| Author |
Message |
Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
|
 Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:38 pm Post subject: Getting Impounded-Need F.I. Help |
 |
|
Since it seems my thread is dying, and the F.I. thread is dead, a new post is needed, especially for the fact that if it is not moved by Friday at seven, it will be impounded.
I put in 5 liters of Chevron 91 octane in the tank, and have full fuel flow through the regulator. The pump connection is grounded so the pump runs continuously. The engine spins over, but nothing is happening. When I stomp the pedal, I get a thumping sound. I do have oil pressure now. I tried various firing positions, advancing as far as it would go, and have 12 volts to the coil.
Thank you for any help. 
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:45 pm Post subject: Re: Getting Impounded-Need F.I. Help |
|
|
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
| Since it seems my thread is dying, and the F.I. thread is dead, a new post is needed, especially for the fact that if it is not moved by Friday at seven, it will be impounded. |
Why would a forum moderator impound a thread?
Last edited by KTPhil on Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:47 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Set the timing with a test light to TDC. That will be close enough to start.
Do you know you have a spark at the plugs? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:48 pm Post subject: Re: Getting Impounded-Need F.I. Help |
|
|
| KTPhil wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
| Since it seems my thread is dying, and the F.I. thread is dead, a new post is needed, especially for the fact that if it is not moved by Friday at seven, it will be impounded. |
Why would a forum moderator impound a thread? |
I mean, my Squareback is going to be impounded tomorrow at seven if it is not moved. I do not want to have to deal with that, so I need help A.S.A.P.. Have no one to call for F.I., so a bit stuck.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kyle242gt
Samba Member
Joined: February 26, 2008
Posts: 289
Location: Norcal
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Set timing to TDC or wherever you usually have it, then leave it alone.
Undo the changes to the fuel pump, plug everything in as original.
Fuel pump:
Turn the key on - does the relay click?
Does the fuel pump run for ~2sec?
Do you have fuel pressure at the rail?
Spark:
Do you have 12V to coil + while cranking?
Inspect spark at the plug wire - should be fat, blue, and loud.
Check your pointgap and condition.
Injectors:
Do the injectors fire the priming pulse?
Be sure the trigger point connector is in good condition.
Hook a test light between the coil + and the outer terminals of the trigger point connector while cranking (one at a time): you should see the test light blink blink blink while cranking.
_________________
1967 Type 3 Fastback, gathering parts for resto mod - "Stay on Target!"
gone but not forgotten:
1964 Type 1, sunroof, 1600sp, 4" narrow, 2.5" trans raise, pan smacker
1972 Type 3 Squareback - never did much to it |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| kyle242gt wrote: |
Set timing to TDC or wherever you usually have it, then leave it alone.
Undo the changes to the fuel pump, plug everything in as original.
Fuel pump:
Turn the key on - does the relay click?
Does the fuel pump run for ~2sec?
Do you have fuel pressure at the rail?
Spark:
Do you have 12V to coil + while cranking?
Inspect spark at the plug wire - should be fat, blue, and loud.
Check your pointgap and condition.
Injectors:
Do the injectors fire the priming pulse?
Be sure the trigger point connector is in good condition.
Hook a test light between the coil + and the outer terminals of the trigger point connector while cranking (one at a time): you should see the test light blink blink blink while cranking. |
I should have been more clear, for some reason the stress is getting to me.
I posted earlier, and the suggestion was run the pump continuously, as my front relay has issues. It clicks every now and then, when the key is turned on.
As I am by myself, I cannot do as many tests. I did not change anything since the last time it ran. Point gap was just checked a couple miles before I parked it. So, it should run, but for some reason it is not, thus the qualm at hand.
Kyle, thank you for your help! Fuel pressure was good the last time I checked. Will do that. Everything else is/should be fine, as nothing has changed.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The point gap could have slipped, they could have carbonized.....never assume its still the same. Its also why I no longer use points. Spend $5 and get a new condensor....just replace it...don't fiddle with it. Same goes for rotor and cap.. Check the points. Check for spark.
