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squareweave Samba Member
Joined: November 15, 2004 Posts: 448 Location: British Columbia
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:08 am Post subject: Eberspacher BN4 info and help FAQ |
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I just received a copy of the Eberspacher manual from an advertiser on thesamba and assumed that being that it said it covered 12v bn4 heaters that it would cover bay heaters, it covers 12v bn4 heaters from split busses but it doesn't cover install etc for early bay. I have a bn4 for my 70 westy, can I use the info provided for the earlier 12v bn4 to test my heater out.
As well does anybody have templates and info for installing the bn4 in an early bay? Do I need a dash switch or is the pull switch with cable that mounts under the drivers seat enough to get me going for now?
Thanks in advance! |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51150 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:05 am Post subject: |
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Most of the splitty system is similar, the bay uses an extra relay, you will need a switch somewhere up front but it doesn't have to be a timer switch.
I'm away this week but I'll get you some templates from a factory heater bus next week. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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rustbus Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2009 Posts: 2078 Location: alberta
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Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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hi,
didnt want to start a new BN4 thread and this one has the best all-round title.
Is my BN4 setup complete? which, if any, parts am i missing to make for a full install?
I think/hope I still have the cable that ends in the fuel tank area, i believe i left that there. fingers crossed.
also, the switch is still in the dash.
Thanks for any help!
_________________ May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
my Bus thread |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51150 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Looks like it's all there to me, does your bus have the duct and grill behind the spare tire for the air intake?
I also can't see the combustion air intake that goes on the bottom of the battery tray or the flex hose for it. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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rustbus Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2009 Posts: 2078 Location: alberta
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Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Looks like it's all there to me, does your bus have the duct and grill behind the spare tire for the air intake?
I also can't see the combustion air intake that goes on the bottom of the battery tray or the flex hose for it. |
thanks busdaddy, i knew you'd knew that!
this heater, at least the main flame thrower itself, the pump, and the white return and exhaust ducts original to my bus, so it has the duct and grill and other holes ready to go.
combustion air intake - is that metal? or paper-flex? if so, i've misplaced it and better start hunting....Thanks again - got any pics of the intake? _________________ May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51150 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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It's a metal tube around 25mm dia with a 90 degree bend that screws to the bottom of the battery tray with a round flange with 3 holes, then a length of paper or plastic covered flex hose connects between it and the heater. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Opossum Samba Member
Joined: February 26, 2005 Posts: 735 Location: Islets of Langerhans
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Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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Did you check The Samba's "technical > manuals > heating and air conditioning" section?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/heater_ac.php
There are several manuals for the BN4. _________________ "You can lead an aircooled to water, but you can't make it drink"
"Live and learn or crash and burn"
"It's only Cool, If it's Air-Cooled"
Virginia Whiteface (Opossum) the first VW
Camper Special Club Member
1973 Orange Westfalia Hard top, Original owner |
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pittwagen Samba Member
Joined: November 08, 2005 Posts: 766 Location: North of the 49th parallel
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Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 7:06 pm Post subject: |
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You will need some type of on/off switch. The classified section has one or two timer types as does German Supply last time I checked. I just used a late BN2 switch on mine for testing purposes.
I have a late BN4 heater ready to go in my 79. You may or may not have the metal fresh air return duct on your van. My van is from California and that piece is not there.
Many years ago I had a 74 P21 and it did not have the metal fresh air return for the BN4 as it would have come up in the rear closet.
I have actually installed a 74 P27 interior (less top) in my 79 and I do not think I will use the fresh air return for the reasons noted above. You may also find it is easier to get a longer bowden cable and install it on the dash with your on off switch rather than try to drill and route the factory cable.
A muffler shop can make the fresh air return pipe or Canadian Tire and or Lordco may have a pipe that is close in size and shape.
Just make sure you bench test the heater before you install it. Your heater (shown in the pics) is for a later bus so you will need to go to the tech section for info on how to adjust and clean the points and fuel pump - common issues if the heater has sat for an extended period.
Here is another site that will assist. I think the templates are there. If not send me a PM and I will email you a doc with the templates.
http://www.oacdp.com/ebersp.html
Good luck. |
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rustbus Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2009 Posts: 2078 Location: alberta
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Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 10:09 am Post subject: |
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hey thanks guys.
i remember that combustion intake piece now...i wonder what ever happened to it. actually, i'm surprised i still have the heater itself, sat in a barn out at the parent place for years collecting dust,im lucky it wasnt tossed.
i've checked out the tech section, thanks possum, funny that ll the manuals seem to refer to an older version with the metal fan cover. shame there arent any higher quality scans of the exploded view
pittwagen, thanks for the tips too - most of that stuff is already on my bus as it was originally equiped with this heater, being a Vancouver BC delivery bus.
