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First timer build suggestions NEW PARTS!!! NEED ADVICE!
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 9:56 pm    Post subject: First timer build suggestions NEW PARTS!!! NEED ADVICE! Reply with quote

I just aquired a 1600 DP long block with an Engle 120 came, crappy port job, and swivel foot adjusters. I am wanting to use this long block to try my hand at aircooled engine work. I would like to go through this engine, and build it up a little while I keep the 1600 running in my sedan.

I have a few sets of DP heads, and I have been doing tons of porting research. I would really like to try it myself. I also have a new set of 87.5's I would like to use (I know they suck but I have them and they are new). I realize I am not going to get 100hp, and I realize it might run a warm (I am in South Dakota). I don't even need this thing to last me 50,000 miles. I just want to have a little fun for not much $$. It will never see a race track, but I do drive it like I am 16. I just want to try this engine out before I build a real 1915 the correct way.

Here is a list of parts I have, and I would like to see what you guys would recommend for a cam, compression, and which of the parts I have acquired to use. I know the 120 cam is too much, and I don't mind spending a little on a new cam if it will help.

Clean AH case, stock bore,
stock crank and rods, newer rebuild
new 87.5 P&C
newer Kadron 40's
Bugpack Hide away header and muffler
13lb flywheel
New 1.4 rockers
CM push rods
new stainless stock size valves and guides
high rev single springs, and solid shafts.
Engle 120 cam

I was thinking of maybe a 110 cam, and 8.5 with the stock ported heads. Should I use the rockers, or a different cam?? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Brian


Last edited by Brian_e on Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:34 am; edited 1 time in total
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You must mean you have 87mm P/Cs, not 87.5, this will give you 1641cc. If you want to run the 1.4 rockers use a stock cam. If you want to run a bit more cam I'd use an Engle 100 with stock 1.1:1 rockers. Since you'll be using the stock non-counterweighted crank this will limit your revs to 5k if you want to get any kind of mileage out of the motor. If you had a counterweighted crank to put in there I'd go for the E-110 so you could use the extended rev range it offers. No matter what cam you use any port work you do on the heads will be a benefit along with a good 3 angle valve job. Keep the compression ratio stock (7.5:1) if you go with the stock cam or 8:1 with the 100 or 110 cams. Have your rotating assembly balanced. I'd have the case tapped for full flow and run a 1.5 qt sump too.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say no bigger than a engle 100 also.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you don't want to split the case to remove that cam to me?? If so Confused Port some heads!!!,trade the K-Duds off for some real carbs like 40 IDF's Cool and and get some stock ratio rockers and Hd springs on those heads, a W120 likes higher CR too If it's just a play motor like I'm thinking 9:1-10:1 good fuel or 50/50 mix race gas Cool Cool Should scoot down the road purdy good Laughing Laughing
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

madmike wrote:
Sounds like you don't want to split the case to remove that cam to me?? If so Confused Port some heads!!!,trade the K-Duds off for some real carbs like 40 IDF's Cool and and get some stock ratio rockers and Hd springs on those heads, a W120 likes higher CR too If it's just a play motor like I'm thinking 9:1-10:1 good fuel or 50/50 mix race gas Cool Cool Should scoot down the road purdy good Laughing Laughing


I decided I will split the case to check out the rest of the engine, and swap the cam at that time. I don't really want to get rid of the Kad's. I have had really good luck with them and I like the choke option for the winters up here. I will be doing MS EFI on the correctly built 1915 next. I have the HD springs, and both stock and 1.4 rockers.

Will a stock cam with 1.4's work better then a 110 with stock rockers??

Should I take the time to balance all the pistons and rods, or does it not matter without the CW crank?? Will balancing the stock assembly make a big difference??

I am not opposed to running higher compression, I always use premium in it anyways. Will there be much power difference going from 8:1 to 8:5??

Sorry for all the questions, I am just trying to learn and have some fun.

Thanks again,
Brian
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarthWeber wrote:
You must mean you have 87mm P/Cs, not 87.5, this will give you 1641cc. If you want to run the 1.4 rockers use a stock cam. If you want to run a bit more cam I'd use an Engle 100 with stock 1.1:1 rockers. Since you'll be using the stock non-counterweighted crank this will limit your revs to 5k if you want to get any kind of mileage out of the motor. If you had a counterweighted crank to put in there I'd go for the E-110 so you could use the extended rev range it offers. No matter what cam you use any port work you do on the heads will be a benefit along with a good 3 angle valve job. Keep the compression ratio stock (7.5:1) if you go with the stock cam or 8:1 with the 100 or 110 cams. Have your rotating assembly balanced. I'd have the case tapped for full flow and run a 1.5 qt sump too.


I don't expect it too last forever, as long as it will last me a year or two I will be tickled. I am hoping to start building a real engine before I am able to kill this one

I was going to experiment with the full flow while I had it apart, and I do have a 1.5 sump. I will also have the 3 angle done when I am finished with the port work and guides.

