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71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up
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Bug53
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 1:11 am    Post subject: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

I am planning on buying a 71 or 72 1600 Beetle and plan on doing some mild street performance mods.
I am wondering what you folks are using for a good tune-able carb / manifold kit to use with dual port heads. For now the case and pistons will remain stock but may go up a size or two.
I also plan on installing an exhaust system on it probably from EMPI and possibly a different distributor.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Any shared experience would be appreciated.

Thanks BUG53
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 7:01 am    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

I would study and do home work prior to your modifications. Their is plenty of knowledge here and most of us have been there done that. Obtain manuals. Then let us know what your car will be used for.
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 7:19 am    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

Get the car first. Then we can see how badly the PO may have screwed it up and figure out how to make it better.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 9:19 am    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

You may want to take a look in the Performance/Engines/Transmissions forum. There are documented engine builds there. While most are for larger than stock displacement engines, here is one I found specifically for a 1600DP engine:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993&start=181
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

While the displacement is still 1600 (1585cc) it is far from stock. But maybe it will give you some ideas.
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Bug53
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 4:08 pm    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

Q-Dog wrote:
Get the car first. Then we can see how badly the PO may have screwed it up and figure out how to make it better.


Car is under my roof.
68 Type 1.
The engine is out of a 1972 super beetle.
Heat riser tube is rotted through and repaired with tin and three hose clamps ( WTH! fire hazard or what?) Solex 34pict3, 009 distributor so needless to say it's got idle problems.

I wish something simple and reliable such as the old Holley Bug Spray still existed in the new market but it doesn't.

So do I buy a stock manifold for now and replace the distributor with a vacuum / mechanical advance unit and do it all again later ....... or ..... do I find a reliable carburetor that will suit my needs and go with the matching manifold now.

I am installing an extractor exhaust when it arrives and would like to do this all together in one shot.

Will simply re-jetting the 34pict3 with the proper distributor suit my needs?
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

Get a set of Kadron carbs. You will need to install a pressure reducing regulator so that they do not overwhelm the needle valves. Also, get a shop (with knowledge) bore out the vacuum port for the distributor. Keep your regular ignition system but get a 034 clone distributor, and a Pertronix coil. Get a header exhaust system go have fun!

If you want to go a step further, some new 40mm intake valve heads make a great improvement.

Have fun! Don’t over rev it, if it is a stock crank.
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Bug53
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 9:19 pm    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
Get a set of Kadron carbs. You will need to install a pressure reducing regulator so that they do not overwhelm the needle valves. Also, get a shop (with knowledge) bore out the vacuum port for the distributor. Keep your regular ignition system but get a 034 clone distributor, and a Pertronix coil. Get a header exhaust system go have fun!

If you want to go a step further, some new 40mm intake valve heads make a great improvement.

Have fun! Don’t over rev it, if it is a stock crank.


Single carb.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 11:08 pm    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

Bug53 wrote:
VW_Jimbo wrote:
Get a set of Kadron carbs. You will need to install a pressure reducing regulator so that they do not overwhelm the needle valves. Also, get a shop (with knowledge) bore out the vacuum port for the distributor. Keep your regular ignition system but get a 034 clone distributor, and a Pertronix coil. Get a header exhaust system go have fun!

If you want to go a step further, some new 40mm intake valve heads make a great improvement.

Have fun! Don’t over rev it, if it is a stock crank.


Single carb.


Dual carbs! “Performance” and “single carb” are antonyms.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

TDCTDI wrote:
Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look.


67rustavenger wrote:
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Smile
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Michael Ambrozik
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2021 10:14 am    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

This is on the cheap and if you don't match the top and bottom end your just going to have a big paper weight. Do it right and build the right engine. Building a 1600 (1585) is going to cost the same as a 1915, Build it right.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2021 10:41 am    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

Michael Ambrozik wrote:
This is on the cheap and if you don't match the top and bottom end your just going to have a big paper weight. Do it right and build the right engine. Building a 1600 (1585) is going to cost the same as a 1915, Build it right.


This is not true. I know first hand the cost differences between the 2 points. The 1600 will be far cheaper. The machining costs to properly build them is the separation in engine cost.

BUT......the 1600 will not tear the transmission apart, nor will it overwhelm the stock transmission or braking systems. The 1915 will need a better built transmission, so add another $1500 to the project, better clutch package - so add another $300 plus, better braking up front - add another $500.

A built up 1600 is a fun street driving car. If you did anything extra to it, I would get a counter weighted forged crank shaft for it. You could then get up into the high 5000 rpms without having to worry about wobbling out the case.

