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Oh the fun of timing and carbs
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kerian159
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:08 am    Post subject: Oh the fun of timing and carbs Reply with quote

If you hear your engine pinging from pre-detonation listen to it, this might happen to you
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Nice ain't they Crying or Very sad my theory is I had a leak at the head causing the hole in the piston on #4 and providing too much air for the air/fuel mixture which caused the rest of the problems with the pistons. When the hold formed in the piston that caused loss of oil which could have ruined the rings? I'm going to have to replace all four of the pistons but as I do i'm trying to figure out what exactly went wrong so I will not repeat my mistakes. Any information is much appreciated! Oh btw this engine ran fine all the way from p'cola, FL to chattanooga, tn for bug-a-pulluza after we got back it started having problems which of course led to this. Thanks again for the help!
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Last edited by kerian159 on Sat May 30, 2009 9:33 am; edited 1 time in total
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

and running freakin lean!! Too hot and pinging mean death!!! Shocked

time for some AA p&c's and new Jake heads.

What carb/s are you running? Stock? rebuild em.
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kerian159
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the carb i'm running is for now a weber progressive (bad words i know) but it's all i've got at the moment and when it ran it ran real well getting 20mpg on the trip to TN. I've got the rebuild kit for it and i'm going to rebuild it before putting it back together. The reason I think I was leaking at the head is that I tried to adjust the carb but all adjustments were not changing the engine at all.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kerian159 wrote:
the carb i'm running is for now a weber progressive (bad words i know) but it's all i've got at the moment and when it ran it ran real well getting 20mpg on the trip to TN. I've got the rebuild kit for it and i'm going to rebuild it before putting it back together. The reason I think I was leaking at the head is that I tried to adjust the carb but all adjustments were not changing the engine at all.


That carb didn't do you any favors. If you don't go back to FI, at least find a good set of dual carbs. You will be ahead in the long run.
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kerian159
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would like to have dual carbs on it but due to lack of $ i'm kinda stuck with what i've got at the moment.
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then atleast setup the jetting right! too lean!

Heck there was a 914 guy who did what you did twice!! only took 3 laps on a track to do it too...sold everything. Now if only he got the AFR down before driving it around like you should too.
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70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles
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kerian159
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will be looking very closely at the AFR after I put the engine back together! Before when the engine was still running I set the timing at 30 degrees and was messing with the carb to try and get it to stop pinging but nothing I did on the carb would effect the engine. So i'm trying to figure out if the head leak would actually cause that much of a differance on the AFR.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

But what did you actually do to the carb? No screw on the outside is going to fix an issue like that, you have to dismantle it and change the jets. How were the rubber boots on the intake runners? I think the head leak was a result of the lean condition, not the cause.
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kerian159
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the boots on the intake runners are new. and the engine was running great then all of a sudden it started to ping.
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many times have I written here to stop playing with the timing as this will result? 30 to 32 degrees max advance or this will happen.

Classic detonation damage on a VW bus. It is literally like 1000 little hammers pounding on the top of the piston.
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kerian159
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it was set to 30 degrees. set with a timing light at 2000 rpm
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what distributor you have in there, but the centrifical advance should all be in by about 3500-3800 RPMs. Vacuum hose(s) off.

When it is all in, it just will not advance anymore no matter how high the engine revs up.
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
it was set to 30 degrees. set with a timing light at 2000 rpm


30 - 32 is the correct number and one would use premium (91 or higher) fuel.

I would run her up to 3200 - 3500 or where-ever she stops advancing. If the vacuum lines were attached and the timing set at 30 degrees with a mark instead of a dial on the timing light, I would agree that you may have had a lean mixture. Normally the timing will advance until about 2800 rpm then retard a little. All sources of advance must be attached - vacuum and mechanical. That damage is classic detonation in a VW.

For what it is worth, I know this damage because my 1971 did the exact same thing back in 1976 when I set the timing to 38 degrees on someone else's recommendation.
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ahh thanks. would there be any other damage inside the case due to pre-detonation that I should look for?
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kerian159 wrote:
it was set to 30 degrees. set with a timing light at 2000 rpm


If you are setting the timing at 30° BTDC at 2000 rpm you are running at least five (and maybe more) degrees of timing over what is going to be best for your engine. No wonder it was pinging and holed a piston.

Time it as 28° BTDC at 3500-3800 rpm with the hoses off. The advance has to be all the way in to time it. You do not need a tach, just rev it until the timing does not advance anymore.
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