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1978 Westfalia Cabinet Refacing FAQ
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Emeritusx
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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Atlantis wrote:
I got it all off and it was a pain in the ass. That shit gets hot and is sharp, like you said.

Crappy! I used an iron and just followed it slowly underneath with a drywall knife. worked great.

I was never ran into the issues of burning the wood at all. But the plastic trims if not removed will get melted real fast.

I sanded it all down. I then used plastic wood to fill in spots where the glue pulled up some of the wood. It looks good now.


I just can not decide what color to stain it now. I have the panels stained red chestnut by minwax, and I think the headliner will be the same if I decide to go with a wood headliner. If not the headliner will be black diamond tuck.

I fear if I stain the camp interior the same color as the panels thats going to be too much red chestnut. I also have no idea what the color of the laminate floor is going to be either. Def not a light wood color but more a medium or darker as well.

This is a big decision cause once you stain it, you aint goin back.


I had a problem with stain, residual glue made it look like sh!t. Hence I went with the tie-dye look
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


But everything I did could be easily hidden by laminate (that black line is a wire to my stereo audio in by big cab)

I took the laminate off the cooler and storage box also. Am working on the crappy paper wood panels, did not want to remove the one on the ashtray side as its still in good shape, but the rear was shot, so:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Andre4
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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went with Formica's Sovereign cherry when I recovered the vanagon kitchen unit in my camper. Again it's not a perfect match but I redid the door panel, rear door panel and side panels besides the seats and it came together pretty well...

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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Emeritusx wrote:
Atlantis wrote:
I got it all off and it was a pain in the ass. That shit gets hot and is sharp, like you said.

Crappy! I used an iron and just followed it slowly underneath with a drywall knife. worked great.

I was never ran into the issues of burning the wood at all. But the plastic trims if not removed will get melted real fast.

I sanded it all down. I then used plastic wood to fill in spots where the glue pulled up some of the wood. It looks good now.


I just can not decide what color to stain it now. I have the panels stained red chestnut by minwax, and I think the headliner will be the same if I decide to go with a wood headliner. If not the headliner will be black diamond tuck.

I fear if I stain the camp interior the same color as the panels thats going to be too much red chestnut. I also have no idea what the color of the laminate floor is going to be either. Def not a light wood color but more a medium or darker as well.

This is a big decision cause once you stain it, you aint goin back.


I had a problem with stain, residual glue made it look like sh!t. Hence I went with the tie-dye look
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


But everything I did could be easily hidden by laminate (that black line is a wire to my stereo audio in by big cab)

I took the laminate off the cooler and storage box also. Am working on the crappy paper wood panels, did not want to remove the one on the ashtray side as its still in good shape, but the rear was shot, so:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


a little late to the party but how well did you sand it down before staining it Emeritusx?
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Emeritusx
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, after I pulled the laminate off the cooler and storage bin and one cupboard I said "this sucks" or something like that. I tried stain on the cupboard (I like that word -cupboard-) I probably didnt even hit it that hard with sandpaper, its pretty cheesy wood. Ultimately I would like to cover it with urethane like those tables made out of stumps.

So no I didnt sand it much, but the stain looked like sh t (imo) (it was walnut)

To seal the wood on the cooler and storage I coated it with oil based white paint, the old wood drank it right up, took 3 coats to get it smooth. The white I rolled on.

The panels with the paper wood grain I replaced with waterproof fiberglass (14 bucks for 4*8 by 1/8th or 3/16th) The fiberglass (white with texture (little bumps) looks real good. Paints real nice too.

Better late than never... Smile
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yopacific
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 7:29 am    Post subject: Made my decision Reply with quote

I'm going with #6208 Glamour Cherry for the cabinets. Instead of just doing the spare tire cover I'm going to do all the vertical doors and small drawer for consistency. Basically all of the front.......

1 4x8 sheet is $59.00 at my local distributor.......Adhesive is $10.00

The iron does work, you can simultaneously iron and peel back at the same time when the temp gets up there.....use steam option. Most def take the pieces out of the bus.

