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ZackN Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2008 Posts: 182 Location: California
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Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:39 pm Post subject: |
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For those of you like me who seem to be a little slow and question how he got all this info for measuring and whatnot, there are directions. hahaha. After a long time of struggling with this build i finnaly find the instructions! haha
here is a link to all the instructions they have at SAW
ALL INSTRUCTUIONS
and a link for the specific adjusters that he and i used...
VW FRONT END ADJUSTERS
Just note that in the build in the instructuions is different than the build here in that they dont widen the beam. They just make it adjustable. |
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darth brian Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2010 Posts: 226 Location: Riverside, CA
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Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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Thread revival!
So im thinking about doing this to my baja very soon. What im still a little lost on, and this is probably because i havnt torn a vw beam apart and dont really 100% understand how the spring packs are mounted, is the "correct" way to cut, measure, and weld in the adjusters and the "spacer" to widen the beam and use only ones set of stock springs.
The way shown above required some modifications to the springs.
So the stock center piece is 2" wide, as well as the adjusters. So to fit the adjusters in the precise location to use the stock springs w/o modification i would cut out a 4" piece (2" over each side from dead center), have the adjusters welded to the remaining sides of the beam and a 6" center extension tube?
Please let me know if this makes sense to anybody or what the correct way to do it is. I understand the OP made a mistake in measurements but to correct his mistake in measurements he cut and re dimpled his springs. All of the ways that were explained to correct this seem like guesstimated measurements (no offense to anyone). Im just curious if anyone has exact (or close to) measurements on how to do this with one set of springs.
Any help is appreciated! thanks in advance! |
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DHale_510 Samba Member
Joined: August 27, 2010 Posts: 378 Location: Nampa Idaho
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Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 11:02 am Post subject: |
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The torsion springs are full width. A wider beam needs wider springs. The above project used 2 sets of springs, all cut down, and each half if the beam had it's own set of springs. He had enough used stuff to do this rather cheaply but he could weld himself, had time and experience, etc.
Today it's probably just as cheap to convert to a "through rod" design and use a "coil over" system if you need to but all new parts and pay to modify them. Indeed converting to a long travel "link pin" aftermarket system may be close in price today.
Do your own homework, including whatever it takes to get things modified, but get the best you can afford the first time.... |
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darth brian Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2010 Posts: 226 Location: Riverside, CA
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Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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Ok so ive studied this a little bit more. If the 2" stock center grub piece is cut out from the center, and the adjusters are welded to the beam with a spacer tube, lets say 4" like neaders did it. I wouldnt need to re drill the dimple in the spring packs right? I understand i'll need a second set of springs and im ok with that as i dont want the adjusters too close or on top of the beam mounts. So if i cut the spring packs about an inch over from the center of the dimple it should install on each side being stock length and using the stock dimple set up. Please let me know if my research is correct. Im going to be tackling this soon. Thanks! |
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darth brian Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2010 Posts: 226 Location: Riverside, CA
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Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Would i need any extra length of spring on the inside of the adjuster? or just cut it flush with the inside of the adjuster? seems like it wouldnt hurt if there was an inch or so hanging out in the middle of the beam |
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AZ-BUG Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2008 Posts: 477 Location: AZ
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Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 7:08 pm Post subject: |
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Darth, your thinking is correct. When installing the adjusters, keep the distance from the outer edge of the beam to the grub screw constant, and use the stock spring pack (cut an inch of so past the grub screw). The center section between the adjusters will just hold it all together and provide whatever additional width you are looking for.
I built a 6" widened beam without the adjusters... I took a chop saw 3" off center on two beams (removed the arms, spindles, etc, but left the torsion stack in there). I then cleaned it all up, and welded to two halves together. I then took a pipe cutter to the beam in order to do a cut-n-turn, re-welded and was done. You'll need to relocate the steering box, as well as add or relocate the braces that bolt the beam to the frame head. It's actually really easy if you have 2 beams... my second beam was bent on one side from a crash... they gave it to me for free... just used the straight side.
Here's a photo of the end result (sold that car 18 years ago... and still miss it!)
[/img] |
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_dw Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2012 Posts: 46 Location: United States
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Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 7:17 am Post subject: Thing and tweeds and speedos on widened beam |
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A couple of questions that I haven't seen covered yet.
1) If I plan to use Tweeds or Thing spindles, I understand that they are 1" wider than stock beetle spindles, so if I want a total width increase of 6" over a completely stock T1 balljoint beam, then I would need to cut 5" out of my T1 beam, plus add the 1" overall wider Thing/Tweeds spindles, correct?
2) When using a widened beam, is there a speedometer cable option? I know that some people use super beetle cables on non-widened beams, but what is available to take the 3" additional length when using a widened beam and the Tweeds/thing spindles?
Thanks |
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 12:57 pm Post subject: Re: Thing and tweeds and speedos on widened beam |
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_dw wrote: |
2) When using a widened beam, is there a speedometer cable option? I know that some people use super beetle cables on non-widened beams, but what is available to take the 3" additional length when using a widened beam and the Tweeds/thing spindles?
Thanks |
I don't have a wider beam, but with lift spindles I used a Type 3 cable and it reaches with a little slack. But then again, with larger tires and me messing inside the speedo and odometer, I barely use it because its always off. _________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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Big boy 101 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2017 Posts: 2
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Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 2:40 pm Post subject: Re: Building a Widened BJ Beam |
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Is there a place or a person I can pay to build a 6in wider balljoint beam, I do not have access to a welder and I’m pretty bad at it anyway, I’ve been searching high and low and not had any luck, the beam would be for a 67 Baja that doesn’t go off-road very often and is used mainly for the street I just really like the look of widend front end |
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66 Shorty Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2007 Posts: 916 Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 10:12 am Post subject: Re: Building a Widened BJ Beam |
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I just widened my beam 5"... I haven't uploaded pics to this site yet. Only in groups on FB...
I still have to move the mounting points, steering stop, & steering stabilizer, then it's ready to install the new Delrin Bushings, Thing arms, spindles & all new parts including Disc Brakes as well... The material I'm using for the tie rods should be in soon, & the taps are here already...
I'll go upload a couple pics to my gallery...
Before Welding:
After Sandblasting & Welding:
Here are the Thing Arms Sandblasted... I have since removed the ball joints & re-sandblasted them & primed them...
_________________ ~X-Man~
'60's Spatz Buggy body on '74 Chassis (Budget Build)
'69 Bug (Baja-to-be partial daily)
'10 Silverado (My daily) |
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liquidrush Samba Member
Joined: July 18, 2018 Posts: 582 Location: MO
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Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: Building a Widened BJ Beam |
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Ahh, the Acorn table. I have a 4x4 in the shop and I think it goes about 1,800 lbs without the stand. |
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