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swhitcomb
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Joined: November 05, 2003
Posts: 5673
Location: Inwood WV
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 Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:11 am Post subject: |
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Be careful with the wire brush. Don't scatch the paint. I'd use a scotchbrite pad or some 0000 steel wool.
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:00 am Post subject: |
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| swhitcomb wrote: |
| Be careful with the wire brush. Don't scatch the paint. I'd use a scotchbrite pad or some 0000 steel wool. |
I'm using a plastic scrubbing brush, but I'll try those too...
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Beetlebaum
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Joined: December 04, 2008
Posts: 2181
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:51 am Post subject: |
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| LeviMan2001 wrote: |
| This is going to be cool! A patina super! I say pop the bumpers off and lower it on stock wheels. And it'd be sweet! |
Oh, you mean sort of like this? There are more pictures of TheRustySuper's Super lowered/slammed and with other wheels too. 
Just ask him to post them here if you want to see or go to the Super/Late Model forum and look for it.
TheRustySuper, I think that yours looks really nice lowered.
And mine is cool lowered too. 
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:12 am Post subject: |
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Oh yeah, lowering is definately on my list of things to do on this car! I think I'll keep the bumpers though...I like the look of it better with bumpers. Unless I change my mind when I pull them off to strip the paint.
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LeviMan2001
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Joined: April 11, 2009
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Location: Alaska
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TheRustySuper
Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Here's how the paint removal is going so far. Using the scraper/brush/0000 steel wool in various combinations with the oven cleaner is working well. The patina on this thing is gonna be cool, it looks like the OG paint is already worn down to primer all around the edges of the indented part of the hood. I'll buff it at some point and see if it gets shiney
If you try this for yourself...wear gloves. As you can see in the below picture, it has turned my fingernails brown, and that can't be good...
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LeviMan2001
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Joined: April 11, 2009
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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| LeviMan2001 wrote: |
| Cool, but how bout throwing some clear on the bare parts so you don't get those rusting after a while. |
I'm gonna do that...should I get some clear varnish to paint on there with a large brush? If I get larger sections I'll spray them...
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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Got about a half hour in today, made a bit more progress:
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:23 am Post subject: |
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Figured out why the engine was knocking...the timing was set really far off. Now I need to re-adjust the carb, it hesitates under load, but nowhere near as bad as it used to. I hope to get the hood all stripped down today...
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:00 pm Post subject: |
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Got rid of the on a fairly large portion of the hood, and figured out how to make it SHINEY Used an electric buffer and some Turtlewax rubbing compound. I think I'm gonna try some Jasco Green Strip on it as well...it's not aerosol so I can't inhale it on accident (so Mom is happy), and I've heard it works better than the oven cleaner I've been using. I want to move faster lol
Notice the difference...it looks much better when it's not in the garage under flouresent lights:
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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Ugh. Still stripping paint, but its not going well. It's taking FOREVER, about 6 hours for less than half of the hood. I've tried oven cleaner, and now I'm about to finish off some Mostenblockers lift-off 4. The problem is, I'm running into a ton of spots where there's no OG paint left. I guess some sanding occured before the repaint. I wouldn't mind if it weren't so hard to get the paint off. I think I'll try Jasco Green Strip, I've heard the paint wrinkles and just scrapes off. Any other suggestions? If the Jasco won't work I'll probably just give up, I can't see myself scrubbing my entire car like that, and I'd go broke buying steel wool and stuff. The tips of my fingers are numb from only an hour or so of work tonight.
The only photos I have are crappy cell phone pics, sorry:
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Beetlebaum
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Joined: December 04, 2008
Posts: 2181
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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swhitcomb
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Joined: November 05, 2003
Posts: 5673
Location: Inwood WV
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| Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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Try acetone. Remember when I said 20 to 50 hours? It's a pain in the ass. It would bs easier to paint the car. I am in the process of getting all the rust repair panels together to paint mine.
It looks like someone sanded some rock chips out and did some paint prep on your car. A cheap paint job might be a better idea for your car.
