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Derek Cobb Annoying
Joined: March 11, 2004 Posts: 2565
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Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Shorter springs naturally have a higher spring rate. Your ball joints could very well be binding as well, but with drop spindles I doubt they are.
Stock torsion bearings might be better than urethane bushings if you're running those.
if it is simply too much spring rate, that opens up a whole 'nuther can of worms |
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510DUB Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2013 Posts: 1 Location: Australia
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Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 3:25 pm Post subject: front beam problems |
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Not sure if i am posting in the right spot. Have used this site to help me with alot i have done to my 1970 model bug. I am having a few troubles with the front being really stiff. I have welded in adjusters and shortened the front 4 inches, But when i put the adjusters in i gave them an extra 10mm of turn so i could go even lower. But now i am sure that this must be just binding them up, There for making the front really stiff. I have also jacked it up and loosened the adjusters of, than lowered onto jack stands so both top and bottom are not fighting each other and tightened them back up. Still did not help. I also am running 2.5inch drop spindles. so i am looking at just getting another beam and starting again.
Also having trouble with getting a good turning circle. have not removed the steering arm damper which is restricting turn. but i am running stock wheels and tyres. The tyres are hitting the inside wheel tubs anyway. if i go to another 4 inch beam, and remove steering arm damper with a lower profile tyre. will i have full turn without rubbing anywhere. i am only looking at having the front sill 80 mm of the ground if that. |
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Fordman49 Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2011 Posts: 209 Location: Indiana
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Quick question...
I am getting an axle narrowed and adjusters installed for my '72. Without drop spindles is 4" narrowed too much? I will be getting drop spindles when money allows, but at the same time I would rather get the axle done now rather than have it worked on twice....
Advice is greatly appreciated!!! |
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gimpy60 Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2007 Posts: 668 Location: Just down the road
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Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:21 am Post subject: |
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when you guys morph a beam with through rods (I ain't) what holds the lateral thrust on them? do you drill & use the grub screws or what? there is no thrust bearings in there, so what gives? _________________ How the hell ya spost ta fix it, ya don't even know how it works boy |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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probably till the spindles hit each other. if it is light you may only need 1 set of springs. you can use a through bar or the spring and leave out the ajuster grub screw so the ajuster can rotate.(the springs tie the arms togeather and hold the on.)good luck |
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Square73 Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008 Posts: 246 Location: Ohio
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Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 5:26 am Post subject: |
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Still trying to find out how narrow you can go. There won't be a body to get in the way, I don't care if it will roll over easily, I just want to know how far one can be narrowed.
Thanks _________________ There's not a pill you can take. There's not a class you can go to. Stupid is fo-evah. Ron White |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:47 am Post subject: |
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just remember that a narrow 4 wheeler likes to fall over go boom.not very stable.get a bike !! offroad cars go wider for that reason. |
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Square73 Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008 Posts: 246 Location: Ohio
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:23 am Post subject: |
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Any opinions on what the maximum amount you can shorten a beam ? I'd like to make a buggy to run around on the narrow paths in my woods. I'll fab up a frame, so no concerns about body etc.
Thanks, _________________ There's not a pill you can take. There's not a class you can go to. Stupid is fo-evah. Ron White |
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Joey Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2005 Posts: 5366 Location: Nova Scotia - Canada
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:45 am Post subject: |
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AutoLuxLexES wrote: |
ok, i didnt know that, but then again, i haven't done this yet and seen all the car thoroughly through.
but shortening of the torsion arms when narrowing still increases stiffness correct?
Charley |
You shorten the torsion leaves not the arms.
Correct, narrowing increases stiffness. _________________ Joey
‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle |
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AutoLuxLexES Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2010 Posts: 65 Location: In the desert somewhere..
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:42 am Post subject: |
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ok, i didnt know that, but then again, i haven't done this yet and seen all the car thoroughly through.
but shortening of the torsion arms when narrowing still increases stiffness correct?
