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Wind direction affect oil temperature?
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vincent9993 wrote:
Maybe but before I spend time and money modifying the airflow I need to be convinced that recycled air is being fed in the FIT. As I stand, I cannot say that it is...


Short of using a wind tunnel, tufts of yarn and a camera... putting the tin on and seeing a drop in FIT would be the stongest and probably only "proof" you could find. Those pieces cost about $5 and are held on by 2 or 3 screws, not a huge investment.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=822026

If the point of this exercise is to try and get your engine to run cooler, the absolute accuracy of your readings really isn't as important as relative differences.

If you're doing it as a science project with the intent of publishing something, you'll need a lot better equipment.
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:

If the point of this exercise is to try and get your engine to run cooler, the absolute accuracy of your readings really isn't as important as relative differences.

If you're doing it as a science project with the intent of publishing something, you'll need a lot better equipment.


Let's be clear, I'm not publishing anything... I do have a day job - lol

I'm only trying to figure out why some of us (and not everyone) with dune buggies (mostly Manx or Manx clones/types) are experiencing an oil buildup on sustain highway speeds while others are not reporting this issue. If I can help the community (without officially presenting study) and pinpoint the source of the problem, I'll be happy to have done my contribution to a group that has helped me a great deal in the past.

I'm concerned about changing something and having a placebo effect and not have pinpointed the source of this problem. If we find that the FIT is affected by recycled air, I will start to experiment with different avenues to redirect airflow away and to the fan intake but I first want to get some data.

I will keep your idea as a possible cure once I have some data.

Please note that a $5 item quickly increases in cost for us Canadians (extra shipping, duty, taxes, exchange rate, etc...) It's not like walking in a local vw store for us... I wish)
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vincent9993 wrote:
I'm concerned about changing something and having a placebo effect and not have pinpointed the source of this problem. If we find that the FIT is affected by recycled air, I will start to experiment with different avenues to redirect airflow away and to the fan intake but I first want to get some data.

I will keep your idea as a possible cure once I have some data.

Please note that a $5 item quickly increases in cost for us Canadians (extra shipping, duty, taxes, exchange rate, etc...) It's not like walking in a local vw store for us... I wish)


Reducing a temperature can be empirically measured, so it definitely wouldn't be a placebo effect. It might be spurious, but not a placebo.

If you're not going to make any changes to your engine and record and compare the results, or use tufts of yarn and a high speed camera, I don't see how you intend to determine whether the FIT is affected by recycled air?

What's a local VW store? I shop at the WWW VW store. Here's all 3 pieces for $15 in PA.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=822087
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CrashedAgain
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:


Short of using a wind tunnel, tufts of yarn and a camera... putting the tin on and seeing a drop in FIT would be the stongest and probably only "proof" you could find. Those pieces cost about $5 and are held on by 2 or 3 screws, not a huge investment.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=822026



Actually, I think you need more than just those 2 or 3 pieces....they fit in conjunction with the heat exchanger boxes to form an under-engine rear facing duct.

Looking at the pic of the engine underside, I think the bumper attachment brackets might interfere with stock tin so this might be a fab special in any case.

I was going to make something similar for mine but haven't done it yet. My reason was that I wanted to try to retain the original thermostat for quicker warmup...my stock 1600 really doesn't like to run cold. I also have an added complication....the little bosses on the engine casing for the attachement screws are broken.

Maybe if Vincent can confirm that there is an increase in fan inlet temp in a crosswind he can cobble (good word that!) something up with thin aluminum (like from dryer ducting pipes) and some wire for a test.
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a video camera and small 2-3" pieces of party streamers taped all inside the engine bay to see the flow of air inside the bay.

You'll be suprised.
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LeeVW
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree that the next logical step is to verify the actual oil temperature.

I have ALL the stock tinware (German original) except the front and rear breast plates (don't need them in a buggy). I fabricated my own pieces to fill in where the heat exchangers go. I did this to direct airflow as well as keep flying rocks from damaging the pushrod tubes. I highly recommend this to everyone.

My CHT gauge tells me when I am pushing the engine too hard. When it starts to creep up out of its normal range I take my foot out of it. It takes a lot to get my stock 1600 to get too hot in most cases, but climbing a steep grade into a headwind with the roof rack fully loaded when it's 100+ degrees out is one way to do it. A lot of times I just have to sit there in the slow lane doing 45 MPH in third gear and wait until my CHT and Oil Pressure gauges tell me it's ok to go faster. This is one of the realities of driving an antique air cooled vehicle long distances.

Jake is THE MAN when it comes to things like this. I am very tempted to go with his DTM shroud in the future. I have a feeling I would be able to spend a lot more time in fourth gear with that setup. Smile

Lee
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ellobo
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:12 pm    Post subject: Bunch of Wndgineers.. Reply with quote

Have any of you ever been to Lake Havasu in the middle of Summer? If you had...You'd notice that your A.C. unit is blowing 90 degrees when it's 115 outside. It's normal to think that things aren't normal. So, why you put a stoopid gauge on your dash when it's totally not nessary?

I'm not trying to create arguement. I'm just saying that all of this is relevent to conditions and circumstance.
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So, why you put a stoopid gauge on your dash when it's totally not nessary?

