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fridge replacement projects - post here
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 2:05 am    Post subject: Re: Vitrifrigo Install Reply with quote

I think most guys are mounting the fridge up high where the side fan lines up pretty well with the existing cabinet side vent grill.

I would not mount a fridge as low as you because I find that things can get pinched when the door is opened. Toes, pet parts, etc. Also the higher the fridge the easier to get stuff in and out.

Mark


scottjk wrote:
http://s724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/scottjk_photos/Vanagon/Vitrifrigo/

Here are some of my current photos on my ongoing install. Very tight fit all the way around. OEM style face frame that fits perfectly. Just enough room for the Xantrex to sit on top and have about 1/2 inch off the bottom for ventilation.

I'm curious why most guys are not thinking about bottom ventilation. For the fridge to be as efficient as possible it has to draw air over the coils just like a regular fridge. With the Xantrex as well as the fridge fans sitting in the same space I wanted some type of bottom vent to help keep some type of circular flow going.

Scott
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scottjk
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 5:54 am    Post subject: Up high Reply with quote

I initially had planned on mounting up high but when the Xantrex inverter/charger came in to the plan things changed. I suppose I could have mounted the Xantrex in the bottom space.

Scott
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billwilson
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

madspaniard wrote:
billwilson wrote:
I have the same Truck Fridge installed on Wilson as shown in the above pics

I have had it running since i hooked up the solar panel
(see my sig for date)

I have 210 amp hours of batteries
a Karl Special UB 4 pack under the driver
and a 110 amphr under the bench
solar is a 130 watt kycoera

just spend 4 days in the fog and rain camping
barely 2 amp hours charging

fridge cranked on 6
wife in and out all day

3 full lenght dvds per day
(one for me, two Thai movies for the wife Smile

3 hours on my laptop

keeping both iPhones fully charged

running one of two florecent lites @ 2 hours

batteries read this morning: 10.87 volts

thats my story and i am sticking to it!!



bill, which battery you fridge is sucking power from? and, does the solar panel recharge both UB 4 pack and 110Amp/hr batteries?


the way it is wired, the 4 pac and the underseat are in
seires/paralell (still 12v)
they drain at the same time
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woggs1
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got my Vitrifrigo today. The latch is not the pin type (maybe it is like the truckfridge latch) so I don't have to worry about forgetting to put the pin in before driving. That was the first good experience with the fridge, but that goodness did not last long. At first I thought that it was DOA, I pulled it out of the box and plugged it in and nothing happened. I was pissed, so I hooked it up to a battery to see if it worked that way and nothing. So then I left it plugged in for a couple hours to see if it would start working and nothing. At this point I was really pissed so I started to look through the owners manual and didn't get much help there until I noticed the wiring diagram. On the back of the refer is several electrical wires and in the owners manual is a wiring diagram showing where each wire is supposed to be plugged into (blade connections). I checked all the wires and, wouldn't you know it, one of the grounds was connected into the WRONG blade connection! WTF is that? Anyways I connected the wire into the correct spot, plugged the refer in to the wall plug and it fired right up and started getting cold fast Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

I also noticed in the owners manual that you are supposed to have an airvent directly to outside air for the refer. So I decided to put a little fan (muffin fan?) in the old refer propane exhaust vent. That will also vent any hot air generated by the refer to the outside instead of heating up the inside in the hot summer. I just have to figure out how I want to set it up. I will try and take pictures and post.
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surfinwesty Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dogpilot wrote:
I did get the AC/DC model. I like to plug it in the night before.


Having the AC plug in is a huge benefit. Why not use the grid while you can?

DOGPILOT: I checked out your website and your Bus is an inspiration to all. You are motivating me to rip apart my kitchen...the microwave is AWESOME!!! Perfect for softening up rock hard surf wax Cool
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To you guys installing these I have a question.
Do you remove the flue vent that the old Dometic uses?
If so, then I guess you would have to block the opening so that water doesn't enter the inside of the van?
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scottjk
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 7:14 am    Post subject: Block Vent Reply with quote

I used aviation grade speed tape but I would imagine that any good metal tape would work. I wouldn't use cloth duct tape.