Check all of yoru grounds for injectors at the case centerline.
Check the CHT connection and resistance.
Hand advance the timing...even if its extreme. Just get it started.
Check the trigger points plug..and check with a volt meter to make sure they BOTH work....then check grounds again. Check to make sure you are getting 12 volts to the ECU from the relay. If not....wire it direct to run.
If all else fails...get a damn rope and a buddy and tow your car to someone elses yard or driveway. They can't tow it if it aint there. been there man! I feel for ya! Ray |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
JSMskater
Samba Grease Gorilla
Joined: February 01, 2006
Posts: 5362
Location: Murrieta California
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 3:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
adriel I sent you a message on the list- just swap your car with one of the ones on the driveway. or even roll it onto your yard! who cares!? they can't impound it if its on private property and off the public street.
as to getting it started, my guess is its not the FI-- my guess is it's spark and timing. check the cap and make sure the firing order is right. go to vee and pick up a NEW condensor and set of points- stop dicking around with the old ones.
AND BUY A NEW RELAY. ive been saying it forever! just buy a new one.
_________________
71 Squareback-FI -- 73 Bay (subaru powered)
TOOB Member #3
I make D-jet FI connectors |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 4:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Timing is set at T.D.C..
| raygreenwood wrote: |
The point gap could have slipped, they could have carbonized.....never assume its still the same. Its also why I no longer use points. Spend $5 and get a new condensor....just replace it...don't fiddle with it. Same goes for rotor and cap.. Check the points. Check for spark.
Check all of yoru grounds for injectors at the case centerline.
Check the CHT connection and resistance.
Hand advance the timing...even if its extreme. Just get it started.
Check the trigger points plug..and check with a volt meter to make sure they BOTH work....then check grounds again. Check to make sure you are getting 12 volts to the ECU from the relay. If not....wire it direct to run.
If all else fails...get a damn rope and a buddy and tow your car to someone elses yard or driveway. They can't tow it if it aint there. been there man! I feel for ya! Ray |
Good quality German condensers, caps, and rotors do not fail, according to Mr. Adney and Russ. Besides, they are brand new, and have had no time to fail. I did a full tune up before I parked the auto.
Checked point gap, and was a bit off; now at .16 inches. No driving to build up carbon, but checked, and they are fine.
I have checked all the connectors, that goes without saying.
What do you mean by 12 volts from the relay? Which wire? I have bypassed the relays, so not sure what you mean.
How do I check for spark and voltage at trigger points while in the driver's seat?
Ray, glad someone understands me. I need to get it running, or I might as well set it on fire. I have done nothing to cause the no start, just on its own it decides it will no longer run.
Will move it to the other side, but this evening when the body has cooled down. I have pushed it myself, and pushing it while hot makes it unbearable.
| JSMskater wrote: |
adriel I sent you a message on the list- just swap your car with one of the ones on the driveway. or even roll it onto your yard! who cares!? they can't impound it if its on private property and off the public street.
as to getting it started, my guess is its not the FI-- my guess is it's spark and timing. check the cap and make sure the firing order is right. go to vee and pick up a NEW condensor and set of points- stop dicking around with the old ones.
AND BUY A NEW RELAY. ive been saying it forever! just buy a new one. |
Joe, you seem to forget there is a fence, and the cars in the drive are immobile. There is no place for the Squareback, except across the street.
