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Dirkdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: carp! Reply with quote

Dang, I was pushing the glass back in place, using a bar clamp cushioned with wood and my jig, some inner tube and soap spray, but the thing cracked the glass by the latch. $*#&% Brick wall

Looks like I'll have to hit the glass shop after all. will bring jig and maybe between all of us we can get it in.

Curious, my vent window had some dried sort of compound on the bottom to smooth out the area by the latch. I tried using some plumber's putty to smooth out this area after installing the new latch and rivits.

Also, the latch/frame I bought had a lower inside edge on the latch area. So the latch got wider before bottoming out in my frame that I was reusing (as it was painted). I ended up using a rotary tool to grind that inside edge of the frame down so this latch would fit in all the way to the bottom. Anyone else seen this issue? My bus is '63.
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 5:11 pm    Post subject: Re: carp! Reply with quote

Dirkdaddy wrote:
Curious, my vent window had some dried sort of compound on the bottom to smooth out the area by the latch. I tried using some plumber's putty to smooth out this area after installing the new latch and rivits.


Yes, there is some putty there to fill that area since there would be a gap otherwise.
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ldsvwguy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hitting up a glass shop is a great idea actually. I think I'll do that when my DC is back!
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Dirkdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 8:08 am    Post subject: glass Reply with quote

Guy says he can cut the glass but won't install it, so I need to revisit that. Figured so much as this is a odd job. Cost was less than $50 for glass cut to size estimated (rough).
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mrlimbo
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone have a source for the hinge rivets?? Or and idea what to use? Besides a standard hardware store rivet.
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Thomas Pedigo
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WW has hinge rivets.
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volksaddict
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stuff is called setting tape. Go to your local glass shop, be nice and they will give you some- in your choice of thicknesses for almost nothing.
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GeorgeO.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:02 pm    Post subject: Re: carp! Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Dirkdaddy wrote:
Curious, my vent window had some dried sort of compound on the bottom to smooth out the area by the latch. I tried using some plumber's putty to smooth out this area after installing the new latch and rivits.


Yes, there is some putty there to fill that area since there would be a gap otherwise.


I have done this type of repair before and the thing I notice is always the bottom area gets plenty of rust. I ask a shop one time and his suggestion is to keep that area as dry as possible. The glass setting tape is suppose to provide as seal between glass in the frame but it has to be seated correctly. That being said any type of compound between seal and the frame depending on the type will absorb moisture. If it's a petrol base, the seal can deteriorate to the point that moisture makes it way to frame and rust it out. The frames I've done were on the Beetle and the Split window Bus. The 69 Beetle had more rust on the frame than the 65 Bus.
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65 Deluxe
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guys,

I have always used a popout frame inner rubber seal and just cut it in half. One is enough to do both wing windows. It also gives you a nice lip over the edge of the frame. I just trim the rubber lip around the latch and this can be done by hand.
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Bulli Klinik
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An inner safari window seal works primo, if you don't mind the little lip on the seal. I actually think that it finishes the window out better, like a popout or a safari.

No pressing and no cutting the seal.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because I have worked on a number of Earthships and we used black butyl caulk to seal solid panes of glass with it on the exterior. It holds up to UV very well, water resistant, is flexible and takes longer to cure then most caulks. It does need to be wiped off with paint thinner before it cures. Being that it is a rubber based compound, it seems it would work perfectly.
I will try it on my windows instead of using the rubber, which gave me a PIMA last time, even with the jig and EZ clamps.
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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find it hard to believe that no one out there has piped in here saying that they have located a real dealership vent press tool! If I ever located one, after I re-mounted the glass into mine, I'd retire and sit around all day long pressing everyone's vent window glass into their painted frames! But then I'm a little weird like that...

The other great question in life that seems to remain unanswered is, how did the Brunhilde or Dieter at the Hannover factory trim the rubber underneath the "swoosh" piece so well? What modern day solution has anyone come up with to trim that rubber cleanly (photos please!)?

The #737 tool search continues...

Bill Bowman
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JDV
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would like to see a picture of the pop out seal used for the vent wing. Its sounds like a really good idea. How did installation go with that seal. All my glass is sigma so I wonder if it will still fit.
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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

x 2 !!! Photo of that please!

So when using a pop-out seal it presses into the frame with less effort, no need for a cobbled-up press or clamps? Any problems with looseness?

Bill
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Bulli Klinik
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A popout seal will not work. Not enough depth. An inner safari window seal works perfectly. I'm doing this on a customers Bus right now, as I have on Buses in the past. The seals that are supposed to go in there are worthless, unless your goal is to break vent windows.

As a side note, WW felts for the slider windows are manufactured too thin. When the sliders are installed, the thin seals allow the window have too much vertical movement. On the most recent rubber install I've done, I shimmed the upper and lower felts to tighten this up. Maybe the vent wing rubber which comes from the kit has a use after all?
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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input Mike, any chance you could post a nice photo or two of that customers vent window all sealed up once you are done so we can all see how it works, Any problems with pressing them together, or any looseness? Any tricks or tools you use with these seals?

I agree on the seals provided for this purpose, way too thick and virtually un-installable without a dealership press... Thanks for any tutorial with the safari glass to frame seals used on a vent window! Oh! who do you order your safari seals from?

Bill
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Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!
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Bulli Klinik
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll take some shots when the rivets I need arrive and post them up. I get my seals from WW.
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BulliBill
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mike, I liked your website too. I imagine that you could do a pair of vent window out of one safari seal, correct? So if WW sells the safari seals in pairs, you could do 4 vent windows?

Bill
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Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!
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KevinAlbrecht
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used friction tape. A rubber very flexible tape, and it worked great.
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Bulli Klinik
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As promised, here's the safari vs. pop-out comparison. Top pop-out, bottom, safari:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Safari:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pop-out:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Inside:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Outside:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Don't forget to use your number one tool!:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You have to stretch the seal a bit to eliminate bunching in the corners. I like leave the glass in the frame at least overnight before trimming it out.

Good luck with your vent windows! Take your time and do it nice!
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