Thanks for all of the input Team Samba........
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Emeritusx wrote:
Well, after I pulled the laminate off the cooler and storage bin and one cupboard I said "this sucks" or something like that. I tried stain on the cupboard (I like that word -cupboard-) I probably didnt even hit it that hard with sandpaper, its pretty cheesy wood. Ultimately I would like to cover it with urethane like those tables made out of stumps.

So no I didnt sand it much, but the stain looked like sh t (imo) (it was walnut)

To seal the wood on the cooler and storage I coated it with oil based white paint, the old wood drank it right up, took 3 coats to get it smooth. The white I rolled on.

The panels with the paper wood grain I replaced with waterproof fiberglass (14 bucks for 4*8 by 1/8th or 3/16th) The fiberglass (white with texture (little bumps) looks real good. Paints real nice too.

Better late than never... Smile


lol, we should hang sometime dude, i doubt we'de get much done but it'd be fun, lol your work habits are akin to mine. lol. Laughing
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Emeritusx
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always needed a reason to see the north west, last time I was in Seattle Nixon was pres..., maybe Ford, 'ts been awhile. ended up in Boise though working for some gypsy's at a car lot as a shagger. It rained so much I left a tent somewhere in Washington, still pitched - full of water. Hitchhiking in either direction just to get out of the rain, so Boise it was...

I really want to do the shasta snow trip, it was the whole reason I bought the 66, even put a CB in it. Its ready for the trip, so maybe this winter.

Anyway I'll tell you what, I can do in a week what anyone can do in a day Smile I do get sidetracked a lot...
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The Volkswagen Ranch
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:06 pm    Post subject: Laminate repair Reply with quote

I am trying to remove the cracked laminate from my 2nd drawer down...bought a heat gun..but have a question...do I need to somehow remove the plastic drawer before I heat the formica? I have donor formica (OEM) but do not want to (melt) the plastic drawer...kindly let me know what I need to do...Bob
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Westfabulous
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Laminate repair Reply with quote

ashley1 wrote:
I am trying to remove the cracked laminate from my 2nd drawer down...bought a heat gun..but have a question...do I need to somehow remove the plastic drawer before I heat the formica? I have donor formica (OEM) but do not want to (melt) the plastic drawer...kindly let me know what I need to do...Bob


It couldn't hurt, but if you are getting it so hot that you are damaging the drawer, then you are getting it too hot. Better safe than sorry if in doubt.
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Mike Boell
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a flat steel putty knife and a harbor freight heat gun. Start in one corner heating until you can start the edge of the putty knife. As the glue starts to give you slowly worked your way across preheating the area ahead of you. I did my intire 1975 westy cabinets with glamour cherry. One "L" of a lot of work but it looks beautiful.
Mike
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The Volkswagen Ranch
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 6:56 pm    Post subject: removing formica Reply with quote

Westfabulos and Mike,

Thank you for your replies.I bought he heat gun from Harbor Freight, and have not used yet...Will try this weekend with your relevant replies...cannot figue how to remove the drawer front from the plastic drawer anyway..thanks again,Bob
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 7:24 am    Post subject: Westy Black Rubber Cabinet Trim Needed Reply with quote

I've got the interior out of my 1978 Westy. Everything is sanded and ready to be re-laminated and put back together. In pulling things apart some of the black rubber trim pieces got a bit mangled and I'd like to find a replacement that is as close as possible. Has anyone had any luck finding something to replace this trim:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm sorry if this isn't the right place to post this. I've been lurking for a couple of years on the Samba (thanks for all the advice and great tutorials!) but still haven't got the knack for posting things.
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 7:46 am    Post subject: Re: Westy Black Rubber Cabinet Trim Needed Reply with quote

sherpa7200 wrote:
I've got the interior out of my 1978 Westy. Everything is sanded and ready to be re-laminated and put back together. In pulling things apart some of the black rubber trim pieces got a bit mangled and I'd like to find a replacement that is as close as possible. Has anyone had any luck finding something to replace this trim:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm sorry if this isn't the right place to post this. I've been lurking for a couple of years on the Samba (thanks for all the advice and great tutorials!) but still haven't got the knack for posting things.


