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Axle Nuts
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P7rns
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:57 am    Post subject: Axle Nuts Reply with quote

Can Anybody tell me whats the best way to remove axle nuts on 64 buses, and what size socket fits ?

Thanks
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Andrew
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036

If you have big nut reduction boxes, though, you will have to make an adapter to change from 36mm to 46mm, but pictures of how to make one can be found here in the forums by searching. Otherwise, these things work awesome.
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AlteWagen
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my problem was not removing the nut but getting the drum off. It had never been off so 40+ years stuck. It took 7 hours 4 bottles of propane and a BFH to finally persuade it loose.
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bugcollections
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 3:33 pm    Post subject: Axle nuts Reply with quote

46 mm socket and a very good air wrench after soaking with something such as PB blaster.
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ach60 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My choice because everybody has a BFH and $10:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7045
This tool has been designed to remove the rear axle nut for brake inspection and service. The removal of this sometimes frozen nut is accomplished with a force greater than that of an impact wrench. To use- simply remove the cotter pin holding the axle nut on and place the tool over the nut. Insert a standard 1/2 inch breaker bar or ratchet- applying arm pressure- then strike the tool with a hammer knocking the nut loose. Fits Bus 64-79 & Vanagon 82-92
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Andrew
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ach60 wrote:
My choice because everybody has a BFH and $10:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7045
This tool has been designed to remove the rear axle nut for brake inspection and service. The removal of this sometimes frozen nut is accomplished with a force greater than that of an impact wrench. To use- simply remove the cotter pin holding the axle nut on and place the tool over the nut. Insert a standard 1/2 inch breaker bar or ratchet- applying arm pressure- then strike the tool with a hammer knocking the nut loose. Fits Bus 64-79 & Vanagon 82-92


I have one of these as well, but I was always nervous swinging the BFH with any sort of force so close to the body of my bus, though.
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Last edited by Andrew on Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:46 am; edited 1 time in total
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JoelH
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Axle nuts Reply with quote

heat it up super hot, then hit it with PB Blaster....lather, rinse, and repeat......know what I mean? works wonders!

Joel
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daniel5560
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use either the tool mentioned above that you hit with a hammer or get a one of those big giant 1" impact guns. Ive used both and never failed to get an axle nut off.
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P7rns
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what is PB Blaster and where do I get it ?
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Andrew
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

P7rns wrote:
what is PB Blaster and where do I get it ?


http://www.pbblaster.com/

Being in England, you may not have access to it like we do here. You can get it just about anywhere on this side of the ocean.
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P7rns
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont know if its the same stuff as your PB Blaster, but I sprayed what we Brits call WD40 onto the axle nuts and with a bit of persuation and jumping up and down on the bar the nuts came loose !!!
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DownRiver
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have WD-40 here as well.

PB blaster is a penetrant. WD-40 is a lubricant.

Both will work, but the PB Blaster, Kroil or similar will work a ton better.
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull ebrake hard.
If your ebrake doesn't work, chock the wheels so the bus doesn't roll. (Fix your ebrake whether it is an adjustment issue of the brake shoes or broken cable or whatever.)
Remove cotter pin.
Use 46mm socket on 3/4" slide bar.
Often I need the 5 foot cheater pipe on the slide bar.
Place pipe a bit up from horizontal and stand on it. I hold the drip rail for balance.

You really shouldn't need heat etc. In fact, if the axle nut is torqued to 250 ft lbs (which is should be), you can just stand on the slide bar and not need the cheater pipe. Do not use the cheater pipe when installing the nut. grease the splines so the drums doesn't rust in place, and the threads to the nut, and to torque it stand 1 foot out if you weigh 250 lbs, or further out if you weigh less (do the math). 2 feet out if you weight 125 lbs. In between if you weigh in between.
Then see if the cotter pin holes line up... bounce on the bar till the cotter pin holes line up and don't forget to put that cotter pin in.
Torque on the nut is something like 217 to 250 ft lbs.

The whacker tools can be useful, but I worry that it could be bad for the bearings. So I prefer the socket.

If the drum doesn't come off, there are threads for stuck drum issues. It is a not uncommon problem on buses that have sat a while. Evil or Very Mad

WD-40 is a lubricant, but not a penetrating oil like PB Blaster.
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pyrOman
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hijack! (Sort of) Anxious

Though WD40 is a lubricant, its uses have other limitations as such. Namely, you do not want to use it to lubricate a stubborn keylock as it will also dissipate any existing grease. While it may "help" the situation at first, it will recurr more often after using WD40. If you must use it there, make sure you take it apart later and grease it properly. Or just take it apart from the get go, repair, grease it, and be done with that. Cool
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FlusteredBust
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like Clara said, chock the wheels real well. I used a 4' cheater bar along with my 18'' breaker bar, and had no problems. To remove the drum, make sure you loosen both adjusters as much as you can. To me, peering into that little hole and finding and loosening the adjusters is actually the biggest pain in the whole process.
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Mortimer Bondurant
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dredging up this old thread because I just twisted the 3/4" drive off of a Craftsman 18" breaker bar. It had a 1" adapter on the business end into a large nut socket. On the other end was a 36" cheater bar with me standing on it and my son whacking it with a nut tree knocker in the area of the breaker bar. This worked fine on the passenger side rear but the driver's side rear is not budging. 1967 Deluxe. My questions are:

1. even though the front spindle on the drivers side has reverse threads , all three other spindles including this one are counter-clockwise to remove, right?

2. We've been soaking it for a week in 3-in-1 oil. I've never seen PB Blaster for sale. Should I look harder for PB?

Thanks.

I guess I'll try heat too which is mentioned above in this thread.
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jlarsen
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:32 pm    Post subject: axle nuts Reply with quote

yes - both rear axle nuts tighten by turning them clockwise and loosen by turning counterclockwise. Kroil is another effective penetrating and lubricating product as an alternative to P.B. Blaster.
jim
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Mortimer Bondurant
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Jim. Also, in my haste, I gave you a few pieces of bum information. I ruined a 1/2" inch drive going into a 3/4" adapter and it was an ACE brand breaker bar, not Craftsman.
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ldsvwguy
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew wrote:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036

If you have big nut reduction boxes, though, you will have to make an adapter to change from 36mm to 46mm, but pictures of how to make one can be found here in the forums by searching. Otherwise, these things work awesome.


X2! Plus this works on the gland nut if you ever need to replace the flywheel.
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guatebus
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mortimer Bondurant wrote:
Thanks, Jim. Also, in my haste, I gave you a few pieces of bum information. I ruined a 1/2" inch drive going into a 3/4" adapter and it was an ACE brand breaker bar, not Craftsman.


You pretty much need all 3/4" hardware to get the axle nuts off. The 1/2" stuff tends to break. Using the proper tooling, it's not too hard to get them off.

One of the big things is making sure the bus holds still when you're torquing off the nuts. I'd block the wheels AND make sure the e-brake is on. You can even get an assistant to step on the regular brakes as you work in back.

I don't recommend the "whacker" tool, but you can weld one to a big length of pipe to make a great axle nut removal tool. Or upgrade to the 3/4" breaker bar, as mentioned above.
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