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Pop Top Shocks Rock!
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Jon_slider
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Location: Santa Cruz, Crowdifornia
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 1:18 pm    Post subject: Pop Top Shocks Rock! Reply with quote

Hello FolksWesties

Today I received and installed the pop top shock kit from username Jackbombay..
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=798951

It was too easy, no blood, no sweat, no cussing.

They work Fantastic.

I can raise my top super easily even with a surfboard on top, which used to take considerable effort.

Closing is equally easy, both with and without the board on top, pulling the lid down (very easily), it stops wherever I let go, allowing me to adjust the canvas before latching, without having to hold the top up with one hand..

This is one of the most gratifying upgrades I have done to my Westy..

HIGHLY recommended.

here are some photos to show how the top stays wherever I leave it, even part way open, and even with the weight of a surfboard on top..

inside
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outside
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hardware open
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and this is all you see with the top down
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


note, because of the position of my surf rack, I mounted the shock 1" lower on the pop top than the instructions recommend.. everything still works perfectly!
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scottjk
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Joined: May 31, 2006
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Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 1:27 pm    Post subject: I agree Reply with quote

I agree 100%. Well worth the money. One of the only projects that went off without any problems during the last month. I love well designed products.

Scott
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jackbombay
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad you like the shocks!
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Gas struts to pop your top easily!

Pop Top strut kits now available for late Bay window Westies Smile


Samba ad here.


DIY artificial rain gutters (ARGs)
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Sigeats
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Totally agree . . . one of the best modifications I've made. If you don't have them, get 'um. I can easily lift the top, and stop half way if I want with a fully loaded rack. Love 'um.
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ranchero
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What he said.

Sigeats wrote:
Totally agree . . . one of the best modifications I've made. If you don't have them, get 'um. I can easily lift the top, and stop half way if I want with a fully loaded rack. Love 'um.

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Bruce Wayne
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

they are fantastic! can lift the top with my kayak up there with no problem. if you don't have them,get them. great product!!



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yerbaadam
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Joined: June 21, 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OoooooHh!! This is definitly getting ordered before I hook up my solar palnels. Thanks for the tip!
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westynova
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Already have a set but still need to install them. Now I am more motivated to put this project up the priority list of van fixes.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is anything done to improve the mounting area on the fiberglass top or is it just drilled and through bolted? I would be concerned over time that the fiberglass would develop fractures in the gel coat and eventually possibly crack. Brilliant idea. I like how the other end does utilize the stock hinge for attachment. I don't like drilling into the sheet metal. Are these common struts? Regards.
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Hallvalla
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do these shocks make it harder to close? I know, weird question, but I have concerns because I have a 2" foam pad up top so it takes quite a bit of elbow grease to close the poptop. Or do they relax a little when you are the "closing" angle?

I'd like to put on my Thule box eventually, and these shocks would be a great help.
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Westfalia pop-top is much thicker and stronger near the hinge area. You will find that it's about 1/4+" thick and very very strong, much thicker than the rest of the poptop.

Furthermore, you can install now, and you will be in the same boat as the rest of us who have had zero cracking for 1 or 2 years. Then you have a 1 or 2 years window, to watch SAMBA for reports of cracking, and brace yours up with a doubler.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sodo wrote:
The Westfalia pop-top is much thicker and stronger near the hinge area. You will find that it's about 1/4+" thick and very very strong, much thicker than the rest of the poptop.

Furthermore, you can install now, and you will be in the same boat as the rest of us who have had zero cracking for 1 or 2 years. Then you have a 1 or 2 years window, to watch SAMBA for reports of cracking, and brace yours up with a doubler.


