugged's numbers. The only thing I haven't looked at so far is the thermostat - so here goes. I noticed Van Cafe (and Busdepot) sell a low-temp (80 degree C) T-stat, as opposed to the stock 87 degree 'stat. Is it good to run your engine that cool? does anyone have experience with the lower temp (80 deg.) Thermostat? I've searched around, and it seems like most people use the stock 87 deg. C. one.

Thanks,
_________________
1984 1.9L manual Vanagon (No A/C) "Sgt. Pepper"

[levi]

You could go with a lower temp radiator fan switch, but I don't think going with a lower temp stat is a good idea.
Since you have a new rad you should have more than enough cooling capability, might want to check the t-stat in a pot of water to make sure it's opening when it should.
_________________
One of these days I'm gonna settle down,
but till I do I won't be hangin round.
Going down that long lonesome highway,
gonna see life my way

https://youtu.be/cSrL0BXsO40

[sgtpepper]

Thanks for the help - I just ordered a low temp fan switch on your advice. Out of curiosity, have you heard of someone using an 80 deg. T-stat that caused them trouble? (i.e. why?) I had a hunch that it would be too cold with the 80 deg. t-stat, but I don't know how cold "too cold" is. Just wondering how/ what you know about the stat that caused you not to use it and favor the stock stat.
_________________
1984 1.9L manual Vanagon (No A/C) "Sgt. Pepper"

[levi]

The fuel injection system is set-up to run with that 87 degree t-stat, so if you run the lower temp stat I believe the too-cool temps would cause it to run rich all the time.
If you have a problem in the system that's causing it to run too hot, you'd be best off taking care of that instead of trying to short cut it with a low temp stat.
_________________
One of these days I'm gonna settle down,
but till I do I won't be hangin round.
Going down that long lonesome highway,
gonna see life my way

https://youtu.be/cSrL0BXsO40

[sgtpepper]

good call. I always wondered why you don't run an engine too cool. now I know.
Thanks for the info!
we'll see if this new t-stat is the missing link. I sure hope so.
_________________
1984 1.9L manual Vanagon (No A/C) "Sgt. Pepper"