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VisPacem
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 12:58 pm    Post subject: A/C pressure monitoring Reply with quote

Howdy

I am and have been concerned with air conditioner issues and judging by the abundance of posts I have company.

Now I know nothing or next to nothing about A/Cs. All I know is I want it cold.
However reading the numerous expert responses to the inquiries, for which I thank the posters who are and have been so helpful in getting my A/C cold, I have noticed that a crucial point is the pressures on the low and high sides.
Pressure.
When as a good boy I did the Soviet of the People mandated 134a conversion on my wife's car, from the R12, being ignorant and obedient to Big Comrade who loves us so much, I did not use the Red Tek type gases.

Well, the system which was running nice and cold on R12 started leaking like a sieve and to make things even better eventually ruin my brand new compressor. Only too late a overload/release (?) valve was added which only had the effect to make me recharge my system every three days Surprised
De Profundis A/C vulgaris germanicus

Even with the Red Tek type gases the system never revived.

Spasibo Tovarich

To make a long story shorter, as the pressures seems the important point in a functioning system, is it possible or do the tools even exist to install a pressure gauge, to monitor I would say at least the high pressure side, in the dash so that in case of a visible alarming climb of pressure one could turn the A/C off and save his/her system.

Should I not be dreaming after my conversation with Jack Daniel and taking into account that I know nothing about A/C system, is it possible or realistic or ?

Please have mercy on a poor soul and save for yourself the comments such as how will you monitor it. is your vision that good, why would you want another hole /gauge in your dash or why do you want a cold A/C , why do you like sushi ? Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes

Thanks in advance
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most all current automotive AC units( since the late 50's anyway) have a low pressure cut off switch.

If you ( think ) have fried your compressor, the low pressure switch has been removed, bypassed, or isn't working.

I have never seen , nor heard of an inline AC pressure monitering device.
If when you evacuate the system it holds the vacuum, your good to go.

And that's all there is.

What the problem is here with a basicly simple refridgeration system, is a lack of understanding what does what and when it gets done.

I've suggested many times getting ahold of the easiest place to learn basic automotive AC principles, the Mitchell's training & service manual.

This is where I learned a long time ago when I went to GM AC school.
At the door the instructor handed out the Mitchell Manual, so the students had a reference book to follow, and reference to.

What most of the folks here have is a word of mouth situation with no basic understanding of what's going on.

And this is the biggest problem.

You can't follow the game without a program.
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FNGRUVN
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey VisPacem,

Along the same lines as TK said, your van('89) has a combination high/low pressure switch behind the D pillar cover. It will/should turn the compressor off if you lose pressure(blown hose) or if the pressure is too high(restriction). There really isn't a need to monitor the system.

Sorry, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear.
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VisPacem
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FNGRUVN wrote:
Hey VisPacem,

Along the same lines as TK said, your van('89) has a combination high/low pressure switch behind the D pillar cover. It will/should turn the compressor off if you lose pressure(blown hose) or if the pressure is too high(restriction). There really isn't a need to monitor the system.

Sorry, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear.


Hi, No, it's ok, I do appreciate your response, though I shall add that obviously something went wrong on the wife's car not my van and there was obviously too much pressure that got away and triggered that newly installed on the compressor "discharge/overload" valve.
So my point is that you and TK ARE RIGHT, but things do happen which are NOT supposed to happen no?
We are not supposed to lose oil pressure, we are not supposed to overheat, we are not supposed to lose charge or a wheel though judging by the volume of posts asking for advice on repairs or diagnostic it does happen.
Because then what would be the use of an oil pressure gauge, a voltmeter , an ammeter, a H2O temp gauge and so on..

I remember when the halogen lights were illegal in this country and the radial tyres a rarity, does not mean they cannot be useful.

Just my opinion though, so as it has not been done before, we don't need it?

I might adapt and engineer my own and see for peace of mind.

Now please do not misinterpret this response, I do truly appreciate all the answers I received and am grateful for constructive and courteous opinions, I really am

thanks Very Happy
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting.

Most vehicles have idiot lights--no gauges to confuse folks.
And when the lights start blinking it's all over anyway.
Most folks don't watch the dash--

Just let me ask you this one---for grins.

Your not thinking of installing a AC auxillary high side pressure gauge in the dash in a Vanagon?