Good to know. I work with fiberglass off and on. I had the top off of my 82 to replace the canvas. While it has held up nice, it was not the strongest design I have come across. Mine has the wood frame that holds the staples and vinyl trim. Perhaps a bracket to triangulate the side of the top to the wood frame to lessen any flex. Regards.
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

> drilled and through bolted?

yes, the same as the surf rack gutters, in the case of the surf rack, with a metal plate on the back, in the case of the shocks, a metal washer on both sides.. The bolt leans on metal both outside and inside, thereby spreading the load, its not all on the bolt at the hole.. methinks your theoretical concern has cracks in its assumptions..<g> dont worry, be happy Smile

> Do these shocks make it harder to close?

yes, you do need to pull down on the top to close it, but to me that makes it easier than having to hold it up.. it takes very little force to lower the top, and the closer you get to closed, the less force required

> do they relax a little when you are the "closing" angle?

yes, at about 6" away from closed, the top drops by its own weight, for your concern closing down on your foam pad, I do not think there would be any added resistance from the shocks being installed.. except if your foam resists closing from a higher distance than 6" away from closing.. there IS still shock(ing) resistance if the top is 2feet from latched, not much maybe 3-5 lbs of force, guessing.... at what distance from latched does your bunk stop engage?

> watch SAMBA for reports of cracking,

youre cracking me up!
I agree the pop top is quite beefy, 1/4"+ where the bolt goes thru, , now no more wise cracks eh?Smile, its just Shocking to hear so many wise cracks pop up..
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Hallvalla
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Jon. Sounds like they would work fine. I just have to give the last few inches the old grab pull down with my weight to get the pop top to "pop" shut.
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon_slider wrote:


> watch SAMBA for reports of cracking,

youre cracking me up!
I agree the pop top is quite beefy, 1/4"+ where the bolt goes thru, , now no more wise cracks eh?Smile, its just Shocking to hear so many wise cracks pop up..

In all fairness.. regardless the thickness, some cracking and crazing is bound to happen over time. 1/8".. 1/4".. and even thicker. Its the nature of FG reinforced resins.
This could be minimized by bedding the hardware in a semihard-flexible material, like marine bedding compound...

Still over time, if hardware can work against a material it will cause wear.

I have had FG crazing and cracking on most every boat I've had over the past 30 yrs or so.. It just comes with the territory.

It looks to me like the lift-struts are only "helpers".. the main structure is still held in place by the stock liftiing config... I'd hazard a guess, that any cracking or crazing will be very minimal. Keep thehardware tight and snug.. and maybe near-zero wear.


I will probably give this a shot down the road at some point.. but I'd like a prettier exterior hardwar solution than the cap nut.
Can that hardware be turned around with a less obtrusive bolt head on the out side? Something more like the stock bolts used for the hinge mechanism?
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buildyourown
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those carrying a some weight on the box: How hard is it to pop the top?
I have the medium shocks, and with my Yakima Skybox, it takes every bit of strength I have, standing on the bed, to get the top up. And I'm not a lightweight.
Suggestions?
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1621
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

buildyourown wrote:
For those carrying a some weight on the box: How hard is it to pop the top?
I have the medium shocks, and with my Yakima Skybox, it takes every bit of strength I have, standing on the bed, to get the top up. And I'm not a lightweight.
Suggestions?


I'm using the HD shocks and have no problems "getting it up" with the Skybox up there. I'm not adding a lot of weight up top, but there certainly is a difference between lifting with the skybox and without.

With nothing up top, the shocks practically lift the top on their own to just prior to lock out.
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j_dirge wrote:
...but I'd like a prettier exterior hardwar solution than the cap nut.
Can that hardware be turned around with a less obtrusive bolt head on the out side? Something more like the stock bolts used for the hinge mechanism?


Agree,

I think the way I'm going to solve this is by installing a roof top rack at the same time and use the hole in the artificial gutter to bolt the shock
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Bruce Wayne
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

madspaniard wrote:
j_dirge wrote:
...but I'd like a prettier exterior hardwar solution than the cap nut.
Can that hardware be turned around with a less obtrusive bolt head on the out side? Something more like the stock bolts used for the hinge mechanism?


Agree,

I think the way I'm going to solve this is by installing a roof top rack at the same time and use the hole in the artificial gutter to bolt the shock


I lucked out when I put my poptop shocks on. the hole for the artificial rain gutters worked perfectly. the less holes in the top the better. I plan to hit the nut with some black paint or Plasti-Dip to make it blend in.

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nohabusguy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Installed mine last nite. Due to my impatience, I installed the shocks before I received the instructions from Jack Bombay -- so the holes on the pop top were drilled down too low. However, it seems to work just fine with my empty cargo box on top, three yakima cross bars and my 55 W solar panel. This weekend I am loading up the cargo box, along with two kayaks. Highly recommended (but do read the instructions!!).
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