Calling all steering / suspension gurus!

[shorepig]

The van:

85 automatic, 180 000 km's, it sat for 4 years, then I bought it I've been driving it for 3 years.

The issue:

Front end seemed very loose, and would knock and bang over the smallest of road cracks and bumps, and I always suspected the rubber bushings were likely dried up. You could feel the harshness transmitted through the body of the van, as well as through the steering wheel. I figured this was a result of the van sitting for so many years without use.

As well, about a year ago, I was cut off at low speed and knocked the front right wheel into a low curb (about 5 inches high) and this seemed to throw the alignment off a bit, cause some new vibrations at hwy speeds, and the steering to really wander in dips on the hwy.

So I checked over the front end and came to the conclusion that I needed new upper ball joints, upper control arm bushings, and shocks. I just replaced these parts, and went with Bilstein hd's. I also noticed that the balance tube had become detached from one side of the power steering gear and some fluid had leaked out. I put it back on. So now the harshness of road cracks is gone, the front end is a bit quieter, but that wandering and vibration is still happening on the hwy.

So I'd like to know:

What would be the next step to further dampen the road cracks and quiet things up a bit more? I cannot find anything else under the front of the van with play in it. What would I be looking at next?

In terms of the wandering steering issue, aside from checking my ATF fluid level in the power steering fluid reservoir (which I can't find) are there any other checks I can do on the steering? I often use this camper to go on windsurfing trips, and drive in major crosswinds...so right now it's downright SCARY to drive with this wandering steering issue, and my steering wheel is often cranked more than a 1/4 of the way around to counteract the force of a strong crosswind.

[JeffRobenolt]

If you are doing the upper ball joints you might as well do the lowers, same with the control arm bushings. And strut bushings?

Since you need to get it aligned you might as well do it all.

You may have a bent rim or separated belts on the tire.
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[shorepig]

[the caveman]

i would imagine those tires should be tough enough to take a small shot like that, however i've seen more than one vehicle with the symptoms you describe due to a damaged tire. As an example i had changed everything on the front of my father's rabbit. A few months later he had a flat and so we put the spare on. A couple of months after i was driving it and it feel and sounded like the r/f shock was completely shot. I got around to checking it, couldn't find anything,plus i checked the tire if it was out of round, had bulges etc. Didn't see anything obvious. Figured the shock was defective[it really seemed like the culprit]. Instead we put the winter tires on[my father didn't care about the problem, he was only using it to drive to the store], and problem gone. Only when i had the tire off and rolled it could you see the distortion in the belt.

[Christopher Schimke]

Damaged tire/wheel
Poor alignment
Damaged steering rack or transfer box
Bent suspension component (should show up during the alignment)
Loose wheel bearings

A damaged tire usually won't make a vehicle "wander" as much as "pull" to one side. Poor alignment (including bent suspension components) can cause a wander, pull or both. Vibration can be caused by loose/damaged wheel bearings, damaged/out of balance tire or wheel. Vibrations are rarely caused by a poor alignment.

With the van on the ground, engine off, how much "play" is in the steering wheel when turned back and forth? Is there any audible "clunk" sound? excessive movement and/or noises would indicate worn steering components: steering rack, transfer box, tie rod ends, steering shaft coupler(s), steering rack bushings, etc..

Provided everything else is in good order and considering your stated components, harshness felt through the seat of your pants/heard through your ears is usually caused by tires or tire pressures.
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[BCWesty]

For the lower ball joints you could use your pickle fork, but you'll probably end up wrecking th boot. There is a tool that looks like a two jaw puller that presses on the threaded stud to pop out the joint. This tool won't damage the boot. I would get an alignment done as well. good luck

[Vanagon Nut]

I am in the middle of replacing front end parts. A mysterious intermittent clunk and what felt like intermittent play in steering at centre while on the highway, prompted me to inspect things.

Check the radius arm (strut arm) bushings. Mine were so worn on passenger side that arm wore through the metal sleeve, rubber bushing and into subframe causing hole to oval a little. I'm pretty sure this was the cause of the clunk and what felt like play in steering.

Other sources for play in steering?

Rack. Rack bushings. Steering couplers. Tie rod inner/outer ends. Play in transfer gear.

Lower BJ needs to be pressed out and new pressed in. I'd reccomend taking them to a shop with proper tools.

Lower control arm bushing can be pressed out/in at home. I used threaded rod, exhaust pipe piece, washers, socket, RTV, and smaller piece of exhaust pipe to guide new bushing while being pressed in.

Hope that helps,

Neil.
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1988 West DIY 50º ABA

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[shorepig]

Ok, just check out Gunther's ailments again:

Answers to some questions:

The vibration - I'm an idiot, the vibrations are because of my bad cv's, so that's an unrelated subject.

Play in steering - There is no play in the steering when van is off and I turn the wheel side to side. There are also no apparent noises, clunks when fully turning the steering wheel side to side.

As well, there is a slight pull to the left when driving, and the loosness felt when on the highway happens mostly when the van becomes unweighted. The front of the van wanders one way or the other when the weight of the van becomes unsprung.

I realize now it could simply need an alignment, and an alignment will also tell me whether or not something else is in need of replacement. BUT, if that's the case, I will have to replace another part, then get ANOTHER ALIGNMENT DONE afterwards...so that would be another $100! Oh well, C'est la vie!