drag race CV joints

[vwracerdave]

Which are stronger for drag racing. I have both Type IV/Thing CV's or Type II Bus?
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2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[The Noof]

I would say it's a coin toss,but 930's are rated the best.

[bpcatdog]

Aren't the Type IV, Thing, and Type II cv's the same?

[vwracerdave]

They are the same on the outside. They are different on the inside. Type IV and type II have different size balls/cages on the inside. Thus my question which is stronger for drag racing?

Thing use type IV cv joints.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[bpcatdog]

You know, I didn't realize that. I'm using 944 axles and CV's for my Manx style drag buggy with Thing drive flanges and 944 stub axles. Now, I'm wondering if they'll be up to the task.... Well, we'll soon find out. I figure, if there are guys using type 1 CV's with sucess in their race cars, the bigger CV's should be fine but again there are a lot of factors to consider.

[Beetspeed]

Apperently, the 100mm type IV, T2 bus CV's are good to about 400-450 hp... bfore you 'need the larger 110mm porsche CV's (930's).
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'75 SB 1303 2,4ltr T4 turbo: 10.58 @ 129.9mph
'65 Ruska buggy 1192cc EFI 80hp N/A

[JCQuick]

Type 4 has 20mm balls type 2 has 19mm balls.
I run type 4 with chrome molly cages

[[email protected]]

What I've found is that the Type 4, and Type 181 "Thing" joints have the same size balls around .6875/17.5mm, and the Type 2 joints have the larger .787/20mm. I've found aftermarket Type 2 joints that use a .750 ball. From everyone I've ever spoken using the "Thing" joints, they feel that they hold up better due to the ball being smaller, and the cage being thicker. Bruce T. once noted that it's usually the angle that kills the joint, as opposed to the HP. If you need joints for your buggy with lots of wheel travel, then even a 1600 can break a Type 2 joint if it binds. The buggy guys usually need the "thing"/930 joints for their greater angle of axle deflection. If your needing joints for your IRS drag car that has the axle pretty much parallel to the ground, going straight into the joint, Type 2 joints will take quite a bit of abuse. The "Thing" joints will even take more abuse. Richie Webb in the UK uses a stock "Thing" joint on his Turbo Vert that runs in the 9's. I would use your Type 4/"Thing" joints with chromoly cages, and that should be good to 500 HP if you don't have much axle deflection.

[JCQuick]

[AndyBees]

[mark tucker]

so witch is stronger? and can you get the chromoly cages for both sizes?although 3 sizes are listed in this thread,Ive only seen 2 of them.as for strenth I think it's the cage that limits that portion of the joint.and the foot on the clutch&gass.

[RailBoy]

Have a quick question for those who may know.....

Other than drag racing starts included, what is the Horse Power Cut Off on a Type 1 Motor before you go for the other CV Joints?

Mean, I do not plan on doing burn outs with my Super, but from a Rolling Start and Foot Right into it, what HP is the Cut Off before blowing apart Type 1 CV's?

Just concerned for down the road, working on a Super Project and Engine and Trans will be last. So, this thread has me wondering when you need to upgrade CV's on a Bug/Super? RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

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[RailBoy]

Cool, hear about the splines ripping out every now and then on here...

On my Rail i run Thing, inner and outer, so I don't sweat that car.... RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[mark tucker]

the ones rancho had bigger balls that the bus ones I had.

[SamT]

At very mild angles you wilk break a stock axle before a type 1 CV. After 10 degrees type 1 gets weak. I run the empi offroad type 2 CV joints, they are awesome. 200HP and 16.50 comp cut paddles, im at 24*.

[modok]

I and my buddies have broke a lot of CV joints, but never an axle.
Old CV joints will break because they often have a spot in the travel with a lot of wear, and it hangs up on that. I think some new ones break because they are too tight. I put a few together extra loose with used cages and smoothed the grooves for the bores so they have a lot more play than new ones, and those have been working great, I don't really know why it makes any difference, but it does somehow. Type-1 can handle a lot especially if you mix and match a bunch of em and find the best, and weed out the weak ones by....you know, blowing them up

[mark tucker]

you must realy like worken on your stuff.

[vwracerdave]

I'll update since I started this post. On my Ghia with 160 HP 2165cc I upgraded to Thing CV's and axles because I was breaking Bug CV's at the drags with slicks. So far I have not had any failures.

On my street legal Dunebuggy with 120 HP 2007cc I still run Bug CV's and run M/T ET drag radials and still break a CV about one a year. I still use them as the weak link because I have a pile of 20 and it is much cheaper then breaking a transaxle.

The only time I have ever broken any CV joint was launching off the line at the drags. I have never brokes a stock axle.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[SamT]

I must be a wierdo, I snap an axle every now and then, and bust 2nd gear. Never broke a ring or pinion and rarely a CV.