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Dip Switch Settings on a VDO Tachometer
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

telford dorr wrote:
Should work fine. Instead of the 555, you can go to 4000 series cmos logic - a Schmitt hex inverter and a flip-flop; buffer the ff output with paralleled leftover inverters. Let me know how it works out.


yeah, what he said. Hahahaha, what did he say?
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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We are in the process of restoring a 1977 bus and am reinstalling the dash tomorrow.

Tellford - can you repeat the switch settings you are using on the back of the VDO tach with your device and post a photo if you have a camera that will take macro photos?

My recomendation is to put that device in a small LMB type box etc when you are done but add a switch to the circuit to lock out the incoming signal. This would allow anyone to turn off the tach if they were trying to isolate it from the ignition circuit to troubleshoot.

What amazes me is that tachometers are simple circuits, the technology is old and well known. If someone is running points, the signals are somewhat consistent between 12v cars other than variances between coils and the inductance of the wiring. One would think that VDO would not have a problem like this. I can see where aftermarket ignition systems could have differences that cause issues but that so much energy is being spent by so many people and so many posts on this subject baffle me.
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
yeah, what he said. Hahahaha, what did he say?

Yeah, the response probably should have been a PM. As kjspgd mentioned using a flip-flop (a type of integrated circuit), then he would know what the rest of the stuff was. Sorry 'bout that

By the way, I'm jealous of your engine test stand - makes my cobbed up empty tranny case look sorry. Since you're in SD, if you ever want to build a buffer circuit for your test stand tach, let me know.

SGKent wrote:
Telford - can you repeat the switch settings you are using on the back of the VDO tach with your device and post a photo if you have a camera that will take macro photos?

At this point it would be difficult, as the tach's installed in the dash. However, I just used the stock switch setting for "4 cylinder". I could probably crawl under there, verify the settings, and post a drawing, if that would help.

Quote:
My recommendation is to put that device in a small LMB type box etc when you are done but add a switch to the circuit to lock out the incoming signal. This would allow anyone to turn off the tach if they were trying to isolate it from the ignition circuit to troubleshoot.

That would work, but I'll probably just bend up some aluminum and make a custom enclosure. Have the metal and the tools.

With the 100k ohm input resistor, the load the circuit presents to the outside world is an order of magnitude below insignificant, so I probably won't bother with a switch.

Quote:
What amazes me is that tachometers are simple circuits, the technology is old and well known. If someone is running points, the signals are somewhat consistent between 12v cars other than variances between coils and the inductance of the wiring. One would think that VDO would not have a problem like this. I can see where aftermarket ignition systems could have differences that cause issues but that so much energy is being spent by so many people and so many posts on this subject baffle me.

I agree completely! VDO's been in this business for years, so they ought to know their way around this type of circuitry. This is why I'd love to open up a unit and find out what's what.

Personally, I suspect that the input circuit on the tach is a compromise between being able to run off points and being able to run off an alternator signal for marine and diesel applications. Compromise breeds mediocrity...

My offer (see original post) still stands. Somebody out there must have a dead tach laying around in their junk box???
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"By the way, I'm jealous of your engine test stand - makes my cobbed up empty tranny case look sorry. Since you're in SD, if you ever want to build a buffer circuit for your test stand tach, let me know."

I would. As I said, for some reason my VDO tach in my control box for the stand goes wacky. How should we proceed with that?

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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
How should we proceed with that?

Sent a PM.
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
can you repeat the switch settings you are using on the back of the VDO tach with your device and post a photo if you have a camera that will take macro photos?

OK, crawled under the dash, and here's what I see:

My switches are slide switches (not rocker switches.)

The labels on the switches are on the upper edge of the switch, except for the label "on", which is on the lower edge of the switch.

The inner-most switch (#1) is down (on).

The middle and outer-most switches (#2, #3) are up (off).
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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

traveling writer wrote
Quote:
The VDO instructions/PDF is WRONG.

The correct settings are: 123; UP DOWN DOWN



This is where this all gets confusing to me. The picture is showing the switch right side up in the drawing when it is upside down in real life. Is this simply a case of not following instructions? It sounds like if one follows instructions it works Ok but if one doesn't look closely to see that the switch is upside down then it is wacko. Is there anyone with Points and a coil who have set it (upside down) 123 UP DOWN DOWN who are still having trouble?
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would seem, from the instruction sheet, that if the switches are set correctly, the tachometer is expecting two ignition pulses per rev. If each switch is toggled to its opposite position, then the tachometer expects lots (12x ?) of pulses per rev, which should make it read extremely low when hooked up to a VW engine. Thus, if the switches are set opposite of correct, it should be obvious.

