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How would you address this front suspension issue
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jr_vw2
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 4:08 pm    Post subject: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

Some im starting to get into this buggy i picked up last week. Previous own said he cut every other leaf in the front torsion bars. the front end is super stiff even with no shocks on it i can barley get the suspension to move with me standing on the beam and bouncing up and down, and that is with the shocks removed. So i decided to pull it apart and see exactly what he did.

he cut the three smaller bars on the top and bottom of each stack, he did this on both tubes. So my question is this, how would you address this now? Cut one full size bar out of each stack and see what happens. Buy one complete set and do it correctly and leave one tube the way it is now?


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Kafer_Mike
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 6:02 pm    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

I've seen people do that on extremly narrowed beams (>4") to soften the ride -- though I've always considered it a 'hack' job. Also, the spring stack looks pretty dry and/or rusty in the picture. If that is the case, they could be stuck together -- making them act as a solid bar. I would replace them with a clean used set and make sure they're well greased so they don't bind when they twist.
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jr_vw2
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 6:32 pm    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

Kafer_Mike wrote:
I've seen people do that on extremly narrowed beams (>4") to soften the ride -- though I've always considered it a 'hack' job. Also, the spring stack looks pretty dry and/or rusty in the picture. If that is the case, they could be stuck together -- making them act as a solid bar. I would replace them with a clean used set and make sure they're well greased so they don't bind when they twist.


They are not rusty or stuck together
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 6:47 pm    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

Sounds like a bent beam

bnc
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 8:03 pm    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

I have run into a lot of poor quality Ball Joints in the past 5 years, which have been a root cause of stiff front BJ suspensions. I now "Break in" the ball joints after installation into the trailing arm, but before installing the arm into the beam. I mount the trailing arm in a vice with the BJ stud up. Double nut the threaded portion, then use an adapter in my 1/2 inch drill and a socket to spin the BJ to break it in. Only takes about 30 to 45 seconds spinning it to wear the bj enough that is actually articulates and does not bind the suspension holding it in a up position.

I am also seeing it in some new tie rods too.

Take care to "sneak up" on loosening the BJ and not over wear it. You will feel and hear the drill motor ease up as the BJ comes around, and that is when I stop spinning it.
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jspbtown
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 5:20 am    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

Well its never gonna run like a Cadillac.... Very Happy

You can add a set of adjusters and put them in opposite directions (one up and one down), or you can add a single adjuster and drop it down.

And make sure your tire pressure should be where its supposed to be and run a tire with a little bit of sidewall.

At the end of the day you might get it to ride like a truck.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 5:56 am    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
I have run into a lot of poor quality Ball Joints in the past 5 years, which have been a root cause of stiff front BJ suspensions. I now "Break in" the ball joints after installation into the trailing arm, but before installing the arm into the beam. I mount the trailing arm in a vice with the BJ stud up. Double nut the threaded portion, then use an adapter in my 1/2 inch drill and a socket to spin the BJ to break it in. Only takes about 30 to 45 seconds spinning it to wear the bj enough that is actually articulates and does not bind the suspension holding it in a up position.

I am also seeing it in some new tie rods too.

Take care to "sneak up" on loosening the BJ and not over wear it. You will feel and hear the drill motor ease up as the BJ comes around, and that is when I stop spinning it.


Might also try it on heim joint with nylon inserts for dual carb throttle linkages.... Found a bit if spinning help looses up the linkage a bit...

On my manx clone I just removed all the 1/2 leaves and cranked everything else (Grub screws) down and it softened front quite a bit, also have avis adjuster in from beam to adjust ride height...

Dale
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jr_vw2
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 6:09 am    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

Ok so what you guys are saying is that with all the half leaves cut out it should be a noticable difference. All the ball joints and tie rod ends are new and it hasnt been driven since all this has been replaced.

How much should I be able to flex the suspension under my weight without shocks on it?
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 7:53 am    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

jr_vw2 wrote:


How much should I be able to flex the suspension under my weight without shocks on it?


The buggy I am currently finishing, it has a full set top and bottom, staggered adjusters, and I weigh 240. I flex it about 6 to 7 inches total difference bouncing on it. This is with a winch mounted up front, bigger fuel tank, full roll cage, extra lights, custom fuel tank that weighs about 10 pounds more than stock. Built for off road, and "Broke in" ball joints, and oil filled shocks.

Last one I built basically as a simple buggy, removed all small leaves, no adjusters, simple 1 inch diameter bumper would bounce about 4 to 5 inches. It had good used ball joints, and oil filled shocks.
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oprn
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 8:11 am    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

I added adjusters and set them in opposite directions as suggested and quite frankly could not feel any difference. Beware of adjusting them too low as you run out of travel and suddenly it's worse. The front starts to bounce off the road on bumps (tires get air time) which is not very safe!
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 11:34 am    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

I removed 3 of the 4 total sets of small leaves. I liked the way it rode with all 4 removed, but my front fenders hit the tires under hard braking, so I put one set back in. I don't have any adjusters installed on this car.
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jr_vw2
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 12:20 pm    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

Thanks for all the tips. I already ordered some adjusted so I may leave the stacks as is for now and get my adjusters installed and see what I can come up with there. I will also "break in" the ball joints.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 1:20 pm    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

Don't forget tire pressure...

Yes...I know...it doesn't effect suspension travel but it does help with ride quality. And ultimately I assume thats what you are after right?
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 3:25 pm    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

My experience is with older king and link pin frames, never owned a ball joint Bug. A stock beam in a buggy doesn't move by hand and only moves a little if you have your foot in the front beam and step down on it. The problem is, a buggy is so light the suspension is all the way up and still preloaded. If you cut and turn the center of both tubes 1/4 inch you have a properly working suspension that is just a little higher than stock. Stock torsion bars are now NOT against the stops should be something you can move an inch pressing down with one hand, even with a bare frame (no body or gas tank.)

I highly recommend some type of height adjustable front end. Unless you are building a primarily off road car (not my thing, I'm of no help there) I recommend you install those adjusters in the lowering position. After all, the stock position offers zero downward wheel travel. Between the reduced weight and the different buggy bodies it is difficult to cut and turn the front beam to hit your target ride height.

Oh, I give a dimension for a cut and turn. What that means is to scribe a line on the torsion housing and then cut the center free and turn it to offset the scribe line that amount. On a stock Bug the car lowers about 6 times that amount (when done to both tubes.) It is an old school method, better than using a "select a drop." Laughing
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cbeck
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 4:58 pm    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

My street rail front end would not move much when I jumped on it, but still managed to use almost all 8 inches of shock travel. Have you drove it, or just jump on front end?
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2020 12:16 am    Post subject: Re: How would you address this front suspension issue Reply with quote

There's no need to cut/weld etc the leaves on a ball joint beam, you can just remove the thin leaves (in whole groups of three).
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