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exhaust leak turning expensive
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RadioRental
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:26 pm    Post subject: exhaust leak turning expensive Reply with quote

87 2.1 118K no rust underneath, exhaust is moderate condition

So, I failed inspection on a number of things, most notably an exhaust leak. I could feel the exhaust coming out at no.1 cylinder and figured I just needed a new gasket. I've sorted everything else myself but after a week of heating and swearing and pb blaster I decided to bring her in to a shop before I really screwed up the head.

Now, this is a reputable place but I just spoke with them and they told me that they snapped the studs (to be expected - they were bad) and that they have to replace that section of pipe. Its not a gasket, the entire flange is toast. I didnt think it was so bad but if thats the situation, fair enough.

Is $600 parts and labour to drill & hexcoil the passenger side head along with replacement pipe reasonable? I know its a bitch of a job and not a quick one either. I guess I did not want to throw too much money at this engine as I try to save for a zetec and I've got a little sticker shock.

What do you guys think?
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Jonnyvw
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get the whole exhaust from Bus Depot for less than 450 and as far as the head studs if you have to tap them and put in bolts it shouldn't coast 600 to do it unless you just don't like working on Vanagon's!!

I did mine just a few weeks ago and I have not had any problems with it just have to have a vice and a drill bit and a tap and it all goes rather smoothly. If you do it with the motor still in the van you just have to take off the side shield and get the rear off the ground a bit but you should be able to do it with the motor in the van. Also a drill with a 90 degree head on it works wonders
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RadioRental
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jonnyvw wrote:
You can get the whole exhaust from Bus Depot for less than 450 and as far as the head studs if you have to tap them and put in bolts it shouldn't coast 600 to do it unless you just don't like working on Vanagon's!!

I did mine just a few weeks ago and I have not had any problems with it just have to have a vice and a drill bit and a tap and it all goes rather smoothly. If you do it with the motor still in the van you just have to take off the side shield and get the rear off the ground a bit but you should be able to do it with the motor in the van. Also a drill with a 90 degree head on it works wonders


Yeah, I hear ya. I thought this was a simple one that would be easier for a skilled mech to do quickly rather than me going at it half arsed and the wife wondering whether we would be able to go on a trip this weekend or not. Now its in the shop and I'm sort of stuck, it would be foolish to pull the van out and finish the job myself (and I wouldnt be able to do it by friday)

I'll just discuss the bill when I see it, break it down and see what he says.

thanks for the feedback


Last edited by RadioRental on Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:54 pm; edited 2 times in total
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RCB
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would it be better to discuss the bill prior to having the work done then trying to discuss the bill after the works been done?? Just a thought
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RadioRental
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RCB wrote:
Would it be better to discuss the bill prior to having the work done then trying to discuss the bill after the works been done?? Just a thought


Point taken. While $600 is not an insignificant amount I'm not going to lose sleep over it. The van wont get a sticker until this is resolved. I have a trip this weekend so I'm not in a position to cut my losses at this stage.

Also, I'd rather not haggle with a mechanic while they're doing the work. I'm not feeling the upsides of that approach.

I should point out I told him that as he's going to be working on cylinder 1's leak I'd like him to try and loosen the lower bolts on the other ceased cylinders (3 & 4) so there's an extra bit of labour in there although we agreed that if it wasnt looking good I'd just cut the tabs on the bash guards to service lifters & OP senders. So maybe an extra hour, tops.

Long story short. I asked for a ball park figure, he said it's $600. If indeed thats what it comes out to be I'll ask him to explain. If he doesnt budge I'll kindly point out that I will unfortunately not be returning. I'm sure he wont lose sleep. I'll punch in my feedback to http://www.roadhaus.com/ and move on.

Thank you all for your help and feedback, I appreciate it. I'll report back tomorrow after 2pm once I get the van back.
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a friend with a mig welder it is easy to weld the flange back on and drill and retap for a new stud for a quicky fix. Really for $600 you can buy a welder and do it yourself.
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RadioRental
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrodoka wrote:
If you have a friend with a mig welder it is easy to weld the flange back on and drill and retap for a new stud for a quicky fix. Really for $600 you can buy a welder and do it yourself.


Dammit guys, stop saying that (o; I cut more corners than a picture framing shop. I'm in the middle of sticking it to the MA regulators who insist I need a professional plumber to install a home heating oil tank for $1600 when I can buy one and install it myself for $300. Its one flared fitting for christ sake, why do I need to pull a permit and get the local fire chief out? anyway...

I would sorely love to do this myself, I just aint doing it by Friday. And I knew that as soon as I brought it to a shop they would insist on doing it 'right'. They dont want me coming back in a month when it falls off.

