Ball Joints FAQ

[raygreenwood]

I would NEVER tack weld a ball joint of any type.

Understand...that inside any of them...is a plastic shell....usually a nylon alloy. It will have a maximum temp range of about 200-225.

Understand that the way a ball joint is constructed...and if its installed with suspension tension on it....the plastic packing inside ...which is THE critical part of tension and tolerance...will have pressure on it.

At 66 lbs of force...which is nothing inside of a ball joint...6/6 Nylon will deflect..meaning dent and flow at about 450 F....even if it reaches that temp only for a second or two. Constant max running temp at this low pressure is about 385F.

Now....at about 250-265 lbs of force....the 6/6 Nylon dents and flows at a meager 195F....

There is no way you can make a decent tack weld on two pieces of cold steel can be welded only 1" away from a heat sensitive plastic...without risk.

A mig weld arc temp is about 6,000- 8,000 F...and the actual metal temp at the point of fusion is about 2300 F. Even 3-5 seconds of this temp can put heat soak through the thin ball joint cup wall.

Ray

[SGKent]

[rider28]

Hello everyone I’m in need of some help with my baywindow. Mine is slammed and just a couple days ago I busted a ball joint. What are some of the ways you have slammed your bays and the ride is not so rough.

[SGKent]

Sorry - I haven't slammed my bay so I have a nice cushy ride. We have a whole thread here on slammed bays. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=156211
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[Abscate]

And heres the link to

"I slammed my Bay and it rides like shinola - how do I fix it?"
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[airschooled]

First time, I slammed it with fourteen humans in the cargo area. Drove fine, but a little slow in the acceleration department.

Nowadays, I mostly slam it on boulders and trails.

But if I actually wanted an answer, I would check the link SGKent posted. I would also try to join a local club and see if any other members have lowered buses you could ride in, as a litmus test of what they can and can't be.

Robbie
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[popuppopdog]

[wcfvw69]

You don't change the original ball joints or tie rods if they are in spec still because the only replacements available are inferior to what's on there now from VW. I think I mentioned my 50 year old original tie rods are still on my 67 bug. They have zero play and the grease boots are still fine. I'll run them until they show measurable wear or play.
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[SGKent]

if the ball joints are in spec, and the tires aren't showing signs of weird wear, and the bus alignment is Ok then replace the ball joint boots if they are torn. Grease the ball joints first to push out any debris. Earlier bay ball joints had spots to insert a zerk fitting. The aftermarket ones are inferior to replacements. If one broke when it was lowered, it is likely whomever put in in clocked it wrong, or it had a defect. See Bentley for the how it should be clocked.

Lowering bays is like motorcycle custom design, this year's style is discarded by buyers as quickly as it seems cool. See it all the time, "well that style was really hot a few years ago - geez it is beautiful and so much work went into it - it would have brought probably $45K then but now it is only worth $9K for the engine cause we don't want the tires or frame etc." Stock buses never go out of style.
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[popuppopdog]

[popuppopdog]

[quote="SGKent"]if the ball joints are in spec, and the tires aren't showing signs of weird wear, and the bus alignment is Ok then replace the ball joint boots if they are torn. Grease the ball joints first to push out any debris. /quote]

Thanks for the input, these ball joints have no zerk fittings, but saw a post on installing them, your thoughts, all read your article on catalytic converters will pm you on that , I have questions

Thanks

[jtauxe]

FYI, people, volktronix has Nakata Bus ball joints available again on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/382268367946

Note: I have no association with this seller. I just noticed that he has Nakata ball joints again, so I thought I'd provide a link since I know folks are looking for these. Got another set myself.
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1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
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[SGKent]

BTW - if this is what is you are referring to, that is a tie rod. And, you do not use green Loctite to hold it together.

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[heimlich]

Are you able to use Beetle ball joints in your Bus?
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[sodbuster]

[jeb1978]

So on the "bench" test mentioned a few times in this thread about trying to turn the studs with the heads in a vice...

I purchased a set of 4 Nakata's based on various recommendations last month. All of them act the same in a vice, you can spin down the lock nut without turning the stud. I can't turn the studs by hand, but you can grab the flats with an 11 or 12 mm wrench and spin the studs with some effort (not a huge amount but it takes a full hand on the wrench, not just a finger).

Not sure what other folks experience with these parts are. I understand they are new and this method isn't very scientific.

The Febi (made in Germany) ball joints put on my bus in 2005 are still tight after 10k or so miles... the steering will not return to center after turning, you have to turn the wheel back to center. I'm tired of the notchy steering. I just drilled the tops, added grease zerks, and put 5-10 pumps of grease in each one today as a test to see if that helps any before I tear the front end apart further.

I have a 1968 bus I'm trying to get driveable... it has the original VW stamped ball joints with the threaded inserts. A good flushing with fresh grease has them where they move freely back and forth and rotating nicely. It definitely takes less effort to turn the front wheels lock to lock (when the front end is in the air) than the 1969.
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1969 Westfalia 1600 Single Port

[Joey]

Stiff steering is not always ball joint related. The steering dampers sold these days are crazy stiff. Especially the Boge ones. To verify if the ball joints are too tight jack up the front of the bus and place it on jack stands and disconnect the tie rods from the spindles. If you try moving the spindle with the suspension hanging down it's going to seem stiff. Place a jack under the bottom ball joint and jack up the suspension until the bus just starts lifting off the jack stand. The spindle should now turn easily with no binding. Check the tie rod ends to make sure they aren't too stiff. I had a tie rod with really tight ends on my '65 bug that made the steering stiff and not return to center. Check the drag link as well. Grab it and twist it. It should move with some resistance. The steering box can be checked be removing the drag link from the steering box drop arm. It should move with no binding.
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‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle

[ccpalmer]

Anyone have good luck with any brand of ball joints lately? I'm looking to do mine and am wondering what has been working well for people.

Thanks!
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'71 Westy

[deezal]

I've had the delphi tc134 ball joints on for a year now and are working fine.