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AFM signal testing with video
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Creativemind
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:32 pm    Post subject: Whats the proper way to clean the AFM? Reply with quote

Tencentlife,

What's the proper way to clean and lubricate the AFM?

Is dielectric grease not a good idea to use?

What should be used to clean it and then lubricate it?

Should the case be siliconed when all work is finished?

Robert
NY
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psych-illogical
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

D'oh!! An analog meter?!!! I sure wish I had thought of that. All I had when I was going through my AFM issues a couple of years ago was a digital and the voltage change was anything BUT linear. And I sure as heck couldn't move the flapper slowly enough or smoothly enough to see what was going on. It turned out that swapping out my AFM did cure all my running problems and I'm still as happy as can be 30,000 miles later.
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tosch1969
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the first time I have written in. I have been dealing with this loss of power off idle when cold problem for three long years. I tested using the analog multimeter and found no fluctuations whatsoever - even did it with a toothbrush like ten cent just to be scientific Confused . I have changed fuel lines, fuel filter, plugs, tps, cleaned the heck out of the tb, plugs, wires, O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, tested for vacuum leaks, etc. Called the PO (for pointers about the car and not to b*tch). You name it I did it.

So I test my AFM (slowly - with the thing out just like it says so I can push on the inside of the thing and not on the wiper arm). Just for kicks I test it by pushing on the wiper arm too. No fluctuations in voltage at all. But I am convinced - it must be this darn AFM. So, I take my needlenose (couldn't budge those screws) and gently bend the wiper arm down (figured it couldn't hurt) and test drove.

It's been a week now and the problem of the last three years is gone! It has a (barely perceptible) flat spot just off idle when cold so the arm may need a slight additional bend (or it could be as good as it gets due to that well worn groove in the track) but its like 99% better. Thank you thank you thank you. I appreciated this post so much. It helped me solve my own personal bout of Vanagon Syndrome Smile
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Neptuno
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one question about this, Is there a way that someone can post a picture of what a worn out section of the tracks look like?

I am interested in reconazing this if I see it. Also on another tread 10cent mentioned ajustment of the board if this was the case. Did I miss how to do this?

Thanks all!

El t
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WesternMassRich
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What an excellent video !! I feel like testing my AFM just to make sure it does not have any dead spots in the wiper pot. That was very very good. Thanks !

rich
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good deal guys.

To post pics, there are instructions up on top of the page, under "Gallery", "Add Photo". That lets you set up a photo gallery of your own here from which you can link pics to your thread posts.

I found that didn't work well for me, so the alternative is to set up your own page at one of the free photo-hosting sites, I use Photobucket, but there's Flickr and others. Then you can upload pics to there, and grab a link and paste it into your posts here.

You insert a pic link like this:

[img]URL[/img]
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coral56red
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:18 pm    Post subject: Vanagon AFM Reply with quote

This is great, particularly the video and explanation by tencentlife. Has anyone compared the quality difference between the Kenneke and GoWesty rebuilt AFMs?
Since these are wear items I figure replacement will at some point be inevitable.
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RCB
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the online parts houses send the AFM out to a place called FIC Corp.

That stands for Fuel Injection Corporation and they are located in Livermore, California. The phone number is (925) 371-6551.

The web-site is www.fuelinjectioncorp.com.
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coral56red
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:15 am    Post subject: Vanagon AFM Reply with quote

Thanks, RCB. I'll check them out.
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fusername
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok I wanted to add to this topic. If i hadn't just swapped in a new engine requireing carbs my AFM desperatly needed to be checked for dead spots. I was talking to my friend, an electrical engineer who did some work specifically on desiging wiper arms who said a few interesting things.

1, yes there is a lube, if you spray an electronics cleaner, get a spray electronics lube to follow with. there are seom products that contain both properties, I have forgotten thier names but look them up
2. DO NOT BEND THE ARM. the arm is set to a VERY exacting pressure from thefactory, which you can not dupilcate. think about just how tiny the contact area is between the arm and board. it has a surface area is .001 inches. ok thats an exaggeration, but the differecne between .5lb of force and 2 is the difference between 500 psi and 2000psi scraping the board clean. move the screws, use heat to free the epoxy, as they are all epoxied in.

I thought there was a third but I have forgotten it. once you are done adjusting all this, you will need to recalibrate your AFM of course, so bring it to you local shop or rent an LM-1 or such analyser and have a field day.
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jackstar
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After having a couple of looks at the video and then my own AFM, I realized I have a 79 7-pin plug whereas the video shows a 4-pin plug. Can someone tell me where to pug in my red/black leads on the 7-pin plug? Thanks in advance.

Jack
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dwill49965
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For late bay owners with a 7 pin afm, I did this test here:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4667033#4667033
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This should be a sticky!

Anyway, I am surprised that no one has yet figured out how to put in a modern tps in there to get the signal in and out.

Just wondering, how many degrees is the arc of the wiper from idle to full throttle? Is it an even 90 degrees?
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The embedded video and the URL in the initial post are no longer working, so here's a fresh link to watch the video:

http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m218/tencentlif...V02923.mp4
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris, you know you are my Vanagon hero! Wink
Thank you for all of your great information, experience and advice!
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A nice bottle of Scotch speaks louder than words.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
A nice bottle of Scotch speaks louder than words.


Ski passes did not hurt either. You drop by and you got it!
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

speaking of the the box being sealed up tight, how do you reassemble the thing?

is a bead of 'regular' silicone seal adequate?
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
speaking of the the box being sealed up tight, how do you reassemble the thing?

is a bead of 'regular' silicone seal adequate?


Speaking of assembling, what is the proper way to remove the plastic cover with damaging it? I cut under the lip to get at the sealer, but it still will not pop off.
HELP! Wink
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cover can be stubborn if never removed before -- the sealant may also be inside the lip, an area where you cannot get at with your Xacto knife. If you can raise it just a tiny bit to get a very thing screwdriver or other wedge under the lid you can begin to work it loose. Once it starts to let go you're pretty much home free but you have to overcome that initial grip & stretch property of the sealant.

I use a lot less sealant on the reseal though you want it sealed enough to keep dust out.
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