Syncro fuel tank removal, reseal and SS strap install

iceracer · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:19 pm Post subject:

edbee: I bought the metal lines from CIP1 due to the fact the guy I spoke to on the phone was the only one who took the time to see if he had lengths to meet my needs. But I wouldn't buy from them again. After they were all in and tight, I started bleeding and had leaks all over. I had to loosen and reposition and tighten real real tight to get the whole thing leak free. Also, no one makes made to order lines for the Vanagon. So you end up figuring out your lengths and buy lines of equal length and get them in. A real pita. I went from the master all the way to the back.

Here is the kicker. Since doing my van I bought another Syuncro in need of metal lines and bought all my lines from NAPA. I piece mealed a few of the longer runs but got it all in and lo and behold, NO LEAKS upon bleeding. The plus on the NAPA lines is that they have 12mm wrench nuts vs 11mm CIP1. I like the bigger ones.

Lay under the van, take a bunch of meaasurements and try to replace them one at a time not to mess up your mind. IT gets a bit confusing were they were once they are out. That is if you remove all of them like I did. Check out your proportioning valve, It may work but it may be rusted near death like mine. Luckily I had spares.
_________________
86 Syncro Wolfsburg edition
63 Beetle (The Iceracer)

kenwilfy · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:20 pm Post subject: Syncro Restoration

Ed, I don't have a picture at the moment but I will take one when I get the latest kit here to install on my project syncro. It is a two hose kit. The high side hose is 3000 psi burst pressure rated reinforced black rubber with a fitting on each end. You attach one end to the rack and the other to the high pressure hose in the engine bay. The other hose is the return and it is rubber with two clamp. You leave about six inches of metal pipe on the rack end and cut the pipe there. Then slip the rubber hose over this and clamp it. At the other end you attach the hose to the power steering reservoir in the engine bay. That way you replace the metal line and also that short piece of hose in the engine bay at the same time. I have them made at I need them so if you need one let me know and usually in about a day I can have it on the way to you.
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Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
856-327-4936

kenwilfy · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:28 pm Post subject: Brake lines

I also get my brake lines pre-made from NAPA and I am happy with them. I have a flaring tool and new line and fittings from VW but just in the cost of the parts alone the NAPA lines are cheaper than the VW line, then you have to know how to make your own flares and that takes time to do right. Much easier buying the premade lines and then just coupling them together if need be. I have made up a chart for myself that lists all of the brake lines and the lengths of them so that I can go to NAPA and then buy whatever lengths I need to get the job done. That might be a good idea for you too since it seems that replacing metal brake lines is going to be an on-going thing with any Vanagon you are going to work on in the future.
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Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
856-327-4936

HeftySmurf · Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:55 pm Post subject:

Another trick I learned from some more experienced syncro owners is to put comething between the frame and the sending unit to ensure it dosent get caught up on the body. Thats the hard part when that happens....... It would have saved me a bit time and cursing. Laughing

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-Lorenzo
90 GL w/ Bostig

jbeaulie · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:11 pm Post subject:

Hey HeftySmurf,

I am in the process of restoring the fuel tank in my Syncro. I'll be reusing the fuel level sender, but will replace the seals and split ring. Did you use any sealant when re-installing the sender? I'd be REALLY unhappy if the darn thing leaked after going through all this work.

Picture of rusty sender

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Picture of de-rusted sender with two coats of POR-15. Sensor is mounted on a box to protect the float and electronics while I ground off the rust.

Jake
87 Syncro hardtop
82 AC Westy
Cincinnati, OH

HeftySmurf · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 11:51 pm Post subject:

Greetings
You can get new rubber gaskets.
Pretty sure Alaric H. Offered them now a few other vendors offer them too.
I've never heard of needing to use sealant. You should be ok with what you have going already.
Good luck and be careful not to break the rollover valves reinstalling it.
Peace and hair grease
Mike
_________________
-Lorenzo
90 GL w/ Bostig

syncrodoka · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 12:14 am Post subject:

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1333_1481/syncro_fuel_tank_sending_unit_gasket.html

ght

Where do you bolt the ends of the 2 parts that goes under the tank?
Best regards.

