Simple idea for stiff front beam suspension

[Lo Cash John]

Here's a cheap thought I had yesterday.

Assuming you have beam adjusters installed, couldn't you soften up the ride by removing the top retaining bolt from the center billet in the top tube? This would allow the billet to rotate freely in the beam tube and cut the front spring rate in half since the bottom tube is doing all the work. Also, since the top torsion bar is only attached on each end it would act like a mild sway bar.

On LP beams you'll need to get a really short 1/2-20 set screw to replace the bolt removed. This way the center billet can not move sideway in the beam and "get lost" in case you don't like the mod and want to put it back the way it was.

I know some guys have installed through rods on the top but wouldn't this be easier?


Thoughts?
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[junior55]

That's what happened to me by accidental situation when the adjuster
grub on the bottom of my puma just popped out on its own and the
lower springs were just free wheeling.
A little grease and I just kept it like that till I could replace it.

The only thing is, your trailing arms may drift left or right a bit as the
center fixture holds the trailing arms on center also.

I guess that would come down to your clearances on your tube-to-arm and side loading ability.

So if you intend to do this on a permanent basis you would probably want to go urethane bushings because of the collar for side loading.

Then at that piont, you probably want to just rebuild it with the center piece removed totally???

And to add to the thought and keep everything mechanically sound,
you can just unload your bottom adjuster to zero or even a minus
adjustment when sitting on the road. Add more load to uppers.
No sway bar effect but strong and effective on softening.

[Iowa Mark]

My buggy ran on one set of leaves. The top had a grade "5"- 5/8" diameter threaded rod with a nut locktited inside the beam to keep it from shifting side to side, and a set of delrin washers outside for a wear surface. All held together with nylocks. I could pick the front end up with one hand, it weighed so little.

[lostinbaja]

Removing 1 spring pack is a weight savings of maybe....5lbs? I don't see that lightening up a buggy very much at all.
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[Oil_Eater]

You could also use the adjusters to make a form of variable spring rate, which is what I do with mine. I have the lower spring pack supporting most of the weight of the vehicle. As the suspension gets compressed, the torsion from the upper (with less preload) slowly begins to add to the resistance.

I jacked the car up and set the lower splines, then I lower the car down and see where it's sitting. If it's sitting to low, that's good... I jack it up a little and set the upper. Than I lower the car again and it sits slightly higher.

It's not very scientific as far as setting the height... In fact it can take a few tries, but it makes the front softer but still retains stiffness when compressed.

Because my front sits so low and the tires so close to the fenders, I wouldn't want to run just one beam for fear of grinding the fenders with the tires under hard breaking or a good bump in the road.

Jay

[Iowa Mark]

[junior55]

I think he was talking about sprung weight...
whereas a little lift at the front would produce a lot of travel.

[vincent9993]

[Iowa Mark]

Vincent, This was on a Mini T that has the gas tank behind the rear axle and nothing but my size 13 shoes out front. With a stock front end there was no travel in the suspension and at speed or with a wind, a handful to keep on the road. With one set of leaves, there was some travel, but still a harsh ride. The real help was when I stuck some old oil shocks on there along with some bars of plumber's lead. The suspension was lots more forgiving and steering felt more like it was in my control. The buggy is now in pieces with the chassis being used for a new mutation on a VW theme.