Author |
Message |
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Here is the German H model. It has more wear than the G model I have. I will know if new bearings helped when it is reassembled. The only differences I can see with the French model is that the processes making the German model were more brutal based on bluing colors. Also the adjusting screw lock nut has a red seal in it, the ball bearing cages are a little better made and the tolerances are slightly less on the German one as some of the parts show no wear but they are looser. There is no plastiic shield around the lower shaft protrusion. The steel shows signs of minor rust and pitting around the upper seal, perhaps the steel is a different alloy. Everything else looks the same. My guess is that the main difference between the G and H model steering is where they were made (the G being France and the H being Germany.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
two other differences between the French G and the German H.
French G .................................................................................................German H model
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
After cleaning the H model, replacing the ball bearings with new Grade 25 bearings, the top and bottom seals, and setting the adjustment per Bentley, the lash is now about normal, maybe a tad more. There was some wear on the peg gear so I will still look for another gear to replace this one and either sell the G model as the thread size is different on the G model, or find a nut.
It was an interesting project.
Last edited by SGKent on Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:39 pm; edited 2 times in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Does anyone have a junk/scrap 1973 model 211415049G steering box they can pull the nut and fold over washer from that holds the drop arm on? I am not getting any hits on the wanted ad for the nut that goes on the gearbox in this thread and can't use it without the nut.
The nut is smaller than the H version so a late nut won't work. The only year the G appears to be from is a 1973. The box will read made in France (by Gemmer). I believe it was the first year the ZF boxes were made and they were made under license by Gemmer in France. Later ZF moved the production to Germany under license to Gemmer but the nut size changed. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 3:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
want to revisit this. Has anyone purchased a late TRW steering gear in the last year and if so what is your experience like? How does it perform and wear? _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KlassicBus79 Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2010 Posts: 121 Location: Nova Scotia
|
Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hey SGKent.
I put one of these steering boxes that I bought from German Supply in my bus. Not sure if I can give you any useful advice on wear etc. I filled it with Royal Purple 85W-140 gear oil and installed it with no issues at all.
As for wear I only have about 3000 km on it since I replaced it, but it seems alright and still way better than the 6 inches of play I had in the old leaky one.
As for steering improvement I replaced a lot of stuff at the same time. Coupler, ball joints, steering damper, calipers and brakes, wheels and tires, and pivot pin. As well I think the beam got greased for the first time in 10 years.
I guess all I can tell you is that it goes where I want it to go. A big improvement over what I had before. I decided to do all this the day I got into a speed wobble while driving alongside a city bus. _________________ 79 Cal Transporter 2L |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
|
Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
anyone got a link for that steering box? i need a new one soon too... _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Diet Pepsi King wrote: |
Hey SGKent.
I put one of these steering boxes that I bought from German Supply in my bus. Not sure if I can give you any useful advice on wear etc. I filled it with Royal Purple 85W-140 gear oil and installed it with no issues at all.
As for wear I only have about 3000 km on it since I replaced it, but it seems alright and still way better than the 6 inches of play I had in the old leaky one.
As for steering improvement I replaced a lot of stuff at the same time. Coupler, ball joints, steering damper, calipers and brakes, wheels and tires, and pivot pin. As well I think the beam got greased for the first time in 10 years.
I guess all I can tell you is that it goes where I want it to go. A big improvement over what I had before. I decided to do all this the day I got into a speed wobble while driving alongside a city bus. |
how much play now? _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Chris_914 Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2011 Posts: 344 Location: Las Vegas
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
|
Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ill pass on the CIP1 link...but that amazon link is saved for when i have money _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KlassicBus79 Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2010 Posts: 121 Location: Nova Scotia
|
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
SGKent I have about a 1/2 inch of play either side of the center of the steering wheel right now. With the old box I had between 3 and 4 each side. For me an awesome improvement. _________________ 79 Cal Transporter 2L |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cdennisg Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004 Posts: 20278 Location: Sandpoint, ID
|
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 6:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
SG Kent, any chance you still have all of those missing photos somewhere? This thread would be much better if the photos were still available to us. _________________ nothing |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
the server is turned off as to those photos. It costs me about $100 a year to keep it on plus fix the things hackers get into. I've tried to change the photos to download here but the threads are locked due to age. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 9:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks Bob - This really is the Holy Grail for Bays. Don't know how you do it but we need to send you to Washington to teach them how to procure things.
