Aux Battery/Yandina wiring diagram

[Tracey]

I think you might not have enough charging power to keep up to the fridge. What kind of power does it use? your charger will have to do that much or better.
Just a side note here...using an on board charger might make some noise at night when your trying to sleep. Any charger Ive ever used in the garage has always had a load of noise with it while charging.
Have a nice day.
Tracey

[crazyvwvanman]

I would not expect to have that small charger run the fridge and charge the batteries in any significant way at the same time. The fridge needs an average of something like 1 amp so not much left for the batteries.

As to how that charger would react to the fridge cycling on and off at 3 amps I just don't know. Better to get a charger that can handle the fridge draw, like a 4 amp unit or something.

I just bought a selectable charger for this exact use. It has settings for battery type and charge rate, 2,8,12amps. It cost $30 shipped. I trimmed the wires down and the case too and will be mounting it behind the driver's seat wired to the inverter there, to share the same power connections to the battery bank that the inverter uses.

Mark

[scottjk]

I have that exact charger. I have used it in the van and all I can say is that charger is UBER LOUD due to the small cooling fans. I had to run an extension cord out the window and put the charger under the van so I could sleep.

Point taken though on the Battery Minder+. I'm going to wait for the ac/dc model to come out because my situation gives me AC power most nights.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Scott

[crazyvwvanman]

Yes, any battery charger with a fan will make noise, as will any fridge with a compressor. If I intended to sleep the night in a van with a charger running I would buy a Guest 2608A or similar. Those are about $60 if you shop carefully. 6 amps, 3 stage, no fan, Marine rated.

Mark

[scottjk]

I ended up with the Vitrifrigo ac/dc. Figured the cost of the TF ac/dc will be the same with the price increase in 30 days.

Scott

[singler3360]

Congrats on the new fridge. Let us know how the install goes.

[mtnwater]

[madspaniard]

[mtnwater]

[scottjk]

I bought it from Truck Fridge, they sell both. Just call Andrew.

Scott

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

singler3360, did you ever start your install?
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[singler3360]

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

[brent239]

maybe I didnt see it but why Won't the isolator work with your alternator and is it Bosch specific???

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

The Sure Power isolator I have is a Group 2 isolator, which is for AC Delco alternators.
A Group 3 isolator has to be used with a Bosch alternator.
I have the incorrect isolator for the application.
_________________
"Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know."
~ Cullen Hightower

(T)exas (C)oalition (B)uses
(H)eidenhammer (B)ully (B)oyz

--1966 De Luxe Camper

[afmercure]

Hi,

I know I'm a little late to jump into this thread. Hope someone will provide some answers. I'm considering a similar setup and have a few questions. But first, Singler3360, how is your setup working? What's the size (ah) of your battery? How long can you run your fridge on the battery? How long does it take to recharge from the alternator? Now, my questions about the diagram:

1. Dogpilot suggests using a 30 amp fuse between alternator and aux battery. What amperage can we expect there? How can we get the most from the alternator, to charge the aux battery as fast as possible, without shorting its life? Any advantage to use the Yandina c150 over c100?

2. Could we use a Surepower 1315 or 1314 between the two batteries and charge the aux battery as fast as with a Yandina? Any advantage to use 1315-200 over 1315 for that setup?

3. What happens if the engine is started while the charger is still connected to shore power?

4. To add a solar panel as a 3rd source of charging power, where in that diagram would you connect the solar controller? Again, what happens if two or three charging sources are working at the same time?

5. It seems to me like an ac/dc TruckFridge would always work on ac in that setup. It's using the source with the highest voltage available (http://westyventures.com/fridgeinfo.htm). So when shore power is NOT available, wouldn't it take AC current from the inverter, thus with a loss?

Thanks for any input,
Alain

[iiigoiii]

remember the yandinas are 100A. they use a combination of wire size and cycling to safely transfer the high amps through their smaller wire. putting a 30A fuse on it would severely limit its functionality. from the yandina site:

[madspaniard]

[suebicum]

Hello

[tencentlife]

You seem to think the alternator is the only current source in the car. Think again. What happens when you have a fully charged battery, and suddenly connect it to a deeply discharged one.

Hint: the alternator isn't even in this picture. You could set up this circuit on the floor in your garage.

Yandina knows their stuff. Like them, I don't think that any fusing is needed in the combiner circuit, but if you did want to use one against dead shorts, their recommendation is accurate if you want to be able to use all the aux battery capacity but avoid nuisance blowing.
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