No instrument is stupid... If you had ever had your life saved in an aircraft because of a "stupid gauge" you'd understand that. (I have)

Quote:
I'm just saying that all of this is relevent to conditions and circumstance.

Both of which can be illustrated with instrumentation.

It's about communication between the engine and the driver. CHT instrumentation saves the lives of engines. PERIOD.

There is nothing stupid about that.

Quote:
I'm not trying to create arguement.

Then don't make abrasive, totally off base comments that suggest the monitoring of the engine by any means other than telepathy is "stupid".
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ellobo
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jake... I'm not trying to stir the Pot. It's not an aircraft. If it were. the gauges and their positions would be certified. Right?

Abrasive, No... Certain conditions (stoopid gauges) can create mis-conceptions when improperly mounted that can be mis-interpreteded by the driver and the actual situtaion...(No offense to you Vincent)

I'm enjoying the information that this thread has lended in an
informative way to remedy an over heating issue.

So, Let it go Forward....
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its not the fault of the instrument if the driver misinterprets the information that it is providing... Bad information is better than none at all.

I live by instrumentation and feedback from the engine...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even if Vincent's oil temp gauge is inaccurate it still shows a trend. If the oil temp typically never exceeds 240 deg but now it's at 260 deg you know you have an issue.
I'm all for gauges.
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trend data is exactly what instruments are for... Even if the gauge value is not accurate, but suddenly changes you know there is a problem.
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake Raby wrote:
Cool... No worries..
BUT you need to be monitiring head temperature, its by far the most critical vital statistic of the engine...


Jake, care to help me on that one. I would not mind installing a head temp gauge and sensor but what would you recommend? I'll need to drill and tap my engine but I would be ok with that.

The biggest obstacle for me is that I live in Canada and I need to source the parts online with a USPS friendly shipper.

Thanks for your help.
Vincent
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a Westach CHT gauge... The ONLY place to install the sender is under one of the spark plugs, preferably #3

The temperature of the head has a huge differential as you travel further from the core of the chamber into the fin area... All my data has been captured under the plug, for very good reason.
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vincent9993
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake Raby wrote:
Buy a Westach CHT gauge... The ONLY place to install the sender is under one of the spark plugs, preferably #3

The temperature of the head has a huge differential as you travel further from the core of the chamber into the fin area... All my data has been captured under the plug, for very good reason.


That's cool, I like the idea of the simple installation (under sparkplug)!

I googled "Westach CHT gauge" and it came up with a multitude of setups mostly for aircraft.

Anyone know of a good online source and "kit" I should get? Thanks.
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CrashedAgain
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="vincent9993"]
Jake Raby wrote:


The biggest obstacle for me is that I live in Canada and I need to source the parts online with a USPS friendly shipper.

Vincent


Have you checked for a local vw restore shop or VW owners club?
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wythac
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had some info from my drive this evening that I thought might be a good addition to Vincent's thread;

My buggy has access to the battery thru the floor of the package tray. I haven't finished the cover for the access hole, and had just been leaving it off when I drove. I threw the cover over the hole tonight to see if it reduced engine noise while I drove....when I got up to about 50(80kph for you, Vincent) it kited off the hole aned landed behind the front passenger seat. That drew my attention to the hole, so the next time I got up to that speed(and then up to about 70 for a half hour) I put my hand over the hole, and, no surprise, a lot of air was rushing upwards thru the hole, indicating a surplus of air pressure in that area.

I guess I share this in an effort to answer the question about whether or not there is a negative pressure zone in the area in front of the engine cooling fan and behind the package tray that is stealing wind from the fan and causing the engine to work harder. My experience seems to indicate that there is "+" pressure there.

For what its worth, temps in my part of the world today were about 52F...oil temp at 70mph was about 160-170F. I have a 1776 with dual Weber 42 DCNF carbs, mild cam grind, 7:1 compression, Pertronix distributor. I am using a stock doghouse oil cooler as part of a full flow system with an externally mounted filter bracket using a WIX 51515(PH8A size) filter. This gives me about 4 quarts of oil capacity.
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CrashedAgain
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wythac wrote:
...... I put my hand over the hole, and, no surprise, a lot of air was rushing upwards thru the hole, indicating a surplus of air pressure in that area.



Not necessarily. The airflow in the cockpit does swirl in the back seat area which will create a very large negative pressure there (bernouli's principle about fast moving air being at a lower pressure that still air). Your experiment does show that the air pressure of the turbulent air over the back seat is lower than the pressure of the relatively still air on the engine side of the panel. Both could still be lower than ambient, however.
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wythac
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hadn't put that much thought into it, but what you say makes sense...it could be evidence only of a differential pressure when overall pressure on BOTH sides of the package tray could be below normal atmopheric pressure.

Warmer today, in the mid-60's. Took a drive at 70 MPH for just less than 1 hour. Windy enough to blow the car around a bit, but oil temps pretty consistent right at about 170F. Put about 10 lbs on top of the lid over my battery case and it was still blown off by the pressure from underneath. I was just going to tack it down with velcro, but I'm clearly going to have revisit that idea.
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CrashedAgain
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

....and I was going to try to vent my battery case to the engine compartment area on the theory that the acidic fumes in the battery area might damage the seat cushion which currently serves as the 'top' for the battery box.

Clearly that isn't going to work!
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