Freak man, you do not listen!  First, I checked the new relay, and it will not fit. It is the only one available. I cannot get a new one, can I, if it does not exist? Second, since the relay is intermittent, it is supposed to be still good. Third, changing relays had no affect.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Russ Wolfe
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 25187
Location: Central Iowa
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 5:01 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Check the firing order on the spark plug wires. If I remember, you had the tin off to retorque the heads, so you had the plug wires off.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
JSMskater
Samba Grease Gorilla
Joined: February 01, 2006
Posts: 5362
Location: Murrieta California
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Timing is set at T.D.C..
| raygreenwood wrote: |
The point gap could have slipped, they could have carbonized.....never assume its still the same. Its also why I no longer use points. Spend $5 and get a new condensor....just replace it...don't fiddle with it. Same goes for rotor and cap.. Check the points. Check for spark.
Check all of yoru grounds for injectors at the case centerline.
Check the CHT connection and resistance.
Hand advance the timing...even if its extreme. Just get it started.
Check the trigger points plug..and check with a volt meter to make sure they BOTH work....then check grounds again. Check to make sure you are getting 12 volts to the ECU from the relay. If not....wire it direct to run.
If all else fails...get a damn rope and a buddy and tow your car to someone elses yard or driveway. They can't tow it if it aint there. been there man! I feel for ya! Ray |
Good quality German condensers, caps, and rotors do not fail, according to Mr. Adney and Russ. Besides, they are brand new, and have had no time to fail. I did a full tune up before I parked the auto.
Checked point gap, and was a bit off; now at .16 inches. No driving to build up carbon, but checked, and they are fine.
I have checked all the connectors, that goes without saying.
What do you mean by 12 volts from the relay? Which wire? I have bypassed the relays, so not sure what you mean.
How do I check for spark and voltage at trigger points while in the driver's seat?
Ray, glad someone understands me. I need to get it running, or I might as well set it on fire. I have done nothing to cause the no start, just on its own it decides it will no longer run.
Will move it to the other side, but this evening when the body has cooled down. I have pushed it myself, and pushing it while hot makes it unbearable.
| JSMskater wrote: |
adriel I sent you a message on the list- just swap your car with one of the ones on the driveway. or even roll it onto your yard! who cares!? they can't impound it if its on private property and off the public street.
as to getting it started, my guess is its not the FI-- my guess is it's spark and timing. check the cap and make sure the firing order is right. go to vee and pick up a NEW condensor and set of points- stop dicking around with the old ones.
AND BUY A NEW RELAY. ive been saying it forever! just buy a new one. |
Joe, you seem to forget there is a fence, and the cars in the drive are immobile. There is no place for the Squareback, except across the street.
Freak man, you do not listen! First, I checked the new relay, and it will not fit. It is the only one available. I cannot get a new one, can I, if it does not exist? Second, since the relay is intermittent, it is supposed to be still good. Third, changing relays had no affect. |
being german doesn't mean they don't fail. EVERYTHING fails, and no product is free of defects. it is ALWAYS possible that you have a failed or broken part, IRRESPECTIVE of where it came from. Saying that 40 year old parts never fail because they're german is living in fantasy land.
secondly, you cant just bypass the relays... the ECU needs 12v coming from the relay under the seat, which is wired up the relay under the dash, so if you've bypassed or disconnected either this car is gonna go nowhere fast.
An intermittent relay doesn't mean it works! It means it only works sometimes! 
as for the new one- don't tell me they "don't exist" I've bought like 6 of them and they are readily available. they are small black plastic housed units and they screw right on to the factory positions. how does something that mounts with a single screw and retains all the OG connections not fit!? and if you didn't end up getting it, or finding it, then HOW ON EARTH DO YOU KNOW!? Finally, im not surprised if you changed relays between the three or however many old ones you have. they could all be bad! old parts go bad! if you had the instructions on how to test each one post by post, which you CAN do as Ktphil once posted the instructions on how to test that circuit with a vom, then I'd say verify which ones are good. But you have the city breathing down your neck and I'd say now is the time to STOP trying to save a buck and JUST DO IT. you can figure out later if the relays you have are good, and if they're not then TOSS THEM. theres no sense hanging onto 40 year old trash. it's not that I don't listen A- it's that I can't believe you have so much trouble finding things all the time- parts are not this scarce.