This one was made in 1982 West Germany by ZF so it post dates the last German Bay ever made made. They don't fit Vanagons as they are rack and pinion. No question that it is NOS. Bet these are the last two in the world or close to it.
Cant't thank you enough for sharing.
I'll take reading on the torque to spin and thru center for a NOS unit, then post here as soon as I can.
SK
_________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Hoody Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2007 Posts: 1948
|
Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You are more than welcome my friend! I have found 3 of these in 7 years. Few people are concerned with such attention to detail. That is why you own it. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ivwshane Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011 Posts: 1920 Location: Sacramento ca
|
Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Nothing to add but it's good to see you are still posting steve! I was starting to get worried! _________________ 77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ivwshane wrote: |
Nothing to add but it's good to see you are still posting steve! I was starting to get worried! |
Hi IVWShane - I don't post much these days. Those who need help know how to reach me.
Below are photos from earlier in the thread that I could not add because of the time lock on changing threads. My server is off most of the time. I noticed someone asked for them.
This is a photo of a 1973 early box made by Gemmer in France. It has a smaller thread. The one on the right is a standard late 1973 ZF box. Same basic box licensed by Gemmer to ZF.
This is the French made one apart while it was being restored.
This is the late one being restored. It was a low mileage unit with minimal wear but the seals needed replacing so I went thru it also. It is currently on my bus and will be sold once I mount the NOS one that Hoody sent to me.
_________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 12:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
Someone asked me tonight, in a round about way how do you rebuild a late box. What about parts?
Let me be really clear on this. You need a good unworn box to begin with, preferably something off a low mileage bus that has been sitting on a shelf for 20 years and needs new seals because they have hardened. When I was looking for a good box for this restoration, I threw away quite a few boxes because they were too worn when they were opened up - mostly due to being run bone dry.
Once you find that low mileage box and you want to rebuild it, bearings and seals are available. Even a middle mileage box can often be rebuilt if it has not been run dry. If you see hollowing out on the gears or roller they are too far gone to be a good core to rebuild. Look for another. If you aren't up to it remember that a steering component failure can cause accidents and even death so don't take on a task you aren't qualified for. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Amskeptic Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2002 Posts: 8568 Location: All Across The Country
|
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 9:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
SGKent wrote: |
If you aren't up to it remember that a steering component failure can cause accidents and even death so don't take on a task you aren't qualified for. |
I rebuilt a junkyard pre-'73 worm and peg steering box last fall in a field in Valdosta GA.
Filed and smoothed the dents in the worm gear.
Got around to installing it this summer outside of Kingman AZ.
The good news is that it is beautifully smooth with much less effort than the "rebuilt" (read: spray painted with new seals) unit that was already in the car. The bad news is the pitman arm shaft is a bit sloppy in the bore.
The big issue with many bus boxes seems to be the knuckleheads who over-adjust the pitman arm shaft trying to get rid of play *that comes from elsewhere*. This grinds a "divot" into the worm gear.
That adjustment screw is *only* to set the contact mesh between the worm gear and the pitman arm peg/roller at the exact center! Within 45* in either direction away from center, play starts opening up as designed. With many alignments and drag link replacements and steering wheel removals, the exact center of the box gets further away from the vehicle's tracking center. If you drive a bus with the steering box off-center, every little bump becomes an impact event against the worm and peg/roller, and wear is accelerated throughout the box.
Please note that if you see the pitman arm shaft clunking up and down, it is a bushing problem that cannot be adjusted out. I am going to attempt a pitman arm sleeve solution with that grey "rebuilt" box I pulled out.
I have to admit that the only true adjustment of any VW box is to follow the factory directions. The preload value is not discernible with the box connected up to the steering.
Never never never pound the drag link off the pitman arm. Use only a puller.
