BluMaxx blowers

[notchboy]

Doug - Unless you completely go through all the connections on the heating path and ensure leaks are gone - I wouldn't try to get creative yet.

I need to pull the motor in my 77 to fix the sloppy HE fitment of the metal case around the heating fins(not really - as Ill be cleaning the whole motor as well) If the HE dont have a excellent seal then why bother with the rest. They also have some oil residue in them from leaky valve covers. Since Ive owned the bus its never had any real heat because the system is in dire need of a go through. My fan works great and I look forward to seeing how the system works when its properly tuned.

I only mention all this because if its lacking then I would definitely put a pull fan under my feet to try and compensate - but if if it works well I wont do it.
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[DougB]

I know the HE seals are good...they're totally new. The HEs have been redone and ceramic coated, the flap boxes are new, cables new, good HE connections. The heat when on the highway is good...I was just hoping for a bit more oomph at the defroster vents. Perhaps for the time being I'll try to fix the stock fan one last time.
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'75 Campmobile (tin-top to SpaceRoof)
'73 Fastback
'52 BMW R67/2
'41 Zundapp KS600
'55 Puch SGS250
A very, very understanding wife

[Tcash]

[quote="DougB"]So, a few days ago yet another of the used, stock rear blower fans I've bought (now 2) died, and I'm thinking I'd rather do something else than try to find yet another used fan.

Has anyone found a fan motor with the same 3- or 6-screw mounting that is the same dimensions?

NOS German heater blower motor

[DougB]

It's been "Out of Stock" for months or longer :-/
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'75 Campmobile (tin-top to SpaceRoof)
'73 Fastback
'52 BMW R67/2
'41 Zundapp KS600
'55 Puch SGS250
A very, very understanding wife

[pittwagen]

Well after 4 years my system still performs well - second all metal stock blower under the front floor and a 3 speed Rabbit blower switch and resistor pack. I have done nothing to it other than to adjust the heater cables. It works well in stop and go driving at or near freezing and the windows never fog up. Never use the high speed - mostly #1.

One day I will add an auxiliary heater under the back seat for overnight comfort - likely an Espar D2. Already have a 6 liter tank and have fabbed the tank mounts for the engine compartment.

[Wildthings]

[quote="Tcash"]

[Wildthings]

[notchboy]

Sounds like its all sealed up then. I would go for a puller then for under your feet on a seperat circut from the rear one.

Keep in mind two that the rear is switched on when you push the lever all the way down. Dont let it run all the time. Just when you are stopped at idle. And or run in conjunction with the newer one under foot.

I look forward to see how you "improve" it
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[pittwagen]

We got 2+ inches of rain in the last day or so and my bus sat out in it all and hadn't been driven for a few days. Took it for a drive this aft and sure enough the windshield started to fog up with the heat on and rear ( stock) fan going. Turned on the under front floor puller fan on the low speed (low amp draw) and the fog was gone within a minute or so. You have to get one for your 74. You won't be disappointed. Theory or not it works. Too bad you weren't a little closer and I could show you. Just the ticket for low speed around town driving.

[DougB]

My 12V Dayton fan arrived a few days ago and looks to be a good size for inside-the-belly-pan mounting...when I get around to installing it I'll take lots of photos.

BUT, the think I'm trying to work out now is how to control it. I have ambulance fans and want to utilize the same fan switch and relay to control the Dayton heat blower fan...because I'm only going to be using the ambulance fans in the summer, the heater blower in the winter. Essentially I want to have a switch, perhaps mounted to the driver's kick panel, that switches the power from the ambulance fans to the heater blower after the relay. Something performing the same function as a double-knife switch. My dash is already a bit full so I'm trying to avoid adding another separate switch in the same row as the headlight and ambulance fan switches.
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'75 Campmobile (tin-top to SpaceRoof)
'73 Fastback
'52 BMW R67/2
'41 Zundapp KS600
'55 Puch SGS250
A very, very understanding wife

[pittwagen]

Are you sure the ambulance fan switch will handle the amperage of your new fan? Might want to check first or consider a relay. In using a 3 speed switch for my conversion, I find I never use the full speed of the fan. Slow speed provides most of the boost I require at low speeds and to avoid the windows fogging up during the first few minutes of driving - my bus sits outside all the time. Amperage draw is about 2 amps instead of up to 10 with the fan at full speed. I mounted the 3 speed switch in a plate under the dash below the headlight switch. The resistor pack is beside the fan under the floor in the cool air but protected by the splash pan.