Your going to add another 15' of high presure line to the dash so you can moniter the AC system?

Two things will tell you when the gas is gone without a gauge.
(A) If the sytem has freon, you'll hear the compressor clutch kick on.
If it has no gas--it won't kick on.
If the vents are blowing hot air in more than a minute being on--your outa gas.

Simple, easy, not complicated, and fast.

You don't need more hose than you already have, and I sure wouldn't want to be adding any more then the 30 feet you already have.

Just another place to leak.

If it was a good idea--somebody would have done it a long, long time ago--
JC Whitney would have offered it back in the 50's, to get you another 10% + enonomy, along with the curb feeler's and the Hula Girl's.
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Last edited by Terry Kay on Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:15 am; edited 1 time in total
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VisPacem
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry Kay wrote:
Interesting.

Most vehicles have idiot lights--no gauges to confuse folks.
And when the lights start blinking it's all over anyway.
Most folks don't watch the dash--

Just let me as you this one---for grins.

Your not thiking of installing a AC auxillary high side pressure gauge in the dash in a Vanagon?

Your going to add another 15' of high presure line to the dash so you can moniter the AC system?

Two things will tell you when the gas is gone without a gauge.
(A) If the sytem has freon, you'll hear the compressor clutch kick on.
If it has no gas--it won't kick on.
If the vents are blowing hot air in more than a minute being on--your outa gas.

Simple, easy, not complicated, and fast.

You don't need more hose than you already have, and I sure wouldn't want to be adding any more then the 30 feet you already have.

Just another place to leak.

If it was a good idea--somebody would have done it a long, long time ago--
JC Whitney would have offered it back in the 50's, to get you another + 10% fuel enonomey, along with the curb feeler's and the Hula Girl's.


Hi Terry

I do appreciate your so positive comments and the facts you so graciously expose.

I will only say this:

quote:

"idiot lights" do I need to comment on either word?

"most folks do not watch the dash" another statement that requires no comment . Some folks play with their kids on the back seat while driving and have a crock pot on the passenger seat.

"when the gas is gone" => it's HOT Very Happy even easier and less complicated.

I am in full agreement with your statement regarding additional hose and risks of leaks. I have been debating for awhile now installing a fuel pressure gauge which I already have because of a possible leak of very inflammable fuel inside the vehicle.

Thanks again
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All's I'm trying to say is why complicate a already complicated issue?

There are more's ways to skin that one cat, rather than buying another cat.

The AC is ususally one of three ways.
working, not working or blowing half cold.

Let's say you hooked up this gauge.

What's it really gonna do?

The low pressure switch will kick the compressor off before the compressor self detructs ---

And even if it didn't have any freon in it, it wouldn't blow up or lock up,because the oil that's in the lower end of the compressor will lubricate it.

( If you have any oil in it)

A better safety item would be to rig up an oil pressure gauge for the compressor.

This could keep you on top of the compressor lubrication situation , which is much more critical than how much freon is in the system.
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VisPacem
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry Kay wrote:
All's I'm trying to say is why complicate a already complicated issue?

There are more's ways to skin that one cat, rather than buying another cat.

The AC is ususally one of three ways.
working, not working or blowing half cold.

Let's say you hooked up this gauge.

What's it really gonna do?

The low pressure switch will kick the compressor off before the compressor self detructs ---****

And even if it didn't have any freon in it, it wouldn't blow up or lock up,because the oil that's in the lower end of the compressor will lubricate it.

( If you have any oil in it)

A better safety item would be to rig up an oil pressure gauge for the compressor.

This could keep you on top of the compressor lubrication situation , which is much more critical than how much freon is in the system.


I do appreciate the theory and the opinion. I shall therefore, again submit the facts:

Fact 1: ****the compressor self destroyed itself twice. This IS a fact.

Fact 2: the gas did leak out most likely through that pressure/release valve (?) installed on the second compressor.

Fact 3: each time the belt was shredded off the pulleys

Fact 4: with R12 the A/C worked just fine

Fact 5: the problems arose when converted to 134a

Fact 6: the second compressor (new) was also destroyed in the same way as compressor 1 and it had the required lubricant.

fact 7: it is generally accepted that 134a gas generates higher pressures than R12.


Now, theories, opinions and possibilities:

A: shredded and thrown belt would indicate that at some point the compressor did in fact lock up.