I should have known posting to the samba! I wanted to hear 'wow.. only $600.. who is this fantastic mechanic you've found who'll work for next to free'.. instead I'm reminded of how much money I 'saved' getting a $4.5K westy thinking I'd be riding off in to a trouble free sunset 3 weeks later )o;

cheers!
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ccisco
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:39 pm    Post subject: exhaust Reply with quote

Very Happy I'm not trying to make you feel better, but, actually 600 dollars for a shop to do anything is rather cheap. Here in my neck of the woods shops charge 60 to over 100 bucks per hour for labor charges, so, with parts, 600 is not that bad... Twisted Evil With that said, I would have done it myself...
Good luck
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Captain Pike
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I paid $600 each for both my Vanagons Very Happy
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there's likely a fair amount of differance in a $600 Pennsylvania vanagon vs what ever condition the OP bought in (hoping for trouble free travels)

It is a shocker when people admire our campers @ campgrounds & classic car shows then ask how much Question
I say from $1200 to $12,000 depending on your mechanical aptitude, luck and desire for shine/cleanliness
they usually Shocked
I say usualyl expect a few $k after purchase to fix years of overlooked maintenance and environmental effect..
if it's babied & garaged & maintained it's more $$ Arrow

Kaiser Soze wrote:
I paid $600 each for both my Vanagons Very Happy


Parts pricing for the Mechanic shop depends on where they buy their parts.. they don't likely use Busdepot, or Vancafe who are VW specific parts houses who try to keep the overhead down.. they likely use XXXXimport supplier and there are more hands in the middle then a pot luck cookie jar.
an example is a local import parts house to me.. they get $278 or $288 for each cylinder head exhaust pipe where as Busdepot has SS for less then that, and around $109ea for steel van connector pipes.
so shop costs/pricing certainly can/does vary..
it is YOUR job as a consumer to go into the transaction with as much knowledge as possible.. many shops WILL work with you, just don't be a dink. they see them all day all week and well you don't want a upset mechanic working on your car or your burger.. Crying or Very sad
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CasaDelSol
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple of weeks ago I had to get the snapped studs pulled out of my engine block. It cost $200 cash at a chain muffler store on a slow Saturday. They MIG welded a bolt to the end of each snapped stud to get them out. I had just changed everything on the exhaust except for the header pipes. I wish I had gotten the entire BusDepot package when I bought everything else.

Living and learning...
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westylife
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don’t worry about the $600.00 man, not a bad deal considering all the variables involved. It would be a bummer to try and do it yourself and miss out on a trip. I did this job a couple years ago when I had a cracked exhaust. After reading which exhaust I should buy, I went with the SS setup (much louder) and the job turned into a huge PITA!! I did not break any studs but the nuts were stuck to the studs and the whole stud came out. I had to replace all the studs and did I mention that I have never done this before??? On a couple of the studs I had to put the exhaust flange on the head and run the studs through the flange into the head. It took about 3 days to do the whole thing but I passed IM and it was a learning experience to say the least. I told myself that I will never do an exhaust job again and will pay whatever they want. Now I'm leaking from #1 and I have an insp due next month Shocked I took it to a custom muffler guy in town and he said I might have messed up the flange by over tightening the nuts, and to take it back off and have it checked to make sure it is flat. He said you barely put any torque on them because when the flange gets hot it will expand and seals its self. Makes sense to me. The only other thing I can think that I might have done wrong is not putting gasket sealer on the gaskets?

Like I said don't worry about it, you will forget all about the money when you are on your trip. Plus now you have a warranty!
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Last edited by westylife on Tue Aug 04, 2009 1:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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RadioRental
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks westylife, solid advice. Talking to the mechanic, it was a royal PITA to work on. Something that would have taken me more than a week's worth of evenings fighting off mosquitos and cursing broken taps.

That said... just got the van back, sounds good(o; They replaced the manifold and OP sender - parts came to $280 Shocked Shocked Shocked
I questioned the fact that the online shops sell them for $115. He said something about the manifold he used is 'as good as stainless'.

Are the vancafe/BD manifolds a 'cheap version'??? Sounds doubtful there's basic and superdooper versions of this crossover pipe.

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_564_729/exhaust_manifold_for_cylinders_1___3_2.1l.html

http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=025251171AD

If there's just one manufactured part I would definitely want to talk to the shop about that. Thats quite a markup.

That all said, I'm rolling now and even though it cost me - I'm very happy.

Thanks everyone for your advice & help

/Edit

I looked at gowesty. So maybe the ceramic coated version is $180 and BD/VanCafe sell a painted version. Still a hefty markup
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deprivation
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RadioRental wrote:
'as good as stainless'.

And what would that be?
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RadioRental
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

deprivation wrote:
RadioRental wrote:
'as good as stainless'.

And what would that be?


Who the hell knows. I did my research, lots of positive reviews of this garage on Roadhaus.

The work done is good but I'm less than pleased, he's a very nice and knowledgeable mechanic. Couple of bugs, a bay and 2 vanagons outside his shop... but...