I recall a fence but I don't recall one on the left side, I was thinking you could push one from the drivway onto the grass and then the square onto the driveway. nothing is immobile with wheels
_________________
71 Squareback-FI -- 73 Bay (subaru powered)
TOOB Member #3
I make D-jet FI connectors |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
blankmange
Type 3 Darksider
Joined: July 17, 2004
Posts: 11498
Location: Bloßer Stahl-preapocalyptic MidCoast
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
once it's impounded, when does it go up for auction?
_________________
póg mo thóin
Certified DHS Technician
Samba Member # 24517 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 8:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| JSMskater wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Timing is set at T.D.C..
| raygreenwood wrote: |
The point gap could have slipped, they could have carbonized.....never assume its still the same. Its also why I no longer use points. Spend $5 and get a new condensor....just replace it...don't fiddle with it. Same goes for rotor and cap.. Check the points. Check for spark.
Check all of yoru grounds for injectors at the case centerline.
Check the CHT connection and resistance.
Hand advance the timing...even if its extreme. Just get it started.
Check the trigger points plug..and check with a volt meter to make sure they BOTH work....then check grounds again. Check to make sure you are getting 12 volts to the ECU from the relay. If not....wire it direct to run.
If all else fails...get a damn rope and a buddy and tow your car to someone elses yard or driveway. They can't tow it if it aint there. been there man! I feel for ya! Ray |
Good quality German condensers, caps, and rotors do not fail, according to Mr. Adney and Russ. Besides, they are brand new, and have had no time to fail. I did a full tune up before I parked the auto.
Checked point gap, and was a bit off; now at .16 inches. No driving to build up carbon, but checked, and they are fine.
I have checked all the connectors, that goes without saying.
What do you mean by 12 volts from the relay? Which wire? I have bypassed the relays, so not sure what you mean.
How do I check for spark and voltage at trigger points while in the driver's seat?
Ray, glad someone understands me. I need to get it running, or I might as well set it on fire. I have done nothing to cause the no start, just on its own it decides it will no longer run.
Will move it to the other side, but this evening when the body has cooled down. I have pushed it myself, and pushing it while hot makes it unbearable.
| JSMskater wrote: |
adriel I sent you a message on the list- just swap your car with one of the ones on the driveway. or even roll it onto your yard! who cares!? they can't impound it if its on private property and off the public street.
as to getting it started, my guess is its not the FI-- my guess is it's spark and timing. check the cap and make sure the firing order is right. go to vee and pick up a NEW condensor and set of points- stop dicking around with the old ones.
AND BUY A NEW RELAY. ive been saying it forever! just buy a new one. |
Joe, you seem to forget there is a fence, and the cars in the drive are immobile. There is no place for the Squareback, except across the street.
Freak man, you do not listen! First, I checked the new relay, and it will not fit. It is the only one available. I cannot get a new one, can I, if it does not exist? Second, since the relay is intermittent, it is supposed to be still good. Third, changing relays had no affect. |
being german doesn't mean they don't fail. EVERYTHING fails, and no product is free of defects. it is ALWAYS possible that you have a failed or broken part, IRRESPECTIVE of where it came from. Saying that 40 year old parts never fail because they're german is living in fantasy land.
secondly, you cant just bypass the relays... the ECU needs 12v coming from the relay under the seat, which is wired up the relay under the dash, so if you've bypassed or disconnected either this car is gonna go nowhere fast.
