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How to Narrow your own Beam !!!
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Derek Cobb
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shorter springs naturally have a higher spring rate. Your ball joints could very well be binding as well, but with drop spindles I doubt they are.

Stock torsion bearings might be better than urethane bushings if you're running those.

if it is simply too much spring rate, that opens up a whole 'nuther can of worms
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510DUB
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 3:25 pm    Post subject: front beam problems Reply with quote

Not sure if i am posting in the right spot. Have used this site to help me with alot i have done to my 1970 model bug. I am having a few troubles with the front being really stiff. I have welded in adjusters and shortened the front 4 inches, But when i put the adjusters in i gave them an extra 10mm of turn so i could go even lower. But now i am sure that this must be just binding them up, There for making the front really stiff. I have also jacked it up and loosened the adjusters of, than lowered onto jack stands so both top and bottom are not fighting each other and tightened them back up. Still did not help. I also am running 2.5inch drop spindles. so i am looking at just getting another beam and starting again.

Also having trouble with getting a good turning circle. have not removed the steering arm damper which is restricting turn. but i am running stock wheels and tyres. The tyres are hitting the inside wheel tubs anyway. if i go to another 4 inch beam, and remove steering arm damper with a lower profile tyre. will i have full turn without rubbing anywhere. i am only looking at having the front sill 80 mm of the ground if that.
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Fordman49
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick question...

I am getting an axle narrowed and adjusters installed for my '72. Without drop spindles is 4" narrowed too much? I will be getting drop spindles when money allows, but at the same time I would rather get the axle done now rather than have it worked on twice....

Advice is greatly appreciated!!!
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gimpy60
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

when you guys morph a beam with through rods (I ain't) what holds the lateral thrust on them? do you drill & use the grub screws or what? there is no thrust bearings in there, so what gives?
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

probably till the spindles hit each other. if it is light you may only need 1 set of springs. you can use a through bar or the spring and leave out the ajuster grub screw so the ajuster can rotate.(the springs tie the arms togeather and hold the on.)good luck
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Square73
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 5:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still trying to find out how narrow you can go. There won't be a body to get in the way, I don't care if it will roll over easily, I just want to know how far one can be narrowed.

Thanks
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just remember that a narrow 4 wheeler likes to fall over go boom.not very stable.get a bike !! offroad cars go wider for that reason.
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Square73
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any opinions on what the maximum amount you can shorten a beam ? I'd like to make a buggy to run around on the narrow paths in my woods. I'll fab up a frame, so no concerns about body etc.

Thanks,
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Joey
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AutoLuxLexES wrote:
ok, i didnt know that, but then again, i haven't done this yet and seen all the car thoroughly through.
but shortening of the torsion arms when narrowing still increases stiffness correct?

Charley


You shorten the torsion leaves not the arms.

Correct, narrowing increases stiffness.
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AutoLuxLexES
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, i didnt know that, but then again, i haven't done this yet and seen all the car thoroughly through.
but shortening of the torsion arms when narrowing still increases stiffness correct?

Charley
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Duane
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AutoLuxLexES wrote:
does the beam ends where the torsion arms go also have grub screws?
sorry for the newb question. i already understand the concept of narrowing and installing adjusters. i dont think the torsion arms have grub screws because the torsion arms wouldnt be able to move, with that said, shortening of the torsion bars should also increase stiffness when narrowing the beam.

Charley

edit, ok just saw the pic above, no more grub screws, so shortening the torsion bars should increase stiffness.


yes the torsion arms have grub screws also, thats what keeps them from sliding off the trosion springs and why you will need to redrill after shortening them. Wink
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AutoLuxLexES
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

does the beam ends where the torsion arms go also have grub screws?
sorry for the newb question. i already understand the concept of narrowing and installing adjusters. i dont think the torsion arms have grub screws because the torsion arms wouldnt be able to move, with that said, shortening of the torsion bars should also increase stiffness when narrowing the beam.

Charley

edit, ok just saw the pic above, no more grub screws, so shortening the torsion bars should increase stiffness.
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Duane
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:
Normally people install thicker diameter sway bars to improve handling. Thicker bars are less flexible.
Shorter bars of the same thickness are also less flexible. So the more you narrow the front, the thinner the sway bar should get to maintain the same handling.

Would it be better to shorten a stock diameter sway bar and get the increased "stiffness" from the cut and the shortening... is this enough to act like a thicker sway bar on a normal width front end? Not many thickness choices out there.

I added a 3/4" sway bar w/ urethane bushing to my stock width front end... noticeably stiffer/bumpier. I don think I'd want to use it cut down for a narrower beam... it'd be an even bumpier ride. Shocked


I'll be cutting and narrowing my stock bar next month and reinstalling, and for a 4" beam too. I'll post back and report my findings.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Normally people install thicker diameter sway bars to improve handling. Thicker bars are less flexible.
Shorter bars of the same thickness are also less flexible. So the more you narrow the front, the thinner the sway bar should get to maintain the same handling.

Would it be better to shorten a stock diameter sway bar and get the increased "stiffness" from the cut and the shortening... is this enough to act like a thicker sway bar on a normal width front end? Not many thickness choices out there.

I added a 3/4" sway bar w/ urethane bushing to my stock width front end... noticeably stiffer/bumpier. I don think I'd want to use it cut down for a narrower beam... it'd be an even bumpier ride. Shocked
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thewreckingsoul
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it does make them stiffer but it is still functional
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can sleave them if you like. but yes they will be less flexiable.but that is because you remover part of it. and is that what you want any way??stiffer,less roll.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought sway bars are spring steel? If you cut and weld them in the middle won't you end up with a less flexible sway bar? Assuming cut/weld is what you were implying?
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thewreckingsoul
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

twiggyzappa wrote:
I've got a general idea how how to do this myself. But my main question is what to do about the sway bar if the beam is narrowed more than two in.? Most retailers only sale them for a 2" narrowed beam.


get the heavy duty one and narrow it. its much easier with a tig.
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twiggyzappa
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a general idea how how to do this myself. But my main question is what to do about the sway bar if the beam is narrowed more than two in.? Most retailers only sale them for a 2" narrowed beam.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok my eyes cant digitize the photo so I can turn it and see the screw that isant shown in the pic.but I would of seen it in my hand. I presume this is so you can position it so it isant hanging down under the car looking like crap. or for on a raised beam so it isant sofar up you cant get to it to ajust it.( I cant hardly get to mine in my bug ( top one ,somebody else did it before I got the car.
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