Syncronicity · Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 6:48 am Post subject:

Great job on the fuel tank re-work. Sorry. Slight hi-jack. Didn't get an answer for this question on a thread I started. And since the heftysmurf is very knowledgable about the Syncro fuel system now, maybe you could help. I started leaking fuel out of the channel shown in the pic on a very hot day while pitching and rolling over some 4WD roads over the weekend. I filled the tank before the drive. I could not find the source of the leak in the engine compartment or under the van. Once I hit pavement and it stopped leaking. Any ideas? Is there a fuel line in that channel? Thanks for any help.

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2.1 L 87 Syncro
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squeegee_boy · Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:40 am Post subject:

snowsyncro · Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:50 am Post subject:

In the Syncro, the vent line from the charcoal cannister is routed into the top of that channel. I am not sure how it would happen, but it sounds like the evap system is getting pressurized, and pushing fuel into the charcoal cannister. Maybe when offroading, a fuel tank vent is submerged in fuel, allowing raw fuel in the vent line, then a plugged or restricted alternate vent (the other side of the Syncro tank) is enabling a pressure buildup, pushing fuel into the charcoal cannister.

Just a guess,

RonC

EDIT: Moved this back to the original thread.

snowsyncro

Alaric.H · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 7:36 am Post subject:

I recommend replacing all the 6x1.0mm nuts with new one as when you clean or sandblast the threads to get the rust off they may get a little smaller and the old bolts can vibrate loose and cause a leak.
Here are some pictures of one I just did over with new bolts.

7thing3 · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 7:43 am Post subject:

Did you do that with tank in or out of vehicle?
_________________
'73 Thing--Ted
'77 Super Beetle Convertible
'87 Vanagon GL Syncro
'84 Mercedes 280 CE

Alaric.H · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 7:49 am Post subject:

ajdenette · Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:27 pm Post subject:

Well over a week ago I started preparing to remove the fuel level sensor and get ready to install a new one again Mad

so I got it loose Sunday and received the new one from Van Café today Very Happy

and already have a SS ring for in the tank from Ken at Van Again but I am 100 miles from the van at my apartment Crying or Very sad

so I am playing with it and am confused on the orientation the way the old one was clocked the level sensor is sideways

The PO replaced it at least once (aka my father who thinks it may have been done twice on this van) installed the old one and could have done it wrong way back when, but it always read the fuel level correct

The question is do I have the unit right in my picture:

Or do I have it upside down or at an angle Rolling Eyes

I am confused and don’t want to put it in wrong

So I come to you the collective to make sure I clock the new one to perform its best, I also want to know if I need that plate on the top left of the unit as mine is almost all gone back to mother earth Question

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1985 2wd Westy with 2000 Subaru 2.2 current driver
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=685635
1986 Syncro Doka Project next in line
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732777
1990 Vanagon Syncro Base awaiting body work

syncrodoka · Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:34 pm Post subject:

That looks correct. If the nipple faced down it would hit the frame rail.

thummmper · Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 11:49 pm Post subject:

interesting--whats the capacity of that tranny saddle tank? my bentley is bereft of data.

syncrodoka · Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 12:14 am Post subject:

18.5 gallons

16CVs · Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 12:29 am Post subject:

I know mine is the same as yours ,but I have put more gas in it than that before . Like 2 or 3 tenths . almost to 18.9 .
Since my Fuel gauge has never worked ,I run out a few time a month .Mario ,Now you know why I carry that ultra cool spare tank on my screen .
I am waiting for my sending unit too come home from G.B.

Stacy
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
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Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
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Syncro fuel tank removal, reseal and SS strap install
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