loose wheel studs

ackspyder · Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:04 pm Post subject: loose wheel studs

I'm afraid I committed a carndinal sin and used a pneumatic impact wrench to put my new 16 rims on my rear wheels and in doing so ended up with a grinding noise in my left rear drum. I got the drum off and discovered two pieces of small metal fragments floating around in the drum. They are reminants of where two wheel stud heads were tack welded to the inside of the wheel hub. The wheel studs now spin freely. The splines appear to be fine, and the holes are slightly enlarged, hense the spinning. Can I just remove the hub and spot weld them to secure them ( as they were before) or do I need a new hub with secure studs? Anyone ever have this problem? I did a search and found nothing that spoke to this specifically. Thanks

Tracey · Samba Member Joined: November 22, 2008 Posts: 161

It almost sounds like you re broke something a PO might have done. I don't believe any of the wheel studs were welded in. From time to time these will break and need replacing, the norm is to remove wheel and using a hammer and block or suitable tool you can just pound them out and the new ones are simply pressed into the old spot.
I might be wrong so don't take my word for it, check the other side as well. A new or good used hub won't be the worst to install, maybe also a good time to go deeper and repack or replace rear wheel bearings as well.
Tracey

ackspyder · Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:29 pm Post subject:

I guess I'm off searching for a new hub with new studs. The more I think about it, it's not worth repeating the same half-ass repair. Thanks for the advise.

85_Westy · Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 8:13 pm Post subject:

FWIW, depending on where you look, those lugs should be torqued to either 123 ft/lbs or 133 ft/lbs.

For the past 18 years I've torqued my lugs (both front and rear) to 125 ft/lbs and have never had any problems.

Typically, tire shops will over torque the lugs so when I get home I use my impact wrench or a big breaker bar to loosen them then retorque to the 125.

Mike

floggingmolly · Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 8:21 am Post subject:

If the studs aren't spinning too freely (side to side play) I would just spot weld them again and be done with it.
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'85 Wolfsburg Weekender

insyncro · Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 10:12 am Post subject:

It is very common to use longer studs to be able to mount different rims.
I use Porsche studs.
The spline pattern from VW to Porsche is different.
Most use a tack weld to hold them in place.
If they are spinning, it will be very difficult to get them out.
Pull them off, check them and use a few tacks to have piece of mind.

dylan

bd · Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 12:13 pm Post subject:

Oh man, I feel your pain. The same PITA here. I just had some porsche studs installed in the rear, and all five studs on one hub spun hard enough to snap free of the ten spot welds that held them. Several of the globs of metal launched into my brakes...nice.

Anyway, you're right - it was insanely hard to get rim off the hub just to save it. One of the stupidest problems I've had to work through.

And put me down for a +1 for replacing the hub. Good luck!
_________________
1990 2wd TriStar, Oettinger-tuned 1.6L TD


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