Syncro fuel tank removal, reseal and SS strap install

Alaric.H · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 7:36 am Post subject:

I recommend replacing all the 6x1.0mm nuts with new one as when you clean or sandblast the threads to get the rust off they may get a little smaller and the old bolts can vibrate loose and cause a leak.
Here are some pictures of one I just did over with new bolts.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

snowsyncro

snowsyncro · Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:50 am Post subject:

In the Syncro, the vent line from the charcoal cannister is routed into the top of that channel. I am not sure how it would happen, but it sounds like the evap system is getting pressurized, and pushing fuel into the charcoal cannister. Maybe when offroading, a fuel tank vent is submerged in fuel, allowing raw fuel in the vent line, then a plugged or restricted alternate vent (the other side of the Syncro tank) is enabling a pressure buildup, pushing fuel into the charcoal cannister.

Just a guess,

RonC

EDIT: Moved this back to the original thread.

squeegee_boy · Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:40 am Post subject:

Syncronicity · Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 6:48 am Post subject:

Great job on the fuel tank re-work. Sorry. Slight hi-jack. Didn't get an answer for this question on a thread I started. And since the heftysmurf is very knowledgable about the Syncro fuel system now, maybe you could help. I started leaking fuel out of the channel shown in the pic on a very hot day while pitching and rolling over some 4WD roads over the weekend. I filled the tank before the drive. I could not find the source of the leak in the engine compartment or under the van. Once I hit pavement and it stopped leaking. Any ideas? Is there a fuel line in that channel? Thanks for any help.

_________________
Tom, Juanita, Iggy & Abbey the Dirty Desert Dogs
2.1 L 87 Syncro
KD0ALU
________oo_oo
/ /__/___[_____\
I I======[]IIIII[]
()_)------()_)----)_)

ght

Where do you bolt the ends of the 2 parts that goes under the tank?
Best regards.

syncrodoka · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 12:14 am Post subject:

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1333_1481/syncro_fuel_tank_sending_unit_gasket.html

HeftySmurf · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 11:51 pm Post subject:

Greetings
You can get new rubber gaskets.
Pretty sure Alaric H. Offered them now a few other vendors offer them too.
I've never heard of needing to use sealant. You should be ok with what you have going already.
Good luck and be careful not to break the rollover valves reinstalling it.
Peace and hair grease
Mike
_________________
-Lorenzo
90 GL w/ Bostig

jbeaulie · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:11 pm Post subject:

Hey HeftySmurf,

I am in the process of restoring the fuel tank in my Syncro. I'll be reusing the fuel level sender, but will replace the seals and split ring. Did you use any sealant when re-installing the sender? I'd be REALLY unhappy if the darn thing leaked after going through all this work.

Picture of rusty sender

Picture of de-rusted sender with two coats of POR-15. Sensor is mounted on a box to protect the float and electronics while I ground off the rust.

Jake
87 Syncro hardtop
82 AC Westy
Cincinnati, OH

HeftySmurf · Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:55 pm Post subject:

Another trick I learned from some more experienced syncro owners is to put comething between the frame and the sending unit to ensure it dosent get caught up on the body. Thats the hard part when that happens....... It would have saved me a bit time and cursing. Laughing

_________________
-Lorenzo
90 GL w/ Bostig

kenwilfy · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:28 pm Post subject: Brake lines

I also get my brake lines pre-made from NAPA and I am happy with them. I have a flaring tool and new line and fittings from VW but just in the cost of the parts alone the NAPA lines are cheaper than the VW line, then you have to know how to make your own flares and that takes time to do right. Much easier buying the premade lines and then just coupling them together if need be. I have made up a chart for myself that lists all of the brake lines and the lengths of them so that I can go to NAPA and then buy whatever lengths I need to get the job done. That might be a good idea for you too since it seems that replacing metal brake lines is going to be an on-going thing with any Vanagon you are going to work on in the future.
_________________
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
856-327-4936

kenwilfy · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:20 pm Post subject: Syncro Restoration

Ed, I don't have a picture at the moment but I will take one when I get the latest kit here to install on my project syncro. It is a two hose kit. The high side hose is 3000 psi burst pressure rated reinforced black rubber with a fitting on each end. You attach one end to the rack and the other to the high pressure hose in the engine bay. The other hose is the return and it is rubber with two clamp. You leave about six inches of metal pipe on the rack end and cut the pipe there. Then slip the rubber hose over this and clamp it. At the other end you attach the hose to the power steering reservoir in the engine bay. That way you replace the metal line and also that short piece of hose in the engine bay at the same time. I have them made at I need them so if you need one let me know and usually in about a day I can have it on the way to you.
_________________
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
856-327-4936

iceracer · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:19 pm Post subject:

edbee: I bought the metal lines from CIP1 due to the fact the guy I spoke to on the phone was the only one who took the time to see if he had lengths to meet my needs. But I wouldn't buy from them again. After they were all in and tight, I started bleeding and had leaks all over. I had to loosen and reposition and tighten real real tight to get the whole thing leak free. Also, no one makes made to order lines for the Vanagon. So you end up figuring out your lengths and buy lines of equal length and get them in. A real pita. I went from the master all the way to the back.

