Should I preemptively replace the clutch master cylinder?

[drj434343]

I know, this might be similar to "what oil should I use?", but I'm giving it a shot anyway.

The clutch slave cylinder on my 1983.5 Westy leaked externally in 2018, and I replaced it while on the road with a part from Van Cafe. At the time it was about getting on the road, not preventative maintenance.

I appear to have an original clutch master cylinder. It is dry and rust free. Should I consider preemptive replacement?

I see lots of discussions about the potentially dubious quality of all aftermarket parts, even previously "trusted" brands. Is it foolish to contemplate replacement of a 40+ year old OEM master clutch cylinder if it seems to be working fine? Maybe I should be more worried about my aftermarket slave cylinder replacement instead? Is there a brand that could be a trusted replacement?

The feeling of that clutch pedal going to the floor during my 2018 slave cylinder failure is always in the back of my mind when I first depress the clutch while camping in the middle of nowhere...

[MarkWard]

Buy the master and put it in along with your spares. That will scratch that itch and you'll be ready if and when it leaves you stranded.
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[E1]

Edit:
Just realized I posted on the wrong thread, Sorry.
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[zerotofifty]

Wait till it fails on a cold and dark stormy night along a dangerous stretch of isolated road. Might as well wait till it blows corrosive fluid all over the dash area, and floor of the van too. Nothing like a good excuse to clean and repair all that stuff, the floor mats needed washing anyway, and it was maybe time to clean my dash wire harness anyway.

Id be a thinking that after 40 years, yeah that be what I be thinking.

If the slave was rusty inside, well consider that the master shares the same fluid, and often it is the fluid that is the source of the internal rust, the fluid gets water logged and then both cylinders are susceptible to rust.

Do you feel lucky? Well do you?
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Give peace a chance. No American war with Russia!

[MarkWard]

Someone with skills can drive a standard box without a clutch even on the most scary dark cold stormy night.

Aftermarket parts are a crap shoot anymore. I'll bet you could match up the seal from the original.

And this will be hard for you youngsters to believe, but on the VW line back in the 70s, we actually rebuilt brake slave cylinders with OE parts. Never had any comebacks.

We are a throw away society now. We as a majority demand cheap prices = cheap junk.

I had an automotive student ask me why they still use "Master" and "Slave". Good question.
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[SLOWoody]

^^^ We had an Engineering student ask why "Master" and "Slave" nomenclature was used in SolidWorks and AutoCAD software programs. They ended up contacting the companies and from what I understand, the software companies will be changing the nomenclature in future releases.

Sorry this is off topic but thought it was interesting and happy to see our youth making changes.
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83.5 Westfalia, GW 2.3L w/ GW EFI, 4 speed

[drj434343]

I have rebuilt the clutch cylinder on my Honda CB500, but that's because there was consensus that the rebuild kits were still decent.

I've read here that rebuild kits are of similar dubious quality, so why bother. If I could get an OEM rebuild kit I'd go that route, assuming I didn't find pitting in the bore.

[DanHoug]

there's repair kits consisting of the rubber bits for both the master and slave. these are the dubious JP Group Classic Line. prolly better to find FTE/ATE/etc ones but it allows one to keep the original metal that MAY have been better machined.

[Van den Broke]

Rather than change out functioning parts, I'd drain and replace the brake fluid in the entire brake and clutch system for preventative maintenance.

These things don't typically catastrophically fail, spraying fluid everywhere. They start leaking slowly. So if you look carefully for leaking at the master and enslaved cylinder, say twice a year, you will usually have ample warning of impending doom.

As for driving without a clutch, I've done it in a few cars in emergency situations. With a shifter connected directly to a transmission it can be done with some skill, but with a long, remote linkage system like the vans have, it's really tough to not grind the gears.

[Ahwahnee]

[E1]

Yep, I had to do it once on a new and newly-installed, mechanic-warped clutch.

Only used the clutch — well, sort of — at stop signs, matched revs to shift everywhere else, from northern Oregon to Chico, California.

Per the thread… I’d personally buy a new master, store it in the van, and bleed and run the one made in a higher-quality era until the stock one fails.


OH! Hey, Drj!!!
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[hardway]

Van den Broke is correct. While it is true that components fail suddenly, it is far, far more common for them to fail gradually. When someone tells you that the failure occurred suddenly and without warning, almost always the truth is that person was not paying attention or is incapable of discerning the reality of machines.

A machine or component that has functioned well for a long time is likely to function well for a long time to come. It would be a good idea to source an FTE cylinder while they are still available. The war in Europe is accelerating the obsolescence of our classic vehicles.

Of course you should flush the brake and clutch system every two or three years. DOT 4 is becoming an obsolete standard. Everything is using DOT 4LV now. Of course that is a marketing term. The standard is now DOT 4SL or any number of more specific ratings. I use Textar, ATE, Rowe or Pentosin. All are available in low viscosity versions.

Glance at the master cylinders once in a while. And check the wear of the clutch pedal and clevis. Inspect the rest of the vehicle often. It is a good practice with any vehicle. But it is really important with an obsolete vehicle that has exceeded it's design lifetime and has limited support both with parts and skilled labor.

[Abscate]