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Franklinstower
Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2006
Posts: 1895
Location: PNW
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 Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:23 am Post subject: |
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I say forget Dorman unless that is your only option...
Use Sway-a-Way studs - they have the right knurl diameter - .580" (14.75mm); 14 x 1.5 threads, and come in many lengths. I use the 52 mm studs for my wheels and spacers.
http://www.swayaway.com/WheelStudsAndNuts.php#
just press out the old and press in the new. Also Loogy can provide you with studs that are the correct size etc.
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'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
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danfromsyr
Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 15141
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 8:15 am Post subject: |
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The Sway-Away site looks good,
though I noticed this *note
| sway-away wrote: |
| Note: Must Drill To 1/2” & Ream Hubs To 9/16” With (.562”) Reamer |
Soo do those require additional service like the Dorman brand? or truely a press out-press in replacement stud?
also need to nail down what the length should be.. I guess that depends on if one uses spacers or just thicker Audi aluminum rims.
$4ea can/does add up quick in the project department, but certainly better then $8ea.. and sure who wants to trust a $1 stud..
Dan in NY
Ohh HEY does anyone out there reading this know or have handy a Syncro front Rotor? I need to know the rotor thickness and none of the websites selling them will list it. Thanks
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Franklinstower
Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2006
Posts: 1895
Location: PNW
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| Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:50 am Post subject: |
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| danfromsyr wrote: |
The Sway-Away site looks good,
though I noticed this *note
| sway-away wrote: |
| Note: Must Drill To 1/2” & Ream Hubs To 9/16” With (.562”) Reamer |
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No you do not need to ream the hubs. The Sway-a-way studs pressed right in. Maybe it is necessary to ream the hubs on Bugs.
that is my experience anyhow.
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'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug |
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JeffRobenolt
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1513
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:14 am Post subject: |
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But if you are using Audi rear rotor's the dorman studs center the rotor. If you use a stud with the stock knurl you have to make a hub centric spacer to center the rotor.
So it depends what your doing to decide which studs to use. It's a lot easier to ream 5 holes than make a spacer, that isn't the case if you are using the stock drums, which this post is not about.
Jeff
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danfromsyr
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Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 15141
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:48 am Post subject: |
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couldn't I add the retaining screw to hold the rotor in center?
or do we think that would just snap from rotational forces allowed by the slight slop in the rotor to stud fitment?
I'm not against either.. and at the moment I'm leaning the vancafe way.. I've never ordered/recieved cookies Mmmm cookies..
I did get a link from Wellington for Brembo catalog
the Syncro front rotors are 16mm thick with a min spec of 13mm
the Eurovan Rear solid rotors (12mm thick) may be what I need for my Subie E-brake calipers
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danfromsyr
Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 15141
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 12:09 pm Post subject: |
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I'm adding more to this thread but wish to keep stud/nut information consolidated
Here is the AUDI performance guys answer.
www.034motorsport.com Wheel Stud and Nut Kit, M14
| 034motorsport wrote: |
Wheel Stud and Nut Kit, M14 $3.50
Wheel nut and stud combo, M14x1.5 threads, Grade 8.8 with Zinc plating. Supplied in 2 lengths, default is 1.75" (which is fine for most wheel applicaitons w/o a spacer), or 2.5" which would accomodate a spacer. Fits many Audi application with M14 threaded hubs, cone seat for most aftermarket wheels.
For 1.75" stud, lower threads are .4" (10mm) long, upper threads are 1.2" (30mm) long
For 2.5" stud, lower threads are .4" (10mm) long, upper threads are 1.7" (43mm) long
Priced per 1 stud and 1 nut, a 4-bolt car will need a total of 16 pieces, a 5-bolt car will need 20.