B: lack of gas freon or whatever should not logically lock the compressor.

C: too much pressure ****could**** lock the compressor

D: fact 4 would indicate that there was the necessary oil in the compressor

Now this is not intended to create a futile argument as I do recognize you as THE expert and acknowledge my layman status.

However, expertise is not absolutely required to follow a logical chain of events and evidence and draw an obvious conclusion:

There was too much pressure in the system ? No?

Pressure according to the recognized and admitted Laws of Physics does not climb instantly from zero (0) to 200, 300 , 400 or whatever is required to lock a compressor.
Therefore in my mind was the notion that an indication of the pressure getting too high and climbing might be a fair and useful warning aka an oil temperature gauge, a water temp gauge.

Obviously the "safety" devices and valves did NOT operate properly or the compressor would not have locked and the belt not shredded off.
Am I correct?

Besides the major flaws that you very correctly pointed out in my idea, possible leaks, additional hoses, JC Whitney not touching this with a ten foot pole, everyone giving up on marketing a **square** Hula hoop it does seem that the problem was not lubrication but pressure indeed.
Both compressor were adequately lubricated, both were designed for R12 they locked with 134a. Am I correct?

Now that was on the wife's car not on the Vanagon.

Now I also "fried" the compressor on the Vanagon for reasons other than R12 vs 134.
The new compressor on the Vanagon NEVER saw, smelled, touched or even looked at a can of 134. It did receive immediately a charge of Red Tek like gas.

It never locked, it is cold and happy and so am I.

If it were possible, in a practical way, I would install as many indicators as can be thought, a brake fluid level gauge, a CHT for each bank of cylinders, and EGT and a gauge to gauge the gauges Laughing
because..... I do not use a cell phone while driving, I do not play with the kids while driving, I do not dictate mail while driving I do not even scratch my A... while driving.

I drive, I watch the road and the other cars and glance periodically at my instruments

Anyway thanks for your customary expert recommendations and opinion. I guess I did not take the feasibility into consideration and.....
I shall keep my compressors well lubricated and my ammo dry Very Happy ... just in case
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FNGRUVN
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TK made a lot of sense, but if you wanted to monitor the pressures without adding any more hoses, you could use electric pressure gauges. You would have to get creative with some fittings. You could hook them up right at the compressor.

I wonder if your wife's car had all the old mineral oil removed? Or the high pressure switch is defective. This would allow the clutch to remain engaged while the pressures climbed to the point where the compressor couldn't do any more and would lock up. I suppose another theory could be that liquid is entering the compressor and causing liquid-lock.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So,
It wasn't the lack of freon , it was too much, then it lost it all at some pressure release valve behind the compresor. and then the compressor locked up, or blew up.

Well, here's thought on the multiple explosions & compressor failure's.

Each time you had problem's , you changed the expansion valve & the dryer along with the compressor--right?

If not--it wasn't the 134 that caused the problem, it be a "Flo" problem from the schrapnel left floating in the system.

You flushed the garbage outa system out each time the compressor hand grenaded too--right?

What was starting to sound like a mineral oil etser, pag non- compatibility problem now is starting to sound like a installation proceedure Boo-Boo.

If you missed the expansion valve and the capillary tube got plugged up, here's your high pressure build up, after loading it up with the 134.

Somebody filled it up, and the gauges should have told you this right away--unless of course the freon was installed using just a Wally World low pressure side gauge--which would have you zip about the hight side pressure fluctuations.

If the dryer got loaded up with a bunch of crap--
This will restrict the freon flow and raise operating pressure's.

Again, this would have shown up at the freon load up on the manifold & gauges.

Anything could have happened internally if the system wasn't washed out real good each time the compressor took a crap.

I think that the failure was a installation, & proceedure problem not a gas initiated lock up.

I mean, the gas could have locked it up, but something else caused the failure.

And why did BOTH high & low pressure cut out switches just happen to fail at the same time?

I'd be doing some serious Sherlock Holmes , Pink Panther investigating & repair's here rather than trying to buid better boomarang, & adding gauges & hoses & wires , Oh My.

Something ain't right.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry Kay wrote:
So,

Each time you had problem's , you changed the expansion valve & the dryer along with the compressor--right?

