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Ideas for Clutch and throttle cable tubes for rail?
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EMPIImp69
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris, nice line bending work..I did the same with the rear brake lines on my rail this past weekend, except my lines are the green coated ones, but your bends are nicer Very Happy .Rinr right now I am using a 002 Bus trans with new stock pressure plate and new clutch disk. Would be alright you think? I am still interested in making the morse cable work for the clutch but would I need to fab a bracket that holds 2 morse cables? 1 for throttle and 1 for clutch? The normal bracket is in the link below..thx
http://www.appletreeauto.com/detail.aspx?ID=14753
Also do you think I could use this clevis & pin at the pedal assembly for the clutch? thx
http://www.appletreeauto.com/detail.aspx?ID=14752
Or should this one be used?
http://www.appletreeauto.com/detail.aspx?ID=10936

Another idea I had was to tap the end of the clutch cable piece so it will screw onto the Morse cable, you know the piece that goes over the hook on the pedal assembly in the bottom right of this picture below. Im not sure what this piece is called. Do you think it would work?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=598542
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Glasser
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwrides.com wrote:
My lowbuck rail was done like this.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After I put the hard lines on and tweaked the pedal mount as it flexes when I put my size 11 on it.[/See more
http://www.vwrides.com/viewtopic.php?t=405


Yes you have to be aware of those brackets. We had a guy hill climb and didn't make it. He was on the brake hard to stop from rolling back wards when the bracket "tweaked" actually buckled and the master cylinder rod came out of the master cylinder. Never seen anything like it before. He want back wards full tilt mowing everything down in sight. THANKFULLY he didn't hit any large trees until at the very bottom. He caught a tree with the front wheel and ripped the front end off.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Another good reason to go through your ENTIRE rail if you bought used and look for potential issues.

After that we converted it back to a type 1 front end with proper mounting. It was almost scary to see how this was welded on.
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vwrides.com
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EMPIImp69 wrote:
Chris, nice line bending work..I did the same with the rear brake lines on my rail this past weekend, except my lines are the green coated ones, but your bends are nicer Very Happy


Thanks. Yes, I ordered the brake replacement line kit from JC Whitney.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=DBC182615

I just had to mix and match for my special setup and had to get more smaller ones than the kit supplied due to my sand brake setup. All the parts houses had the green coated ones.. except O'Reilly Auto Parts carried the silver zinc coated ones.. BINGO perfect match!

On your other setup, unknown on specifics. I have to get the parts in my hands and see how to make the puzzle go together as less complicated as possible. I've had cal-bugs/buses/bajas since late 80's.. but not many rails.
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vwrides.com
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glasser wrote:

Yes you have to be aware of those brackets. We had a guy hill climb and didn't make it. He was on the brake hard to stop from rolling back wards when the bracket "tweaked" actually buckled and the master cylinder rod came out of the master cylinder. Never seen anything like it before.


Tragic. Glad to hear everyone was safe! Yes this is why I'm working on a custom build out of angle iron as stated in my original post. That will not buckle under a panic stomp! Laughing


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is how my ratty rail's pedal assembly arrived. Note how the PO kept the brake pedal from falling forward! Sheesh!



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The above was a mockup after some cleaning and Por-15.
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Glasser
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That isn't even bailer twine Laughing


Looking good, sounds good.

The plate is usable if you add a gusset on the master cylinder side of the bracket. That is what we did.
But beefy angle iron sounds like the way to go. Definitely one of those places that over kill is the better option.
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caromin
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EMPIImp69 wrote:

http://www.appletreeauto.com/detail.aspx?ID=14753
Also do you think I could use this clevis & pin at the pedal assembly for the clutch? thx
http://www.appletreeauto.com/detail.aspx?ID=14752
Or should this one be used?
http://www.appletreeauto.com/detail.aspx?ID=10936


EMPII, I'm running that bracket you linked for the Moorse throttle cable, it's not heavy duty enough since it's stamped steel and bent. The bracket isn't the hard part, it's the ends and if the cable is strong enough. Since you want to run a cable clutch, check these guys out.

http://www.push-pull.com/

These guys do some nice work, totally custom too.
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EMPIImp69
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys for the pics and info..do you recommend doing the clutch cable like this below off to the left side? Won't it get in the way? or get knocked around? thx

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwrides.com wrote:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The above was a mockup after some cleaning and Por-15.


I think I am going to have to do something like this. I got a bug-pack bracket for my foot pedals. No way in heck they fit that bracket. The holes on the side to mount the cluster are too low. I'll have to cut out a section of the bottom and weld in a new stop so that my pedals will clear the base. I'll also have to grind down some of the under side of the cast aluminum part of the cluster...it also hits on the bottom, and doesn't allow for the mounting holes to line up.Goofy set up...not sure who invented it. Not ideal if you ask me. I bought it because I thought it would be a bolt on deal. Nope. Honestly, it would be easier to fab a new mount than to modify the bug-pack mount. Oh well, I spent the money on it. Now I'll just have to hack it up. Laughing
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