Charley |
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Duane Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2004 Posts: 345
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Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:27 pm Post subject: |
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AutoLuxLexES wrote: |
does the beam ends where the torsion arms go also have grub screws?
sorry for the newb question. i already understand the concept of narrowing and installing adjusters. i dont think the torsion arms have grub screws because the torsion arms wouldnt be able to move, with that said, shortening of the torsion bars should also increase stiffness when narrowing the beam.
Charley
edit, ok just saw the pic above, no more grub screws, so shortening the torsion bars should increase stiffness. |
yes the torsion arms have grub screws also, thats what keeps them from sliding off the trosion springs and why you will need to redrill after shortening them. |
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AutoLuxLexES Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2010 Posts: 65 Location: In the desert somewhere..
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Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:56 pm Post subject: |
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does the beam ends where the torsion arms go also have grub screws?
sorry for the newb question. i already understand the concept of narrowing and installing adjusters. i dont think the torsion arms have grub screws because the torsion arms wouldnt be able to move, with that said, shortening of the torsion bars should also increase stiffness when narrowing the beam.
Charley
edit, ok just saw the pic above, no more grub screws, so shortening the torsion bars should increase stiffness. |
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Duane Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2004 Posts: 345
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Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:17 am Post subject: |
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ashman40 wrote: |
Normally people install thicker diameter sway bars to improve handling. Thicker bars are less flexible.
Shorter bars of the same thickness are also less flexible. So the more you narrow the front, the thinner the sway bar should get to maintain the same handling.
Would it be better to shorten a stock diameter sway bar and get the increased "stiffness" from the cut and the shortening... is this enough to act like a thicker sway bar on a normal width front end? Not many thickness choices out there.
I added a 3/4" sway bar w/ urethane bushing to my stock width front end... noticeably stiffer/bumpier. I don think I'd want to use it cut down for a narrower beam... it'd be an even bumpier ride. |
I'll be cutting and narrowing my stock bar next month and reinstalling, and for a 4" beam too. I'll post back and report my findings. |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15987 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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Normally people install thicker diameter sway bars to improve handling. Thicker bars are less flexible.
Shorter bars of the same thickness are also less flexible. So the more you narrow the front, the thinner the sway bar should get to maintain the same handling.
Would it be better to shorten a stock diameter sway bar and get the increased "stiffness" from the cut and the shortening... is this enough to act like a thicker sway bar on a normal width front end? Not many thickness choices out there.
I added a 3/4" sway bar w/ urethane bushing to my stock width front end... noticeably stiffer/bumpier. I don think I'd want to use it cut down for a narrower beam... it'd be an even bumpier ride. _________________ AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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thewreckingsoul Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2005 Posts: 393
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Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 11:27 am Post subject: |
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it does make them stiffer but it is still functional _________________ Ad
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 8:46 am Post subject: |
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you can sleave them if you like. but yes they will be less flexiable.but that is because you remover part of it. and is that what you want any way??stiffer,less roll. |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15987 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:25 am Post subject: |
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I thought sway bars are spring steel? If you cut and weld them in the middle won't you end up with a less flexible sway bar? Assuming cut/weld is what you were implying? _________________ AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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thewreckingsoul Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2005 Posts: 393
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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twiggyzappa wrote: |
I've got a general idea how how to do this myself. But my main question is what to do about the sway bar if the beam is narrowed more than two in.? Most retailers only sale them for a 2" narrowed beam. |
get the heavy duty one and narrow it. its much easier with a tig. _________________ Ad
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twiggyzappa Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2009 Posts: 52 Location: big spring tx
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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I've got a general idea how how to do this myself. But my main question is what to do about the sway bar if the beam is narrowed more than two in.? Most retailers only sale them for a 2" narrowed beam. |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:49 pm Post subject: |
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ok my eyes cant digitize the photo so I can turn it and see the screw that isant shown in the pic.but I would of seen it in my hand. I presume this is so you can position it so it isant hanging down under the car looking like crap. or for on a raised beam so it isant sofar up you cant get to it to ajust it.( I cant hardly get to mine in my bug ( top one ,somebody else did it before I got the car. |
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