If not--it wasn't the 134 that caused the problem, it be a "Flo" problem from the schrapnel left floating in the system.

You flushed the garbage outa system out each time the compressor hand grenaded too--right?

What was starting to sound like a mineral oil etser, pag non- compatibility problem now is starting to sound like a installation proceedure Boo-Boo.

If you missed the expansion valve and the capillary tube got plugged up, here's your high pressure build up, after loading it up with the 134.

<snip>
If the dryer got loaded up with a bunch of crap--
This will restrict the freon flow and raise operating pressure's.

Again, this would have shown up at the freon load up on the manifold & gauges.

Anything could have happened internally if the system wasn't washed out real good each time the compressor took a crap.

I think that the failure was a installation, & proceedure problem not a gas initiated lock up.

I mean, the gas could have locked it up, but something else caused the failure.

And why did BOTH high & low pressure cut out switches just happen to fail at the same time?


Ya think? Actually there is a high side gauge. Right next to the low side gauge on the technician's gauge set.
Sounds like the expansion valve and dryer were not changed nor was the system flushed of debris. Possibly even the old oil was not changed out with the R134 changeover.
I'd rather expect some very high tech vehicles DO have compressor monitoring gauges. 747's probably do. 777's probably have monitoring that the pilot only sees when there begins to be a trend towards trouble.
Sorta like an idiot light?
Square hula hoops. Do a patent search. Become another Wham-O.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

<<Ya think?>>

Getting close here Albert.

<< Actually there is a high side gauge. Right next to the low side gauge on the technician's gauge set.>>

Yea--on a AC Tech / mechanic's gauge set there is.

However, most folks won't take the AC tool plunge and bother to purchase the right stuff.
They'll stop at the end cap at Wally world where the 134 is located, and grab one of them _"instant gratification" jippo low prsssure only gauges, and they are good to go.

Happens all the time.

<<Sounds like the expansion valve and dryer were not changed nor was the system flushed of debris. Possibly even the old oil was not changed out with the R134 changeover.>>
10-4

<<I'd rather expect some very high tech vehicles DO have compressor monitoring gauges. 747's probably do. 777's probably have monitoring that the pilot only sees when there begins to be a trend towards trouble.>>

Problem is here in the real world we ain;t high tech in a Vanagon,Type 2, or whatever else we're driving.

Maybe a DC-3 Gooney Bird, Bamboo Bomber, or a Stearman PT-17 would be closer comparison.

Run by the seat of your pants.


<<Sorta like an idiot light?>>

The idiot is on the other side of that light.
Ya gotta just look at it once in awhile.

<<Square hula hoops. Do a patent search. Become another Wham-O.>>

Sounds more like Bab-O was in the lines,fittings, & compressor.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would be a lot of work to completely flush/clean an AC system on a Vanagon after a compressor came apart. Do a search on AC Black Death. Second, while I did get slammed for not taking the time to learn about Red Tek, There is a relationship between Evaporator Temperature and low side pressure. While it is important to monitor the high pressure, I always am more interested in the low pressure when troubleshooting a poor cooling problem.

I did take the time to go to Red Tek's website after my lashing here and read some of the information. It sounds almost too good to be true. They also have some other interesting products. I did not see if Red Tek is D.O.T. approved. I also did not read anything about flamability. When the time comes to add AC to my Vanagon, I will investigate the Red Tek some more. Looks like I need to refabricate my R/S engine mount and carrier bar to make room for the compressor and lines. Regards
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Red Tek is flammable.

Quote:
Should I not be dreaming after my conversation with Jack Daniel and taking into account that I know nothing about A/C system, is it possible or realistic or ?


Certainly possible and realistic. IMO, if you used electric gauges, then the added risk of leakage would be insignificant. If you want to monitor the A/C pressures on the fly, then go for it. You're not going to be hurting anything and might save yourself some trouble in the long run.

Quote:
Please have mercy on a poor soul and save for yourself the comments such as how will you monitor it. is your vision that good, why would you want another hole /gauge in your dash or why do you want a cold A/C , why do you like sushi ? Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes


I guess your plea for mercy was completely ignored. Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Red Tek is flammable.



I guess your plea for mercy was completely ignored. Laughing

I suppose it is propane, then? I've heard that propane has about the right characteristics for a domestic refrigerant. Except that it is flammable. Only a problem if it leaks.
Al
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