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agreendaya
Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2006
Posts: 1307
Location: Winthrop, MA USA
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 Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 6:50 pm Post subject: Radiator fan switch replacement... |
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So it's been bothering me that the fan doesnt come on as soon and as consistently as I would like, so I got a new switch. Now my question, any tips for getting the thing in?
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'74 Bug - Gone
'69 Westy - Gone
'74 Westy - Gone
'78 Transporter - Gone
'69 Baja - Gone
'91 Vanagon Carat - Gone
‘71 Bus - Gone
Current: ‘74 Westy 2.0L, hydraulic valves, dual EMPI 34s |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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Have the system at least moderately cool and make sure the pressure is relieved by loosening and retightening the cap. Make sure the gasket is in place on the new switch and then unscrew the old making sure the gasket comes off with it. Quickly insert and tighten the new one so you loose little coolant in the process.
Run and replenish coolant any lost coolant. Bleed if you think you need to.
If you are running a stock 87° thermostat, you may be happier with a XXX-75 fan switch. |
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agreendaya
Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2006
Posts: 1307
Location: Winthrop, MA USA
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| Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, not quite sure which thermostat I've got. Got the fan switch from Van Cafe, there was only one option, so I took it. I'll probably do the thermostat at some point later, but fan switch for now.
_________________
'74 Bug - Gone
'69 Westy - Gone
'74 Westy - Gone
'78 Transporter - Gone
'69 Baja - Gone
'91 Vanagon Carat - Gone
‘71 Bus - Gone
Current: ‘74 Westy 2.0L, hydraulic valves, dual EMPI 34s |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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PDXWesty
Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2006
Posts: 6245
Location: Portland OR
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| Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:36 pm Post subject: |
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I was able to change mine without losing any significant coolant. Maybe a quarter cup. Pull the old one slowly, and when it's just about to pop out, pull it out quickly and cover the hole with your thumb. Get the second one ready and quickly make the switch. Should be fairly straight forward.
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89 Westy 2.1 Auto |
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agreendaya
Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2006
Posts: 1307
Location: Winthrop, MA USA
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| Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:48 pm Post subject: |
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Sure enough, that was a piece of cake. I was thinking it'd be a bit more difficult...
Thanks for the tips, I imagine that would be pretty disastrous were the coolant at all hot.
_________________
'74 Bug - Gone
'69 Westy - Gone
'74 Westy - Gone
'78 Transporter - Gone
'69 Baja - Gone
'91 Vanagon Carat - Gone
‘71 Bus - Gone
Current: ‘74 Westy 2.0L, hydraulic valves, dual EMPI 34s |
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Blix
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Joined: August 12, 2009
Posts: 131
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:58 am Post subject: |
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could someone please break down the differences in the 3 different radiator fan switches that come up when I search on Bus Depot. Here are the different titles/descriptions for the different switches that will fit my van.
Radiator Fan Switch
95-90c
Raditor Fan Switch
3-point, low temp version, 75-70/82-77c
Radiator Fan Switch
Stock, 3-point, 85-74/93-82c
Thanks for the info everyone! 
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When I say whas up, you know where I'm from.
84 Westy |
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crazyvwvanman
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Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 9923
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:17 am Post subject: |
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Two different switches were used on waterboxers, with the 1.9 switch running at higher radiator temps than the later 2.1 switch. The 3rd much lower temp switch is from a different VW/Audi vehicle.
The first of the 2 numbers is the radiator temp that makes the switch turn on and the second number is the temp it turns back off at. There has to be some difference between the on/off temps or the thing would switch on/off like crazy. So 95-90 means - on at 95, off at 90
When there is a second set of 2 numbers it means it is a 2 speed switch.
85-74/93-82 means 85 is low speed on, 93 is high speed on
Using too low of a temp switch can cause problems, notably for A/C equipped 86-91 models. The lowest temp version turns on high speed at a lower temp than the stock switch for those years turned on low speed. Since high speed also disables the A/C people with those years may have no A/C a lot in hot weather.
On 82-85 models using the lowest temp switch can cause damage over time to the fuse panel. The fuse for the fan can overheat and melt the plastic that holds the spring clips for the fuse. It is not a lot of fun to replace those early fuse panels but repairs can be done by moving the fan fuse to a separate fuse holder and VW makes holders that attach to the end of the panel.
Mark
| Blix wrote: |
could someone please break down the differences in the 3 different radiator fan switches that come up when I search on Bus Depot. Here are the different titles/descriptions for the different switches that will fit my van.
