Has anyone done this carb mod? Does it work?

Kilroy

http://www.flaktfolket.se/tips%20o%20trix/documents/solex%2034%20pict-3%20kompatibel%20med%20009.pdf

It makes sense, but was curious if anybody here has tried it.
_________________
Ruby Red '66 Sedan with Puebla built 1600DP.

Bookwus · Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:34 pm Post subject:

Hiya Kilroy,

Interesting and well written piece.

But it's based on a false assumption. And that assumption is that the 34PICT3 is the cause of the "dead spot" in acceleration. VWs equipped with their OEM 34PICT3s and OEM SVDA distributors never had this problem. Modifications to the throttle plate have improved the situation but that procedure does not really eliminate the problem.

Actually what this fellow is proposing is a little like going to the doctor with a broken arm and he wants to put a cast on your leg.
_________________
Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Have an AutoStick? Check out www.auto-stick.com

RONALDO NO9 · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:58 am Post subject:

now what can the problem be then
_________________
lifes a ride lets get nitros

Bookwus · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:50 am Post subject:

Hiya Ronaldo,

The problem lies with the 009. While this is an excellent distributor for racing it leaves something to be desired as a daily driver. Matter of fact, IIRC, the 009 was originally designed to be used on Volkswagen's industrial engines.
_________________
Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Have an AutoStick? Check out www.auto-stick.com

germanclassicg · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:39 am Post subject:

He says himself that its because the carb is meant to work with a SVDA distributor... so the obvious cure is to run a SVDA distributor.
_________________
'71 super

keifernet · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 7:02 am Post subject:

That is just a "re print with permission" of Nate's article. That's been kicking around the net for years.

I have some conflicts with the information... in that you should not block the hole completely.

And also you have to watch for some of the Bocar and other "replacement carbs" Most already have the smaller hole and are setup for SVDA, but still have DVDA retard port on them ( they tried to cover every model I guess but? )

There are also the different flange #'s on the original 34 pict 3 German carbs which match them up to which distributor they paired with.

The DVDA carbs have a larger hole in the throttle plate. These are the carbs that most often have the problem with the 009 ( I have others posts on this so I am not going to go into all the detail.)

The SVDA has a smaller hole in the throttle plate and that flange # generally runs fine.. yes even with the 009. ( Much of the flat spot/hesitations is due to people not timing the 009 correctly or it being old and sticking advance mechanism or NEW and a POS quality or both, and carb settings/state of condition in regards to the accelerator pump)

If you do anything to the hole on a DVDA you close it up SOME... making it smaller ( same size as the hole in the SVDA plate) it makes those models work much better now when used with 009 or SVDA which are timed 12.6-15 degrees further ADVANCED than the settting for the DVDA.

For stock 1600 the SVDA is the better choice for sure... or the DVDA if you still have one that works well and your going more for "originality"

Kilroy · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:30 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the info. I have a Harley Motorcycle that carb tuning has really made a difference on, so I think I'll play around with this one a little. I riveted the hole closed like the article said, had to reset the bypass and mixture screws but it seems to be better off idle than before and a little more midrange power.
Will try one size bigger main jet next.
_________________
Ruby Red '66 Sedan with Puebla built 1600DP.

jamesdagg · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 10:55 pm Post subject:

I didn't get far into that article before finding a glaring error that throws doubt on the writers knowledge.

He says the 34PICT3 was designed to be used with a SVDA timed to 5' ATDC. That's the timing for a DVDA.

I have the stock DVDA and 34/3 carb but the retard side of my can leaked so I plugged the port on the carb and retimed as a SVDA @ 7.5 BTDC. Runs great cold and warm. Perfectly smooth at all speeds, no hesitation or lag.

jim
_________________
'72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available

Kilroy · Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 11:13 am Post subject:

jamesdagg · Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 9:58 pm Post subject:

keifernet · Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:27 am Post subject:

Kilroy · Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:05 pm Post subject:

adams77

NOVA Airhead · Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:25 am Post subject:

I tried it as well. It worked great. When I bought my car it had the 009 already in it and a Pict34-3. I was fortunate enough to have two OG 34-3 carbs rebuilt by Keith to baseline this with.

First was the 34-3 with no change. Pretty significant stumble/flat spot.

Next tried a 34-3 with the rivet. The stumble/flat spot completly disappeared. The car runs great.
_________________
Ghia Owner Emeritus

Kilroy · Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:17 pm Post subject:

RATED A+

I can also verify this works. Riveted the throttle plate hole with 3/16 aluminum rivet and the car ran better. Then replaced the 127.5 main jet with a 130 ($5.00)- now car runs way better and has noticeably more power.
It's a pretty easy mod to do. The main jet is about an inch and a half inside the carb BEHIND THE BOWL DRAIN PLUG. I used a golf tee as an installation tool with the carb still on the car, but you could do both mods at once with the carb off.
_________________
Ruby Red '66 Sedan with Puebla built 1600DP.

don.ville · Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:22 pm Post subject:

Anyone tried this with JB Weld? Just messing around with a spare carb.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I didn't want to remove the throttle plate since I did not know how I would peen the screws back on without messing something up.

What do you think, should I do it on my running carb?
_________________

67 Standard 11 window How I Keep My Bus Alive
04 Jetta TDI Page (SOLD)
01 Mexican Beetle Hello Kitty Rescue (SOLD)
29 Ford Model A Rat Rod (SOLD)
2015 Audi A8L TDI Quattro

runrod1948 · Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 7:51 am Post subject:

this thread promted me so sign up for an account. I had the same problem with my 71 super when I bought it. I put in an 009 and it didn't help, although the power increase was worth the trouble. Then i read that 34pict's are junk(ie smog carbs), so i got a 30pict-2 and put that in. that was an improvement but the hesitation was still there, although somewhat less. Now, I bought this car in january. In february, we had some unseasonal hot days. The hotter it got, the better the car ran. More power and no hesitation at all.
that got me to thinking. I checked the base of the heat riser maninfold after running the car till it was hot. the manifold was ice cold. then i got to thinking about the preheater hose that someone had removed. the one going to the air cleaner. I pulled the engine, replaced the heat riser (couldn't clean it out entirely it was so plugged up) and located the parts to reinstall the preheater hose. the car now runs great, hot or cold. summary, the car hesitates at low rpm because the atomized fuel condenses on the cold manifold instead of going to the heads. at faster speeds the problems is somewhat mitigated by the faster air flow.
Just something to look into for anyone having this problem. I can't tell you how many post ive read blaming the 009. I wouldn't use anything else.


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up		Share:
		Print View

	Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page 1 of 1