10 years or so ago, when i first got the bus, i hoooked this thing up too. it fired, and i do remember one winter day we went to a movie and fired it up and it actually heated the rear space up very fast. hopefully it still runs! not sure why i took it out, probably cause the fuel lines were risky.
any adivse on just how far i need to tear this down? all the way? anything i should stay out of? _________________ May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51150 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 10:45 am Post subject: |
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If you only want to do it once you really need to go all the way the first time. Start putting PB blaster on the gland nut that holds the flame switch into the combustion chamber and if you can get it loose soak the part of the flame switch probe that goes into the threaded area, they're often stuck and you cant split the case without removing the switch. Careful bending it as well, there's a glass rod inside of the probe. Once you get the case split mark the position of the motor on the combustion chamber before you remove it, once the motor's off you'll need to get the impingement ring (cylinder with fins) off the dirty end of the motor, there's a teeny tiny allen head set screw that you access through a hole in the side of the motor. Once the ring is off you can dismantle the motor and clean both sets of points as well as lube the bushings. Remove the orange fan by screwing a headlight ring screw into the end of the fan. Careful blowing out the combustion chamber, it's lined with asbestos and it needs to be to burn properly, turn it over repeatedly to shake out as much crap as you can and leave it at that. Clean up all the terminals and ground connections on the heater before you begin reassembly. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Alex6373 Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2007 Posts: 882 Location: Vancouver Island,B.C.
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Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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looking for a expert to have a look at mine any takers! |
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Alex6373 Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2007 Posts: 882 Location: Vancouver Island,B.C.
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Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks BusDaddy |
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rustbus Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2009 Posts: 2078 Location: alberta
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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i disassembled the BN4 today, just short of the fan motor (left my allen keys at the shop) everything looks good but this little gipper looks a little "flame kissed" at the end. should i attempt to clean this with some high grit sandpaper? wire wheel on a dremmel? leave it alone?
Thanks!
_________________ May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51150 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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Wire wheel if you must, but the dust produced likely contains lead, you decide. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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rustbus Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2009 Posts: 2078 Location: alberta
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 3:20 pm Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Wire wheel if you must, but the dust produced likely contains lead, you decide. |
well after takin in all that asbestos earlier, i think i'll lay off the lead.
could i just leave it as is? or should i buy a new one? the tip is melted a little - no problem? _________________ May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
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germansupplyscott Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2004 Posts: 7093 Location: toronto
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51150 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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rustbus wrote: |
busdaddy wrote: |
Wire wheel if you must, but the dust produced likely contains lead, you decide. |
well after takin in all that asbestos earlier, i think i'll lay off the lead.
could i just leave it as is? or should i buy a new one? the tip is melted a little - no problem? |
Warm up the probe with a propane torch and listen for a faint click from the switch, then wait for another as it cools, better yet test the switch with your VOM while you are doing it. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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rustbus Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2009 Posts: 2078 Location: alberta
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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
rustbus wrote: |
busdaddy wrote: |
Wire wheel if you must, but the dust produced likely contains lead, you decide. |
well after takin in all that asbestos earlier, i think i'll lay off the lead.
could i just leave it as is? or should i buy a new one? the tip is melted a little - no problem? |
Warm up the probe with a propane torch and listen for a faint click from the switch, then wait for another as it cools, better yet test the switch with your VOM while you are doing it. |
thanks, this worked, took about 20 -30 seconds with my little butane torch, heard the click, then about 5-10 seconds cool down and it clicked again
I had my eye on that replacement from Germansupply, if this one was pooched. thanks Scott!
Last question, i promise (insert fingers crossed behind my back smiley)
I've removed the set/grub screw from the ugly side - left a drip of oil on it all night and then heated the fan hub a little. some steady pressure on the screw and it slowly let go. thought it wasnt going to. the other side also popped off with a screw (had no headlight screws handy so i used a carb screw of some sort) the ugly fan popped off with some steady finger pressure.
question is - how do i break it down further than this? i'm famous for ruining things by trying to hard too take them apart, so i dont want to beat or pry too hard on anything....what do i do next?
_________________ May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51150 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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You've got the big circlip off so now push the motor out of the housing (it's in a rubber sleeve IIRC), push on the dirty end. The single slot screw with the paint on it holds on the cover for the points, one on each end. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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rustbus Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2009 Posts: 2078 Location: alberta
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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
You've got the big circlip off so now push the motor out of the housing (it's in a rubber sleeve IIRC), push on the dirty end. The single slot screw with the paint on it holds on the cover for the points, one on each end. |
thanks again man, i got it apart and cleaned up the elaborate points setup. One of the points has a dimple/pimple on it. i sanded it down a little with some smooth paper. Due to soldered wires coming through the end plates, i dont think I'm going to take it any further, unless the only way to properly lube those bushings is by breaking it apart... i have a soldering iron, but soldering kinda makes me crazy a little
can I just oil the bushings from the outside? or is that a waste of time?
also, the motor clicks when running. almost like the points are snappy a little.... problem? i recall this noise from the first time it ran...i just assumed it was the sparkplug... _________________ May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
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