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Dometic electronic ignition problem
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 2:41 pm    Post subject: Dometic electronic ignition problem Reply with quote

I'm stumped. Sorry if this has been covered numerous times, but I cannot find any direct reference to this situation. Thanks in advance.

I have removed the RM182B from my '91 Westy. It worked fine on 110v and 12v, but like a lot others, will not light on LP. The piezo iginition cable is partially frayed and disconnected down at the burner unit. It looks like this unit has an electronic ignition since there is no piezo unit behind the air chamber. It's a black box behind the mode selection buttons on the front (RV 681 TUV DVGW). My questions are:

1. How can I bench test a new piezo unit with this electronic ignition? All the help online is related to standard piezo lighters.

2. Once #1 is answered, can I use the piezo off my Weber grill for the bench test?

3. Where can I get a proper piezo replacement?

Thank you.
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Answered my own questions.

The piezo from my Weber to bench test the fridge on LP won't work b/c the electrode is not positioned correctly in the burn chamber. I was able to borrow the Weber manual piezo ignition unit to test whether the current cable/electrode produced a spark -- it did not. Time for a new one.

I obtained a part no. from BusBoys and will call in the morning to see if the whole spark plug ignition piezo whatchacallit thing is still available. I hope it doesn't need a new electronic piezo ignitor unit -- those list for $278!

Currently have the fridge out of the van and kind of like the added space. If the $27 part doesn't fix it, I'll convert to some shelves and reattach the fridge outer door.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even a good cooler and ice will suffice for a few days at a time.

But, I'll bet it's the the electrode/wire piece itself, that is the culprit.

Though not the same, on my old 182A, the actual wire itself from piezo push button to electrode, was at fault.

Compressor type fridges are not a bad idea IMO.

Neil.
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll also look at the TruckFridge option over at Westy Ventures. I spent the weekend researching aux. battery installs. There's too much info out there with just as many opinions about whether you can use the existing stock relay behind the driver's seat, GW solenoid kit, Hella relay kit, and use of an islolator. And, even with looking at diagrams, I'm still not sure how to actually run the wires and fuse box, etc... Maybe I need to take a break and come back to reread all the info obtained so far. Any help here is greatly appreciated.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

singler3360 wrote:
I'll also look at the TruckFridge option over at Westy Ventures. I spent the weekend researching aux. battery installs. There's too much info out there with just as many opinions about whether you can use the existing stock relay behind the driver's seat, GW solenoid kit, Hella relay kit, and use of an islolator. And, even with looking at diagrams, I'm still not sure how to actually run the wires and fuse box, etc... Maybe I need to take a break and come back to reread all the info obtained so far. Any help here is greatly appreciated.



FWIW, I'm using a standard FLAPS relay to isolate starter and house battery. No problems for last 2 years running this with a smaller 44 amp house battery.

Yes lots of options and lots to learn. Maybe check out the image gallery here. I find pics really help. There are also tables etc. to calculate wire gauge and possibly ones to help determine what fuse to use for a given component(s)



Neil.
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1988 West DIY 50º ABA

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singler3360
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vangaon Nut:
I'm not sure what a FLAPS relay is, but do you find it hard to start at times when the house battery is run down? I'm told an isolator or in-line switch would remedy this situation. I could see this only being a problem if you run a compressor fridge on 12V for a few days, or equivalent. What is your setup and has this ever been an issue? Thx.


Vanagon Nut wrote:
singler3360 wrote:
I'll also look at the TruckFridge option over at Westy Ventures. I spent the weekend researching aux. battery installs. There's too much info out there with just as many opinions about whether you can use the existing stock relay behind the driver's seat, GW solenoid kit, Hella relay kit, and use of an islolator. And, even with looking at diagrams, I'm still not sure how to actually run the wires and fuse box, etc... Maybe I need to take a break and come back to reread all the info obtained so far. Any help here is greatly appreciated.