An intermittent relay doesn't mean it works! It means it only works sometimes!
as for the new one- don't tell me they "don't exist" I've bought like 6 of them and they are readily available. they are small black plastic housed units and they screw right on to the factory positions. how does something that mounts with a single screw and retains all the OG connections not fit!? and if you didn't end up getting it, or finding it, then HOW ON EARTH DO YOU KNOW!? Finally, im not surprised if you changed relays between the three or however many old ones you have. they could all be bad! old parts go bad! if you had the instructions on how to test each one post by post, which you CAN do as Ktphil once posted the instructions on how to test that circuit with a vom, then I'd say verify which ones are good. But you have the city breathing down your neck and I'd say now is the time to STOP trying to save a buck and JUST DO IT. you can figure out later if the relays you have are good, and if they're not then TOSS THEM. theres no sense hanging onto 40 year old trash. it's not that I don't listen A- it's that I can't believe you have so much trouble finding things all the time- parts are not this scarce.
I recall a fence but I don't recall one on the left side, I was thinking you could push one from the drivway onto the grass and then the square onto the driveway. nothing is immobile with wheels |
Tried pushing, but a bit too heavy with everything in it.
Hooked the two wires back, and the relays are working just fine! So, decided to try and start it. The same.
Checked around, and found 10, almost 11 volts on the connectors of the left side of the engine compartment. Also the same voltage at the power to the coil. Apparently ten minutes of cranking drained the battery. Got the jumper box, and hooked that up. Then, cranked for five minutes solid, with my foot down, and the thumping got louder, so stopped.
I swapped spark plug wires again, and nothing.
Oh, and the condenser is new. Where can I get another this late at night?
Joe, seems like you want to fight, but to tired and busy now, will do in the morning.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Towel Rail
Horizontally Opposed
Joined: April 15, 2005
Posts: 4622
Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
A couple thoughts from left field...
The thumping-while-refusing-to-start sounds like what my '67 Beetle does when I try to turn it over with an old-style timing gun attached -- disconnect the gun, and it'll fire right up. So I wonder if something in the ignition system (like the coil) is weak, or there is a short that you haven't found yet.
Do you have any friends in the area who could help you? All they have to do is sit in the driver's seat and try to start the car while you check the spark. Buy them some beer if need be.
- Scott
_________________
1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009
Last edited by Towel Rail on Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:21 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:21 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If you mean 7:00 AM for towing I wouldn't go to bed before it's moved! You won't talk a tow truck driver out of making money!
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Since I have finished my dinner, I thought to give an update.
| blankmange wrote: |
| once it's impounded, when does it go up for auction? |
Dave, I am sorry to disappoint you, but it will not be impounded. 
Joe sparked an idea. At my house, there is a sidewalk easement, but no sidewalk. Next to the easement on the west side of the drive, there is a short fence. On the east a brick planter. The planter kept me from parking there, the Mercury is parked in such a manner that I could not move to Squareback behind it and on the driveway apron, as suggested by Joe. Once I got the Squareback part way on the apron behind the Bug, I realized there might just be enough space between the bug's bumper and the fence to squeeze it in there. I had to rock it back and forth a couple times to get it in there, plus finesse, as it had about an inch on each side. Realized it just was not going to fit, but had an idea. Waited until there was no traffic, bumped the bush, then gave the Squareback a good push and ran pushing it/steering it. Well, turned a nice arc, and looked like it was going to park nice... Except it got away, jumped the curb, just missed the light pole, and went into my neighbor's yard, which is just dirt thankfully, plus he just put in hills which stopped the car. A bit stunned, I had to figure a way to get it back over the sidewalk, and down the curb. Again, rocked it, and got it over the hump and onto the sidewalk. Another push, and got it off the sidewalk. Finessed it fairly parallel to the curb, moved the Ford, then rolled it down the decline a bit, getting it parallel. Tomorrow the sweeper will come, and I have overcome him!
| Towel Rail wrote: |
A couple thoughts from left field...
The thumping-while-refusing-to-start sounds like what my '67 Beetle does when I try to turn it over with an old-style timing gun attached -- disconnect the gun, and it'll fire right up. So I wonder if something in the ignition system (like the coil) is weak, or there is a short that you haven't found yet.