Available Options:
Change Nuts to Ball Seat: (+$0.45)
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ECS Tuning
has these HUGE CONICAL lug bolts for $13/5
| ECS Part # 252735 wrote: |
ECS Conical Seat 14x1.5x40mm Wheel Bolt - Set Of 5 $12.95
Conical seat bolts for your aftermarket wheels
ECS own conical wheel bolt set (5). Conical seats fit most aftermarket wheels. Specs:
14mm diameter
1.5mm thread pitch
40mm length
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JeffRobenolt
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1513
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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Dan you could countersink a set screws to hold the rotor center or drill and use a roll pins.
The washers I used to space the rotors out didn't work. I made a spacer out of AL that was .140" think, I said in a previous post that the washers were 1mm think that was wrong.
With the welded brackets it took a lot of time to get everything to fit good. I have $400 of time into these and could make more for $100, because of all the fine tuning it takes to make them fit good I don't think I would want to sell them.
After it is all said and done,(front and rears) It was worth it, BUT I wouldn't do it again. I would wait til someone mass produced CNC brackets and sorce out the parts. I'm sure it will be happening soon, but I was sick of waiting.
How does the van stop??? The first time I hit the pedal it scared me!! I pushed on the pedal the way I used to and the van stopped so quick. Now I don't even have to press on the pedal very much, before it was both feet on the pedal and gripping the steering wheel to TRY to stop.
It stops as good or better than our car.
Jeff
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vwsyncroguy
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Joined: July 27, 2004
Posts: 242
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| Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:40 am Post subject: |
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How's the emergency brake?
W.C>\? |
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JeffRobenolt
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1513
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 6:15 am Post subject: |
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Being in Wisconsin the only vehicles that have working e-brake are new cars and old ones that have been used everyday. Normally when you buy a used car it is bad Karma to even touch it, rust and salt sucks.
Most cars with a stick are used enough to keep them working but auto's are most likely seized. Since I have an auto and never used the brake yet, and it was seized I'm in no hurry to hook it up.
When I do hook it up I don't see to much of a problem since it is the same rear caliper that Smallcar and other people are using and they have the ebrake working.
Jeff
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danfromsyr
Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 15141
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:19 pm Post subject: |
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getting my hubs turned soon, and have to source the studs still.
I have a pair of VR6 Eurovan rear rotors, that will require thicker shank studs or a hubcentric ring adapter. going with studs option.
will make a nice winter project while I prepare our camper for the VW Sunshine Skyway Treffen we're participating in this april/may
Thanks for the info.
Dan in NY
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Wellington
Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2004
Posts: 1884
Location: Montreal
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| Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 4:34 am Post subject: |
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Does anyone know the dimensions of Audi TT 3,2 quatro rear calipers???
The p&p here has a TT, I can get the whole rear set up for $100, I know the rear discs are vented, the hole pattern is 5 x 100, so my real question is , does someone know of a compatible disc to use with these calipers? Maybe the V8 disc? |
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mozcar78
Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2013
Posts: 39
Location: Long Beach
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| Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:04 pm Post subject: |
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Grave Bump. I am very interested in doing this upgrade to my van. Thanks for sharing. Now I'm just hoping there is an update on any improvements made on this setup. Also looking for a template for a rear caliper mounting bracket.
Thanks again.
Oscar
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89' Vanagon GL 'Free Candy' Edition
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0cean
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Joined: February 29, 2012
Posts: 1149
Location: California
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Crankey
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2004
Posts: 2656
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| Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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thanks for the info on the studs. I already have new studs in my hubs but might be replacing them with your info about the Dorman studs.
also...you mentioned the e brake
| Quote: |
| When I do hook it up I don't see to much of a problem since it is the same rear caliper that Smallcar and other people are using and they have the ebrake working. |
heh, you have read some of the posts regarding e brake function on these calipers...some come out fine, some struggle quite a bit with it.
what about making a scaled up version of something like this to add more pull ?
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/travel-agent
if this could be mounted before the Y junction in the e brake cable maybe you wouldn't need the bowden cable housings...or need to make two of them. |
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