FWIW, I'm using a standard FLAPS relay to isolate starter and house battery. No problems for last 2 years running this with a smaller 44 amp house battery.

Yes lots of options and lots to learn. Maybe check out the image gallery here. I find pics really help. There are also tables etc. to calculate wire gauge and possibly ones to help determine what fuse to use for a given component(s)



Neil.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

singler3360 wrote:
Vangaon Nut:
I'm not sure what a FLAPS relay is, but do you find it hard to start at times when the house battery is run down? I'm told an isolator or in-line switch would remedy this situation. I could see this only being a problem if you run a compressor fridge on 12V for a few days, or equivalent. What is your setup and has this ever been an issue? Thx.




FLAPS = friendly local auto parts store

The relay I used is a standard 12V automotive type relay that a FLAPS would sell (sorry can't recall brand)

This relay does exactly what you are curious about. It isolates the house battery from the starter battery. i.e. engine off: relay off, no connection between batteries. Engine on: relay on, connection established between batteries so both charge from alternator. This relay acts the same way as a switch would.

In the stock Westfalia, ('82 + ?) there is *likely* a relay in area under the driver seat. This is sometimes called the "fridge relay". It is for the Dometic fridge. It carries + to fridge. And if I'm reading Bentley correctly, it seems it's likely this relay is on when vehicle running. This is to prevent useage of Dometic on 12V with vehicle not running. (it would drain the battery in a heart beat otherwise) IF the wiring is stock and unmolested, and no house battery installed, it's useful to understand what this relay is for. Of note, on the '80-'81 Westys, the "fridge relay" is most likely on the fridge itself.

I've never had an issue with the starter battery getting drained.

My setup ('81 Westy):

#10 wire from + of starter battery to isolator relay, #10 wire from relay to house battery. The blue wire from alternator triggers the relay on. I also installed a fuse inline.

Here is a basic diagram (it makes mention of fuses)

http://www.keithandsylvia.co.uk/tech%20pages/splitcharge.htm

this diagram shows the fuse(s) position mentioned

http://www.keithandsylvia.co.uk/tech%20pages/fridge_split_charge.htm

Have a look through the archives or google. I'll bet there are some pics or diagrams that would show what I mean. Just use correct parts, correct gauge wiring and fuse things.

Cheers,

Neil.
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the post.
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porterbrown
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a way to energize the electric igniter from the bench so that a true test can be performed?

I'm going through the fridge in a recently bought '90 westy and would like to do a thorough bench test of the fridge's LP system.

Thanks!
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spitsnrovers
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you feed the fridge with 12V and propane, as it would get in the vehicle, there is no reason why it can not be run on a workshop bench. I have done both the older manual spark igniter and newer electronic ones on a bench.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bookmarked this thread. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=509217

As you read down, a member posted an upgrade to the ignitor that is pretty complete. I intend to do something similar next time the fridge is out. mark
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:39 am    Post subject: Got ICE! Reply with quote

I just removed a fridge with electronic ignition and replaced it with one of the older models with Piezzo ignition.

I went to a hose shop, and bought a hose to connect a 1 lb propane bottle to the fridge while I had it out, hoping to "bench test".. well, I would need a regulator too, and a battery hookup..

so I cleaned out the burner boxes and bench tested IN the van, which is a major pain to install and remove the fridge..

but I ended up with a working fridge of the older Piezzo ignition type. I prefer these, because when the ones with electronic ignition go out, the electronic ignition keeps sparking, non stop.. you can hear it outside the van ticking… very aggravating..

my fridge test overnight produced ICE!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Im satisfied with the stock fridge, Im not interested in getting into solar panels to keep the second battery charged, to power an expensive battery operated fridge. There is no denying that the cooling power of a Battery operated fridge is superior to the stock unit, if you have a spare $1000 burning a hole in your pocket..

fwiw, the resident fridge expert here is member name DLJ, maybe PM him and ask what he would charge to ship you a working fridge (or the parts you need).. That's what I was going to do if my 3 fridge adventure had failed..
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