Do you have any friends in the area who could help you? All they have to do is sit in the driver's seat and try to start the car while you check the spark. Buy them some beer if need be.
- Scott |
Thank you Scott in left field!
I had someone else say to check the coil. I had a friend offer help, so I will/can check the sparks. Trouble is, I have stuff to do early this week, so not sure when I can get back to it.
Power to the coil is on the right, correct?
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Towel Rail
Horizontally Opposed
Joined: April 15, 2005
Posts: 4622
Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
|
| Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
| Power to the coil is on the right, correct? |
It looks like we'll both learn something from this thread -- I had thought I was hooking up my timing gun to the correct lug on the coil, but I wasn't!  The coil gets its power on terminal #15, and you'll have to look close at the coil (a flashlight helps) to see which side it's on.
- Scott
_________________
1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
|
| Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:45 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Timing is set at T.D.C..
| raygreenwood wrote: |
The point gap could have slipped, they could have carbonized.....never assume its still the same. Its also why I no longer use points. Spend $5 and get a new condensor....just replace it...don't fiddle with it. Same goes for rotor and cap.. Check the points. Check for spark.
Check all of yoru grounds for injectors at the case centerline.
Check the CHT connection and resistance.
Hand advance the timing...even if its extreme. Just get it started.
Check the trigger points plug..and check with a volt meter to make sure they BOTH work....then check grounds again. Check to make sure you are getting 12 volts to the ECU from the relay. If not....wire it direct to run.
If all else fails...get a damn rope and a buddy and tow your car to someone elses yard or driveway. They can't tow it if it aint there. been there man! I feel for ya! Ray |
Good quality German condensers, caps, and rotors do not fail, according to Mr. Adney and Russ. Besides, they are brand new, and have had no time to fail. I did a full tune up before I parked the auto.
Checked point gap, and was a bit off; now at .16 inches. No driving to build up carbon, but checked, and they are fine.
I have checked all the connectors, that goes without saying.
What do you mean by 12 volts from the relay? Which wire? I have bypassed the relays, so not sure what you mean.
How do I check for spark and voltage at trigger points while in the driver's seat?
Ray, glad someone understands me. I need to get it running, or I might as well set it on fire. I have done nothing to cause the no start, just on its own it decides it will no longer run.
Will move it to the other side, but this evening when the body has cooled down. I have pushed it myself, and pushing it while hot makes it unbearable.
| JSMskater wrote: |
adriel I sent you a message on the list- just swap your car with one of the ones on the driveway. or even roll it onto your yard! who cares!? they can't impound it if its on private property and off the public street.
as to getting it started, my guess is its not the FI-- my guess is it's spark and timing. check the cap and make sure the firing order is right. go to vee and pick up a NEW condensor and set of points- stop dicking around with the old ones.
AND BUY A NEW RELAY. ive been saying it forever! just buy a new one. |
Joe, you seem to forget there is a fence, and the cars in the drive are immobile. There is no place for the Squareback, except across the street.
Freak man, you do not listen! First, I checked the new relay, and it will not fit. It is the only one available. I cannot get a new one, can I, if it does not exist? Second, since the relay is intermittent, it is supposed to be still good. Third, changing relays had no affect. |
We are NOT talking about your BREAKER POINTS THAT DELIVER SPARK.......we are talking about FUEL INJECTION TRIGGER POINTS.....they are in the bottom of the dizzy....there is no voltage or spark to check for with these.
You need to pull the three prong plug out of the dizzy.....get a voltmeter....set on continuity...you know...circuit connection...light blick, needle swing or beep when you make a circuit....put the black probe on the center pin...and the red one on either of the other two pins. Have someone turn the engine over.....
If the trigger point pair is working you will get a "blink, beep..etc.....every revolution. Now test the other side.
If either of these trigger points is not triggering...or triggering intermittantly....you will NOT get any injection at all.
You also should check resistance and resistance balance on these......but as long as they make connection you should run.
Ray |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