The biggest issue I can see is after you get in this and drive it. After the first good pull. “Man, I wonder how much faster I can go with better engine?” That’s it, that is the sound of your money flowing out of your bank account like water.

Get a 1600. Add some “go faster” stuff to it and have fun! Bigger just means more money and more expensive speeding tickets. And traffic school is not cheap or fun!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

TDCTDI wrote:
Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look.


67rustavenger wrote:
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Smile
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Bug53
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2021 6:57 pm    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
Michael Ambrozik wrote:
This is on the cheap and if you don't match the top and bottom end your just going to have a big paper weight. Do it right and build the right engine. Building a 1600 (1585) is going to cost the same as a 1915, Build it right.


This is not true. I know first hand the cost differences between the 2 points. The 1600 will be far cheaper. The machining costs to properly build them is the separation in engine cost.

BUT......the 1600 will not tear the transmission apart, nor will it overwhelm the stock transmission or braking systems. The 1915 will need a better built transmission, so add another $1500 to the project, better clutch package - so add another $300 plus, better braking up front - add another $500.

A built up 1600 is a fun street driving car. If you did anything extra to it, I would get a counter weighted forged crank shaft for it. You could then get up into the high 5000 rpms without having to worry about wobbling out the case.

The biggest issue I can see is after you get in this and drive it. After the first good pull. “Man, I wonder how much faster I can go with better engine?” That’s it, that is the sound of your money flowing out of your bank account like water.

Get a 1600. Add some “go faster” stuff to it and have fun! Bigger just means more money and more expensive speeding tickets. And traffic school is not cheap or fun!


That's exactly what I'm planning on doing. I took the comment with a grain of salt. I was a gear head 50 years ago. Now I'm a fun head.
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Bug53
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2021 7:03 pm    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
Michael Ambrozik wrote:
This is on the cheap and if you don't match the top and bottom end your just going to have a big paper weight. Do it right and build the right engine. Building a 1600 (1585) is going to cost the same as a 1915, Build it right.


This is not true. I know first hand the cost differences between the 2 points. The 1600 will be far cheaper. The machining costs to properly build them is the separation in engine cost.

BUT......the 1600 will not tear the transmission apart, nor will it overwhelm the stock transmission or braking systems. The 1915 will need a better built transmission, so add another $1500 to the project, better clutch package - so add another $300 plus, better braking up front - add another $500.

A built up 1600 is a fun street driving car. If you did anything extra to it, I would get a counter weighted forged crank shaft for it. You could then get up into the high 5000 rpms without having to worry about wobbling out the case.

The biggest issue I can see is after you get in this and drive it. After the first good pull. “Man, I wonder how much faster I can go with better engine?” That’s it, that is the sound of your money flowing out of your bank account like water.

Get a 1600. Add some “go faster” stuff to it and have fun! Bigger just means more money and more expensive speeding tickets. And traffic school is not cheap or fun!


That's exactly what I'm planning on doing. I took the comment with a grain of salt. I was a gear head 50 years ago. Now I'm a fun head. If I get bored over the winter I'll do some porting and polishing on the heads, put a mild cam in it, and lighten and balance the flywheel / crank assembly.
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Bug53
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2021 7:17 pm    Post subject: Re: 71, 72 1600 Type1 Dual Port Best Carb Set-up Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
Michael Ambrozik wrote:
This is on the cheap and if you don't match the top and bottom end your just going to have a big paper weight. Do it right and build the right engine. Building a 1600 (1585) is going to cost the same as a 1915, Build it right.


This is not true. I know first hand the cost differences between the 2 points. The 1600 will be far cheaper. The machining costs to properly build them is the separation in engine cost.

BUT......the 1600 will not tear the transmission apart, nor will it overwhelm the stock transmission or braking systems. The 1915 will need a better built transmission, so add another $1500 to the project, better clutch package - so add another $300 plus, better braking up front - add another $500.

A built up 1600 is a fun street driving car. If you did anything extra to it, I would get a counter weighted forged crank shaft for it. You could then get up into the high 5000 rpms without having to worry about wobbling out the case.

The biggest issue I can see is after you get in this and drive it. After the first good pull. “Man, I wonder how much faster I can go with better engine?” That’s it, that is the sound of your money flowing out of your bank account like water.

Get a 1600. Add some “go faster” stuff to it and have fun! Bigger just means more money and more expensive speeding tickets. And traffic school is not cheap or fun!


That's exactly what I'm planning on doing. I took the comment with a grain of salt. I was a gear head 50 years ago. Now I'm a fun head. If I get bored over the winter I'll do some porting and polishing on the heads, put a mild cam in it, and lighten and balance the flywheel / crank assembly.
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