[DougB]

I'm not sure but I may have installed the ambulance fans with a relay already. That's a good call, though, just to be on the safe side.

Your comment about resistor packs makes me think, though, that I haven't fully thought this out. I remember seeing the resistors on the ambulance fans and pretty much forgot they'd be needed for the heater blower. My circuits/wiring knowledge starts to break down when resistors and diodes come into play...guess I'll have to sit down with my Dad to plot something out.

Thanks for the reality check!

- Doug
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'75 Campmobile (tin-top to SpaceRoof)
'73 Fastback
'52 BMW R67/2
'41 Zundapp KS600
'55 Puch SGS250
A very, very understanding wife

[DougB]

So it turns out that the max amps the Dayton blower fan (2C646) requires is 5.1A. Does anyone know what the max amps required by the VW ambulance fans? If around 5.1A or more then perhaps I'd be able to route everything through the stock VW switch even without the relay.

Thanks in advance,
- Doug
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'75 Campmobile (tin-top to SpaceRoof)
'73 Fastback
'52 BMW R67/2
'41 Zundapp KS600
'55 Puch SGS250
A very, very understanding wife

[aerosurfer]

Bump on an old thread...

Wildthings,

I have read thru this plenty of times, but the one picture and description that eludes us all is of the "y" pipe and how you ran separate hoses from the HEX. Did you cut out the Y altogether or wedge in a hose from the heat valves next to it to run under your backseat? Same with the particulars of the plumbing on the left side until it reaches the center tube. Did you run the aircraft grade hose and have it flatten out between the axle and the bus?

My Y has some rust through spots that have been treated and covered with aluminum tape, and I would prefer to leave what's there as its not really a replaceable part, but I'm very interested in direct heat to the rear seats. I have a 77 Deluxe so the vent is already there. It's just gets very tight in that area around the axle. I have started the up at it and have a had time picturing the added ducts
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness

77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!

72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone)

[Wildthings]

I am still running air from my left heater box through the "Y", and have just closed off the right inlet of the "Y". I made a piece with a slight "S" bend which connects to the right accordian tube and then goes through a hole in the metal of the bus under the right side of the seat. It has a flange so it can be bolted to the floor.

This is where the air enters the cabin

[Chubber]

I've been following this discussion with interest.

One thing I'm wondering is what the shaft diameter is for those plastic bladed bilge blowers. There are metal replacement fans that might hold up better if they fit the shaft size or could use a small bushing to do so.

Grainger sells replacement metal blades in 3", 3.5" and 4" that look like they would work if you had the right size shaft.

Two of the 4" ones.
http://www.grainger.com/product/AIR-DRIVE-Blade-2C953
http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Propeller-2PYR1

And a 3" one (which for some reason has a bigger shaft hole than the 4" one...)
http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Propeller-5JLK2

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Chubber
'71 Deluxe 7 Passenger Bus (Resto thread)
'72 Fastback
'74 Super Beetle Convertible (Sold)

[DougB]

I thought some of the worry with the inline fans was that the motor (as well as the plastic fan blades) was exposed to the hot air (if sucking, not blowing)...

- Doug
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'75 Campmobile (tin-top to SpaceRoof)
'73 Fastback
'52 BMW R67/2
'41 Zundapp KS600
'55 Puch SGS250
A very, very understanding wife

[Busstom]

[Wildthings]

[cmonSTART]

I did some work recently on my heat system and was sad that I couldn't find a blumaxx blower anywhere. Did they stop making them? I found a lot of cheaper blowers like that, but nothing decent.

I ended up scoring a Beetle squirrel cage booster which worked for what I needed.

I like the idea of splitting the heat exchangers. When I install a set I might do just that!
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'78 Bus 2.0FI
de K1IGS