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vdub Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2003 Posts: 442 Location: Valley Springs, Ca.
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Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:31 pm Post subject: German fenders |
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I am sure this is a stupid question but how can you visually identify German fenders.
I know theres a few tricks and I can't remember them all.
I remember one of them is the transition from the headlight to the outer edge of the fender has that S shape. |
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substock Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2007 Posts: 69 Location: MC, IA
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Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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Another way is the lip running over the wheel well will typically have more "drain" holes on the German ones than repros. Also the German Fenders just feel more substantial than many repros. _________________ 1963 Beetle Convertible...almost finished
1965 Beetle Convertible...nice patina great color
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible Project in waiting
1970 Beetle..My first car! under slow restoration
1973 Super Beetle 1303 Convertible...next priority
1976 Super Beetle 1303 Convertible..great original |
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vdub Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2003 Posts: 442 Location: Valley Springs, Ca.
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Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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substock wrote: |
Another way is the lip running over the wheel well will typically have more "drain" holes on the German ones than repros. Also the German Fenders just feel more substantial than many repros. |
I think I read that. I have been searching the forums.
The Germans have 4 holes right?
Also I read that on repo fenders the edge bend will not be smooth all the way around. It will have wrinkles in it.
I also read that the fit at the rear apron is to long, however, I am looking for a way to tell with the fenders off the car. |
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hitest Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2008 Posts: 10296 Location: Prime Meridian, ID
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Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:58 pm Post subject: german vs. brazilian |
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Another trick if it is off the car- hold it perpendicular to the ground and twist it by hand with the running board end between your feet (no really). The German will offer little twist- even if the Brazilian fender closely matches the contours. The cheap fender will twist like a pretzel.
The radius of most cheap fenders at the fender lip is abrupt- where the Germans are more gradual- a look down the profile will show a marked difference. If you can, use a contour guage (the wood-working tool that helps replicate and duplicate contours) to acquire the contour of a known good fender- right at the "high noon" of the radius. cut out a cardboard sample to match- then you have a guage with which to judge everybody else's crappy So American fenders! _________________
EverettB wrote: |
I wonder what the nut looks like.
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'62 L390 151, '62 L469 117, '63 L380 113, '64 L87 311, '65 L512 265, '65 L31 SO-42, '66 L360 251, '68 L30k 141, '71 L12 113, '74 ORG 181
FU#5 |
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vdub Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2003 Posts: 442 Location: Valley Springs, Ca.
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Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:05 pm Post subject: Re: german vs. brazilian |
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hitest wrote: |
Another trick if it is off the car- hold it perpendicular to the ground and twist it by hand with the running board end between your feet (no really). The German will offer little twist- even if the Brazilian fender closely matches the contours. The cheap fender will twist like a pretzel.
The radius of most cheap fenders at the fender lip is abrupt- where the Germans are more gradual- a look down the profile will show a marked difference. If you can, use a contour guage (the wood-working tool that helps replicate and duplicate contours) to acquire the contour of a known good fender- right at the "high noon" of the radius. cut out a cardboard sample to match- then you have a guage with which to judge everybody else's crappy So American fenders! |
Good tips thanks. |
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