Thanks, Brian
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madmike
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chokes??? we don't need no stinking Chokes Laughing Laughing Brian, i live on the Polar equator Cool , since u have the K-duds keep them but if you get the opportunity to swap for 40idf's you won't be sorry, Gee one throat for each cyl. what a great idea Shocked as for the cam issue yea a W110 will out perform a stocker w/1;4's since it's got a longer duration, do balance it ,the bearing will like it and your ass on loooooong SD drives Laughing keep the W120 for the 1915 or 2332 Cool Madmike
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the heads off today, and found they are 041 heads with 32mm exh valves and 40mm intakes. They don't appear to be cracked. The only thing that concerns me is the ports look huge compared to the other DP heads I have with smaller valves. I am worried the previous builder just hogged the ports out.

Should I stick with the stock heads ported with a 3 angle, or use these 041 heads with questionable porting???

Is it possible to use 1.4's with a 100 or 110 engle cam??
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1:4's are not for W120, W110 or w100 cams, use only 1:25's But they can be used on an FK8 Cool
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With a stock non-counterweight crank you are limited to 4500 RPM. Any more will pound out the bearing journals. With that limitation there is no reason to go larger then a W-100 cam. The W-110 pulls to 5500 RPM and the W-120 pulls to 5800 RPM. Both are above the 4500 limitation of the stock Non-CW crank. The Engle W series cams are ground for stock 1.1 or 1.25 rockers only. It would be much cheaper to get a W-100 cam and stock rockers then to use a stock cam and your 1.4 rockers then have to buy new pushrods cut to the correct lenght.

Throw a W-100 cam in, Keep the compression 7.0-7.5, port whatever set of stock heads you feel is best, tune the Kads and rock on.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

madmike wrote:
1:4's are not for W120, W110 or w100 cams, use only 1:25's But they can be used on an FK8 Cool


Won't the FK8 be too much for this engine?? The cams are all similar priced, so I don't mind buying either one, I just don't want to get one that will run like a turd with no bottom end. I can get a set of cheap bolt-on style 1.25's to throw into it.

Here is what I am thinking to do:

Full flow the case, add my 1.5 sump,
ported stock heads, new SS valves and guide,
Balance the rods, pistons, and all rotating ass.,
HD springs and retainers w/ solid shafts,
CM push rods,
87mm P&C,
W110 cam w/ 1.25 rockers,
13lb flywheel,
9:1 compression,
1 3/8 header,
40 Kad's

Will it work??? Will it scoot?? Or will it explode??
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian_e wrote:
madmike wrote:
1:4's are not for W120, W110 or w100 cams, use only 1:25's But they can be used on an FK8 Cool


Won't the FK8 be too much for this engine?? The cams are all similar priced, so I don't mind buying either one, I just don't want to get one that will run like a turd with no bottom end. I can get a set of cheap bolt-on style 1.25's to throw into it.

Here is what I am thinking to do:

Full flow the case, add my 1.5 sump,
ported stock heads, new SS valves and guide,
Balance the rods, pistons, and all rotating ass.,
HD springs and retainers w/ solid shafts,
CM push rods,
87mm P&C,
W110 cam w/ 1.25 rockers,
13lb flywheel,
9:1 compression,
1 3/8 header,
40 Kad's

Will it work??? Will it scoot?? Or will it explode??


engle fk8 is a 1.4 ratio rocker cam, to big ignore it.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the FK8 will be too much for this motor. Read again what vwracerdave said in his last post, and think of this; if you take longer than expected to build your 1915 cc (or? these things have a habit of growing- a stroker crank is only xx more dollars but now i have to save a little more!) dream efi motor or after it has some miles on it and it needs to come out for some maintenance, having a dependable runner that will run longer without problems as the big motor build took longer than expected or it being under the bench and can be installed at a moment's notice would be very handy. The W100 will provide more than enough go for now and be reliable if the snot isn't driven out of it ALL THE TIME. I would keep the compression around 7.5-7.8.
Just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh). Al
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last question.

What are the down sides to bumping the compression little more?? I was originally thinking 8.0-8.5. I know it will run a little warmer, and require better gas, but what else. Will the smaller cams work with the higher compression?? I thought compression=HP and fun. Would it be a bad thing to run a little higher comp. in trade for a little less life?? Remember this is my learning/play motor.

Thanks everyone for helping out a learning newbie.

Brian
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian_e wrote:
Last question.

What are the down sides to bumping the compression little more?? I was originally thinking 8.0-8.5. I know it will run a little warmer, and require better gas, but what else. Will the smaller cams work with the higher compression?? I thought compression=HP and fun. Would it be a bad thing to run a little higher comp. in trade for a little less life?? Remember this is my learning/play motor.