Radiator Fan Switch
95-90c
Raditor Fan Switch
3-point, low temp version, 75-70/82-77c
Radiator Fan Switch
Stock, 3-point, 85-74/93-82c
Thanks for the info everyone! |
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Blix
Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2009
Posts: 131
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:30 am Post subject: |
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| crazyvwvanman wrote: |
Two different switches were used on waterboxers, with the 1.9 switch running at higher radiator temps than the later 2.1 switch. The 3rd much lower temp switch is from a different VW/Audi vehicle.
The first of the 2 numbers is the radiator temp that makes the switch turn on and the second number is the temp it turns back off at. There has to be some difference between the on/off temps or the thing would switch on/off like crazy. So 95-90 means - on at 95, off at 90
When there is a second set of 2 numbers it means it is a 2 speed switch.
85-74/93-82 means 85 is low speed on, 93 is high speed on
Using too low of a temp switch can cause problems, notably for A/C equipped 86-91 models. The lowest temp version turns on high speed at a lower temp than the stock switch for those years turned on low speed. Since high speed also disables the A/C people with those years may have no A/C a lot in hot weather.
On 82-85 models using the lowest temp switch can cause damage over time to the fuse panel. The fuse for the fan can overheat and melt the plastic that holds the spring clips for the fuse. It is not a lot of fun to replace those early fuse panels but repairs can be done by moving the fan fuse to a separate fuse holder and VW makes holders that attach to the end of the panel.
Mark
| Blix wrote: |
could someone please break down the differences in the 3 different radiator fan switches that come up when I search on Bus Depot. Here are the different titles/descriptions for the different switches that will fit my van.
Radiator Fan Switch
95-90c
Raditor Fan Switch
3-point, low temp version, 75-70/82-77c
Radiator Fan Switch
Stock, 3-point, 85-74/93-82c
Thanks for the info everyone! |
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Thanks for the excellent reply crazyvwvanman. Which switch would you get if you were me? I am thinking the 1st one listed 95-90 would be the default and best way to go, would you recommend running the 3rd one listed (stock, 3 point, 85-74/93-82)?
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When I say whas up, you know where I'm from.
84 Westy |
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crazyvwvanman
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Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 9923
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:39 am Post subject: |
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I use the 2.1 version 3 point 85-74/93-82 switch, in all models.
Mark
| Blix wrote: |
| crazyvwvanman wrote: |
Two different switches were used on waterboxers, with the 1.9 switch running at higher radiator temps than the later 2.1 switch. The 3rd much lower temp switch is from a different VW/Audi vehicle...............
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Thanks for the excellent reply crazyvwvanman. Which switch would you get if you were me? I am thinking the 1st one listed 95-90 would be the default and best way to go, would you recommend running the 3rd one listed (stock, 3 point, 85-74/93-82)? |
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Neptuno
Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2004
Posts: 141
Location: DelCo, PA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
Have the system at least moderately cool and make sure the pressure is relieved by loosening and retightening the cap. Make sure the gasket is in place on the new switch and then unscrew the old making sure the gasket comes off with it. Quickly insert and tighten the new one so you loose little coolant in the process.
Run and replenish coolant any lost coolant. Bleed if you think you need to.
If you are running a stock 87° thermostat, you may be happier with a XXX-75 fan switch. |
Ok Im giving CPR to this thread because I have a question about getting the old switch out... I keep looking for what tool was used to loosen and then tighten the radiator fan switch...
Is it that simple that no one mentions it?
_________________
Lonely Vanagon running up and down Delco
| joetiger wrote: |
Also, if you look closely, the drapes in the house match the Vanagon, illustrating outstanding thematic continuity. |
Last edited by Neptuno on Mon Jul 14, 2014 1:26 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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weisswurst
Samba Member
Joined: May 07, 2013
Posts: 233
Location: south florida
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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anyone know which switch for a totally stock 82 1.6NA diesel?
(yeah I know it's slow...)
I'm about to tear into the cooling system and would like to get the right one!
Jeff |
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PDXWesty
Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2006
Posts: 6245
Location: Portland OR
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Neptuno wrote: |
Ok Im giving CPR to this thread because I have a question about getting the old switch out... I keep looking for what tool was used to loosen and then tighten the radiator fan switch...
Is it that simple that no one mentions it? |
I can't remember if I used a deep socket, box or open end wrench, but it was nothing special. It should be obvious when you need to do it, straight forward and simple.
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89 Westy 2.1 Auto |
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Neptuno
Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2004
Posts: 141
Location: DelCo, PA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 1:38 pm Post subject: |
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| PDXWesty wrote: |
| Neptuno wrote: |
Ok Im giving CPR to this thread because I have a question about getting the old switch out... I keep looking for what tool was used to loosen and then tighten the radiator fan switch...