Here is the kicker. Since doing my van I bought another Syuncro in need of metal lines and bought all my lines from NAPA. I piece mealed a few of the longer runs but got it all in and lo and behold, NO LEAKS upon bleeding. The plus on the NAPA lines is that they have 12mm wrench nuts vs 11mm CIP1. I like the bigger ones.

Lay under the van, take a bunch of meaasurements and try to replace them one at a time not to mess up your mind. IT gets a bit confusing were they were once they are out. That is if you remove all of them like I did. Check out your proportioning valve, It may work but it may be rusted near death like mine. Luckily I had spares.
_________________
86 Syncro Wolfsburg edition
63 Beetle (The Iceracer)

edbee

Hi,

iceracer: for the hard brake lines did you just buy metal line in bulk and bend/cut/flare them as needed or did you buy them all individually made to fit (if they are available like that.) I need to replace most of my metal brake lines too. http://www.edbee.ca/westfalia.aspx for photos

Ken: do you have photos of the power steering lines you sell? I just ordered the sending unit from you yesterday (with SS ring) but might have ordered the PS lines had I know you had them too.

iceracer · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:34 am Post subject:

Ken,

I too replaced all hard brake lines when I did mine. And also had to reinforce the tank strap attachment points. Lots of dirt and crud and rust in there from years of use. And I have a set of your power steering lines I will be installling in the coming month.
_________________
86 Syncro Wolfsburg edition
63 Beetle (The Iceracer)

kenwilfy · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:52 am Post subject: Syncro Gas tank install

I am just finishing this job up for a customer myself. I appreciate the pictures very much. Actually it was my search for a fuel tank sender for this customer's van that led me to start importing them for customers along with many other products that can only be gotten in Germany now.
My particular syncro is from Delaware and it was rusty in different places but not to the point of causing any structural concerns. However the rear section of brake lines had to be replaced and the power steering lines are shot. I make and sell the power steering hoses as a kit for $225 if anyone is looking for them. I also had to fabricate two new mounts for the front mounts that the gas tank straps attach to. The original gussets were rusted out at the bottom so I had to make new attachment points for the straps in the front. I just used two pieces of light angle steel and then welded nuts to them and painted them black. Then I riveted them to the frame with stainless steel rivets. Seem to be very sturdy. I replaced all of the vent lines on the top of the tank and the sender unit with a brand new OEM one (I sell for $199). I will try to post some pictures later on today or tomorrow.
_________________
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
856-327-4936

CinnabarVan · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:38 am Post subject: Syncro Fuel tank removal

Thanks for all the information and pictures on the steps to do this crazy job. It is well worth it seeing how rusty the frame was behind and above the tank.

I will try to add a couple additional pictures of a North East van with 24 years of road rage accumulated.

Cheers,
CinnabarVan working on Stella Blue

edbee · Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 12:55 am Post subject: syncro restoration project

Great photos!

I am just getting started on the same task (adding a Zetec too) only mine is more rusted above the tank than yours appeared to be. Did you find it relatively easy to remove that thick sound deadener/insulation pad from above the fuel tank? I don't want to wreck it as I remove it.

Where did you get your power steering lines? And the SS coolant lines, from where and are you happy with them?

I did buy the stainless tank mounts from Anthony and was thinking about the sending unit retainer ring too.

I plan on posting photos sometime soon.

Thanks again for your detailed info!
Ed - North Vancouver, BC

HeftySmurf · Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 12:21 pm Post subject:

Pics of the seams behinde the tailights
Picked, dremeled, and Sandplast

_________________
-Lorenzo
90 GL w/ Bostig

HeftySmurf · Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 12:18 pm Post subject:

Here's a more condensed post
I did this a few months ago a biscally full reconditioning of every bushing, hose, etc on the underside of my syncro. Allot of work but worth it
Here's a list of what I did
resealed tank
Hydrolic hose PS lines
All new vent lines
fuel pump
fuel filter
SS tank straps
SS piece the sender attaches to
New SS coolant lines
Entire scapping of underbody and POR on rust and 3 coats of truck bedliner follwed by a coat of wax on everything and spray grease on any nuts and bolts
Cleaned, POR rusty spots only and did Mortons truck Bed liner (3 coats) every where else
Did the same thing to the entire engine bay
Also take the time to get the area behinde each of the taillights to scrape out the old seam sealer and replace it. This is th esource of the most common rear panel seam rusting form water and condensation from the temp changes inside the engine bay. Additionally who may want
Change the bushing in your shift linkage, the boot off the transaxle, make sure your vaucuum actuators are good

Additionally Anthony J. on the classifieds sells all the stuff mentioned and has better prices than the vandors and has Stainless stuff they dont have:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=Anthony+Jaundoo
Here are whole bunch of pics