The big question is what exactly does switch #1 do? It's always 'on' for ignition connections, and 'off' for alternator (e.g. marine / diesel) connections. Does this switch also change the tach's front end filtering or gain? Or does it merely switch in a pulse pre-divider?

Switches #2 and #3 select the proper scaling. Flipping them should only change the scaling by a factor of 2, 3, or 4 pulses per rev.

Maybe the factory screwed up and mounted the switch upside down on the board for full production runs (dip switches are symmetrical and can be installed either way). This would change the 'on' direction of each switch, but not its function - that should be fixed by position.
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TACH SWITCH MYSTERY SOLVED!

Compared a second VDO tach (aeromech) to mine, and found out that VDO is using different switches on different production runs of these units. On my unit, a switch must be moved down to be 'on'; on the second tach, the switch must be moved up to be 'on'. No wonder people are going nuts trying to set this unit up correctly!

So here's the rules:

1) The correct switch settings for use of this tach on a VW (4 cylinder) are: switch #1 = 'on'; switches #2 and #3 = 'off'.

2) For setup purposes, above, number the switches 1 to 3, where 1 is towards the center of the tach and 3 is towards the outside. This is true regardless of how the switch is actually labeled! [e.g. in production they might mount it upside down, which would make the printed labeling wrong; however the circuit traces on the tach's board should always be in the same place.)

3) If your switch has an 'on' label printed on the switch, 'on' is towards that label. If your switch has no 'on' label printed on it, 'on' is up (relative to any printing on the switch.)

Feedback requested! Post if these rules don't work on your unit! (Pics desirable.)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you. That agrees with the paperwork they sent with mine.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It couldn't be simpler: No matter what the orientation of the dip switches, turn the tach until the damn things read right side up. THEN flip them the exact opposite of the VDO instructions. If your dip switches are not installed upside down vis a vis the tach body, then you still must flip them to the opposite settings contained within the instructions. The first time, I did them per the instructions. The tach barely moved, but it did almost get to 1k when I was revving quite high (4000k by the sound of it). Pulled it out (actually used a mirror and a tiny screwdriver to flip them one by one to the opposite of what they had been (the VDO instruction settings), and presto, worked like a charm. Also installed the diode in line from the coil, no jumping needle (tho I didn't test for jumpy needle without).
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fired mine up for the first time this weekend and it was barely registering at close to 3K RPM, so I'll try the fixes above and report back this weekend.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It worked. VDO instructions were backwards for my tach as well.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way this is the working DIP switch setting that I had to use:

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Works great like this, no bouncy needle or anything.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 7:09 pm    Post subject: VDO Tach issues Reply with quote

I realize that I am coming to the conversation a bit late, but I also have had the Jumpy Tach issues. I bought mine August of 2008 and had all of the mentioned issues. The switches were backwards and mine jumped. I just read this forum, installed the diode from radio shack, and it works great now. Not only is the jumping gone but it's more accurate too.

Thanks for the advice.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

we installed a diode too and that solved our bouncing.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to chime in with another data point.

I also installed a VDO tach, with the same issues as everyone else. I followed the thread to set the correct DIP switch settings. That got me close, but my idle was about 1100 rpm and the high end revs were showing 6500-7000 rpm. Now I know my engine is a tweaked 1835 cc, but it sure isn't reving to 7000 rpm Shocked

I installed the proverbial diode and guess what, idle dropped to a respectable 650 rpm and high end revs dropped to 4500 rpm (more realistic)

So if you have set the DIP switches correctly but your revs seem too high, get yourself that diode pronto Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lord why didnt I find this years ago...? I figured I was crazy running new wires..making new grounds...scratching my head. If it wasnt 1am and cold I would head outside this moment and check this out. Ah I cant wait till morning...ive been going nuts over this for about a year...
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well...diode installed and needle isnt jumping around anymore. But hell the thing still dosen't read right. idle at about 4 and high rev oh about 11. WTF..I though't you guys had found the key to my world of problems...or maybe I'm missing something
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Rusted_Radio- wrote:
Well...diode installed and needle isnt jumping around anymore. But hell the thing still dosen't read right. idle at about 4 and high rev oh about 11. WTF..I though't you guys had found the key to my world of problems...or maybe I'm missing something


The VDO instructions for setting the dip switches is oriented wrong. You really have to look at it closely. Basically the way to set them is a mirror image of the diagram shown.
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