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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| swhitcomb wrote: |
Try acetone. Remember when I said 20 to 50 hours? It's a pain in the ass. It would bs easier to paint the car. I am in the process of getting all the rust repair panels together to paint mine.
It looks like someone sanded some rock chips out and did some paint prep on your car. A cheap paint job might be a better idea for your car. |
That cheap paint job idea sounds like a good idea...it'll have to wait 'till I get a job though, unless it's REALLY cheap I don't think acetone would work for me, my parents don't want me to work with anything too toxic. I may give the Green strip a shot, and at least see what I have to work with. I love how the painter went to the effort to properly prepare the surface and grind down rock chips, and masked off everything properly when he primed it, but got red paint all over the weatherstripping, aircleaner, fresh air box, etc. Not to mention using a cheap crappy paint that now looks like lizard skin.
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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Decided to give up. There's not gonna be enough OG paint left for me to justify many many hours of work into this thing. I think I'll get a cheap couple hundred dollar paintjob over what I have just so the car is shiney for a few years, and then do a proper body-off resto when I have the money for that.
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swhitcomb
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Joined: November 05, 2003
Posts: 5673
Location: Inwood WV
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| Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:14 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Jeremy,
Good idea. If you do the prep yourself, and mask and remove the right things, a $100 paint job can look good and last a really long time. I saw a 67 Bug at a car show a few weekends ago. It had a $100 maaco paint job on it that was 11 years old. It still looked good.
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TheRustySuper
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Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
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| Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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It's funny, you're the second person to mention a maaco paint job, my dad suggested it too. The biggest issue for me won't be the paint, I can pay for a cheap paintjob. It'll be the bodywork. Every panel on the car has at least one dent or rust or both. Fortunately the only rust holes are in the bottom of the rear quarters, so that's all the bodywork I'll have to pay someone to do (unless I can have a friend weld it for me or somthing). I dunno what to do about the dents. The hood is all wavy, as are parts of the doors. A couple small dings in the fenders and roof. Don't wanna use much bondo. I'll get pics up, there's some of the rust a couple pages back.
lol, my name's not Jeremy, it's Clark Jeremy is just who I quoted in my signature.
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unknown force
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Joined: September 25, 2008
Posts: 234
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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have you looked at fenders/hoods off of craigslist? might be able to just find some from a different car if you're gonna get a paint job at maaco or whatever. lot less of a hassle and might save you money
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swhitcomb
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Joined: November 05, 2003
Posts: 5673
Location: Inwood WV
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:05 am Post subject: |
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| TheRustySuper wrote: |
It's funny, you're the second person to mention a maaco paint job, my dad suggested it too. The biggest issue for me won't be the paint, I can pay for a cheap paintjob. It'll be the bodywork. Every panel on the car has at least one dent or rust or both. Fortunately the only rust holes are in the bottom of the rear quarters, so that's all the bodywork I'll have to pay someone to do (unless I can have a friend weld it for me or somthing). I dunno what to do about the dents. The hood is all wavy, as are parts of the doors. A couple small dings in the fenders and roof. Don't wanna use much bondo. I'll get pics up, there's some of the rust a couple pages back.
lol, my name's not Jeremy, it's Clark Jeremy is just who I quoted in my signature. |
Oh, sorry. I should've read more carefully. Check this out:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46779
Practice a little with it, and you can get almost every dent and ding in the car out with no filler at all. The rust in the bottom corners is a different issue. The patch panels are really cheap. Around $20 each.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-no-weld-panel-repair-kit.html
You could install it with that. It's a little pricey, but no welding and should last for years to come.
You could try and find some better fenders and a better hood, but with a little patience and practice the hammer and dolley method is really easy. There are some YouTube videos you can watch to get the idea of it. I put the nose of my 74 Ghia back to damn near perfect with no filler at all. I'd never done it before, just kept playing until I was satisfied.
BTW, expect that little corner of rust to be much worse when you get all the old paint and body filler off of it.
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