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Spin on Oil Filter
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imtb
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 8:47 am    Post subject: Spin on Oil Filter Reply with quote

I am having an 1835 engine built with full flow case, I want to use spin on oil filter will this work with A1 exhaust ? the sidewinder? I want to use the one with having to run extra lines but I think I am going to have too.

Couldnt find much on it.

thanks
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your case is going to be full flow, just plumb a filter wherever you have room for it. Are you talking about using a filter/pump combo?
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imtb
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really want to use the filter pump combo. and not have extra hoses to run. Hopefully have the exhaust here to check in a few days.
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple of years ago, I was using a '71 Super Beetle as my daily driver.
The car had a full flow oil filter that was mounted directly on the engine.
There were no long hoses, etc. I used a Canton Mecca cartridge type filter which filters down to 8 microns; it was very easy and clean to service, and I was very happy with it. Here are some photos:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Oil flows from the pump through a Moroso check (anti drain) valve into the filter. The filter is mounted to the "pulley tin" with a bulkhead fitting.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Oil returns to the engine through a hole in the "pulley tin" opposite the main oil gallery via the fittings you see next to the pulley.
Removing the 4 bolts at the top of the filter is all that is necessary to replace the element.

I have used a Canton Mecca filter in my Thing for over 20 years. It is mounted differently than on this Beetle, but this Beetle setup was great; the filter was solidly mounted, and never leaked.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Just another idea.
Good luck, Mondshine
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

imtb wrote:
I really want to use the filter pump combo. and not have extra hoses to run. Hopefully have the exhaust here to check in a few days.


You're going to have a real issue running a filter pump if your case has been prepped for a full flow system. Make sure the pump outlet has not been plugged, and then plug the full-flow oil inlet. Most of them will not clear aftermarket exhausts as well.

I steer away from those filter pumps, I have torn down 3 blown engines that were all equipped with them and the root cause was either crap getting past the filter and plugging an oil port, or oil starvation due to cavitation/oil restriction in the pump assembly. I run my full flow system with the filter mounted on one of those exhaust stud mounted brackets. I have maybe 8 inches total of oil line.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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GK.Thing
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a pump filter combo. Not a fan of it because the filter is right in the path of the hot air that just came over the cylinders (3&4) I dont have a external oil cooler hooked up yet.

Without getting into all of the details that filter sitting in the hot air flow didn't help my engine running cooler.

hope this helps. i m no expert just saying what I found.
Good luck
Yes I will be running lines to filter and cooler
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imtb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the response. I think I will go with the extrally mounting filter and run the lines to it. I looked a few photos and probably mount it on the driver side with a bracket off the airfilter mount.
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

imtb-
Here's a photo of a Canton Mecca filter at the driver's side air filter mount.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There's lots of extra stuff in the photo, but the filter is the black cylinder with the silver top. The supply hose runs to a bulkhead fitting in the pulley tin. The return hose terminates in a 90* fitting attached to a straight JIC-8 X 3/8 NPT threaded into the case (through a hole in the pulley tin.
You can see that the filter and hoses are out of harm's way and it all stays nice and clean.

That filter housing in the photo is 20+ years old, and they don't look like that any more (although the actual filter element is the same); they now look like this:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

25-100B - CM 6" TALL REMOTE CANISTER OIL FILTER
http://www.hrpworld.com/store/default/canton-cm-6in-tall-remote-oil-filter-1-2in-npt-ports.html


I think the CM filter is the best you can get for an air cooled VW.
It is much higher quality than a spin on, does not bypass, it can never burst, and it filters better.

The street price for these things is about 110 bucks. Well worth it to me.

Anyway, that's my rant; good luck with your project.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GK.Thing wrote:
...... because the filter is right in the path of the hot air that just came over the cylinders (3&4)

What is the temp of the air coming off the cylinders?
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