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Ideas for Clutch and throttle cable tubes for rail?
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EMPIImp69
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:31 pm    Post subject: Ideas for Clutch and throttle cable tubes for rail? Reply with quote

My rail project is missing the metal tubes along the frame for the clutch and throttle cables. What size tubes do you reccomend using and what is the preferred method of mounting the tubes? Should they be tach welded or can I clamp them down in a few spots to the rail's tube frame so they are secure? Thanks
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Bubba 72
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say 1/4" for the throtle and at least 5/16 for the clutch both steel.
I would weld em to the tube.
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missinlugnut
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my rails, I've done it a couple of different ways. The best so far has been the Plasitic tube and throttle cable.I have also used an ebrake cable sheath and slid my cable through. For each one of the configurations, I just used self tappers and cable clamps. For my clutch cable I have used conduit, and stainless steel both 1/2 OD, then I welded it to the frame or have used cable clamps and self tappers. I ran it big so I could easily lube the cable and blow out any debris. The only draw back is that the cable loves to rub and eventually cuts through. Surprisingly, I have never cut a clutch cable...........yet. May not be the best but it's worked for years on mine.
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EMPIImp69
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bubba 72 wrote:
I would say 1/4" for the throtle and at least 5/16 for the clutch both steel.
I would weld em to the tube.
Thanks guys, I should be able to find steel fuelline/brakeline in the sizes above to use for my clutch and throttle tubes right? Also how much of a bend would be too much to come up and out the back? Do you have any pictures of your tubes? thx
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shred625
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

McKenzies has a throttle cable kit that has everything you need. It was really cheap too.

http://mckenzies.com/
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Shred has the best idea so far.
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riNR
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use Morse cables whereever you can. They're cheap and strong and save a whole lot of time goofing around with running aircraft cable though tubes.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shred, I can't find the throttle cable kit in the Mckenzies site, what category is it under? Rinr, where do you get the Morse cables? Aren't those used in boats? thx
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Rommel
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My cables both have the plastic sheathing around them, I just drilled a hole in the tube and stuck a small eye bolt in it and welded. Think I've got two eye bolts, one close to the torsion housing and one closer to the pedals. It's cheap, easy and works.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the idea of the Morse cables..but do they make the Morse cable for the clutch too or just for the throttle? I am seeing only Morse throttle cables below, thx

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh3.htm
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would just go hydraulic on the clutch if I were you.
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caromin
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

riNR wrote:
Use Morse cables whereever you can. They're cheap and strong and save a whole lot of time goofing around with running aircraft cable though tubes.


I agree with riNR, I've gone both routes and Moorse cables are hard to beat. I was running a removable cable inside a nicely made tube and a the worst possible moment it would decide to get some grit inside the tube and make the throttle want to hang up. The other issue is they are almost indestructable, snap a throttle cable out in the boonies and it's going to be a tough ride home. The Moorse will give you a nice feel to the throttle allowing better throttle control. You'll spend a little more for a moorse setup but it isn't that much and the benifits far outweigh the cost. Hyd clutch is another must in my book, nice predictable engagement and very easy on the foot. Smooth throttle and chutch control really helps you control the vehicle.
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Last edited by caromin on Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:26 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hydralic will be too expensive right now for me tho..I want to try to see if I can adapt a stock clutch cable end at the pedal assembly to fit a Morse cable. But I am trying to see if they make a bracket that holds 2 morse cables? or must I fab one up? thx
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never seen a Moorse used for the cluch, of course that doesn't mean squat. It's not too difficult to make up a clutch setup out of a stock cable thats very strong. My only issue with running any kind of cable for the clutch is the engagment can get a little wierd when you're in a tight spot and there is some chassis flex, the engagment can get flakey. I'd opt for a Moorse throttle and adapt a stock clutch cable for now, later you can swap the clutch over to hyd when funds allow if you decide to improve it.
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vwrides.com
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My lowbuck rail was done like this.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After I put the hard lines on and tweaked the pedal mount as it flexes when I put my size 11 on it.


See more
http://www.vwrides.com/viewtopic.php?t=405
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caromin
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris, on my old setup (very similar) I had the same flex problem. Its because the MC mounting plate is only supported on one side, add a little brace to the LH side of the mount and it will work much better.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

caromin wrote:
Chris, on my old setup (very similar) I had the same flex problem. Its because the MC mounting plate is only supported on one side, add a little brace to the LH side of the mount and it will work much better.


My pedal assembly is actually a 68 up style. l just cut the pedal mount off and ground it smooth so I could use the roller pedal. This larger unit also hits at the bottom and the PO had grinded some clearance.

I've got some angle iron and in the process of making a new pedal mount soon with all the necessary clearances. The hardest part is cutting the larger holes for MC and Pedal in that super strong angle iron. BUT.. It will not move at all then. Wink
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Chris and Chris Wink . Hey Chris (Vwrides), are you running only rear brakes for now? I like your set up, I may do my clutch cable like yours but use a morse cable for the throttle, thx.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, only rear at the moment. Going for some disks up front soon.

I had to totally rebuild the brake system. It was shot... and was using plastic lines... and I just don't trust plastic lines. So with a few busted knuckles.. I installed some metal lines this weekend.

Snaked around the sand brake
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Custom bends and rubber lines back on.
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riNR
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would think that the Morse cables would have enough throw to run as a clutch cable. There's no way I'd want to run cable through an open tube especially if your running a HD pressure plate.
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