It's a long shot but you could try emailing those pictures to [email protected] Chris may have some of that laying around.
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Chris_914
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two things come to mind, fender welting like on a bug or the similiar corner edging/beading used in upholstery.
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 12:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Westy Black Rubber Cabinet Trim Needed Reply with quote

sherpa7200 wrote:
I've got the interior out of my 1978 Westy. Everything is sanded and ready to be re-laminated and put back together. In pulling things apart some of the black rubber trim pieces got a bit mangled and I'd like to find a replacement that is as close as possible. Has anyone had any luck finding something to replace this trim:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm sorry if this isn't the right place to post this. I've been lurking for a couple of years on the Samba (thanks for all the advice and great tutorials!) but still haven't got the knack for posting things.


Try here:

http://www.reprowesty.com/index.php?id=webshop/product/2/60&lan=uk
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 1:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Westy Black Rubber Cabinet Trim Needed Reply with quote

sherpa7200 wrote:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm sorry if this isn't the right place to post this. I've been lurking for a couple of years on the Samba (thanks for all the advice and great tutorials!) but still haven't got the knack for posting things.



that paticular edging that is pictured is generic and can be found anywhere...

if you need "T-molding"
i have several original used pieces
i also have a decent supply of "brand new" T-molding (black & white !)
that is almost exactly the same spec as the original T-mold
that im willing to offer for half the retail price

just pm me..........
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting ready to reface my cabinets too, found that Wilsonart has a few close matches,
I think the Walnuts are the closest match currently, followed by the Mahagony.

Windsor Mahogany
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Walnut Heights
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English Oak
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Montana Walnut
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If I were to order 4 X 8 sheets, how many sheets would I need?
I've NEVER done this before, and am not really sure what the best way to measure is.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how many sheets you need will depend on how you
go about cutting the laminate

the 1 thing that always messes up peoples calculations
is the direction of grain
you can get 6 pieces of 20x30 out of a 4 x 8 sheet of laminate
but you can only get 4 30x20 out of the same 4x8 sheet

your abillty to cut a 20 x 30 out of a sheet
without cutting all the way accross a 4 x 8 sheet
will also determine how many sheets you need

when i did my cabinets a few years back
i spent days drawing out how each and every single piece
would be cut then doulble checking that the grain was correct
after that i cut all the laminate, some cuts with a table saw,some cuts with
a router in order to get the best yeild

you need to do the same thing

last, laminate should be cut about 1/2 an inch to 1 inch over-sized
depending on how good you are when laying up lam
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 7:51 am    Post subject: Re: 1978 Westfalia Cabinet Refacing FAQ Reply with quote

I pulled our interior out last fall. Then over the winter began removing laminate. All of it was damaged in one place or another so we decided to go with a color change as well.

To remove it I used a 3" stiff putty knife and a heat gun. Take your time. The laminate IS Brittle and Sharp. Then sanded the plywood and applied the new laminate using contact cement. Then used the router with an edge bit to trim it all out. Just like you'd do in the kitchen.

Overall for all the cabinets, stripping, sanding, edging it took @ 2 weeks. I did it while I was home and work was shut down.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 6:31 pm    Post subject: Re: 1978 Westfalia Cabinet Refacing FAQ Reply with quote

Okay! This thread should have an answer to my query.
I’m working on a 1978 Westfalia. Time and damp has some of the surfaces delaminating from the cabinets.

I am trying to find out if I should just stick down the places that are pulled up? Or is there a better way to approach this? I don’t want to make it look half assed.

Is contact cement the way to go? Or is there a better adhesive?

I’ll take any suggestions. After reading this thread, I’m wondering if fully removing the laminate and re-adhering it would be better?
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