The most critical "adjustment" of all, is to have the steering box at deadnuts true center when the car is tracking straight down the road. This requires an accurate setting of the drag link length. If you have two adjustable tie rods, you can hit true center every time. If you have the factory supplied single adjustable tie rod, then you might find the drag link adjustment is not capable of giving the perfect on-center. In this case, let the center of the steering box be slightly towards left on American roads, and slightly towards right on Australian and British roads.
Many of the older buses have had the steering wheel repositioned as a quicky "solution". Nyet. Make it your project to remove the steering wheel and the drag link and get the box at true center, then adjust the drag link to the correct length, then position the steering wheel to be at center with the box.
I accidentally blamed the grey spray-painted rebuilt box for a terrible "skip" in the steering. I thought the peg was jumping a worm gear or some stupid imagining like that. It was only a loose steering coupler flange pinch bolt.
Colin _________________ www.itinerant-air-cooled.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 9:24 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Amskeptic wrote: |
SGKent wrote: |
If you aren't up to it remember that a steering component failure can cause accidents and even death so don't take on a task you aren't qualified for. |
I rebuilt a junkyard pre-'73 worm and peg steering box last fall in a field in Valdosta GA.
Filed and smoothed the dents in the worm gear.
Got around to installing it this summer outside of Kingman AZ.
The good news is that it is beautifully smooth with much less effort than the "rebuilt" (read: spray painted with new seals) unit that was already in the car. The bad news is the pitman arm shaft is a bit sloppy in the bore.
The big issue with many bus boxes seems to be the knuckleheads who over-adjust the pitman arm shaft trying to get rid of play *that comes from elsewhere*. This grinds a "divot" into the worm gear.
That adjustment screw is *only* to set the contact mesh between the worm gear and the pitman arm peg/roller at the exact center! Within 45* in either direction away from center, play starts opening up as designed. With many alignments and drag link replacements and steering wheel removals, the exact center of the box gets further away from the vehicle's tracking center. If you drive a bus with the steering box off-center, every little bump becomes an impact event against the worm and peg/roller, and wear is accelerated throughout the box.
Please note that if you see the pitman arm shaft clunking up and down, it is a bushing problem that cannot be adjusted out. I am going to attempt a pitman arm sleeve solution with that grey "rebuilt" box I pulled out.
I have to admit that the only true adjustment of any VW box is to follow the factory directions. The preload value is not discernible with the box connected up to the steering.
Never never never pound the drag link off the pitman arm. Use only a puller.
The most critical "adjustment" of all, is to have the steering box at deadnuts true center when the car is tracking straight down the road. This requires an accurate setting of the drag link length. If you have two adjustable tie rods, you can hit true center every time. If you have the factory supplied single adjustable tie rod, then you might find the drag link adjustment is not capable of giving the perfect on-center. In this case, let the center of the steering box be slightly towards left on American roads, and slightly towards right on Australian and British roads.
Many of the older buses have had the steering wheel repositioned as a quicky "solution". Nyet. Make it your project to remove the steering wheel and the drag link and get the box at true center, then adjust the drag link to the correct length, then position the steering wheel to be at center with the box.
I accidentally blamed the grey spray-painted rebuilt box for a terrible "skip" in the steering. I thought the peg was jumping a worm gear or some stupid imagining like that. It was only a loose steering coupler flange pinch bolt.
Colin |
Nice job Colin.
Hang onto any good pegs you find. I tried for about a two weeks every way I could to help someone find a new peg for a 71 box and had no such luck. From the photos it looks like they flat spot and once that happens they no longer roll properly.
I think it was Skills who just bought a rebuilt box and all he got as I recall was a paint job.
Here is a quote from his thread on the "rebuilt" early box he bought. Scary.
skills@eurocarsplus wrote: |
as promised
you can see the lower cover to the right, but a plain old washer was what the "rebuilt" steering box used to take up the slop
more rebuilt goodness
you can see the arm was all galled up. this end has no bushing. the housing was just as bad
i will admit, i washed off all the paint, popped it open saw what a joke it was and it did sit under a bench for a while. some of the rust on the guts was there, and some is the result of hiding under a bench
i would like to also point out that the bearings on the worm were each missing 1 ball. awesome! |
_________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|