Scott
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So basically you have a 'dummy' flue vent?
The outside vent is there, but it's closed up from the inside with metal tape?
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syncrosimon
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is my Vitrifrigo, it is a generous 75litre one with a remote compressor, so the fridge is just a box, no step in the bottom. Really pleased with it. Compressor sits in the spare battery box.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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woggs1
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Electric Wizard wrote:
So basically you have a 'dummy' flue vent?
The outside vent is there, but it's closed up from the inside with metal tape?


I have not yet put mine in but I am planning on installing a vent fan in the flue to suck out the hot air generated by the refer. I may have to get a cover for the rainy season to keep the water out. I think Gowesty sells those covers.
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Dogpilot
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get aluminium tape from Ace or the like and put inside and outisde. You really want to seal the liquid stuff outside. BTW, water does seep by the plastic cover that Westfalia makes to cover over the vent.
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woggs1
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dogpilot wrote:
BTW, water does seep by the plastic cover that Westfalia makes to cover over the vent.


Does anyone know a crafty way to keep out the water in lieu of completely blocking the vent? Where does the water go when the original refer is in there? Is that why there is a water drain on the front of the dometic?
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I talked about this on page 1 of this thread. I'm planing on using the GoWesty aluminum plate, the westfalia plastic vent cover, and some good sealant from the inside (plus the nsulation described below) to stop water from seeping inside.


madspaniard wrote:
ohlott wrote:
Getting ready to install the new truck fridge. What are you guys doing with your vent to the out side. Blocking it off?
thanks


yeap, GoWesty sells the fridge elimination kit that includes an aluminum plate to block off the flue vent. It also includes a laminated shelf. I figured I could use the shelf to separate the fridge from the space left available either on top or at the bottom, depending on how you install the fridge.

I guess you can come up with your own plate, shouldn't be difficult but yeah, you do want to block it off and maybe use a piece of closed cell foam or similar on the inside to insulate that area.
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VANGAUX
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished installing the Vitrifrigo and used information from previous installations to give me ideas on how to proceed. I decided to not install a drawer underneath the Vitrifirgo so that I could use that space for a Iota DLS-30/IQ4 smart charger. The Iota unit is an inch shorter in height than some other smart chargers and it fits fine under the Vitrifrigo.

I connected the charger to a Blue Sea fuse panel with 8AWG wire. Communication with Iota tech support was great when I phoned or emailed questions. I reused the grill from the old fridge to provide air flow for the Iota and the fridge. To see pictures of my installation go to:
http://picasaweb.google.com/teerhb/VitrifrigoInstallation?authkey=Gv1sRgCKDSsozy0-j4tgE#

While doing the Vitrifrigo installation, I decided to use a battery separator, a new fuse box, and 4 batteries for my auxiliary power.

To do this, I ran an 8AWG line from the main battery box to the auxiliary box and used the Surepower 1315 to connect/separate the two batteries. Since my wife and I go to some pretty remote areas for extended periods I wanted as much battery capacity as I could place in the auxiliary battery box. I used Karl's idea of the four UB12220 batteries and connected them with 6AWG wire to a Blue Sea fuse box behind the drivers seat and connected the fridge, my Propex heater, my rear bed light, the Iota smart charger, an inverter, and the radio/interior lights to that fuse box.

I removed the original relay and connected the power line to that relay to the wire to the display panel and water faucet and put an inline fuse in that line and removed the original 2 fuse panel. I did that since I wanted the display panel to provide me with the status of the starting battery.
To see pictures of this installation, go to:
http://picasaweb.google.com/teerhb/UB12220Batterie...ZXuu-WPCw#

To provide me details with the status of my auxiliary battery, I searched for an inexpensive battery monitor and stumbled across one that will not only provide a digital reading of the battery but can also be set to sound an alarm when the battery gets to a level that you set. While you can purchase the device from many online merchants, I bought mine from the inventor and his $30 price includes shipping and he tests each unit before it ships. His communication is great and he gives his phone number for any questions that you may have. His website is: "http://www.voltminder.com/ "

Pictures of my installation of the Volt~Minder are at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/teerhb/VoltMinder?authkey=Gv1sRgCOGL6dyyl9_o3gE#

Harold
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Shastaclimber
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

teerhb wrote:
I just finished installing the Vitrifrigo and used information from previous installations to give me ideas on how to proceed. I decided to not install a drawer underneath the Vitrifirgo so that I could use that space for a Iota DLS-30/IQ4 smart charger. The Iota unit is an inch shorter in height than some other smart chargers and it fits fine under the Vitrifrigo.

