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Rock N Roll bed measurements / how to (z bed)
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good. I see your seat base comes behind the front of the base, did you add additional support to hold up the passenger? Please post your measurements when your done so others who use your hinges will be able to follow along. Cool
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herbie555
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 12:15 pm    Post subject: Hinges really stiff? Reply with quote

Thread resurrection time:

I finally got off the fence and ordered a set of these hinges from Bus Depot, and now I have a question:

Were anybody (or everybody) else's hinges REALLY stiff? Like almost impossible to pivot through the motion?

I had to put one into a vice and really lean into it to even begin to get the linkages to move through their arc. Almost like all the rivets are too tight. Mostly worried that I got a bum pair.


I imagine things will be a bit easier once everything is bolted to a box and I have the leverage of a full seat attached, but I was hoping to move the linkage through it's motions to take some measurements first. Maybe I'll have to build a miniature "sample" bed box or something.

Thanks.
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durfeec
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yes. Mine were extremely stiff out of the box. Once you get them bolted to the frame and use the leverage of the seat bottom to move them, they are normal. They are still a little stiff but at least my seat isnt moving on its own. Dont worry. They are worth the money and yours are fine.
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awalls
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since this thread is back:

Anyone have and estimate for cost to make cushions? Just a ball park would be great. Thanks.
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spent about $225.
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Scooterboyd
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just purchased 4" foam 54"x72" (Full size Bed)for $168. Vinyl is $12 yd. Piping and labor TBD.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought some nice high density, super comfortable 3" thick foam for right about $100 from a local foam store.
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rpm750
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found some stock hinges at the swap and they are almost the same as the new ones you used Dean. I used your measurements and they were spot on. Good times as yo bro says. Can't wait to meet ya face to face in June. Glenn and I are close buds along with Shaky!

Thanks for all the leg work!
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpm750 wrote:
I found some stock hinges at the swap and they are almost the same as the new ones you used Dean. I used your measurements and they were spot on. Good times as yo bro says. Can't wait to meet ya face to face in June. Glenn and I are close buds along with Shaky!

Thanks for all the leg work!


Awesome! Thanks, and see you soon.
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sfleet75
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 9:57 pm    Post subject: q for OP Reply with quote

question for OP: I am going to swap out existing bench seat in order to build a bed like you showed, and I have a question:

in the pic where you have the actual bottom piece of the bed bolted into the floor of the bus body, the bolt is shown as though it were coming up from the bottom (i.e. head not shown, tail and nut facing up). how do you bolt this from under the vehicle? or is this not how you did it? sorry, never done this before, and am trying to cover my bases here.

also, as for mounting the hinges to the actual floor/wheel well as well, did you just use self-tapping screws to go into the floor metal so as not to need to bolt from underneath, or did you have to do the latter?

thanks

steven
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the floor, I cut a rectangle where my t-bolts install to hold down the OG seat, and the t-bolt slides in as originally designed, add a large fender washer and it installs easy.

For the hinges, you will need to drill a hole and use a nut and bolt with large washers on each side. In my case, I used existing seat belt bolts, but if I didn't have them, i would have had to drill.
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patban82
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone come up with a rock n roll bed for a dc. That would be awesome!!! Laughing
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

patban82 wrote:
Can anyone come up with a rock n roll bed for a dc. That would be awesome!!! Laughing


every DC comes with a bed, it is 6 ft, and if equipped with a nice canopy makes for a great camper...
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mandraks wrote:
patban82 wrote:
Can anyone come up with a rock n roll bed for a dc. That would be awesome!!! Laughing


every DC comes with a bed, it is 6 ft, and if equipped with a nice canopy makes for a great camper...


The Double Cab bed is kind of short to sleep in, I have done it.
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Heathintexas
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:01 am    Post subject: Rock and Roll bed Reply with quote

Thanks EDragnDean for the Walkthrough! I used it to build mine yesterday.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I just have one problem that I hope someone here could assist with. When I roll the seat out into the bed, the board closest to the front of the bus doesn't seem to hold more than 30kg with out flexing like crazy. I was hoping to be able to sit at least 200kg(3 people) on the end so it could still act like a chair while in bed mode.

Is this part only able to support the wait of feet when a person is laid out, or should I expect it to be more sturdy?

I used 3/4 inch pine plywood and also the JK hinge kit.
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Ernie Punkin
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 10:43 pm    Post subject: propping up the end board Reply with quote

Just one quick but slightly odd idea....

What if you use 3 of the readily available adjustable height fold out table legs? Space them between the hinges?

Check JustKampers.com for a few options. Also at other sites, including RV sites and Vanagon later model VW parts sites.

Don't know their weight limit, but I'm thinking they'd mostly help when sleeping with the bed down too. Likely there will be some weight on that end when climbing in and out.

The smallest model doesn't have a very long throw as it's designed for installation on the underside of the the front dash mount table.

When in the bench seat position, they'd be neatly attached to the underside of the bench seat board - inside the box.

To use to prop up your "headboard" or "footboard" just pull them out, snap into place, and adjust the height as needed.

Heck, if someone needs to sleep with their head elevated (as might be the case for a few of us aging baby boomer camping fans Laughing ), then the adjustable height legs could provide a bit of slope or lift for one end of the bed, if you purchase them with an appropriate height range. This would work if you tuck your feet into the rear window end of the bed.

To keep from losing pillows on to the camper floor, use one of the long GoWesty cargo nets hooked up to a side wall or something.

Have I just described a camping crib for adults? Kinda crazy, but practical?
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Last edited by Ernie Punkin on Wed Dec 10, 2014 7:18 am; edited 1 time in total
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 6:35 am    Post subject: Re: Rock and Roll bed Reply with quote

Heathintexas wrote:
Thanks EDragnDean for the Walkthrough! I used it to build mine yesterday.

I just have one problem that I hope someone here could assist with. When I roll the seat out into the bed, the board closest to the front of the bus doesn't seem to hold more than 30kg with out flexing like crazy. I was hoping to be able to sit at least 200kg(3 people) on the end so it could still act like a chair while in bed mode.

Is this part only able to support the wait of feet when a person is laid out, or should I expect it to be more sturdy?

I used 3/4 inch pine plywood and also the JK hinge kit.


I added a 90 degree piece of angle iron to the bottom of the seat board. Adds more rigidity to the seat base also so it doesn't dip in bench mode. Shows in the original photos.

Ernie -- interesting idea on the table legs, that might work.

I'm thinking if Heathintexas wants more front support, ie a seat in the horizontal, start with the angle iron. Then use a piano hinge set up and add 3/4 plywood that folds off the bottom of the seat or out from the seat base.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a really great writeup. Thanks! I was originally trying to find zbed hinges to install on my existing rear seat, but maybe I will have to try this if I can't. My one question is, how does this work with seatbelts? I have a 7 month old son in a car seat and the one advantage of the stock bed might be safety for that?
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seat belts mount to the fire wall, same as a standard seat belt install. Mine have belts no problem. For a 7 month old, you would probably need to add a top point attachment for the child seat.

There are a couple write ups on child seat installs and seat belt installs. Be careful not to put a hole in your fuel tank.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for having a fantastic write up and thread. I am considering going to the full width from the three quarter bed and will use this thread to guide me.

I saw that HeathinTexas was also creating his own rear facing seat to go with this. Has any one else done this or have dimensions?
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