Is it that simple that no one mentions it? |
I can't remember if I used a deep socket, box or open end wrench, but it was nothing special. It should be obvious when you need to do it, straight forward and simple. |
Maybe the reason Im searching is that mine is an 85 and that the switch sits low on the drivers side of the vanagon like this one
_________________
Lonely Vanagon running up and down Delco
| joetiger wrote: |
Also, if you look closely, the drapes in the house match the Vanagon, illustrating outstanding thematic continuity. |
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crazyvwvanman
Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 9923
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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Get a deep 30mmm socket or a deep 1 1/4" socket.
Mark |
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Syncro Jael
Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2013
Posts: 2204
Location: Utah
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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| crazyvwvanman wrote: |
Since high speed also disables the A/C people with those years may have no A/C a lot in hot weather.
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Hmmm...
I noticed recently a couple of things that really make a difference in the A/C running.
I normally wear a bra on front with the Big Tube bumpers and have a winch blocking the airflow to the radiator.
Taking off the bra made a difference in air flow. It ran a little cooler.
Moving the winch to the rear receiver also made a difference in cooling.
The biggest thing I noticed is once the high speed fan kicked in the whole system ran very cool. The air conditioner would blow colder air than when you were on the highway and you could see it on the temp gauge. It would run down in the 170-180 range when shot with an IR gun on the radiator.
So for some reason mine still cycles and runs the compressor even with the fan on stage 2?  Bra-less seems to be the way to go when it is hot!
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
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crazyvwvanman
Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 9923
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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Your van has 3 fan speeds. The rad fan speed #2 is turned on by the A/C when freon pressure is high and yes max A/C should then be available. Speed #2 is pretty high and loud. The highest fan speed #3 is turned on by the radiator temp switch when the radiator is too hot. Then the A/C compressor clutch is also disabled.
Vanagons have radiator fans with 2 fan speeds triggered by 2 temp switches in the radiator, low and high. Most use a dual switch with 3 wires to it. Early vans used 2 separate temp switches. 86+ with A/C have a middle fan speed that is only controlled by the A/C.
Mark
| Syncro Jael wrote: |
| crazyvwvanman wrote: |
Since high speed also disables the A/C people with those years may have no A/C a lot in hot weather.
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Hmmm...
I noticed recently a couple of things that really make a difference in the A/C running.
I normally wear a bra on front with the Big Tube bumpers and have a winch blocking the airflow to the radiator.
Taking off the bra made a difference in air flow. It ran a little cooler.
Moving the winch to the rear receiver also made a difference in cooling.
The biggest thing I noticed is once the high speed fan kicked in the whole system ran very cool. The air conditioner would blow colder air than when you were on the highway and you could see it on the temp gauge. It would run down in the 170-180 range when shot with an IR gun on the radiator.
So for some reason mine still cycles and runs the compressor even with the fan on stage 2? Bra-less seems to be the way to go when it is hot! |
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Syncro Jael
Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2013
Posts: 2204
Location: Utah
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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I found these switches and part numbers:
1. Operating temps 75/82C Product Code: 251.959.481.75 (167º/185º F)
2. Operating temps 85/93C Product Code: 251.959.481K (185º/199º F)
3. Operating temps 95/102C Product Code: 951.606.481.00 (203º/216º F)
These were on Pelican Parts for Porsches, but the part number 251.959.481K is identical to the one I just purchased from Van Cafe for a 1987 Syncro. Low speed on at 185º / High on at 199º 
So at what temp does the REALLY HIGH speed come on? Or am I just all screwed up now 
http://www.paragon-products.com/Radiator-Fan-Switch-p/251.959.481k.htm
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Syncro Jael wrote: |
I found these switches and part numbers:
1. Operating temps 75/82C Product Code: 251.959.481.75 (167º/185º F)
2. Operating temps 85/93C Product Code: 251.959.481K (185º/199º F)
3. Operating temps 95/102C Product Code: 951.606.481.00 (203º/216º F)
These were on Pelican Parts for Porsches, but the part number 251.959.481K is identical to the one I just purchased from Van Cafe for a 1987 Syncro. Low speed on at 185º / High on at 199º
So at what temp does the REALLY HIGH speed come on? Or am I just all screwed up now
http://www.paragon-products.com/Radiator-Fan-Switch-p/251.959.481k.htm |
The switches have only two speeds low and high, the middle speed comes on with the AC IIRC. |
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Neptuno
Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2004
Posts: 141
Location: DelCo, PA
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:56 am Post subject: |
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| crazyvwvanman wrote: |
Get a deep 30mmm socket or a deep 1 1/4" socket.
Mark |
Does it gush a lot once its out? not knowing that is keeping me from doing this
_________________
Lonely Vanagon running up and down Delco
| joetiger wrote: |
Also, if you look closely, the drapes in the house match the Vanagon, illustrating outstanding thematic continuity. |
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