When I first brought the van in with an obvious leak on the no.1 header I expected this to be a 'simple' task of pulling the studs, helicoil and gasket. Turns out the pipe is bad and he ordered parts without discussing. Not a biggie but when his parts are $284 and gowesty sells the ceramic coated manifold for $180 I would have appreciated something of a heads up.

I also specifically said I wanted them to do whatever it took to make the bash plates removable. If the rest of the studs werent moving.. I'd cut the tabs myself and re-bolt them together. He went ahead and fixed a leaking op sender. A call would have been nice because I have a new sender and gauge sitting at home.

So, very long story short. The exhaust was also leaking at the muffler and I failed inspection again. This isnt the end of the world but for a shop that prides themselves on attention to detail, this is laughable.

Yes, I'm bitching, you pay good money and expect the job done right & complete. He did things I didnt ask and didnt finish the job I did ask for. I'll write something up in roadhaus and here. Just needed to vent.

I have a trip to the cape this weekend and hope I dont get pulled for have an R sticker. Anyone got advice on how strict cops are in MA of travelling with restricted stickers?

cheers folks!
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I first got my van I took it too a shop I worked at (I worked in sales) for some service, particularly of one leaking exhaust gasket.
The final price to replace that ONE gasket........ $700!!!!!!

The mechanic broke off a stud. No big deal.......
Untill he broke off a drillbit trying to get to the stud......
Then the question of "well how do you drill out a titanium drill bit?" came up.

I demanded that at this point, they needed to take the head off, they never did. They somehow patched it back together and were able to reduce the bill somewhat...... but I had no choice but too pay it, as they were the people writing my pay checks each week. Making $6/hr.......before taxes........ it took me a very long time to start earning money again. Since then I've done all my own work with the help of others sometimes. We've since rebuilt that engine and put a Time-sert in the hole that was once fine.
I've even more recently gone to a zetec and couldn't be happier. All 3 of my exhaust nuts are accessible and the studs can easily be replaced as well : )

I provided the shop with the part. The $2.00 part cost an additional $700 to install.
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RadioRental
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Phishman, that puts it in to perspective. I guess I was looking at it from the perspective that if you pay peanuts you get monkeys and inversely I expect not to be walking away from a reputable shop with work I didnt want done and still a leaking exhaust.

I should stop complaining and count my blessings he didnt find the leak on the muffler! That's something I can easily work on and save a few $$$ PArts have been ordered from VC.

On the upside he's been working on vw since 1973 and said the van was in very impressive condition for the saltbelt. I think once I get all the niggles worked out I'll have a good rig for the small change I paid.

thanks all!!
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WindAndSea
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the entire exhaust with the Bus Depot exhaust 2 years ago, and I am very happy, also a new o2 sensor at the same time, the engine ran alot smoother after the replacement.

As far as MA cops and stickers I am good at answering that one. As I wear a badge in MA. If the sticker is rejected for exhaust (black R) and it is not too loud or blowing smoke, it will be good for 60 days. If it is for safety (red R) then the man can cite you for what the safety failure is (ie. brakes, tire tread, windshield, ect.) Plus I will tell you this: there are a lot of glory boys in my profession that will stop you for the rejection sticker (good stop by the way, but still chicken sh#t IMHO) to dig for something else on the driver, and I can imagine a Vanagon will get their attention real quick!

I would just pay a little more money and get it done right so the problems don't add up. You are under there pulling bolts anyways, might as well get it all done while you are down there.
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RadioRental
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WindAndSea wrote:
I replaced the entire exhaust with the Bus Depot exhaust 2 years ago, and I am very happy, also a new o2 sensor at the same time, the engine ran alot smoother after the replacement.

As far as MA cops and stickers I am good at answering that one. As I wear a badge in MA. If the sticker is rejected for exhaust (black R) and it is not too loud or blowing smoke, it will be good for 60 days. If it is for safety (red R) then the man can cite you for what the safety failure is (ie. brakes, tire tread, windshield, ect.) Plus I will tell you this: there are a lot of glory boys in my profession that will stop you for the rejection sticker (good stop by the way, but still chicken sh#t IMHO) to dig for something else on the driver, and I can imagine a Vanagon will get their attention real quick!

I would just pay a little more money and get it done right so the problems don't add up. You are under there pulling bolts anyways, might as well get it all done while you are down there.


Thanks mate!

Its a red R but the threadbare tire have been replaced. All the rest of the work has been done, expect for exhaust

Exhaust was worked on, front manifold replaced (professionally) and the shop missed two small leaks either side of the muffler. There's no smoke or noise. The part has been ordered from VC but I dont expect it to be here by Friday.

I still have a red sticker even though the safety aspects have been sorted. Will a 'glory boy' still slap me with a ticket even though the work is done and I'm just outstanding one part of the exhaust system.
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WindAndSea
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carry receiepts and have the inspection report handy, but still be ready to be stopped. =]
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