Baywindow Mud Flap Bracket Plans FAQ

[71_georgia_beetle]

Not sure of the original poster of the drawn plans but I have revised them and documented the build. Enjoy.

FULL SIZE <-----Click Here

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The metal I chose was 1/8" steel for the main bracket and 22gauge for the well extension. Both pieces were purchased at Lowes around $15.

Lay out all the plans on the steel. Double check the hole location as each pair or flaps may vary slightly. You can see a few tools needed, square, ruler, markers, straight edge, etc.

I tested three types of cutting tools. Jigsaw, cutoff wheel and Dremel with a cut off wheel. The cut off tool left the edges to ragged, the Dremel was to flimsy and I kept breaking discs so I settled on the jig saw. Here is a tip: I had to switch to a full face mask. For some reason the jigsaw threw up hot steel pieces so fast that they would bounce off my cheek, ricochet off the inside of my glasses and back in my eyes.

I used a 40lb lug of steel to hold when clamps get in the way.

Finished cut outs.

Use a punch to locate the holes and eliminate bit drift.

Brace/clamp the steel to prevent it from spinning and drill out the holes. I used a floor drill but a handheld will work fine.

At the marked line, clamp the main brace and bend it over 90 degrees (don't forget the small tab). Also remember that the left side and right are different bends. The plans show a LH main bracket.

Check and adjust with a square. Close is OK because there will be some on car tweeking.

Lightly form the extension in the same fashion. This will be tweeked as well.

Shot of the initial forming.

Mock up. This is a prime time for a test fit and tweek. No need for a full mounting, I just clamped it in place.

After the mock up, sand, prime and let dry. I hastened the process with my $24.00 paint boot oven (space heater). Remember that the mock ups for each side will differ. Be sure to keep the pairs together.

Shoot with color of choice, dry and fit. Hand tighten everything, do not fully tighten.

Different angle.

Back view.

Full back view.

This is where you will need to mark up with the bracket and drill for the second hole.

This is where the well extension will mount. It will mount on the inside of the inner well, meaning you can see it if you are looking in the fender well.

Here is a view from the well side of the final mount.

Here is a view of the backside of the mount.

Completed pictures. Once you have them mounted, there is enough flex and give in the metal that you can manipulate it. In the picture, the drivers side is not level. I corrected this with a stiff pull up. Good Luck!

PDF here
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bay_window_bus_mud_flap_bracket_template.php
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[Glenn]

Very nice... thanks for sharing.
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[71_georgia_beetle]

Correction on the material: Lowes Item #11665 1/8" x 3" x 26"
Lowes Item # 11771 6" x 24" 22ga
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[itlives]

Good job!

[fusername]

extra detail is key for any write up, and yo uhave it down pat. well done sir.

one question, why do you even HAVE a 40lb slab of steel? inquiring minds want to know.
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[71_georgia_beetle]

[Bleyseng]

where did you find the mudflaps with the white VW logo??????????
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[71_georgia_beetle]

[Anchovy]

Looks good!

What is the purpose of the notch in the top center of the bracket? Looks like it would be easier to make without and there doesn't seem to be any reason to have the clearance.

P.S. You are obviously a sick individual with a work bench that clean and organized.

[71_georgia_beetle]

[Anchovy]

I understand about the adjustment slot. I am talking about the big notch you are about to cut out in this photo:

[71_georgia_beetle]

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

[baumer99]

Great instructions and fabrication technique. I used those original templates and then decided on a different design. I wasn't happy with the gaps between the brackets and the frame. I prefer a wider flap and a tighter fit to the body, so I ended going a similar but different route.

I bent an aluminum bracket to support most of the weight and give support.

Then I cut the mudflap from a larger piece designed for a large truck. I used a cardboard template to get the fit and angle right.

I used the height of the rim as a guide for how close to go to the ground. I mounted the rear outside cut piece with a bit of undercoating for extra protection. I also used undercoating to seal all of the drill holes.

The front was mounted directly to the front of the frame cross member. The front mud flap was basically a rectangle. I had to fabricate a bracket to hold the mudflap tight against the frame and cut out a small piece for the ridge in the frame. The bracket also has to go under this ridge.

I do drive on gravel roads quite a bit so the extra coverage keeps the mud from the undercarriage. I wish I did this years ago, a much cleaner undercarriage equals less rust.
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Aaron &
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[dweller]

Good god, that is one righteous post!

bookmarked for when i'm just pissed off enough to attempt it.
dp
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[Riguy718]

Those are some nice mudflaps. Does anyone manufacturer mudflaps with the VW emblem on them, or do you have to find some OG ones?
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[71_georgia_beetle]

[panic_fan]

Looks good Scott....you put my hinge idea to shame!
Either way we are both ready for some Mud Ridin' !!
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=291988&highlight=


"Still learnin the way around my VW bay"

[g16stu]

I have the mud flap braket mount plans made up as a pdf, you can download it from the site from the link below,

it should be to scale, so all you need to do is print it off, stick it to your sheet metal and get cutting,

enjoy

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bay_window_bus_mud_flap_bracket_template.php
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[PopeSutek]

I just bought them online new for 10 bucks.. Cheaper, easier, and no chance for mistakes.
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