Thanks everyone for helping out a learning newbie.

Brian


Do not concern yourself with high compression. The stock cam and the smaller cams like E-100 and 110 were made to work with lower compression. Do not concern yourself with higher compression. Your Kadrons were made to work best on low compression, basically stock, motors. Stock cam = stock compression, about 7.5:1. Engle 100 or 110 you can bump to 8:1. There is a thing called Dynamic CR. It's calculated based on when the intake valve closes and cylinder pressure begins to build. In other words, it's the actual CR the motor sees. With smaller cams, when you raise the static CR the dynamic CR increases dramatically beyond what premium pump gas is able to handle. This will make the motor run hotter and wear out faster. Keep the compression in the 7.5 - 8:1 range and you'll be OK. If I forgot to mention it, do not concern yourself with high compression ratios. You really won't be able to feel that much difference in power. Just build a good combo, the motor will be happy and you'll be happy.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I meant to say use the 1:4's & FK8 on the big motor down the road Laughing The latest Combo will work for u,just use good fuel !! 'its' a play motor!! You can always lower the CR if you must.Back in the day of My 1/2 1600 Score rules buggy racing we had 10:1 with these Cams and single carbs Ran the $hit out of them for hours on end and never a problem with them Cool Cool Cool
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarthWeber wrote:
Brian_e wrote:
Last question.

What are the down sides to bumping the compression little more?? I was originally thinking 8.0-8.5. I know it will run a little warmer, and require better gas, but what else. Will the smaller cams work with the higher compression?? I thought compression=HP and fun. Would it be a bad thing to run a little higher comp. in trade for a little less life?? Remember this is my learning/play motor.

Thanks everyone for helping out a learning newbie.

Brian


Do not concern yourself with high compression. The stock cam and the smaller cams like E-100 and 110 were made to work with lower compression. Do not concern yourself with higher compression. Your Kadrons were made to work best on low compression, basically stock, motors. Stock cam = stock compression, about 7.5:1. Engle 100 or 110 you can bump to 8:1. There is a thing called Dynamic CR. It's calculated based on when the intake valve closes and cylinder pressure begins to build. In other words, it's the actual CR the motor sees. With smaller cams, when you raise the static CR the dynamic CR increases dramatically beyond what premium pump gas is able to handle. This will make the motor run hotter and wear out faster. Keep the compression in the 7.5 - 8:1 range and you'll be OK. If I forgot to mention it, do not concern yourself with high compression ratios. You really won't be able to feel that much difference in power. Just build a good combo, the motor will be happy and you'll be happy.


To answer specifically "what are the down sides to bumping the compression a little more?"- remember, you are using 87 mm pistons and cylinders for this motor. They fit in the same case and head hole as a stock 85.5, so the cylinder walls are thinner (about 0.030"?)to accomodate the bigger bore. Being thinner, they aren't able to absorb as much heat as a stock 85.5 and if overheated on a regular basis they will distort sooner. At first the rings won't seal as well, and if run more the pistons will seize in the cylinders as they get more out of round. The guides will fall out of the heads (they will probably be non rebuildable at this point) and the case may be stressed to the point that it's not usable. Because of this they've got a bad rep and a lot of people won't consider them, but if they're never overheated they will work just fine.

How soon, you ask? I've seen a motor with 94's (much thicker cylinder walls) with way too much compression (the guy said "just put these heads on it. It'll be fine) go 50 miles. It wouldn't start after seizing the third time. Another local guy built a hot stroker motor for his street car with a Gene Berg crank, 90.5's, Berg ported big valve heads, dual Webers and all the good stuff; but he insisted on running 9.8:1 for compression. It lasted 7500 miles. His nice stroker crank was cracked, the case no longer had oil pressure when hot and his expensive heads (this was in the late 70's and all ported big valve heads started off as stock castings) were junk. He said it would only ping "once in a while". I don't know exactly how much he spent on it (4000? 5000 dollars?) but I can tell you he wasn't a happy camper when it crapped.

The difference in power going from 8 to 8.5:1 isn't all that much (3,4?hp tops- you won't even feel it). Even at 8:1 with the W100 I would make sure the combustion chambers were polished and no spark plug threads were sticking into the chambers.

I guess what I'm saying is instead of wasting money finding out what doesn't work(trust me; it's never a happy time when a motor goes down the crapper. and don't ask how I know!) set yourself up for success and have fun with it.
Just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh). Al

PS- Madmike, you forgot to mention what race gas went into that 1/2 1600?
And read again what Darth said.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I am gonna order the cam today.

100 or 110???

Cheap bolt-on 1.25's or not?? I already have cut to length rods, and two of the stock rods have broken tips.

Compression will be 8.0, stock valve ported heads.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did say good fuel Confused Confused Confused Laughing Laughing Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say go with the W-100 and stock rockers since your crank wont let you rev past 4500RPM anyways
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