I connected the charger to a Blue Sea fuse panel with 8AWG wire. Communication with Iota tech support was great when I phoned or emailed questions. I reused the grill from the old fridge to provide air flow for the Iota and the fridge. To see pictures of my installation go to:
http://picasaweb.google.com/teerhb/VitrifrigoInstallation?authkey=Gv1sRgCKDSsozy0-j4tgE#

Harold


That is one nice install! What saw did you use to make those cuts? Thanks for sharing.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

teerhb wrote:
I just finished installing the Vitrifrigo...


Awesome, nice work. Do you happen to have the measurements for the Vitrifrigo installation? Bottom holding plates, etc?
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VANGAUX
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hallvalla wrote:
teerhb wrote:
I just finished installing the Vitrifrigo...


Awesome, nice work. Do you happen to have the measurements for the Vitrifrigo installation? Bottom holding plates, etc?


First, I am not a metal worker, a wood worker, or a mechanic. But, I do take my time and try to do things correctly. This installation took me more time than I wanted to spend, but once I got started, I just kept plugging away.

After removing the old fridge, I took careful measurements and took the old frame to a friends place. He has wood working tools including a table saw and a table router and he cut the frame to my dimensions, routed the two sides like the factory frame, and cut out the hole in the middle for the fridge. The big problem we had was that the factory frame is one thickness and the wood we had was a little thicker so getting the left and right lips correct was tedious.

I also had him cut the 2 small wood strips that I attached to the cabinet walls at the top and the aluminum rail at the bottom.

After he cut the wood to the dimensions I wanted, I then had to do some fine tuning (sanding, jig saw, etc. to the inside of the frame and to the small wood strips. You will probably find like I did that the entire mounting box area is not square so take your time. It is tedious to get it so that the Vitrifrigo is centered.

As to dimensions, I do have some notes on a piece of paper that I retrieved from the trash can, but we remeasured before cutting so I can not say for certain that these are the final figures. Don't go by these numbers, but you can use them as a starting point.

Vitrofrigo is 20" high and 15" wide with a 3/4" frame all around.

My rough notes indicate that the fridge frame was 17 1/4" wide and 22 9/16" tall. The bottom piece was also 17 1/4" wide and 2 5/16" high and the grill added 1 9/16" height to that piece.

The inside of the cabinet is 16 13/16" wide so if the Vitrifrigo is 15" wide, your top pieces inside the cabinet (one on each side) to hold the fridge in place need to take up about 1 13/16" to help hold the fridge steady. Again, since the cabinet was not square I did a lot of rough sanding on those pieces to make it work.

My notes say the bottom aluminum rail was positioned 21 5/16" from the top of the inside of the cabinet. Again, since the fridge is 15" wide and the cabinet is 16 13/16 wide, you need to fill in the space with wood to keep the fridge centered. I used 1/8" thick aluminum on each side so that decreases the thickness of the wood pieces you need to a total of 1 9/16 so it is about 3/4" per side.

As to the front/back placement of the aluminum rails, I just made certain that they were positioned so that the fridge rested on them when it was in position. The key here is to have the strips level from front to back. I ended up having to lengthen a back bolt hole on one strip so I could lower it so that the fridge was perfectly square and level with the frame in position before securing it.

Hope this helps.

Harold
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ohlott
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those who are running a solar panel where are you routing your wire to go back into the van?
Thanks
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Hallvalla
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, teerhb.

I'm ordering my fridge today (probably the Truck Fridge model). Should be the same dimensions.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If anybody is looking for solar set up here is the deal. This is the cheapest I have found.
http://store.solar-electric.com/kyso130wa12v.html
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